THE Wheel & Tire Thread

[Wayne Presley]

Wayne, what size tires are on the 9.5?.


I'm running 265/35/18's

[Pearldrummer7]

I'm running 265/35/18's
Excellent. Food for thought. Probably sending you my arms to hack up :)


I understand. I did not say this before but the stock studs are prone to failing when highly stressed, as during track days+. They are not reliable. They snap off in an unpredictable fashion and they get chewed up. Sometimes, at the track, I am changing wheels three~four times a day. Constant re-torquing. Weight of longer studs in the center of the hub is insignificant. It does, incrementally increase un-sprung weight but it's still insignificant. Just do them...

I meant weight of 18x9.5's vs. 18 or 17x9's. The stronger studs make perfect sense.

3-4 times a day is a lot!!

[Scargo]

I thought you might have.
Not a lot of changing if you arrive with rain/street tires (in my case Michelin Pilot Super Sports) on your trailered car then change to dry tires and then to wet and then back to dry (repeat as necessary) and/or need to rotate them based on wear. You get used to it. I have a small trace of anti-seize on my studs and make a small torque allowance for it.
Since race tires don't tend to hold air that well I usually go back to the Michelins when I'm done...

[Pearldrummer7]

So, how does the FFR world like 235/40/R17's on the fronts? My 17x8 +35mm wheels would probably rather have 235 wide tires than 215, but the 235/40/17 is too tall, is it not(24.4")? I don't want to have to run a 215/40, but if it's my only option for a non-slick tire I will.

Tamra, you said you only rub slightly at full lock. Any photos of clearances?

[Silvertop]

The size tire you plan on running on the rear has a LOT to do with what size will work on the front. FFR and others who have completed cars and driven them at speed on race tracks have already determined that the car handles best with front tires that are at least 30 mm or so narrower than the rears. For example, since I'm using stock Subie wheels, and because my car will be an NA pure streeter, I'm planning on running 225's on the rear (widest tire that will fit the rim), and 205's on the front. I'm actually debating going down to 195's on the front to get a little more range between the fronts and the rears, to get a better grip balance. I'm not remotely suggesting you do that -- but the point is that if you want to run big tires on the front, you will want to run REALLY big tires on the back. Unless you are planning on doing that, my thought would be not to go bigger than the recommended 215's on the front. Unless maybe you like the idea of having the rear be a little "loose".......... I'm no expert, just sayin':)

[Pearldrummer7]

The size tire you plan on running on the rear has a LOT to do with what size will work on the front. FFR and others who have completed cars and driven them at speed on race tracks have already determined that the car handles best with front tires that are at least 30 mm or so narrower than the rears. For example, since I'm using stock Subie wheels, and because my car will be an NA pure streeter, I'm planning on running 225's on the rear (widest tire that will fit the rim), and 205's on the front. I'm actually debating going down to 195's on the front to get a little more range between the fronts and the rears, to get a better grip balance. I'm not remotely suggesting you do that -- but the point is that if you want to run big tires on the front, you will want to run REALLY big tires on the back. Unless you are planning on doing that, my thought would be not to go bigger than the recommended 215's on the front. Unless maybe you like the idea of having the rear be a little "loose".......... I'm no expert, just sayin':)

this agrees with the two FFR guys I talked to today about this. I guess 215 is what I'm going for! Cheaper, anyway :) My real concern is that it is too narrow for a 8" wheel, but seeing stance guys fit the tires they do.... I'll probably be okay.

Thanks, Silver!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The size tire you plan on running on the rear has a LOT to do with what size will work on the front. FFR and others who have completed cars and driven them at speed on race tracks have already determined that the car handles best with front tires that are at least 30 mm or so narrower than the rears. For example, since I'm using stock Subie wheels, and because my car will be an NA pure streeter, I'm planning on running 225's on the rear (widest tire that will fit the rim), and 205's on the front. I'm actually debating going down to 195's on the front to get a little more range between the fronts and the rears, to get a better grip balance. I'm not remotely suggesting you do that -- but the point is that if you want to run big tires on the front, you will want to run REALLY big tires on the back. Unless you are planning on doing that, my thought would be not to go bigger than the recommended 215's on the front. Unless maybe you like the idea of having the rear be a little "loose".......... I'm no expert, just sayin':)

Hey Silvertop.
I was running 205 front and 225 rear at my walesburo autocross test. The car was pretty loose.
I was in go kart mode.

http://youtu.be/sZ7PRMYRqRw

Bob

[Silvertop]

Well, that was entertaining!! And thanks for that input. It kinda confirms my concerns. For me, that means I will probably need to either go a little bigger at the rear (which means buying different $wheels$) or dropping down smaller on the front. Or be prepared to be a little "loose" :rolleyes:

[Tamra]

So, how does the FFR world like 235/40/R17's on the fronts? My 17x8 +35mm wheels would probably rather have 235 wide tires than 215, but the 235/40/17 is too tall, is it not(24.4")? I don't want to have to run a 215/40, but if it's my only option for a non-slick tire I will.

Tamra, you said you only rub slightly at full lock. Any photos of clearances?

Here's the front. I don't have a photo of them at full lock, but we have a bit of clearance turning toward the passenger side, and just hit at full lock turning toward the driver. These are 235/40/17 Direzza Z2's on 17x8's et 45 PFO1's. Note we have aluminum control arms and the caster mod with a 4mm spacer.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DSC_0101_zps98fee2e0.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DSC_0101_zps98fee2e0.jpg.html)

The rear, 255/40/17 on 17x8 et 45 PFO1's.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DSC_0098_2_zps2cda8397.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DSC_0098_2_zps2cda8397.jpg.html)

[Scargo]

This is an interesting discussion. I feel like a leper with my setup...
I would ask: What is full lock? Do you really need to worry about that as a high priority? I was told that 20+ degrees of turn was enough (for me). Rubbing can and should be addressed with stops (in the front) wheel spacers, rim diameters, rim offsets, widths and tire sizes. Options are almost unlimited.
Some issues can be addressed with juggling spacers in the suspension mounts and using the available space between the brackets to your advantage. This is without the consideration that you could (heaven forbid) move suspension mounting points. The body can be flexed, stretched and cut.
This doesn't even get into the looks issue. If you want stance or just big then I will bow out.

[Pearldrummer7]

This is an interesting discussion. I feel like a leper with my setup...
I would ask: What is full lock? Do you really need to worry about that as a high priority? I was told that 20+ degrees of turn was enough (for me). Rubbing can and should be addressed with stops (in the front) wheel spacers, rim diameters, rim offsets, widths and tire sizes. Options are almost unlimited.
Some issues can be addressed with juggling spacers in the suspension mounts and using the available space between the brackets to your advantage. This is without the consideration that you could (heaven forbid) move suspension mounting points. The body can be flexed, stretched and cut.
This doesn't even get into the looks issue. If you want stance or just big then I will bow out.

You're right. There are so many variables; it's very intimidating to me at least!

I think it's safe to say the vast majority of the people on here want performance over looks. I for one couldn't care less about looks, and can't stand the idea of "stance". I only mentioned it before because I'm concerned with not having bloated tires for once haha but many people do far more stretching than a 215 on an 8" wide wheel without issue, I think.

[Scargo]

For a tire like a Michelin Pilot Sport (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+A%2FS+3+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=145VR8PSAS3XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes)A/S 3 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+A%2FS+3+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=145VR8PSAS3XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes) 215x45x18, all-season performance tire 8 inches is not stretching it, though it is at the high end of the recommended width. It's important to stay within the recommended ranges.
If racing, sidewall flex is an important component of suspension performance and good handling. It's part of a tire's job to have some compliance and flex and make up for the imperfections in the suspension's geometry withing a reasonable range.
When you stretch a tire beyond it's designed range it doesn't do as good a job. Similarly, cramming it on a small rim does the same kind of negative things and affects the footprint.

[Pearldrummer7]

For a tire like a Michelin Pilot Sport (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+A%2FS+3+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=145VR8PSAS3XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes)A/S 3 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+A%2FS+3+%28H-+or+V-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=145VR8PSAS3XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes) 215x45x18, all-season performance tire 8 inches is not stretching it, though it is at the high end of the recommended width. It's important to stay within the recommended ranges.
If racing, sidewall flex is an important component of suspension performance and good handling. It's part of a tire's job to have some compliance and flex and make up for the imperfections in the suspension's geometry withing a reasonable range.
When you stretch a tire beyond it's designed range it doesn't do as good a job. Similarly, cramming it on a small rim does the same kind of negative things and affects the footprint.

Yup, which is where my concern comes in. I've only had 235+mm tires on my 8" wheels, but I think the Direzza ZII (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+ZII) runs fairly wide, and I hope this will work. If not, I'll be rethinking front wheels, of course.

[wleehendrick]

If you look at the detailed specs, available at TireRack for ones they sell, and usually at the manufacturer's website, it will detail the nominal rim width and acceptable range for each model's size.

[iblackwe]

I have a question regarding wheel fitment. I have used the google spreadsheet at the beginning of this thread and found that for the front I have -24mm protrusion and in the rear its -65mm Protrusion, is this correct? The donor car I bought came with "street gear" aftermarket tires and rims which are 205/40/17 with a 7" width. If this is correct I am assuming I need to buy wheel spacers, any suggestions on where to get a good deal on these, It would be roughly 1" in the front and 2.5" in the back. Also, if I were to replace the wheel studs with ARP which length of stud should I be looking for?

Thanks!

[Scargo]

I've been accused of over-thinking. You might be doing that or trying to save money foolishly. I believe (especially if you pay someone to do some of the work required) that you could buy new rims for what studs and spacers would cost. There's some decent new $125 wheels out there and lots in the 150-200 range. Or, look for used ones. I would not discourage you from installing studs if you're going to do any track time, otherwise I would save my money in that area.

[C.Plavan]

I posted this originally in the wrong thread-

FYI- Data Point on the new Hoosier R7's

225/40 R17 in front are the same width as the 235/40 R17 Toyo RR's. Just a tad shorter in height
245/40 R17 in rear are a tad wider as the Toyo RR 255/40. A tad shorter also.

[Scargo]

Related: Santiago said, "According [sic] the early R&T article, FFR's blue 818R mule had a front track of 59.5" and 59.0" rear track."
Is it relevant that the front track was wider than the rear? Was it just happenstance and they ran with what they had?
Why wouldn't you want a wider stance in the rear? Isn't it more common than not with mid-engined cars?

[Hobby Racer]

I posted this originally in the wrong thread-

FYI- Data Point on the new Hoosier R7's

225/40 R17 in front are the same width as the 235/40 R17 Toyo RR's. Just a tad shorter in height
245/40 R17 in rear are a tad wider as the Toyo RR 255/40. A tad shorter also.

Chad, given that the R7's are the same width up front, do you think you will have the same rubbing issues, or will the shorter height be just enough to let them clear in the long sweepers?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, given that the R7's are the same width up front, do you think you will have the same rubbing issues, or will the shorter height be just enough to let them clear in the long sweepers?

It's still going to rub, but not when racing. It will rub just trying to maneuver tight turns (paddock). I got 1 full steering wheel turn with the Toyo's, and about 1 1/4 with the Hoosiers until it hits the frame. I raised the front up 1.5 turns on the coilovers to increase the ride height a bit. The Toyos were rubbing the upper fender inside the lip, so I think I fixed that also.

Even with the Toyo's on the track, there was never an issue with the tires rubbing on the frame while on the race track. (Hairpins etc) The Toyo's are fine for racing. I'm just use to and prefer the Hoosiers. They offer a better contingency and tires sizes for me. I'll know more in two weeks after my first race. I'm going to be practicing all day Friday, so I hope everything holds together.

[Scargo]

Hoosier A7/R7 225x40x17=23.8 OD and 9.6 section width.
245x40x17= 24.3 and 10.3
Chad, what are your track widths?

[R.Spec]

Thinking about running rso5rr wheels 18x9.5" inset 43 in the rear and 18x8.5" inset 42 in the front. Will I run into issue with the 8.5" in the. I have huge brakes that I need to clear. But I am worried about lock to lock and the tire hitting the firewall.

http://enkei.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/rs05rr.pdf

[Scargo]

R.Spec: Dude! You don't even mention tires. Have you read any of this thread? Lock to lock in the front is manageable. That has been discussed too.
The Stoptechs won't work with hardly any, if any, 17" wheels, so that is a significant issue right there. You need to be below 24"diameter in the front, I believe to keep from rubbing the frame/front bulkhead. I don't know what kind of 18 inch tire would work...
That's just a start.

[Hindsight]

I really wanted those RS05RR wheels but just don't feel going with an 18 in front is going to be very doable. I'm pretty sure it's been done before but but the front is going to be ultra low profile and it might be tough or impossible to find a top-tier tire that fits and also has a matching version for the size you need in the rear. I put extremely good tires at the top of my list. Wheel selection is then limited to the available sizes of tire I like. Maybe someone will prove me wrong? I still haven't bought wheels or tires yet.......

[metros]

Just got my Mach V Motorsports 'Awesome' and 'wicked awesome' wheels. The 'awesome' wheels are 17x9, +42 offset and 17.8 lbs. The 'wicked awesome' wheels are 18x9.5, +42, and 19 lbs. Obviously I'll be using the wider wheels in the rear. I'll be using Yoko AD08R tires 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.

I was testing a 10mm spacer in the front. At full lock, the driver side cleared by the width of a credit card, while using a 10mm spacer. At full lock, the passenger side cleared by 1/8". Neither side has any additional caster mods right now.

The rear wheels will require a 15mm spacer. I tested them with a 10mm and they were just barely touching the shock.

Pictures!
Here's what they look like in the sun after all that love.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_115137_zpsw1pg9inc.jpg

Room light:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_115047_zpsjzbcgn97.jpg

Installed!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130909_zpsmbjpeik6.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130948_zpswffon0p2.jpg

Rear wheels look meaty
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_131101_zpsczpy6svs.jpg

Front wheels installed:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130743_zpsoioroace.jpg

[Tamra]

So want to ask everyone for a fitment opinion. We are wanting to go DOWN in wheel diameter, for autocross. 15" fronts, 16" rears. The reasoning behind this is an easy drop in height without affecting bump steer or other suspension geometry. Our current "daily driver" tires are 24.4" diameter in the front, the new ones would be 22.7" diameter. We are sitting at a 4" ride height right now, so the tire reduction would give us a nearly 1" drop in the front. The rear would be about a 3/4" drop, so we would have a little rake as well.

We will be running Hoosier A6/A7's in 245/40 square to start (mostly because we got the rears on closeout for $90/each!! Thank you Hoosier). Later the rears will likely go to a wider tire size. The tires are decided, we just need the wheels now.

Wheel options we are looking at:

15x8.25, et 25 (front)
16x9, et 28 (rear)

The fronts, we are mostly concerned about not hitting the suspension. We will flare the the fenders if necessary. Do you think the 15x8.25 et 25 would meet this requirement?

The rears, we do not want to flare the fenders - we want to stay inside the wheel wells - and do not want to hit the suspension. Do you think 16x9, et 28 would fit?

We know we will likely have to change the front brakes in order to fit the 15" wheels, and we are fine with that.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Do you think 16x9, et 28 would fit?

My 16x6.5 et55 OEM wheel just clear the rear suspension by 1/4".
You are 2.5" (63.5mm) wider / 2 = 1.25" (31.75mm)
offset 55mm-28 mm = 27mm

So 31.75mm - 27mm = 4.75mm closer than me.

I think you will clear by a credit card, but will rub trailing arms during acceleration because of suspension twist.
Bob

[Tamra]

Thanks Bob, that is very helpful.

[Tamra]

Based on your recommendation, we went with 16x9, et 20 in the rear. Hopefully it won't poke out of the fenders. Also went 15x8, et 20 on the front.

Looking at our suspension, we would be mostly concerned about the upper link, not the lower link. However, we can modify the spacers and shift it inward if necessary. We'll let you know in a week or two.

[Tamra]

Unfortunately we were not able to get those sizes... tried twice through two manufacturers and they were all out of stock/discontinued sizes, despite still being listed. The next step up would have been fully custom and cost an arm and a leg (Volk/SSR level), so we opted to find something more readily available and less harsh on the pocketbook, since these are just going to be autox wheels.

Ended up with 15x8 et 25 and 16x8 et 25. Will report back in a week or two when everything is here.

[Tamra]

We got our 818 got R-Comps on our new race wheels today.

We searched for awhile to find race wheels. We wanted 15x8, 5x100 in the front, which is not easy to find unless you go to a fully custom 3 piece ($$$) wheel.

We wanted the 1" drop in wheel size, plus a lower diameter tire, in order to get about a 1" drop in ride height for racing. We are at 4" with the street wheels/tires (17x8 et 45 Enkei PF01 with Direzza Z2's in 235/40/17 and 255/40/17), and about 3" with the race wheels/tires (some rake as the front is lower).

We found some Axe Wheels, 15x8, 5x100, et 25, and ordered a set of 4. Despite being relatively cheap wheels ($600 for the set of 4), they feel like they are of pretty good quality. They're not the lightest or the heaviest at 16lbs each.

We did not think the 15" wheels would fit over the WRX brakes, but we lucked out! Perfect fit. Now to order some EBC Yellow brake pads, since we've confirmed we do not have to order new brackets/rotors.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2CE7DCA4-B584-4449-A24E-1B86C9333DB0_zpsclvtmmxn.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2CE7DCA4-B584-4449-A24E-1B86C9333DB0_zpsclvtmmxn.jpg.html)

Clear on the suspension as well:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/94D40583-8C34-497A-9679-FB130911659B_zpsdy9wle5n.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/94D40583-8C34-497A-9679-FB130911659B_zpsdy9wle5n.jpg.html)

We have two sets of tires for the front wheels - Hoosier A7's in 245/40/15 ($$$ and therefore saving for big clubs), and Hankook Ventus C71's in 225/45/15 (used, cheap, and will be used on our rough, local, small lot). Pictured are the C71's, with plenty of clearance at full lock.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/128560FC-DCC5-4974-A971-92F6635BBDD1_zpsuasel0uc.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/128560FC-DCC5-4974-A971-92F6635BBDD1_zpsuasel0uc.jpg.html)

The Axe Ex-8 wheels next to our Enkei PFO1's.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DFEED46A-8529-4FDA-B238-324AD8424792_zpspbm1kqlk.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DFEED46A-8529-4FDA-B238-324AD8424792_zpspbm1kqlk.jpg.html)

The rears are Drifz in 16x8, et 25, wrapped in Hoosier A6's in size 245/45/16 (bought on sale from Hoosier for $90/each!!!). They're not a perfect match to the Axe Ex8 wheels (aside from the color), but they are similar enough. We could not find a matched set of fronts and rears in the sizes/offsets we wanted. The Driftz wheels weighed in at 19 lbs.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/819043D3-C91A-4D8E-87A4-76748E4BFBA4_zpspibe3vsd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/819043D3-C91A-4D8E-87A4-76748E4BFBA4_zpspibe3vsd.jpg.html)

Plenty of clearance:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/19DB4859-8F1B-4B7B-BAC5-225288F15680_zpsmhi51oyz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/19DB4859-8F1B-4B7B-BAC5-225288F15680_zpsmhi51oyz.jpg.html)


Side by side:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/EC9C86AD-0B9A-4BC6-A7D8-658FF91ADA3E_zps8ncwc2iw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/EC9C86AD-0B9A-4BC6-A7D8-658FF91ADA3E_zps8ncwc2iw.jpg.html)


We know that the A6's on the rear with the used C71's on the front could create some odd handling characteristics due to the tire differences, but our small local lot is very rough on tires and we will not be using it for set up anyway. For the bigger lots (NNJR and NER), we will run the Hoosiers all around. Since we bought 8 wheels total, we will have one "local" set, and one "big event" set. Eventually, we will run larger tires on the rear, but we are running square to start at the events that matter, and this staggered set locally.

Now to decide to stick with silver or black and paint the other half to match...

[Tamra]

FYI, our 17x8, et 45 Enkei PFO1's with 255/40/17 Direzza Z2's rub on the stock rear trailing arms under heavy cornering. If anyone were to plan to use this size for track days or autocross, a spacer would be required (or Wayne's wide tire trailing arms). For regular putting around, they don't seem to rub.

[Wayne Presley]

The front on my car has 235's on it with rack limiters

[TouchStone]

I trying to get a set of wheels and tires that will work rack to rack without spacers. I'm fairly confident I've got something that will work but I'm still not sure if the fronts are too big. Please comment on my selection:

Front:
Wheel: 17x7.5 40mm offset
Tire: 225/45ZR17

Rear:
Wheel: 18x8 40mm offset
Tire: 245/40ZR18

Thanks

[JeromeS13]

I trying to get a set of wheels and tires that will work rack to rack without spacers. I'm fairly confident I've got something that will work but I'm still not sure if the fronts are too big. Please comment on my selection:

Front:
Wheel: 17x7.5
Tire: 225/45ZR17

Rear:
Wheel: 18x8
Tire: 245/40ZR18

Thanks

Depends on the offsets.

[TouchStone]

Depends on the offsets.
Updated: That would be important. I'm looking for 40mm offsets, maybe 50mm offsets.

[JeromeS13]

Updated: That would be important. I'm looking for 40mm offsets, maybe 50mm offsets.

Front may be a bit tall and rub on the firewall. Also, inside of the tire may contact the swaybar on the passenger side (mine does).

Rears may hit the top of the fender well on bumps.

[JAubin]

Touchstone, I've been having similar thoughts (ie a no hassle wheel/tire combo) and I've been considering 17x8 et40 front with 17x9 et35 rear, with 205/40 17 on the front and 245/40/17 rear, my biggest issue vs the standard 215/255 combo is tire selection, just way more 100-200 treadwear options on the wider combo.

[TouchStone]

Touchstone, I've been having similar thoughts (ie a no hassle wheel/tire combo) and I've been considering 17x8 et40 front with 17x9 et35 rear, with 205/40 17 on the front and 245/40/17 rear, my biggest issue vs the standard 215/255 combo is tire selection, just way more 100-200 treadwear options on the wider combo.

Selection/avalibility is a bit difficult. I mounted my donor wheels 205/55R16 et55 on the front and they don't even work lock to lock, so 16 inch wheels don't work?. Maybe 205/45R16 et45 will work. Here is a set I put together, http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/SavedItemFriend.jsp?userid=joshua.jach%40gmail.com&vehicleid=5499430. I'm probably going to make some cardboard wheels to test if these will fit.

[Pearldrummer7]

Selection/avalibility is a bit difficult. I mounted my donor wheels 205/55R16 et55 on the front and they don't even work lock to lock, so 16 inch wheels don't work?. Maybe 205/45R16 et45 will work. Here is a set I put together, http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/SavedItemFriend.jsp?userid=joshua.jach%40gmail.com&vehicleid=5499430. I'm probably going to make some cardboard wheels to test if these will fit.

24.878" is your outer diameter. I think that's your issue. From what I've read, you want to be just under 24.0"; since 205/45/16 is 23.2638", you'd be in the clear in terms of frame clearance (from a diameter standpoint...not to mention offset!).

For reference, my 215/40/R17's are 23.7717" and clear the body fine in a straight line. Wheel offset and width (plus how wide the tire actually is....since a 205 isn't always the same size) will determine frame clearance during turning.

[Harley818]

I've heard that the 45 series tires are a problem. As pearldrummer says and further back in this thread, you need to stay below 24.0 inches diameter to clear with an offset of around 35-40. in the front.
I have 235/40-17's with XXR530's and 33 offset on the front. Fit is great but I haven't driven it yet so not sure about fender clearance under compression.
Rears I have 255/35-17 with 33 offset. They are OK too although they are only 3/8 clearance to my trailing links and under load may touch. I can modify if necessary.

[TouchStone]

I have 235/40-17's with XXR530's and 33 offset on the front.

Can you measure the clearance you have between the wheel and the frame when fully turned? I got a set of the FFR wheels and they have a 40mm offset.

[Harley818]

Check my thread with this link.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14763-Harley-s-818S/page3

I show top view and side view of the clearance from the tire to the frame on the fronts in Post 94, rears on post 93.
If you have any other questions let me know. They fit great.

[Hindsight]

So heard from my friend BStuke that he is running 295/something/18 Hoosiers on the back of his R and they don't poke out the fender. ~45 offset wheel with a small spacer to keep from rubbing on the inside and Wayne's offset rear trailing arms.

This was news to me.... I haven't heard of anyone running tires that wide without flares. Thought I'd share, and maybe get the discussion going to see if anyone else has had luck with tires this big in back. I'm getting close to being ready to pull the trigger on some wheels and tires and want to go as big as possible. Still struggling between 17 and 18 in the back. I feel like 17 will offer better performance but if you go much over a 255, tires are hard to come by in 17" width.

[Kurk818]

The upper trailing arms tends to be hindering factor on tucking the wheels further inside, followed by the springs. In curious to see if any modifications were done to that. Im running 295 as well with 10.5" rims. Im within an 1/8" of the upper trailing arm and approx 1" wider than the out fb lip.

Credit to Canadian818

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k519/pope83/CIMG2045.jpg

You can see how much they stick out in this photo

http://i.imgur.com/YfehrWOl.jpg

[xxguitarist]

We will be doing some exploration of wider rears (and fronts), stay tuned :p

[Hindsight]

Andrew, I'm always tuned into your channel!

Kurk, thanks for sharing pics. Refresh my memory.... I think the upper arms have two spacers.... did you put both spacers on the outside in order to move the heim joint all the way to the inside for extra space? I believe that is a tip Wayne has provided in the past.

Tires are poking a bit but also looks like you have some positive camber there. And I think Bob is running a 9.5" width rim.... not sure how much impact that has on effective tire width vs your 10.5".

[Kurk818]

Andrew, I'm always tuned into your channel!

Kurk, thanks for sharing pics. Refresh my memory.... I think the upper arms have two spacers.... did you put both spacers on the outside in order to move the heim joint all the way to the inside for extra space? I believe that is a tip Wayne has provided in the past.

Tires are poking a bit but also looks like you have some positive camber there. And I think Bob is running a 9.5" width rim.... not sure how much impact that has on effective tire width vs your 10.5".

I have spacers installed one on each side.

[Scargo]

We will be doing some exploration of wider rears (and fronts), stay tuned :p
I imagine you will. If you want to play around with what I have you are welcome to come over and borrow them...

I may need to revisit my wheel setup. My first (and my gut instinct) thought is there is no way a 295 will clear anything that is stock from FFR.
I think I've said this already, but I took one of my 18x10.5" Enkei (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=enkei) RPF-01's (38ET) and 285X30 Hoosiers (similar to a 295)wheel/tire combo off my STi track car and tried it on the 818. Things may have changed a bit since then for me but it did not fit when I tried it. I have fully adjustable control arms. I could not get the camber I wanted either. So, I'm a bit puzzled but the statement about 295's fitting.

[Hindsight]

I imagine you will. If you want to play around with what I have you are welcome to come over and borrow them...

I may need to revisit my wheel setup. My first (and my gut instinct) thought is there is no way a 295 will clear anything that is stock from FFR.
I think I've said this already, but I took one of my 18x10.5" Enkei (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=enkei) RPF-01's (38ET) and 285X30 Hoosiers (similar to a 295)wheel/tire combo off my STi track car and tried it on the 818. Things may have changed a bit since then for me but it did not fit when I tried it. I have fully adjustable control arms. I could not get the camber I wanted either. So, I'm a bit puzzled but the statement about 295's fitting.

Do you have the control arms that are inset to allow wider wheels? Do you have both spacers on the outer side on both the upper and lower control arms and lateral links? That's about all I could think of. He's running Enkei Kojins with Hoosier slicks. I haven't seen it in person but when I do I will take a pic. He has been auto crossing like that all year.

[Scargo]

See http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12395-818R-quot-Glynman-Style-quot&p=181710&viewfull=1#post181710

245 X 45 X 17 on 17 X 9.5, +32 rims is about all I can fit in the rear. Perhaps he has his body jacked way up in the back?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

See http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12395-818R-quot-Glynman-Style-quot&p=181710&viewfull=1#post181710

245 X 45 X 17 on 17 X 9.5, +32 rims is about all I can fit in the rear. Perhaps he has his body jacked way up in the back?

Are you guys talking about Bob Stuke's car?
Here is an old picture.
48404



Scarco, My tires sizes are very similar to yours.
255 X 40 X 17 Toyo R888 on 17 X 9, +33 rims
I'm running oem LTA and everything else adjustable swaged bars set to stock length. no rub but close everywhere.
48405


Bob G

[Hindsight]

Yes, it's Bob's car.

[Hindsight]

From Bob:

So I have the offset trailing arm. You have to mount it for clearance on the inside of both mount points, then shim the outer part. I got away with about an 1/8 inch spacer so it had good room to rotate if needed.

The wheel I used is an Enkei Kojin 18X9.5 +45 5x100. I have ARP studs, and had to use 2 10mm spacers to get it back out off the trailing arm, but still under the wheel well. The tire is actually a 285/30ZR18 Hoosier A6.

[Hindsight]

So now that I know 285s will fit in back, I am wondering about the combination of 285 in back and 215 in front. I think I read that FFR felt four sizes between front and rear was the ideal balance for over/understeer. So I am wondering if a 285/215 combo is going to cause understeer?

[Tamra]

That seems like a really big bias to the rear. For street it really wouldn't matter much either way, but if you are going for performance then you'll need to figure out a way to get larger than 215's in the front. More tire is always better! :)

Considering no other factors, in a steady state cornering situation that sort of rear tire bias would tend to cause the car to understeer more (less grip in the front than in the rear so naturally the front will let loose first)... but there are so many other factors involved (spring rates front to rear, running a sway bar or not, alignment, etc.) that there is no easy answer. If you had crazy high rear spring rates and a rear sway bar, your car could oversteer like crazy with that tire setup. It just all depends.

[Hindsight]

Thanks for the input Tamra. I may just get a 9.5 wheel in the back so I can experiment with both 255 and 285.

[Hindsight]

Is anyone running wider than 215 up front on a 17" wheel without rubbing?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is anyone running wider than 215 up front on a 17" wheel without rubbing?

Yes, I'm running toyo R888 235/40-17 on 9" rims with 48 offset and 40mm increase track width, no steering limiters and no rubbing.
I also increased camber gain to tuck tires under the body during compression.
My son Michael tested R888 255/40-17 on 9" 48mm rims on the front. But the rubs the lower frame bar at full lock.
Bob
49463

[Hindsight]

Thanks Bob - So the 235/40/17 should probably be over 24" diameter which, I thought, was the limit for front tires before rubbing on the firewall frame tube. I wonder how much over 24" it is safe to go? Do you know if you HAVE to run a lot of camber on the 235 to get them to tuck? I've been considering 225s up front...... I ordered my wheels today. Need to make tire size choice soon.

[STiPWRD]

If you can find 225/40/17's (that aren't slicks) I'd like to know where, cuz I can't find any. It's either 215/40/17 or 235/40/17.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Bob - So the 235/40/17 should probably be over 24" diameter which, I thought, was the limit for front tires before rubbing on the firewall frame tube. I wonder how much over 24" it is safe to go? Do you know if you HAVE to run a lot of camber on the 235 to get them to tuck? I've been considering 225s up front...... I ordered my wheels today. Need to make tire size choice soon.

My inflated Diameter is 24.6"
My static camber is only -0.5 but I pick up 1 degree per inch of travel in bump.

49464

I did a lot of suspension stuff to make mine work.
Go smaller if you want to play it safe.
Bob

[Hindsight]

Slava, I have noticed that as well! I think I'm going to have to go up to 235 if I don't stick to the 215.

Bob, thanks for the notes. I like to play things safe, but also like traction :P Still on the fence. I saw Jerome ran 235/40/17 up front and he said there was just a touch of rubbing.

[Innkeepr]

Little help here guys.

I need new wheels for the donor ( the boys is still driving it ) - and have looked for something we can use on the 818C. TireRack shows everything at 45 offset. both 17x7.5 and 18x8.
Now just because TireRack says they will fit the car - will they transition over to the 818 when ready ?
Was going to purchase 4 of the 17x7.5 and then pick up 2 of the 18s when ready.
Suggested size on the 04 RS is 225/45ZR17 - so will I have to replace these on the front as FFR is showing 215/40s ?

Thanks for the input.
"E"

[Pearldrummer7]

Little help here guys.

I need new wheels for the donor ( the boys is still driving it ) - and have looked for something we can use on the 818C. TireRack shows everything at 45 offset. both 17x7.5 and 18x8.
Now just because TireRack says they will fit the car - will they transition over to the 818 when ready ?
Was going to purchase 4 of the 17x7.5 and then pick up 2 of the 18s when ready.
Suggested size on the 04 RS is 225/45ZR17 - so will I have to replace these on the front as FFR is showing 215/40s ?

Thanks for the input.
"E"

E-

There are a few concerns here. First of all, the front tires likely won't fit at 225/45/R17. As Harley said before:
you need to stay below 24.0 inches diameter to clear with an offset of around 35-40

That tire is 25" in diameter. I would recommend having something like 215/40's instead (what many are running on "stock" suspension). I have a +35 offset on my 17x8" front wheels with a 215/40 tire and they fit fine (rub at nearly full lock, but who needs full lock).

The other problem is the offset. +45 works well for a WRX, but not for the 818. I couldn't even get a nut threaded with my +48 offset 17x8's (from my daily driver WRX) in the front. They hit like everything.

To me, it seems that the wheels aren't as transferable at the manual makes it seem. Maybe get some used ones for the donor for now to tide the donor over until it's 818 time, and re sell them?

[Hindsight]

High offsets are fine but you need to use spacers and that requires longer wheel studs. I prefer going higher offset than you need because you can always push the wheel out more as required, but you can't pull it inward.

[Innkeepr]

Pearl - thats kind of what I thought. I am in the middle of rebuilding the ej207, just trying to save some time/money and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
If I can use the 35mm offset on both, thats a winner.

Hindsight - I really dislike using spacers. Maybe I am wrong, but I thought spacers transfer where the weight was hung on the mounting surface. Increasing the outward pressure on the studs vs the hub.
If I have to use spacers on the Impreza, I can - the car is just a local commuter, not a rally/race car.
I sent an email to Wayne, waiting his reply also as he is a dealer for the wheels I am looking at.

Thanks for your replies, anyone else want to chime in ?

Be safe,
"E"

[Hindsight]

Spacers do that, but no differently than wheels with different offsets do. Take a 10" wide wheel with a high offset. The mounting point is going to be close to the face of the wheel. Now take the same 10" wide wheel with a low offset. The mounting mounting point is going to be close to the center of the wheel. Taking a high offset wheel and adding spacers accomplishes the same thing as swapping out the wheel for one with a lower offset. There is no difference.

The only spacers I would be cautious of are the kind that bolt on. I would use the kind that just slide on and try to find some that are hub-centric.

Spacers really allow you to fine tune your fit. With an 818, you don't have the benefit of tens of thousands of people having already tried what you are thinking of doing. It also widens the selection of wheels, and ensures if you order a set that end up rubbing, you aren't up a creek because you can just space them out a bit to get it perfect.

I sound like a salesman for spacers here :o

[Innkeepr]

Hindsight -

So if I pick up 17x7.5 ( or 17x8 ) with a 40 offset and use a 5mm spacer it should be fine on the 04 RS. Seeing that FFR sells their wheels with a 40 mm offset, I accomplish the same.
Dont think I need to worry about studs with this set up.

[Kurk818]

This is my clearance to the lower trailing arm with 295's in the rear.

http://i.imgur.com/TMbB7dKl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jYD3SL2l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IBTPMOBl.jpg

+20mm offset

[Scargo]

... I really dislike using spacers. Maybe I am wrong, but I thought spacers transfer where the weight was hung on the mounting surface. Increasing the outward pressure on the studs vs the hub.
I was of the same mind till I understood what was going on and why. Slight spacing can be a great tool, as mentioned. All tires are not equal, especially in racing and DOT3 track tires. A 3-5MM spacer can work wonders. For me it allowed me to get the full negative camber I wanted without rubbing the springs and yet not getting into the fender and not having to buy new wheels. As you and everyone has noticed wheel manufacturers are not willing to build odd offsets or "ETs" for every situation. Rather than compromise the size, strength or weight just get spacers.
Don't buy crap, cast spacers and buy wheel-centric ones that will not cause an imbalance. Keep spacers to a minimum thickness. I'm still not a big fan of a joint (the wheel to spacer contact point) being way out on a wheel stud. You are adding another part and another contact surface and another pace for stacking of tolerances and balance issues. Yet, lots of people do it in racing!

Speaking of studs, don't skimp on thread contact when using a spacer. There are the long ARP (and competitive studs) and then there are some intermediate lengths to be had. I switched everything over to the more common 12 X 1.5 from 12 X 1.25. One to look for is ARP 100-7717, designed for the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII. Beefier threads and many more options out there for lug nuts.

[Hindsight]

I switched everything over to the more common 12 X 1.5 from 12 X 1.25.

That's very good advice, not just for the availability factor but also for the thread strength factor. The ultra-fine thread Subaru uses are VERY easy to damage. Just a slight tap with the wheel while lining up the holes with the studs can mangle the threads.

[STiPWRD]

That's very good advice, not just for the availability factor but also for the thread strength factor. The ultra-fine thread Subaru uses are VERY easy to damage. Just a slight tap with the wheel while lining up the holes with the studs can mangle the threads.
I'm on the other side of the fence on this - a fine thread screw has greater tensile area than a coarse thread (by about 5%) so it will have higher strength. Also, it may be that I'm using aluminum wheels but I've never damaged my wheel stud threads when removing/installing wheels. If I were to damage the threads, I have an M12x1.25 die to chase them with.

[Scargo]

I'm on the other side of the fence on this - a fine thread screw has greater tensile area than a coarse thread (by about 5%) so it will have higher strength. Also, it may be that I'm using aluminum wheels but I've never damaged my wheel stud threads when removing/installing wheels. If I were to damage the threads, I have an M12x1.25 die to chase them with.
Well, you know, "race car". How much stronger do you think the ARP studs are over stock? I've seen stock break at the track. Yes, finer threads have a bit more strength. I got tired of cross-threading nuts. 1.25 is the odd-man out on studs and especially if you are upgrading it just seems to make a lot of sense to me to switch! Lug nuts are cheaper!
I'm not going to recommend them just yet but I bought a set of aluminum lug nuts for $48 and they weight almost half what the steel racing nuts weight. NA in 1.25.

[Innkeepr]

Scargo -

I am looking at 5mm hubcentric subaru spacers - if thats the route I need to go. My main concern for now is that all the 04 RS wheels on Tirerack show a 45mm offset. Other places I looked at show 35 - 50.
If I can get away with 40s with 5mm spacers for the RS now, and use it on the 818C later - I will be happy.
I plan on Waynes wide tire LC for the rear, so there shouldn't be an issue with that aspect. Just have to decide to get 4 of the 17x7.5s or go 17x8

[Scargo]

Innkeepr, Please don't rely on me for advice on the wheels. There are others with wheels mounted on street versions. Mine is an R, I'm not even using the standard suspension pieces and my stuff is big and may... I say "may" fit under the car and work without flares. I am starting with Front: 17 x 9 +49 / Rear: 17 x 9.5 +32
I would say that you should look at tires you might consider and see what the recommended rim width is. Then there is an acceptable range of rim widths. If you contemplate going to a bigger tire later on then go with the wider rims from the start. The only downside is the slight increase in wheel weight which shouldn't worry you with a street car.

[STiPWRD]

Well, you know, "race car". How much stronger do you think the ARP studs are over stock? I've seen stock break at the track. Yes, finer threads have a bit more strength. I got tired of cross-threading nuts. 1.25 is the odd-man out on studs and especially if you are upgrading it just seems to make a lot of sense to me to switch! Lug nuts are cheaper!
I'm not going to recommend them just yet but I bought a set of aluminum lug nuts for $48 and they weight almost half what the steel racing nuts weight. NA in 1.25.
I'd agree that the ARP studs are most likely stronger than stock, I'm actually running ARP studs with 10mm spacers out back in the 818. They are just fine thread instead of coarse. I've heard that fine threads are more prone to galling if the threaded hole and fastener are made of the same material and not properly lubricated. I just haven't had any issues personally with the fine thread studs.

Innkeeper, if you can get away with the existing donor wheels for now and buy specific wheels for the 818, I'd suggest that route. If you do go with spacers, there's nothing wrong with that, just get the hub centric ones as mentioned and it's recommended that you get extended wheel studs like the ARPs as they will ensure you have enough thread engagement on the studs. If you absolutely have to buy wheels that will fit the RS, I used to run 18x9 +38mm offset rims with 225/40/18 tires on my 02 wrx so they should also fit your RS.

[Innkeepr]

STi

After much wrestling with the idea - I concede you are right. Just going to replace the 16s for now. Was hoping to get dual use, but it appears I would be throwing good $ after bad.
Think I will play around with my powder coating on a stock set, that should satisfy the boy and me for now.

Thanks for your input.

[Hindsight]

Adding my stats to the thread to help others.

Wheels:
Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 et38 rear, 17x8 et45 front.
Tires:
Dunlop Direzza Z2 star-spec 265/35/18 rear, 235/40/17 front

Pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15217-Hindsight-s-build-thread&p=227725&viewfull=1#post227725

The only non-standard suspension modifications on my 818 are VCP rear lower trailing arms and free caster mod up front (flipping the rear lower control arm bracket 180 degrees).

I don't have the body on yet so can't comment on rubbing or whether spacers are needed to space the wheels and tires OUT for better looks. On the inside front, there is no rubbing all the way to full lock. On the rear, I needed to remove the spacer sleeves for the upper trailing link, then move the link as far inward as I could between the tabs on each end of the link. I used an M10 washer as the spacer on the inside of the tabs (as shown in pic in my build thread linked above), and will need to cut a new longer outer spacer to length. Aside from that, I don't appear to need any wheel spacers to prevent rubbing from the inside.

I'll update this after the body is on.

[Mechie3]

Time to buy some tires and looking for input. Mostly an (overkill) street tire, maybe some track days if I ever get it done (:rolleyes:).

People have said to stay under 24", but I'm finding that difficult given tire sizes available for Zii's, V720, and RE-71R. It would be nice if the car was designed to fit tires that are commonly available.

It looks like Hindsight's setup is close to what I'd want, but even his fronts are over the 24" that is said to rub.

Thoughts?

Wheels:
Front - 17x8.25 [+35mm]
Rear - 18x8.75 [+33mm]


215/45/17 - 24.6" OD (too big and too narrow)
225/45/17 - 25" OD (too big)
234/40/17 - 24.4" OD (close)
2450/40/17 - 24.4" OD (close)

[Hindsight]

I've done a string alignment since making that post and still no rubbing on the frame. The frame is the issue with the > 24" diameter. I am using the aluminum control arms and have the caster mod.... not sure if that helps with the clearance or not. I think 24" is the very safe front diameter. You can go a little bigger, probably, but much past 24.5" and you are going to have a very high chance of rubbing I think.

Still don't have the body on so can't comment on body rubbing yet.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Craig
There are so many thing that come into play it is difficult to guarantee what will work.
This was my first attempt, which rubbed fender during a low to medium autocross corners. Maybe 1/2 G.
STI alum. LCA mounted in wagon holes on early frame (40mm more than normal track width)
17x9x45et rims with 235/40-17 Toyo R888.
No problem lock to lock. Maybe would touch inner aluminum if I had it installed.
Rubbed fenders badly even in a low G turn.
To fix the problem I went with taller upper ball joint to increase camber gain. this gets the wheel to tuck under the fender better.
Second, lengthened the shock to have the bump stop come into play before it rubs the fender.
Third, I stiffened the rear springs to prevent body roll.

I suggest you start with some cheap used rims and tires. Put some foam under you fenders to see where/when you rub during autocross conditions. Then you will know how big you can go.
Bob

[Mechie3]

Cross posting from my build thread.

No alignment yet.

Tires are 235/40/17 and 255/35/18. Wheels are XXR 530, 17 x 8.25 et35 and 18 x 8.75 et 35 rear. No spacers. Sedan arms in sedan holes. Ebay rear trailing arm.

The OD is closer to 23.5 than the mathematical 24.4 you'd expect a 235/40/17 to be. 1.5" of clearance to the rear aluminum when going straight. Didn't turn the wheel to see how that does.
http://i.imgur.com/RmQTaZz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dUeEWOV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2N65j8S.jpg

Rear tire has good clearance as well.
http://i.imgur.com/SgLXhvt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RgYk3qA.jpg

[Harley818]

Hey Craig,
same wheels and tire sizes as mine.
I haven't aligned it yet either, but so far It looks good.
You have more clearance with the trailing links. Did you get those from Wayne? Got mine on eBay from godspeed and I have about 1/4 in clearance. Might have to cut off the rear mount bracket and reweld it over a bit, or make a new bracket.

[FFRSpec72]

What does your clearance on the top of the front fender and tire look like ?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What does your clearance on the top of the front fender and tire look like ?
Tony,
I am running 5" ride height with toyo R888 235/40-17 in front and 255/40-17 in rear.
I can set a 2x4 on top of each tire and it will clear the fender.
If you are running 3 1/2 " race ride height. The top of your tire will be even with the fender. I suspect you will rub.
Bob

A picture from yesterday:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55046&d=1465948747

[FFRSpec72]

So I'm a little concerned as with a 3.5" ride height I have very little room between the front fender and tire, I'm running 400lbs springs in the front, going to a higher ride height is going to take away the advantages of the aero.

55057

[Mitch Wright]

Run it, my tire and wheel combo is also a tight fit playing around with the back of the fender were it mounts to the rocker might help. I can gain maybe a 1/4 inch of clearance at the top of the fender well but moving the back of the fender where it mounts to the rocker out an 1.5 inches.
Something to play with.
Tony it looks like I am about 3 weeks behind you, looking forward to your track report.

[Buzz Skyline]

It looks like many of the wheel and tire combinations people are listing require an upgraded trailing arm. I would like to run 225 on the front and 255 on the back, but I don't want to swap out my donor training arms. Does anyone know if the Enkei 18x8 with 255/35 fit on the back without spacers?

[wleehendrick]

It looks like many of the wheel and tire combinations people are listing require an upgraded trailing arm. I would like to run 225 on the front and 255 on the back, but I don't want to swap out my donor training arms. Does anyone know if the Enkei 18x8 with 255/35 fit on the back without spacers?

What's the offset? In back, I have stock wagon trailing arms and plenty of clearance with 255/35R18 tires on 18x8.75 XXR rims, +35mm offset.

[Wayne Presley]

It looks like many of the wheel and tire combinations people are listing require an upgraded trailing arm. I would like to run 225 on the front and 255 on the back, but I don't want to swap out my donor training arms. Does anyone know if the Enkei 18x8 with 255/35 fit on the back without spacers?


The 18x8.5 +48's fit with the stock arm on the 818 that I have in the shop now. I'm an Enkei dealer so let me quote you a set.

[Buzz Skyline]

The 18x8.5 +48's fit with the stock arm on the 818 that I have in the shop now. I'm an Enkei dealer so let me quote you a set.

I just went out and took a look. It's not the trailing arm that's the problem after all. It's the link that comes in diagonally to the knuckle. There's about 10 mm of clearance between the wheel/tire and the link. I have RPF1s that are 17x7 with 42 mm offset now. If we add an inch to the wheel width (~25 mm) it would rub badly, so 17x8 are out unless the offset is reduced by about 4 mm. Going with 18x8 would be OK with 45 mm offset, maybe. But 18x8.5 with +48 almost certainly won't fit unless I change something pretty dramatically with the links.

Have I done something wrong with the adjustment of the links? The rear toe is about 0. Camber is about -1, as I recall.

[Wayne Presley]

Rear toe should be 3/16" in total. Move the link all the way inboard and put the spacers out to gain another .25".

[Zach34]

Do 18" wheels fit in the new version front fenders?

[Wayne Presley]

Do 18" wheels fit in the new version front fenders?

It's an issue with tire diameter, the tire hits the frame first

[Buzz Skyline]

The 18x8.5 +48's fit with the stock arm on the 818 that I have in the shop now. I'm an Enkei dealer so let me quote you a set.
I'd prefer a safer offset. Enkei seems to have 17" and 18" wheels with 35 mm offset and 5-100 bolt pattern. They are part numbers 3797808035SP for the 17" and 3798808035SP for the 18". Can you get me quotes for those?

[Wayne Presley]

I'd prefer a safer offset. Enkei seems to have 17" and 18" wheels with 35 mm offset and 5-100 bolt pattern. They are part numbers 3797808035SP for the 17" and 3798808035SP for the 18". Can you get me quotes for those?

Fronts are $490 pair and rears are $590 pair. Both are in stock but they are down to 4 on the fronts

[Buzz Skyline]

Fronts are $490 pair and rears are $590 pair. Both are in stock but they are down to 4 on the fronts

Great. Thanks Wayne!

[axelthrasher]

So, I tried to fit wheels/tires from my WRX onto my 818S... no dice. Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35 5x100 Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec 245/40/17 with no spacer, rubbed both wheel wells at full lock left and right on the front. Also, the tire would bury itself into the end link for the sway bar. I would say, confirmed - this is not a good fitment. :-(
65525
65526
65527
65528
65529
65530

[Wayne Presley]

So, I tried to fit wheels/tires from my WRX onto my 818S... no dice. Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35 5x100 Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec 245/40/17 with no spacer, rubbed both wheel wells at full lock left and right on the front. Also, the tire would bury itself into the end link for the sway bar. I would say, confirmed - this is not a good fitment. :-(
65525
65526
65527
65528
65529
65530
You mean of you go 3 sizes larger on the front row than recommended, they rub?

[axelthrasher]

You mean of you go 3 sizes larger on the front row than recommended, they rub?

Apparently they don't work... who knew!?! The only reason I tossed them on was to post pictures for someone later down the road to hopefully prevent their mistake. I have them as a spare set for my wrx, and thought - why not? Tonight, I believe I will try my Enkei RPF1 17x8 +45 5x100 with 225/45/17 Blizzak WS80 just to check fitment...

[Scargo]

Wayne, that's mean. I say forget full lock! Who needs it? Way overrated. Big fat tires on the front will help with understeer and added weight will help prevent wheelies.

[axelthrasher]

For my wheel/tire setup on my 818S, I will be running 17x8 +45 Enkei RPF1

For tires, I'm torn between A) 235/40/17 front and 255/40/17 rear, or B) 215/45/17 front and 245/40/17 rear.

[SixStar]

The CCWs are back in Colorado and the AEM 818R now has black RPF1s all around.

Went with the same size in the front - 17x9 45ET
And a bit smaller in the back, down from a 10.5 to a 18x9.5 38ET

Saved 24# all around which was nice. Still running 255/40-17 and 285/30-18 R1Ss all around.

65536

[axelthrasher]

The CCWs are back in Colorado and the AEM 818R now has black RPF1s all around.

Went with the same size in the front - 17x9 45ET
And a bit smaller in the back, down from a 10.5 to a 18x9.5 38ET

Saved 24# all around which was nice. Still running 255/40-17 and 285/30-18 R1Ss all around.

65536

How the heck to you fit those under those wheel wells!?! I tried my 245/40/17s on my 17x9 +35 RPF1... not even close, major rub.

I have STI Brembos that I will be swapping to on my car, and 17x9 DO NOT play nice with the STI Brembos... So, due to the constraints that is the 818S, I will have to run 17x8 up front, possibly 17x9 in rear, but I'm not sure yet.

[SixStar]

How the heck to you fit those under those wheel wells!?! I tried my 245/40/17s on my 17x9 +35 RPF1... not even close, major rub.

I have STI Brembos that I will be swapping to on my car, and 17x9 DO NOT play nice with the STI Brembos... So, due to the constraints that is the 818S, I will have to run 17x8 up front, possibly 17x9 in rear, but I'm not sure yet.

I should have mentioned that I'm still running studs and spacers. 7.5mm or so in the front and 17-18mm in the back. It's been a minute since I measured them and storage space in my brain is at a premium these days. :D

[axelthrasher]

So, after more test fitting I believe I have finally decided on the wheel/tire setup that I plan to run on my 818s. Both fitments were not using any wheel spacers.

65776 - This is my 5x100 17x9 +35 Enkei RPF1 with 245/40/27 Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec (works in the rear with about 10mm of space from the trailing arm. No other fitment issues. Don't work in the front at all).
65777
65778


65779 - These 2 are of my 5x100 17x8 +45 Enkei RPF1 with 225/45/17 Blizzak WS80 (these do not work well in the front as they hit the sway bar end links, and fender liners).
65780

Ultimately, I will go with a staggered setup. I will post pictures and details once the car is fit up.

[Harley818]

I've heard that the 45 series tires are a problem. As pearldrummer says and further back in this thread, you need to stay below 24.0 inches diameter to clear with an offset of around 35-40. in the front.
I have 235/40-17's with XXR530's and 33 offset on the front. Fit is great but I haven't driven it yet so not sure about fender clearance under compression.
Rears I have 255/35-17 with 33 offset. They are OK too although they are only 3/8 clearance to my trailing links and under load may touch. I can modify if necessary.


OK, now that I have driven the car for a week, I am 100% happy with my wheel tire combination above.
I am not using any spacers.
I bought the rear adjustable trailing links off ebay, and the wheel/tires do not contact the trailing links.
I also bought adjustable lateral links, and with them set at the stock 2002 wagon length (16 1/8 center to center) the tires do not contact the trailing links even under high lateral cornering (I have about 1/4 in clearance).

Really happy with my choice of tires/wheels.

The front tires rub just a bit at extreme lock, but that is a small sacrifice to pay for the look of the full fender and the balance between front and rear.
The rear tires do not contact anything unless I hit a pothole or recessed mancover - just a slight contact.


The rear tires break loose a little earlier than I like, but really controllable. I do have my front sway bar in, and I might still play with rear alignment a bit, although I am pretty pleased with the cornering (like a rail, and very predictable).

[flynntuna]

Dragging this thread out again. I'm about at the point where I'll need to purchase tires. :cool::(
I've been looking around and the choices as you all know is thin to say the least. I've been searching different sizes, the recommended sizes 215x40x17 ft 255x35x18 rear and 235x40x17 and 255x35 x18. 225x40x17 are only avail in track tires only. What is avail are Dunlop and Toyo brands that I'm concidering.

I've only searched Tire Rack online so far, and I'm not sure we're else to look.
Here's what I've found so far....

[phil1734]

Personal recommendation based on price, current performance on my 818, and past performance over several seasons of LeMons and ChumpCar -
85918

They are currently rated 2nd out of 9 in the category on tire rack, but you'd have to run 265 rears (.25" taller diameter, .375" wider, would probably be okay.)

With my driving ability I figure I'll always be better off in the long run being able to afford to replace flat-spotted tires then buying top of the line for twice the price and a near-negligible grip improvement.

[flynntuna]

Thanks for the info.

[Sgt.Gator]

Hoosier is the maker of Continental racing tires. Continental will no longer be sponsoring the Continental Tire SportsCar Challenge next year, Michelin has taken that sponsorship at IMSA. The result is we can buy left over new Continental Race Tires now at a good price from Hoosier, and probably will only get better, as the 2018 season comes to an end. Not only are the prices good, exceptional really, but the shipping is very cheap. $15 total whether you buy 1 or a dozen. I've already received a bunch for my STI and Palatov, some of the available sizes may work for an 818. These are full on racing slicks in both wet and dry versions. They are not DOT approved for road use!

https://shop.hoosiertire.com/index.php/circuit-racing.html

[Mulry]

Received our wheels a couple weeks ago. Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2. Fronts are 15x7 to prevent rubbing on the tub, rears are 17x9. Purchased through DemonTweeks in Wales, UK, and they shipped to Dallas. Was great working with them. Look forward to putting slicks on these:

115075

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Received our wheels a couple weeks ago. Team Dynamics ProRace 1.2. Fronts are 15x7 to prevent rubbing on the tub, rears are 17x9. Purchased through DemonTweeks in Wales, UK, and they shipped to Dallas. Was great working with them. Look forward to putting slicks on these:

115075

Mulry,
I am also running Team Dynamic wheels. My size is 17 x 9 - 45 et on all four corners. My tires are 235/40 front and 255/40 rear. 15mm spacers on rear.
Do your 15" front wheels have any problem fitting over the brakes. If you get a chance, can you take a picture of the brake clearance.
Thanks
Bob

115090

[Hobby Racer]

Do your 15" front wheels have any problem fitting over the brakes. If you get a chance, can you take a picture of the brake clearance.
115090

Also interested in the front brake clearance! Please post pics when you can.

[BigDanSubaru]

Front: 18x8 +45 Storm Grey Enkei Tuning TS-V
Front: 215/35ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Rear: 18x9.5 +45 Storm Grey Enkei Tuning TS-V
Rear: 255/35ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S

Running the VCP lower control arms for the extra clearance. Wheels currently hitting the rear upper control link. I am going to try putting both spacers to one side to offset the link for more clearance. If that does not give me enough, I'll consider adding 5mm or 10mm spacers in the rear.

Update: Offestting the rear upper control links helped slighly, but it just doesn't feel right to install them that way. I am going to just order 10mm spacers for the rear with extended wheel studs. I test fitted using stacks of flat washers and 10mm will provide the needed clearance. I just hope they fit under the rear fenders. Won't know until I get the body all lined up and get the car aligned.

173442 173443 173441

[Scrmblr2]

Front: 18x8 +45 Storm Grey Enkei Tuning TS-V
Front: 215/35ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Rear: 18x9.5 +45 Storm Grey Enkei Tuning TS-V
Rear: 255/35ZR18 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S

Running the VCP lower control arms for the extra clearance. Wheels currently hitting the rear upper control link. I am going to try putting both spacers to one side to offset the link for more clearance. If that does not give me enough, I'll consider adding 5mm or 10mm spacers in the rear.

Update: Offestting the rear upper control links helped slighly, but it just doesn't feel right to install them that way. I am going to just order 10mm spacers for the rear with extended wheel studs. I test fitted using stacks of flat washers and 10mm will provide the needed clearance. I just hope they fit under the rear fenders. Won't know until I get the body all lined up and get the car aligned.

173442 173443 173441

Goodness, those rears look soooo wide without any bodywork. I picked up a a set of F5 wheels during my buil. Interestingly enough, they no longer sell them. That being said, they are certainly wide enough. Currently trying to decide on another set. Not sure they will stay staggered like the F5 units but depending on size of tire and use of spacers, I am hoping to maybe go 17” all around. Also just upgraded to wilwood bbk @ all 4 corners, and since the pay fit under Subaru factory wheels, just trying to find a light, strong and lower cost alternative with good tire options..206589206590