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Thread: NRG Innovations parts for the 818

  1. #41
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    F5 removed the triangle piece on the stock mirrors to get them to look good... they then mounted only the mirror on flat stock braces. Those CF ones are 1 piece, not sure how they will match up in the windshield area. Remember how they were kind of chopped off on the SEMA car?

  2. #42
    Junior Member randy808's Avatar
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    racinglab_2270_341915560.jpgwhat do you guys think about this set up? Can you get this as well?

  3. #43
    Senior Member Zodiac's Avatar
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    nice steering wheel. I've been looking at a bunch but I would like to keep the airbag and kind find any aftermarket ones which still use one. Also if anyone knows anything about the harness? I've been reading a lot and I know you need to make sure you install it properly in height and everything but I've been seeing a lot that they aren't recommended if you're using it for daily driving. Should I stick with the stock seatbelt if I plan to daily drive this and just track it a few times a year?

  4. #44
    Junior Member wildbill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
    nice steering wheel. I've been looking at a bunch but I would like to keep the airbag and kind find any aftermarket ones which still use one. Also if anyone knows anything about the harness? I've been reading a lot and I know you need to make sure you install it properly in height and everything but I've been seeing a lot that they aren't recommended if you're using it for daily driving. Should I stick with the stock seatbelt if I plan to daily drive this and just track it a few times a year?
    I'm just curious how the airbag is activated?.....

  5. #45
    Senior Member SkiRideDrive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randy808 View Post
    racinglab_2270_341915560.jpgwhat do you guys think about this set up? Can you get this as well?
    This setup looks nice. One thing I was just thinking about: since the wheel mount may have been designed with the wrx seats in mind, what happens when you bolt a race bucket to the floor of the chassis? Will the wheel be mounted far too high? And will this be an easy fix?
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  6. #46
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randy808 View Post
    racinglab_2270_341915560.jpgwhat do you guys think about this set up? Can you get this as well?

    Sure, I can get any NRG stuff you need. As far as the seat/wheel relationship, I felt like the stock seat would be to high when I saw it at SEMA. The only time I've sat in the car is with the GTM seats which are floor buckets and the wheel felt right and there was plenty of room to get into the seat rather than having to slide under the wheel. The seats will have some adjustment in the brackets in them as well.

  7. #47
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    you're not gonna want to use the airbag. the sensors for deployment are pretty specific to the car they were designed for. (not an 818) the harnesses and rollcage are better than the airbag anyway. when's the last time you saw an airbag in a racecar? the harnesses will also keep you down in the seat so that the rollbars can do their job.
    Last edited by carbon fiber; 07-12-2013 at 04:50 PM.

  8. #48
    Senior Member Zodiac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbon fiber View Post
    you're not gonna want to use the airbag. the sensors for deployment are pretty specific to the car they were designed for. (not an 818) the harnesses and rollcage are better than the airbag anyway. when's the last time you saw an airbag in a racecar?
    ah ok i didn't even think about them being so specefic to a car. and yea i know the harness will be better for the track but since 95% of my time I'm gonna be daily driving and I read about them not being intended for daily use I wasn't sure if I should get one or not. Looking at the NRG 4 point camlock version

  9. #49
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    I've got harnesses in all my cars. you get used to them. I feel like I don't have any protection when wearing a regular seat belt after using harnesses for so long. really keeps you in the seat when you're at the track too.

  10. #50
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    Any thoughts on what mounts to use for aftermarkets seats?

  11. #51
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    I use side mounts on composite seats, but they are non- adjustable. (without removing bolts) they keep the seat as low as possible though.

  12. #52
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive View Post
    This setup looks nice. One thing I was just thinking about: since the wheel mount may have been designed with the wrx seats in mind, what happens when you bolt a race bucket to the floor of the chassis? Will the wheel be mounted far too high? And will this be an easy fix?
    Can the steering column be height adjustable?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  13. #53
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I agree with carbon kevlar guy, for years I used a 4-point harness in a car I was driving many times a week. The harness was keeping me in place much better than the stock belt, I felt more secured. When I came back to the oem belt, I had a bad feeling. You really get used to it and it's a tidy longer to attach and clip. But the feeling is nice.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #54
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    You have to be extremely careful if you're using aftermarket seatbelts. Most 4 point belts are not designed properly, and can actually cause more harm than good in instance of a front impact (due to no anti-submarine belt). If you're going to run a stock-ish seat, maintain the stock seatbelt. If you're using a good quality aftermarket bucket seat, use a 5 or 6 point, properly installed harness. If you unsure about the proper installation of a harness, you can download and review the NASA CCR's (para 15.5) located at http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf. These should be followed ANYTIME, especially when using them for daily driving.

  15. #55
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Why 4-point wouldn't be good in a bucket seat designed to accept 4-5-6-point?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Why 4-point wouldn't be good in a bucket seat designed to accept 4-5-6-point?
    In the event of a crash, you could slide under and out of the harness. There are very few properly designed 4point belts out there.

  17. #57
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah that's what I thought. But then again, a 3-point OEM belt isn't any better, you could also slide under and out.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #58
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    This is actually a pretty decent article on safety belts. (Disregard the picture below section 5... That harness is NOT properly installed and would actually compress the spine in an accident...)

    http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2013/02...ing-harnesses/
    Last edited by JeromeS13; 07-12-2013 at 06:08 PM.

  19. #59
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yes, pretty interesting, a lot of comparisons. I'll surely now take that into account and will read it carefully.

    I don't want to have an accident. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  20. #60
    Senior Member SkiRideDrive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehansen007 View Post
    Sure, I can get any NRG stuff you need. As far as the seat/wheel relationship, I felt like the stock seat would be to high when I saw it at SEMA. The only time I've sat in the car is with the GTM seats which are floor buckets and the wheel felt right and there was plenty of room to get into the seat rather than having to slide under the wheel. The seats will have some adjustment in the brackets in them as well.
    Thanks for chiming in. That is good to hear.
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  21. #61
    Member Slatt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Can the steering column be height adjustable?
    A look at some chassis photos makes it appear the factory height adjustment is still there.

  22. #62
    Senior Member SkiRideDrive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slatt View Post
    A look at some chassis photos makes it appear the factory height adjustment is still there.
    Would that be retained with a race wheel and hub? I am assuming yes but not how the adjuster is arranged.
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  23. #63
    Member Slatt's Avatar
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    The height adjustment for 2003 has a locking lever on the left of the column below the controls stalk. The actual clamping is part of the same bracket assembly which bolts to the 818 frame. It is all well forward of the hub. So ya, I think you are good to go.

    Here's a link to a picture by longislandwrx from the open house. http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mac...tml?sort=3&o=7
    Last edited by Slatt; 07-12-2013 at 11:46 PM.

  24. #64
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    If it is height adjustable, that may help quite a lot.

    I guess Erik and Wayne can confirm that soon.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  25. #65
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    It will be height adjustable. Just pulled my steering column 20 mins ago...

  26. #66
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    Forgive my ignorance, what is required to use one of the steering wheels? Do you simply remove the air bag portion to get to the nut on the steering column and remove the factory one, leaving the thicker portion with the levers and controls on it?

    EDIT: after watching some videos on youtube, I'd suspect that one would remove the old steering wheel, perhaps install an adapter if it wasn't made for the Impreza/WRX, then install a new one. The only problem for me is that I can't get my steering wheel off to see what it would be like. I found steering wheel pullers on amazon. I guess I'll wait until I have the steering stuff on the actual kit car, try again, and get a steering wheel puller if I need to.
    Last edited by mspice; 07-14-2013 at 08:34 PM.

  27. #67
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    You'll need the adapter for sure. The wheel just comes off with a simple puller ($10 at Pep Boys) once the airbag is removed CAREFULLY!. From the base of the wheel where it buts against the column to the grip is about 4 1/2" So you could do an adapter, quick release, and a wheel and be right there. Or just the adapter to a 3" dish wheel, etc. They have a lot of different options.

  28. #68
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    Just received my Gen 2.5 quick release and short hub. Initial impressions are great, I'll provide more details when I have time to install it. I bought these through ehansen007 and it was a great experience! He was great to work with and very timely/helpful. I highly recommend anyone wanting NRG parts to utilize him. Just make sure you have enough $$$ in your Paypal account. I had to pay with a credit card through Paypal which slaps him with the fees and kind of screws him. Sorry again!

  29. #69
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    oh sweet...one of those came on my donor..the other one was ripped off when it flipped...price please?
    Let's make sure they will fit first. As on other member said, it looks like they changed the mount. Bummer I hope I can still figure something out because they look great.

  30. #70
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Just a quick note about Paypal. If you use a bank account as your funding source - rather than a credit card - you avoid all kinds of fees and limits. Paypal doesn't advertise this, nor do they make it easy to set up (because people using credit cards as a funding source generates profit for them, whereas a bank account funding source does not), but you can do it. It's been a while since I did it, but I think the process takes about an hour of total time to complete spread over 3 days (most at the beginning).

  31. #71
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Fees for the seller?
    Cuz I (buyer) don't pay fees when I use my credit card as the funding source. I get charged the amount of what I bought (+ I pay a margin on the exchange rate when I buy in a different currency, but I've never heard the seller being charged if I use my credit card as the source).
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  32. #72
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Yes, the CC fee is on the seller's side (hence the apology above). The amount depends on the type of account the seller has. Typically, a personal account allows a seller to receive a small number of payments funded with a CC. After that, the fees kick in, and they can really cut into the typically smaller margins of the "home" seller. You can upgrade to a business account, of course, but then you are paying fees on that. If you sell a lot of things, it's worth looking into because it can be cheaper.

    My thought was that if I let people know, we could keep the costs low for everyone (seller can have a personal Paypal account, buyer can use bank account for funding). Everyone wins.

  33. #73
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    Yeah, in this case I'm not making much on this stuff and because the buyer used a CC through Paypal, Payal has to pay the fees and they pass them onto me. So the fees were half of my profit. It's okay, I didn't tell him so it's my fault. I'll always give you guys the best price I can and we can arrange payment by check, paypal (funded by bank account), livestock, etc. Just let me know what you need and I'll get it for you.

  34. #74
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Well I just learned something... tnx for the heads up.

    Actually ehansen007 I do need something. I need a buyer for my car to finance part of the 818 project, can you get that for me? lolll Kidding.
    Last edited by Frank818; 07-18-2013 at 06:28 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  35. #75
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    As a buyer using Paypal you are safest using CC as funding source. You then have 2 companies backing you when dispute arises. Also you are best off only dealing with verified seller or buyer & only shipping to verified address. Just general safety rules. Paypal has also started charging you for giving "gift" too many people cheating them so just don't bother they get 3% from someone.

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