I wanted power brakes for the 33. This weekend it became reality. Thanks Jeff!

He created a kit for the car. Here are the installation steps.

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I Removed the 6 studs used to hold the Wilwood Brake Master Cylinders as they will not be required.image.jpg

Next, installed the new brake pedal supplied in the Kit as per the Wilwood instructions using the hardware supplied in the Factory Five Brake Pedal Package as needed. Also install the brake light switch as described in those instructions.image.jpg

Used a Grade 8 - ½ bolt of the correct length as a pivot rod as bushing is too tight for the Wilwood rod and c-clips. Used some spacers and a copper thrust bearing (From F5 Kit) so that the nut and bolt can be tightened without restricting free movement of the pedal.

Next, installed the brake pedal pad from the Factory Five Kit using its’ supplied hardware. Finally, installed the entire pedal box assembly. Now lots of room for electronics.image.jpgimage.jpg

Only 3 of the 4 holes go all the way through; the 2 top holes and the bottom left hole (the one closest to the center of the car). Only these 3 holes will be drilled completely through the firewall and the frame members. The 4th hole (bottom right or outboard hole) will only go through the firewall and the outer side of the firewall frame member. This is because the chassis ID or Serial Number is engraved on the inside of that frame member right where that hole would come through and you I did not want to disfigure that identification stamping.image.jpgimage.jpg

Used a 1/4” bit to open the 4th and final mounting hole up in order to tap it with a 5/16” – 18 tap.


Next, used the mounting template as a guide, and a 7/8” hole saw and a Dremel tool to open the center oval slot. You are able to see the brake lever through that slot when done.image.jpg

Used 3M synthetic double sided tape normally used for attaching emblems to cars. It is weather proof, very sticky and fairly dense.image.jpg