longislandwrx/Insert Cool Nickname Here Build Thread

[FFRSpec72]

Many of the donors as you would expect have non Subaru aftermarket CV / axles and don't work with the FFR supplies axles I had what looked like OEM axles, but it turns out they are not.

OK, mine seemed to assemble according to manual and no issues, so I assume I'm good to go and my donor CV/axles were OK (they were green but I guess some of the aftermarkets were also)

[longislandwrx]

I finally got my axles together. What a mess. I ended up combining parts from about 5 axles to get the setup I wanted.

What a giant mess. The first CV I opened had a nice thick grease and I thought to myself this is going to be so much easier than usual. I let my guard down expecting the best and opened the next one which was full of green lava. All over everything, just like usual.

My advice for everyone, put down a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard where you are working, have a ton of rags and shop towels, have a large garbage can with a bag in it ready to go, several pairs of nitrile gloves and a set of work gloves that you are not emotionally attached to.

The actual assembly went super smooth. I didn't need a hose clamp to compress the snap ring, a flathead and my finger were enough.

I may touch up the paint but I'm happy for now, and can finally get rid of all these boxes of axle parts sitting around.

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My steering column and bump steer kit should be here by next Wednesday, the trailing arms and lateral links the week after.

[longislandwrx]

My Baer tracker kit finally arrived. It is a very nice piece, I just rough fit it but it appears to have plenty of adjustment . Now I'm just waiting on Rori's spacer and this thing will finally steer!

If you are on the fence I think its $175 well spent if you are considering running at the lower ride height. my tie rod ends were toast anyway so it wasn't that big of a jump.. Subaru OEM outer tie rods are close to $50 each IIRC

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[Frank818]

That looks pretty good indeed.

[longislandwrx]

Shortening Your Steering Column 2.5-3" with Rori's Spacer

Rori's Spacer arrived today, bling bling
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The steering rack started at about 32.5 inches the spacer lets you shorten it by two inches. Using the closer hole in the frame you can reduce it by another half inch. If you are willing to drill two new holes, you can get another half out of it or 3" total.

The inner shaft can only be pressed about an inch before you are to the taper. You need to press the outer sleeve as well. Unfortunately my press is not tall enough to get the column under so I had to improvise.

I started by drilling a 4" deep 11/16 hole in a scrap of 2x4

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Mark your inner sleeve where it meets the outer sleeve at .5" increments so you will know how far you need to go. Put the end of the column on the floor on a block of wood to keep the threads from mushing. Using a 2.5lb hammer, first tap down the inner shaft the 1" you can go.

put your block over the shaft and tap the inner sleeve into the outer sleeve. I stopped at 1.5" but you can go another half.
Tap the inner shaft down to the correct length, for me it was 30" Remember, its a lot easier to shorten it then pull it back out.

Check that your length is correct and insert the column into the u joint

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bolt the spacer to the column and bolt it to the frame

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All in all a very nice piece that Rori has made. A little pricy but much nicer than a scrap of aluminum and I didn't have to donate any blood to install it. I may redrill two new holes to get an another half inch but i'll wait until I get my seats and see if i'm happy first.

[C.Plavan]

Will you have to notch the splines for the knuckle bolt? Or does it not change? I'm too lazy to go out and look at it in the garage.

[longislandwrx]

no, if you shorten it properly, everything lines up perfect with no notching needed.

[C.Plavan]

Dude........ Where are you and where is the progress?

[Mechie3]

There's a few people that have disappeared.

LongIsland
Fate066
Mike Everson (though he reappeared and said he was busy)

[longislandwrx]

I absolutely have been working on it. although nothing particularly unique or remarkable worthy of an update post. There are so many build threads now I was waiting until I came across something that I hadn't seen yet to update on.

I did modify the steering rack bracket to be able to bolt on top of the frame, I didn't like how it spaced down and then back up, it took a lot of grinding and a lot of time.
I decided on brakes and made a shopping list. I am going to be getting the hard coolant pipe kit. Mishimoto has a new direct bolt on shroud kit that has coolant tank mounts, and I stumbled across this beauty.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Moro...-Overflow-Tank
a little extra bling bling. I'll just use a universal in the back. It's really time to pay the piper.

It's been a busy summer.

My daily driver needed a lot of maintenance, timing belt water pump, oil change, exhaust gaskets etc. and a wash and wax. That was two weekends

The local Hyundai dealership tried to kill my wife and kids, (forgot to tighten/install the bolts that attach the front subframe to the car) I just happened to catch it because there was a miraculous coolant drip that made me to take the undertray off.

I've been spending a lot of time getting our house / backyard up to fierce party mode (my sisters wedding in two weeks - lots of out of town guests/parties)

Lots of yard work, Installed 150ft of stainless guide wire and attached party lights. I also added another 200 square feet to my deck, and a new fire pit.

fear not I will be back in full swing soon.

[Mechie3]

You don't need subframes. They just add weight to the regular frame.

[Frank818]

There's a few people that have disappeared.

LongIsland
Fate066
Mike Everson (though he reappeared and said he was busy)

Rasmus as well.

[Brando]

Glad someone said something, I was wondering where they went as well.

[D Clary]

Could be the project deal, there is a certain percentage that never get completed for one reason or another. Ask me how I know.

[longislandwrx]

There's a few people that have disappeared.

LongIsland

Haven't updated this thread yes, but disappeared? LOL 32 posts last month.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/searc...archid=1096890

[Mechie3]

It's hard to keep track of everyone now. "back in the day" when we had 5 build threads it was easy. Now, don't update your thread? Drops to page three by Monday afternoon. lol.

[longislandwrx]

speed holes not required. fierce updates coming soon!

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I was thinking to myself, what's the easiest way to get the holes symmetrical on both sides of the car? I clamped the two pieces together and re drilled all the holes.

perfect, except of course I forgot FFRs ill placed zip screw holes. Now I've got 2 extra holes. awesome. strength!

[longislandwrx]

I'm back at it!

I've got the rear suspension pretty much sorted out, a few of my bolts are too long so I need to order some shorter ones.

These MSI parts are so nice. Fitment and quality was top notch and they are plenty light. The trailing arms are impressively light.

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forgive the filthy ebrake cables, need to clean them this weekend.

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You can see the Whiteline KCA377 toe lock kit.. this eliminates the cam bolts when running at street height. (I decided to run at street height, after realizing it will be very difficult to get in and out of my driveway at R height. Nice fitment, worth $40? probably not but it did the trick and now I don't need to worry about the cam bolts spinning.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whit...-STI-2002-2007

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I inverted my shocks and there is not much clearance between the bracket bolt and the spring, I may end up running them normally, but I will wait until its on the ground.

inverted.JPG

next up I need to finish the brake lines to the rear and put the brakes on.


Hopefully it will be rolling by the end of the month.

[Frank818]

I'm back at it!
Hopefully it will be rolling by the end of the month.

No updates in 7 months and you'll still roll it just faster than I will.

I really like your MSI parts! I think I should have gone with those, are you the only one running these on the forum?

Is it me or the trailing arm is not adjustable?

[longislandwrx]

The trailing arm is not adjustable... the caster is already adjustable with the top bar so I didn't think it needed it. Plus they are incredibly lightweight, which is more important to me than having the wheels centered in the wheel well. 3lbs lighter than stock.

[longislandwrx]

still dreaming of lightweight brakes... wondering how these would hold up at <1800lbs curb weight.



https://pandlmotorsports.com/shop/pl...ght-brake-kit/

[Wayne Presley]

Why not spring for carbon rotors...

[JeromeS13]

still dreaming of lightweight brakes... wondering how these would hold up at <1800lbs curb weight.



https://pandlmotorsports.com/shop/pl...ght-brake-kit/

Don't do it. Those things won't handle ANY heat. They don't even recommend driving them on the street...

[Scargo]

Agreed. They are not beefy enough to handle heat buildup. What if you were going down a mountain road with vigor, or even rapidly?

[longislandwrx]

Why not spring for carbon rotors...

always a future (albeit expensive) option, there was a company that was toting "affordable" carbon rotors a while back, I wonder if they ever came to fruition
for now I don't have $16k to spend on off the shelf brakes. As mentioned in a previous post, Porsche takeoffs can sometime be found for a great deal, but I don't really want to put this project back on hold for 6 more months, waiting for the right price and machine work.

Don't do it. Those things won't handle ANY heat. They don't even recommend driving them on the street...

I was talking to Ty at P&L and asking if there was a off the shelf solid disk rotor that would fit the same aluminum bracket/caliper setup.

I like the idea of that brake kit more than the execution, but if there's a solid disk it may be an option, at 11.75 it honestly doesn't look much smaller than an 05 solid disc.

something like this..

http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorP...temno=160-3201

[JeromeS13]

always a future (albeit expensive) option, there was a company that was toting "affordable" carbon rotors a while back, I wonder if they ever came to fruition

It



I was talking to Ty at P&L and asking if there was a off the shelf solid disk rotor that would fit the same aluminum bracket/caliper setup.

I like the idea of that brake kit more than the execution, but if there's a solid disk it may be an option, at 11.75 it honestly doesn't look much smaller than an 05 solid disc.

something like this..

http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorP...temno=160-3201

It may be comparable in diameter, but this rotor is only 8.89 mm thick? That's only 1/3 of the thickness of an 02-05 WRX front rotor.

[longislandwrx]

It may be comparable in diameter, but this rotor is only 8.89 mm thick? That's only 1/3 of the thickness of an 02-05 WRX front rotor.

yeah but what about an 02-05 rear rotor, solid disc, http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cent...FYMSHwodEroAtg

that bad boy handled 3200lbs + 5 passengers.

[JeromeS13]

yeah but what about an 02-05 rear rotor, solid disc, http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cent...FYMSHwodEroAtg

that bad boy handled 3200lbs + 5 passengers.

Yes, but only ~ 30% of that load was on the rear rotors?

But, then again, a Smart ForTwo has a 297mmx9.5mm front rotor....

[longislandwrx]

Yes, but only ~ 30% of that load was on the rear rotors?

But, then again, a Smart ForTwo has a 297mmx9.5mm front rotor....

This would be just for the rear, the fronts would still get full size vented 4 pot brakes.

[JeromeS13]

This would be just for the rear, the fronts would still get full size vented 4 pot brakes.

Oooooh. Haha. That would make more sense. Disregard. haha

[Mitch Wright]

I am using AP 299mm 1.25 60 vane rotors front and rear and 4 pot AP calipesavings total
weight savings.

[Scargo]

Don't forget the Smart ForTwo is slower that poop so it doesn't need much brakes.
I will refer to my conversation* with Ian Berwick who was at Alcon and did braking testing. He recommended that I use identical 13" rotors and four pots front and rear. That's almost exactly what Stoptech engineers recommended for me (I am using 328mm/28mm or 12.9"/1.1") and Stoptech went one step further by specifying a special piston combo for the ST40 calipers. So, front and rear calipers are not identical. BTW, when working with Stoptech Engineering I filled out an extensive data form with the 818R specs. I went through Zeckhausen Racing for them. Dave Z is a great guy to work with.

*The jist of the conversation was bigger is definitely better. While I may have added a pound or two I have gained in pedal feel, control and cooling potential. So says the expert and Stoptech agreed.

[longislandwrx]

I am using AP 299mm 1.25 60 vane rotors front and rear and 4 pot AP calipesavings total
weight savings.

huh? I imagine the calipers are lightweight, but does it still use the factory style ebrake hat?

Don't forget the Smart ForTwo is slower that poop so it doesn't need much brakes.
I will refer to my conversation* with Ian Berwick who was at Alcon and did braking testing. He recommended that I use identical 13" rotors and four pots front and rear. That's almost exactly what Stoptech engineers recommended for me (I am using 328mm/28mm or 12.9"/1.1") and Stoptech went one step further by specifying a special piston combo for the ST40 calipers. So, front and rear calipers are not identical. BTW, when working with Stoptech Engineering I filled out an extensive data form with the 818R specs. I went through Zeckhausen Racing for them. Dave Z is a great guy to work with.

*The jist of the conversation was bigger is definitely better. While I may have added a pound or two I have gained in pedal feel, control and cooling potential. So says the expert and Stoptech agreed.

thank you for this... I would be interested as to how they came up with this. It's nice to have someone do the math for you.

[Scargo]

What I gave them to work with. Only error is I have a 17" rear wheel and tires are not that size.
stoptech worksheet_small.jpg

[longislandwrx]

Word to the wise, make sure you have the right hardware for the rear suspension before you put it all together.

The only thing worse than getting everything lined up and getting the bolts in is doing it twice.

I grabbed these, trailing arm to frame, M12 1.75x80 need two with nuts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261308374060...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

80s just make it to the end of the nut, 85s would be ideal if you could find them, 90s hit the frame...

and these, trailing arm to knuckle and front lateral link to frame, M12 1.75x70 need four with nuts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261853858443...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

again, only need two of the longer bolts but I'm sure they will get used.

[longislandwrx]

Tricky Rivets.

in the interest of making the front end removable I was planning on using rivnuts on the front square bar to attach the front side sheet metal.

there's a small section when it seems impossible to drill/rivet/rivnut, anyone figure out a creative solution for attaching this piece? I considered drilling all the way through from the other side, using the FFR provided low profile "tool"

the flap in question

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any other ideas?

also did anyone rivet to the crumple bars? to avoid rattles?

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[C.Plavan]

Really, rivets are removable. Dont kill yourself trying to do rivnuts everywhere. I have removed riveted panels easily with a 1/8" drill bit, then threw them back on in minutes with a handheld rivet gun.

That front portion has some black duct tape on it. You can't rivet it.

I don't hear anything on mine. Maybe because I have a helmet and no muffler.

[longislandwrx]

it would only take 2 or 3 rivnuts on each side, I'm also in agreement about not adding 40 extra bolts to the car. I also considered using some industrial Velcro on that little piece

[Buzz Skyline]

I riveted to the crumple bars (as I recall, just a single rivet on each side) because of the racket the panels were making as I drove around city streets. They are nice and quiet now.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks guys. I will run one small bolt through the crumple bar.