FFR Side Louvers improvement and other small tweeks

[skullandbones]

When I first saw the side vents for my roadster, I was a little disappointed. That was several years ago when I first opened the boxes for inventory. When it came time to actually install the vents for the first time, I decided to do something about it. BTW: I did a search but could not find a similar mod done so I hope I am not duplicating someone's prior effort (did not search FFcars). The vent is a flat peice with some slots CNCed in it. Here's what I did.

I spread the vanes of the vents to approximately what I thought they should be. Then I cut out a peice of aluminum 9 x 1.5 inches and bent it lengthwise at 3/4 inches to 90 degrees. I created 4 supports see below. Then I placed the supports against the top and bottom of the vanes, clamped, and riveted them in place. At this point I spread each vane to the edge of the support so their edge and the support edges were even. After doing this the vanes are in perfect position without having to measure. Then I siliconed the back side of each vane top and bottom to the interface of the supports and let them dry.

The end result is a substantially stronger and 3 dimensional peice for very little time and effort. I have seen the Finish Line vents and they are a work of art but I wanted to use what came with the kit as a starting point. If I had not done the improvement, I probably would not have used them. But after installing them, I think they look pretty good. The second main reason for the mod was to make the peice usable through removal and reinstalling for painting and other situations. I installed them per manual instructions with silicone. I have pics of the different steps and vents installed.

After seeing some threads about the quick jacks I did a few tweeks to change the look. In front I just reversed the peices like they were done for the FIAs. I did not like the way they protrude. I think it gives it a cleaner look. I will have to replace the bolts with threaded studs eventually to make it "correct" but that's it for now. In the rear, I could not reverse the jacks but was able to shorten the distance like on the originals (thanks Gumball for your pics). Here I did shorten the bolts and threaded them to simulate the original look. More work than I thought but worth it. I think eventually, I will replace the studs front and back with larger diameters and plates to make the jacks functional (another future mod).

[Dan Babb]

Lot of guys used to use a piece of 3/4" aluminum angle and rivet it to the top & bottom of the louvers.

It is a cheap and easy fit to give some 'beef' to the whimpy FFR provided piece. Cheaper than buying a nicer set from our vendors too.

Yours is a nice solution too.


Like the look of the quickjacks in front and your shins will thank you. If you're going to chrome them, using a stainless button head bolt would look nice. Probably not too easy to find at your local big box store, but McMaster has all the major sizes.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#=nb38zv

[skullandbones]

Dan,

I figured it had been done before. It was begging me to do something, though. So it makes sense that some of the many previous builders would have found a solution. I was surprised how well it looks for the amount of effort taken. Usually, it's the other way around. I wanted to see a car with the Finish Line product on it to see just how much difference it would make when installed. Since a lot of the beauty of the stainless steel one is covered by the body. I'm sure I will get to see it sooner or later. Thanks, WEK.

[AZPete]

Ask and you shall receive. Louvers from **********, painted to match the silver stripe. About the same as your mod but I didn't get the DIY satisfaction.

[IMG]http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Louvers**********.jpg[/IMG]

[Gumball]

Now that is making lemonade out of lemons with that louver mod. Anyone can order up a set from ********** (...I did), but you not only made do with what came with the kit, but you improved it ten fold!!!

I really like the look of the quick jacks, too... nice move with those. You can reverse the rears, but it actually requires more stand-off, but gives the illusion of being closer. The originals were reversed both front and rear in many cases (not always consistent on the installation orientation), and didn't follow the contour of the body... they just moved them far enough to clear.

Here's a pic of one of the original cars from the Shelby American Collection in Boulder, CO that I took last time I visited:

[riptide motorsport]

Very nice.

[GJerry]

Nice job, looks great!

[Blue MK3]

Not to rain on your party, S&B, but every Cobra I've ever seen (including CSX cars) displays five vertical louvers in the body opening. Your mod displays four. Since you seem to be going for originality, you might consider this before permanently installing your modified louvers. Just a thought.

[skullandbones]

Hey Blue MK3,

No problem. I appreciate the criticism as it makes me think and in many cases helps to improve the overall project. I have never even noticed the number of vanes before but I will from now on. I am not concerned with the original look as much as does it look good and does it make sense. But I am trying to follow some semblance of the way they were built. I really want mine to look more like a racer that made the wrong turn and ended up on the street. I will try to reposition my vents when I take them off to prep for final paint. I must have them too far forward. Another thing I want to do is build a splitter that is outboard the nose instead of the one I see in lots of the replica builds that are inside. So far I have only seen pics of sqare 3/4 tubing or in one or two cases flat stock connecting the quick jacks in front. I guess I will keep looking. Of course, it may be that the position inside the nose is necessary for it to work. Again, thanks for your nice observation! WEK.

[Blue MK3]

Hey Blue MK3,

No problem. I appreciate the criticism as it makes me think and in many cases helps to improve the overall project. I have never even noticed the number of vanes before but I will from now on. I am not concerned with the original look as much as does it look good and does it make sense. But I am trying to follow some semblance of the way they were built. I really want mine to look more like a racer that made the wrong turn and ended up on the street. I will try to reposition my vents when I take them off to prep for final paint. I must have them too far forward. Another thing I want to do is build a splitter that is outboard the nose instead of the one I see in lots of the replica builds that are inside. So far I have only seen pics of sqare 3/4 tubing or in one or two cases flat stock connecting the quick jacks in front. I guess I will keep looking. Of course, it may be that the position inside the nose is necessary for it to work. Again, thanks for your nice observation! WEK.

It wasn't meant to be anything but a constructive comment. That's what these forums are for, right? Nice work on the car. I have the "cheap" flimsy aluminum louvers. They don't look too bad, though. Mine are held in place by Velcro. Makes it easy to remove them for access and then reinstall.

[SCFFR]

Went the same route as AZPete and got the louvers from ********** which I had painted along with the body (Ford Guardsman Blue). I just really didn't like the "fold out" ones that came with the kit. I kept thinking that since they were just bent into shape, I would have to keep bending them as air flowed over the vanes and flatten them out. Of course, that would be prevented by the modification you did.
I glassed the angle brackets to the sides of the body above and below the opening and used #6 ss pan head machine screws to attach louvers to brackets.
I still have my FFR vents that I never opened if anyone wants them, send me a PM.

Ron
Louvers.jpgLouvers1.jpg

[bil1024]

Very nice mod, thanks for the tip!

[skullandbones]

Just had to do one more thing. I think I might like the FIA hood scoop "grille" that consists of a peice of aluminum with different size round holes. I have seen a variety of iterations in videos and vintage pics but usually the grille is recessed back into the scoop a couple of inches but that varies as well. I will be doing some body work on the hood later this summer at which time I will add that shelf that finishes off the hood scoop opening. However, I am not there yet so I did a temporary version with it right in the front of the scoop. I did see two photos of track cars that had them sort of like this. I wanted to see how it would look so I did a quicky version (sort of free handed on the drill press). I will do a much more careful layout and measurement on the final one. It looks so much better than the unfinished opening with a hole that I will be happy to drive it this way for a while. Nobody told me I would have this much fun on the little stuff. Thanks, WEK.

[Gumball]

Yeah, the little stuff is what makes the build take way longer than you originally thought. Sometimes it's hard to stop with these details!

[AZPete]

Nice work, Bill. The little stuff can be fun and satisfying to see the results.
Pete

[SCFFR]

Very cool! Those details really makes a difference.
Ron

[skullandbones]

I thought the addition of a nudge bumper would be a no brainer but the placement may be more critical than I first guessed. I saw one on a roadster that is basically a drag machine but it looks very nice just with the bumper without anything else. So I thought it might be worth a try to see what it would look like with the chrome bumper and the quick jacks. After I saw one on a really nice professionally built car, I had at least a little validation. So this is my first iteration of it. I didn't change the spacers much. It allowed the initial mounting but it isn't exactly where I want it. There is a very good reason for not working. Can you guess? Well it's a simple thing. So it is back to the metal shop for more threaded rod for longer studs and some 5/8 in tubing to sleeve the rods. I will have to check for more pics to see how they are normally spaced from the body (you're welcome to post pics). It may be back to where I started. I know the look is what I want right now. It is more racy than anything else. But when I do put a paint job on it, I think I am going to chrome the quick jacks and add the acorn nuts as a finishing touch. Right now it would be a little too dressy. The rear end of these things looks good but the bumper helps to define it a little better. IMO, WEK.

[MPTech]

Don't know if you will experience the same thing, but with my rear bumper in the stock location, I cannot insert the trunk key. Yours may be different with the MK3.

[skullandbones]

That's it! I can get the key in a little but not straighten enough to allow it to work. Mine isn't in the stock position. That is, I shortened the spacers to get the quick jacks closer to the body before the bumper was added. However, I did not want to wait for the new material to alter it so I reused the spacers I had and mounted it. It will have to be about a 1/2 inch further out to get the key in. But I did get to see what it would look like so it's OK. Maybe the MKIV spacers are not as long stock as the MKIIIs are. Also, is yours a Finish Line bumper? Thanks, WEK.

[MPTech]

No, mine is FFR, should be the stock spacing from the body. I think the difference with the MK4 is the drop butt, the body and trunk are lower than the MK3. I'm just going to extend my spacers 1/4" to 1/2" (need to take a measurement).

[rich grsc]

I will give you the same hint I did Mark (MPTech) cut the back of the key off, and drill new hole.

But he doesnt want to take my hint.

[skullandbones]

Yeah, that's pretty funny! I did think about that: you know when you've screwed up and your brain is trying to quickly recover with a simple solution like the shorter key. Well, mine would not have enough left to even turn the key so I will have to move the bumper. Thanks for trying, WEK.

[chiefshocker]

When I first saw the side vents for my roadster, I was a little disappointed. That was several years ago when I first opened the boxes for inventory. When it came time to actually install the vents for the first time, I decided to do something about it. BTW: I did a search but could not find a similar mod done so I hope I am not duplicating someone's prior effort (did not search FFcars). The vent is a flat peice with some slots CNCed in it. Here's what I did.

I spread the vanes of the vents to approximately what I thought they should be. Then I cut out a peice of aluminum 9 x 1.5 inches and bent it lengthwise at 3/4 inches to 90 degrees. I created 4 supports see below. Then I placed the supports against the top and bottom of the vanes, clamped, and riveted them in place. At this point I spread each vane to the edge of the support so their edge and the support edges were even. After doing this the vanes are in perfect position without having to measure. Then I siliconed the back side of each vane top and bottom to the interface of the supports and let them dry.

The end result is a substantially stronger and 3 dimensional peice for very little time and effort. I have seen the Finish Line vents and they are a work of art but I wanted to use what came with the kit as a starting point. If I had not done the improvement, I probably would not have used them. But after installing them, I think they look pretty good. The second main reason for the mod was to make the peice usable through removal and reinstalling for painting and other situations. I installed them per manual instructions with silicone. I have pics of the different steps and vents installed.

After seeing some threads about the quick jacks I did a few tweeks to change the look. In front I just reversed the peices like they were done for the FIAs. I did not like the way they protrude. I think it gives it a cleaner look. I will have to replace the bolts with threaded studs eventually to make it "correct" but that's it for now. In the rear, I could not reverse the jacks but was able to shorten the distance like on the originals (thanks Gumball for your pics). Here I did shorten the bolts and threaded them to simulate the original look. More work than I thought but worth it. I think eventually, I will replace the studs front and back with larger diameters and plates to make the jacks functional (another future mod).

Hey skull and bones, you wouldn't happen to have the dimensions and measurements of the flat piece of aluminum that you posted in your first picture? I think i might try fabbing my own louvers and have plenty of aluminum around the shop to practice.

[CraigS]

The nice thing about the FFR louvers is that they are way oversized. The problem I see w/ the other louvers is that you need to make the body opening fit the outer frame of the louver. Otherwise it doesn't look so great. I like your mod as it is still larger than the body opening so the shape and size of the opening is not critical.

[skullandbones]

Hey skull and bones, you wouldn't happen to have the dimensions and measurements of the flat piece of aluminum that you posted in your first picture? I think i might try fabbing my own louvers and have plenty of aluminum around the shop to practice.

Hey chiefshocker,

I have those dimensions in the first post of this thread (second paragraph). I had forgotten that I actually bent the aluminum instead of using some angle but the result would be the same either way. Good luck, WEK.

CraigS: wish all my projects worked out that well!!!

[skullandbones]

I will give you the same hint I did Mark (MPTech) cut the back of the key off, and drill new hole.

But he doesnt want to take my hint.

Rich grsc: I owe you an apology. Sorry I dismissed the suggestion without looking carefully. It turns out there was enough room if I cut the back off quite a bit. It isn't my favorite solution but it will allow me to lock the trunk when needed. I put my steering wheel in there if I am in an area I can not do surveillance on the car. I know it's paranoid but it makes me feel better. Anyway, it's a clever work around until I will be taking the bumper off for paint. Then I can lengthen the studs just a little to clear the whole key.

Thanks again,

WEK.

[Fred Yarema]

I glued on four flange bolts (1/4" S.S. bolt with a large 1 1/4" perforated head - available from McMaster-Carr) with fiberglass Bondo. Bolted the FFR louvers on directly. Powdercoating the louvers (I used silver) makes them look a whole lot less cheesey without spending a ton on stainless steel ones.

[Fred Yarema]

-as for the front splitter/bumper. I used aircraft teardrop streamline steel tubing - looks way cooler. Available from Wicks Aircraft Supply.

[skullandbones]

Fred,

Do you mind posting a pic of the splitter? I went to the website you mentioned. I only saw "short pcs in a box" offered for the streamline tubing. I would like to know what size you used.

Thanks,

WEK.

[christenfreedman]

FFR louvers are not nice...FFR is now selling the ********** version on their web store for $75

[skullandbones]

You're right about the louvers being sub standard in quality. It's one of those after thoughts that FFR had which makes you wonder how that would be included in a quality product but they have kept the price of the roadster at a reasonable price point. I see this as one more of those upgrades you do as you go along. I don't have mine in the final paint so this will be done (the ********** item) during that process. I have decided to paint them the body color. I have the FFR ones painted and they even look better that way.

Having fun!

WEK.

[skullandbones]

I'm having a break between body work sessions so I have gone back to the interior to see if I could livin' it up in there a little. So I tried my first attempt a "tooling" on the aluminum trans tunnel. I used a 2 inch scuffing pad on a grinder mandrel on my drill press. My son retrieved an old HB drill press for me that has a 15 1/2 inch depth adjustment so I was able to easily get the tunnel cover under the drill press chuck. I tried a few free hand passes on some aluminum and then thought better of that. I ended up using a 1 inch square grid for the accurate placement of the pad. I did my best to use the same pressure and duration to create the spun aluminum discs and overlapped them front to back and side to side. I probably spent 2 hours in all but much better than I expected. The drill press made all the difference in the world. I also have found that you can go over areas that are not quite right and redo sometimes if you are careful. I hae seen some surgically precision jobs on show cars and you wonder how they reach that perfection. This really took some of the sameness of the carpeted trans tunnel that you see a lot. I can't say I will leave it this way but I like it for now. I had to border the carpet but that didn't turn out as well as I liked so that will have to go to the experts for a redo during the summer. Also, discovered a trick from a new friend at a AZ Cobra ralley. He put aluminum diamond plate in the driver's foot box floor to replace the crawling carpet. I will do that as my next upgrade with a new accelerator pedal to top it off. Pics to follow.

Thanks,

WEK.

[skullandbones]

Had to get rid of one of those ugly donor items. It was the vapor canister. To tell you the truth, I didn't put much thought about it at first because I went by the manual and installed it early on. I expected it to work as an OEM system. Well it never did because my harness didn't accommodate the purge mechanism. So yesterday I fabbed a short clean version of the DIY vapor canister and a bracket to hold it back on the trunk side wall. The one I had on there was working OK but I couldn't stand it being on the car any longer. I'm having fun upgrading some of the "just do it" things on the initial build. So when someone says, "when will it be finished". You know that answer to that!

Thanks,

WEK.

[edwardb]

Had to get rid of one of those ugly donor items. It was the vapor canister. To tell you the truth, I didn't put much thought about it at first because I went by the manual and installed it early on. I expected it to work as an OEM system. Well it never did because my harness didn't accommodate the purge mechanism. So yesterday I fabbed a short clean version of the DIY vapor canister and a bracket to hold it back on the trunk side wall. The one I had on there was working OK but I couldn't stand it being on the car any longer. I'm having fun upgrading some of the "just do it" things on the initial build. So when someone says, "when will it be finished". You know that answer to that!

Thanks,

WEK.

Looks really good. I need to do something similar for my Mk4 build. Can you give more details about the canister you made? Actual parts used, etc.

[Jester]

Nice work - looks great!

[skullandbones]

No problem! I used regular 3 inch PVC for the tube (3.5 OD). The ends are plumbing inspection/clean out ports. There are a variety of types but I wanted the flat one (cross pattern) that are used for installing flush with the sheet rock and cover plate instead of the one with the "nut" on the end. You can use a screw driver to turn. I used silicone to connect them. The fittings are 90 degree 1/8 MIP x 3/8 Barb Nylon part# 19-9703 LASCO. I got activated aquarium charcoal (9 oz wt) and used about half of that in a 6 inch tube. I had to use sun screen material cut to fit the ends to contain the charcoal. Didn't have that nice little mesh bag that I've seen in some projects.

The bracket is 3/4 x 1/8 steel. I marked it at 1, 2, 5.25, 2, 1 increments after measuring against a hand drawn template. I bent the steel over the PVC then bent the steel at the first set of marks. I placed that on the drill press and drilled out holes large enough for the hose clamp. If you do that before cutting the hole, it will not allow the bend to be clean. Then bent it at the other marks to clear the curved portion and make the mounting flanges. I used the bracket to mark my holes from the inside of the trunk just above the 3/4 inch tube. I also drilled the 3/16 hole for the rivet from the inside just below the other holes. I did have to get Trish to help me by holding the T allen wrench on the inside while I tightened the nuts. BTW: I made the original too long and cut it down to a more reasonable size. So it is easy to access and reload the charcoal. As you can see I added the small bracket at the bottom to act as a stop so the band clamp would not carry the entire load. So far so good. No gas smells in the garage.

Thanks,

WEK.

[edwardb]

No problem! I used regular 3 inch PVC for the tube (3.5 OD). The ends are plumbing inspection/clean out ports. There are a variety of types but I wanted the flat one (cross pattern) that are used for installing flush with the sheet rock and cover plate instead of the one with the "nut" on the end. You can use a screw driver to turn. I used silicone to connect them. The fittings are 90 degree 1/8 MIP x 3/8 Barb Nylon part# 19-9703 LASCO. I got activated aquarium charcoal (9 oz wt) and used about half of that in a 6 inch tube. I had to use sun screen material cut to fit the ends to contain the charcoal. Didn't have that nice little mesh bag that I've seen in some projects.

The bracket is 3/4 x 1/8 steel. I marked it at 1, 2, 5.25, 2, 1 increments after measuring against a hand drawn template. I bent the steel over the PVC then bent the steel at the first set of marks. I placed that on the drill press and drilled out holes large enough for the hose clamp. If you do that before cutting the hole, it will not allow the bend to be clean. Then bent it at the other marks to clear the curved portion and make the mounting flanges. I used the bracket to mark my holes from the inside of the trunk just above the 3/4 inch tube. I also drilled the 3/16 hole for the rivet from the inside just below the other holes. I did have to get Trish to help me by holding the T allen wrench on the inside while I tightened the nuts. BTW: I made the original too long and cut it down to a more reasonable size. So it is easy to access and reload the charcoal. As you can see I added the small bracket at the bottom to act as a stop so the band clamp would not carry the entire load. So far so good. No gas smells in the garage. Thanks, WEK.

Thanks! Great info.

[skullandbones]

Cool! Glad you like it.

I don't know why but this was as satisfying in some ways as the more observable improvements. This component is buried so to speak but I still know it's there (that bothered me). I know the other DIY canisters are just as functional and I don't take any credit for the idea. I do appreciate the pioneers that think outside the box to give us all more options to choose from during our builds and afterwards. This was one that happened to be pretty easy on the pocket book. Can't always guarantee that, can we. WEK.

[skullandbones]

Decided I had to have a "dead pedal". At first I thought I didn't need one but it turned out that with the mods I did on the driver's side crash bar and the "mini mod" which gave my left foot an extra 1.5 inches to lean out, there was too much room! So I needed a place to plant my left foot when traveling on the freeway and also to rest it when I'm in between shifts (sort of a launching pad for the foot). I used some diamond plate 1/8 inch aluminum but it turns out it was a little too soft. I cut the shape with card board and then transferred to the aluminum and cut the shape out with my electric hand sheer. It's from HF. I think it's one of the best tools I've ever used. I've already used it to cut steel roofing and lots of aluminum. I know they aren't all good! But this one is.

It turned out that the shaping and bending the edges of the surface of the DP was not the hard part. I had to reinforce it lengthwise and across the top. Also, it's pretty tight in the driver's foot box so fitting included a few expletives. After creating a little "foot" for the pedal to rest against the forward vertical of the foot box, it was ready to mount. I secured it with some 3/16 rivets. There are a lot more consideration to account for than you would think like leaving room for the left part of your foot even though it is on the clutch. So there isn't as much clearance in there as you might think. I've included some pics of the template, cutout, reinforcements, mockup and installed pedal. I think I'm going to like it. If I don't I have enough aluminum to do it about 10 more times. It should be OK!

Thanks,

WEK.

[skullandbones]

I saw the dash support tubes on the FIAs and just love the look. I guess they are dash support. Actually, I don't know how the tubes are connected into the chassis on the originals. I saw one with a double set that went from the bottom of the dash to the top of the trans tunnel and another that was more or less parallel with those except further outboard and went from the dash to the floor. Anyway, I love it and have to have it. There is no functionality to it. But it looks tough. It really makes my interior look a little more racy, I think. Since I didn't want to get out the welder, I siliconed a washer and bolt in the end at the top and silconed the bottom to seal it. I had to go just a tad bit inboard more than I wanted due to electrical cables in the tunnel but I think I still got the essence of it. I used some rubber grommets to seal off the bottom hole in the tunnel as I don't have it carpeted. That's what I love about these projects. You can personalize them as much as you want. I also plan on using the supports for a Velcro temporary cup holder for my "Bubba" cup for longer trips. Permanent mounting is not kosher. See if you like it. WEK.