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Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
I finally got my axles together. What a mess. I ended up combining parts from about 5 axles to get the setup I wanted.
What a giant mess. The first CV I opened had a nice thick grease and I thought to myself this is going to be so much easier than usual. I let my guard down expecting the best and opened the next one which was full of green lava. All over everything, just like usual.
My advice for everyone, put down a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard where you are working, have a ton of rags and shop towels, have a large garbage can with a bag in it ready to go, several pairs of nitrile gloves and a set of work gloves that you are not emotionally attached to.
The actual assembly went super smooth. I didn't need a hose clamp to compress the snap ring, a flathead and my finger were enough.
I may touch up the paint but I'm happy for now, and can finally get rid of all these boxes of axle parts sitting around.
WP_20140417_003.jpg
My steering column and bump steer kit should be here by next Wednesday, the trailing arms and lateral links the week after.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 04-17-2014 at 08:46 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
My Baer tracker kit finally arrived. It is a very nice piece, I just rough fit it but it appears to have plenty of adjustment . Now I'm just waiting on Rori's spacer and this thing will finally steer!
If you are on the fence I think its $175 well spent if you are considering running at the lower ride height. my tie rod ends were toast anyway so it wasn't that big of a jump.. Subaru OEM outer tie rods are close to $50 each IIRC
WP_20140423_004.jpg
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
That looks pretty good indeed.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Shortening Your Steering Column 2.5-3" with Rori's Spacer
Rori's Spacer arrived today, bling bling
WP_20140425_002.jpg
The steering rack started at about 32.5 inches the spacer lets you shorten it by two inches. Using the closer hole in the frame you can reduce it by another half inch. If you are willing to drill two new holes, you can get another half out of it or 3" total.
The inner shaft can only be pressed about an inch before you are to the taper. You need to press the outer sleeve as well. Unfortunately my press is not tall enough to get the column under so I had to improvise.
I started by drilling a 4" deep 11/16 hole in a scrap of 2x4
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Mark your inner sleeve where it meets the outer sleeve at .5" increments so you will know how far you need to go. Put the end of the column on the floor on a block of wood to keep the threads from mushing. Using a 2.5lb hammer, first tap down the inner shaft the 1" you can go.
put your block over the shaft and tap the inner sleeve into the outer sleeve. I stopped at 1.5" but you can go another half.
Tap the inner shaft down to the correct length, for me it was 30" Remember, its a lot easier to shorten it then pull it back out.
Check that your length is correct and insert the column into the u joint
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bolt the spacer to the column and bolt it to the frame
WP_20140425_007.jpg
All in all a very nice piece that Rori has made. A little pricy but much nicer than a scrap of aluminum and I didn't have to donate any blood to install it. I may redrill two new holes to get an another half inch but i'll wait until I get my seats and see if i'm happy first.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 04-25-2014 at 07:09 PM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Will you have to notch the splines for the knuckle bolt? Or does it not change? I'm too lazy to go out and look at it in the garage.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
no, if you shorten it properly, everything lines up perfect with no notching needed.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Dude........ Where are you and where is the progress?
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
There's a few people that have disappeared.
LongIsland
Fate066
Mike Everson (though he reappeared and said he was busy)
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
I absolutely have been working on it. although nothing particularly unique or remarkable worthy of an update post. There are so many build threads now I was waiting until I came across something that I hadn't seen yet to update on.
I did modify the steering rack bracket to be able to bolt on top of the frame, I didn't like how it spaced down and then back up, it took a lot of grinding and a lot of time.
I decided on brakes and made a shopping list. I am going to be getting the hard coolant pipe kit. Mishimoto has a new direct bolt on shroud kit that has coolant tank mounts, and I stumbled across this beauty.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Moro...-Overflow-Tank
a little extra bling bling. I'll just use a universal in the back. It's really time to pay the piper.
It's been a busy summer.
My daily driver needed a lot of maintenance, timing belt water pump, oil change, exhaust gaskets etc. and a wash and wax. That was two weekends
The local Hyundai dealership tried to kill my wife and kids, (forgot to tighten/install the bolts that attach the front subframe to the car) I just happened to catch it because there was a miraculous coolant drip that made me to take the undertray off.
I've been spending a lot of time getting our house / backyard up to fierce party mode (my sisters wedding in two weeks - lots of out of town guests/parties)
Lots of yard work, Installed 150ft of stainless guide wire and attached party lights. I also added another 200 square feet to my deck, and a new fire pit.
fear not I will be back in full swing soon.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 08-04-2014 at 10:55 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
You don't need subframes. They just add weight to the regular frame.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Glad someone said something, I was wondering where they went as well.
Could be the project deal, there is a certain percentage that never get completed for one reason or another. Ask me how I know.
Haven't updated this thread yes, but disappeared? LOL 32 posts last month.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/searc...archid=1096890
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
It's hard to keep track of everyone now. "back in the day" when we had 5 build threads it was easy. Now, don't update your thread? Drops to page three by Monday afternoon. lol.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
speed holes not required. fierce updates coming soon!
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I was thinking to myself, what's the easiest way to get the holes symmetrical on both sides of the car? I clamped the two pieces together and re drilled all the holes.
perfect, except of course I forgot FFRs ill placed zip screw holes. Now I've got 2 extra holes. awesome. strength!
Last edited by longislandwrx; 10-27-2014 at 06:28 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I'm back at it!
I've got the rear suspension pretty much sorted out, a few of my bolts are too long so I need to order some shorter ones.
These MSI parts are so nice. Fitment and quality was top notch and they are plenty light. The trailing arms are impressively light.
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forgive the filthy ebrake cables, need to clean them this weekend.
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You can see the Whiteline KCA377 toe lock kit.. this eliminates the cam bolts when running at street height. (I decided to run at street height, after realizing it will be very difficult to get in and out of my driveway at R height. Nice fitment, worth $40? probably not but it did the trick and now I don't need to worry about the cam bolts spinning.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whit...-STI-2002-2007
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I inverted my shocks and there is not much clearance between the bracket bolt and the spring, I may end up running them normally, but I will wait until its on the ground.
inverted.JPG
next up I need to finish the brake lines to the rear and put the brakes on.
Hopefully it will be rolling by the end of the month.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 05-22-2015 at 06:59 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
The trailing arm is not adjustable... the caster is already adjustable with the top bar so I didn't think it needed it. Plus they are incredibly lightweight, which is more important to me than having the wheels centered in the wheel well. 3lbs lighter than stock.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
still dreaming of lightweight brakes... wondering how these would hold up at <1800lbs curb weight.
https://pandlmotorsports.com/shop/pl...ght-brake-kit/
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Why not spring for carbon rotors...
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
Agreed. They are not beefy enough to handle heat buildup. What if you were going down a mountain road with vigor, or even rapidly?
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
always a future (albeit expensive) option, there was a company that was toting "affordable" carbon rotors a while back, I wonder if they ever came to fruition
for now I don't have $16k to spend on off the shelf brakes. As mentioned in a previous post, Porsche takeoffs can sometime be found for a great deal, but I don't really want to put this project back on hold for 6 more months, waiting for the right price and machine work.
I was talking to Ty at P&L and asking if there was a off the shelf solid disk rotor that would fit the same aluminum bracket/caliper setup.
I like the idea of that brake kit more than the execution, but if there's a solid disk it may be an option, at 11.75 it honestly doesn't look much smaller than an 05 solid disc.
something like this..
http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorP...temno=160-3201
Last edited by longislandwrx; 05-26-2015 at 05:05 PM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
yeah but what about an 02-05 rear rotor, solid disc, http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cent...FYMSHwodEroAtg
that bad boy handled 3200lbs + 5 passengers.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
I am using AP 299mm 1.25 60 vane rotors front and rear and 4 pot AP calipesavings total
weight savings.
Don't forget the Smart ForTwo is slower that poop so it doesn't need much brakes.
I will refer to my conversation* with Ian Berwick who was at Alcon and did braking testing. He recommended that I use identical 13" rotors and four pots front and rear. That's almost exactly what Stoptech engineers recommended for me (I am using 328mm/28mm or 12.9"/1.1") and Stoptech went one step further by specifying a special piston combo for the ST40 calipers. So, front and rear calipers are not identical. BTW, when working with Stoptech Engineering I filled out an extensive data form with the 818R specs. I went through Zeckhausen Racing for them. Dave Z is a great guy to work with.
*The jist of the conversation was bigger is definitely better. While I may have added a pound or two I have gained in pedal feel, control and cooling potential. So says the expert and Stoptech agreed.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Last edited by longislandwrx; 05-27-2015 at 08:46 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
What I gave them to work with. Only error is I have a 17" rear wheel and tires are not that size.
stoptech worksheet_small.jpg
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Word to the wise, make sure you have the right hardware for the rear suspension before you put it all together.
The only thing worse than getting everything lined up and getting the bolts in is doing it twice.
I grabbed these, trailing arm to frame, M12 1.75x80 need two with nuts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261308374060...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
80s just make it to the end of the nut, 85s would be ideal if you could find them, 90s hit the frame...
and these, trailing arm to knuckle and front lateral link to frame, M12 1.75x70 need four with nuts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261853858443...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
again, only need two of the longer bolts but I'm sure they will get used.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 05-29-2015 at 07:20 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Tricky Rivets.
in the interest of making the front end removable I was planning on using rivnuts on the front square bar to attach the front side sheet metal.
there's a small section when it seems impossible to drill/rivet/rivnut, anyone figure out a creative solution for attaching this piece? I considered drilling all the way through from the other side, using the FFR provided low profile "tool"
the flap in question
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any other ideas?
also did anyone rivet to the crumple bars? to avoid rattles?
WP_20150830_001.jpg
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Really, rivets are removable. Dont kill yourself trying to do rivnuts everywhere. I have removed riveted panels easily with a 1/8" drill bit, then threw them back on in minutes with a handheld rivet gun.
That front portion has some black duct tape on it. You can't rivet it.
I don't hear anything on mine. Maybe because I have a helmet and no muffler.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-31-2015 at 11:07 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
it would only take 2 or 3 rivnuts on each side, I'm also in agreement about not adding 40 extra bolts to the car. I also considered using some industrial Velcro on that little piece
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
I riveted to the crumple bars (as I recall, just a single rivet on each side) because of the racket the panels were making as I drove around city streets. They are nice and quiet now.
Thanks guys. I will run one small bolt through the crumple bar.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 08-31-2015 at 03:17 PM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.