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Thread: THE Audio System Thread

  1. #81
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    this thread is a year old!!!! any updates from you that have finished your builds?
    I'm looking for a good head unit (for convenience of easy accessability) but basically using my Iphone for music. Good all around sound, with sub.

    Any more recent updates or ideas? One of the new Sony systems seems to have good bluetooth compatability and reviews are favorable.
    I would rather hear from someone who has done it and likes the sound.
    I've purchased my headunit (A single DIN Sony DSX210X) and small digital amp (Alpine KTP-445U), but nothing's installed yet. I didn't get the Bluetooth version, as I prefer to load up a USB stick and leave it in the stereo, so it's independent.

    I now know I don't have space behind my seats for a sub and I'm waiting to get speakers until I'm further along. I'll definitely get component speakers with tweeters in the dash and woofers down in the kickpanels.

  2. #82
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    I'm thinking of putting two speakers in the front of the center console. Would simplify wiring.
    Nolan
    65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

    818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)

  3. #83
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nkw8181 View Post
    I'm thinking of putting two speakers in the front of the center console. Would simplify wiring.
    That would be a good location for a sub or bass module, if you can find one that will fit, but I prefer my music in stereo (not mono) which means left speaker on my left and right on my right! Compared to modifying the donor harness, wiring up a couple speakers to go to the sides is pretty easy!

  4. #84
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Not finished yet, but my system is:

    Rockford Fosgate P165-S 6.5" Component speakers
    Rockford Fosgate F300X2 Amp mounted under dash w/remote level control
    iStreamer mounted under dash
    iPad Mini mounted in custom mount in dash
    A sub is yet to be determined, but if I do one, I think it will be a flat one, firing down, under the dash.

    Larry

  5. #85
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    I will be permanently mounting a Samsung Galaxy Tab 4, 7" in the console. This will connect to http://www.outofsightaudio.com/ or the Kicker Bluetooth or something else. I may look for something hardwired.

    The plan is to then run DashCommand as well.

    If I can run audio through direct connection, then I can run DashCommand Bluetooth.

    This will allow me to read email through a wi-fi connection while driving on the track. iDrive.jpg Never on the street. Seriously though, I'd like to save Wi-Fi for GPS navigation.

    This would give me three functions on the tablet. A backup camera would also be nice considering the visibility. I don't have an answer for that yet.

    Travis
    Last edited by thall818; 12-04-2014 at 07:38 PM.
    818S - #200

    "To finish first, you must first finish"
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley
    "Never run out of real estate, ideas and traction at the same time."

  6. #86
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    Stereo mock up

    A few changes, but it works great. First, I dropped the out of sight audio. Went with an LC2i as a signal conditioner/crossover. I'm coming out of the headphone jack on my Galaxy tab so the signal needs to be converted from high to low. The LC2i then gives me sub pre-outs and mid/high pre-outs.

    I have the mids going to an Alpine amp and over to two door speakers.

    The low pass goes to a Rockville 10" self powered low profile sub to go under the dash pointing at the passengers feet.

    The LC2i should see the signal from the Galaxy and turn on automatically. I haven't gotten that to work yet, but worst case I mount an on/off switch.

    The sub also has remote bass adjustment. I'd like the subwoofer to be easy to remove, as it's 15lbs. A quick disconnect/mount would make it nice for track days.

    Few more hurdles to jump and I should be there.StereoDemo.JPG
    818S - #200

    "To finish first, you must first finish"
    "If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow." -Ross Bentley
    "Never run out of real estate, ideas and traction at the same time."

  7. #87
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    Thought I would revive this old thread from the dead now that I finally installed my sound system.

    First of all, do yourself a favor and install during the build. What a pain (literally, my back hurts and I think I bruised a couple ribs while cramming myself upside down into the footwells).

    Anyway, I tucked a bluetooth amp up above the passenger footwell and wired to a pair of 5 1/4" speakers in the kick panels....and that's it. No head unit. Only visible parts of the system are the speakers and a switch that I put in one of the blanks available in the Subaru center console. Plays music directly from the phone (Pandora, Amazon prime music, etc).

    I was able to utilize previously vacated fuse for power (20 amp fuse that used to be the supply for the ABS) and various wiring that had been previously dieted from the donor. I wouldn't advise this with a higher powered amp, but with this light duty combo, it worked out perfectly.

    Here is the amp: Pyle PLMRA410BT Elite Series Waterproof Bluetooth Amplifier (400 Watt 4-Channel Marine Amp)
    http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRA410B.../dp/B00WR6ZX4I

    Speakers:
    http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-41DSC54.../dp/B00I2YX1KW

    Switch:
    http://www.amazon.com/Motorsports%C2.../dp/B00K6DAR7M

    Drove it on this highway this morning and worked perfectly.

  8. #88

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I installed an Infinity PRV-250 with four Polk DB401 4" Coaxial Speakers in my MK-4. The head unit is MP3, USB and Bluetooth compatible with peak power of 200 watts or 4 channels at 50 watts each. Everything is weather/water resistant since the MK-4 is an open topper. I got everything from ROCK THE BOAT AUDIO and it was inexpensive and what I needed. The head unit is only about 2" deep so it is pretty shallow from a mounting perspective.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-14-2016 at 03:24 PM.

  9. #89
    Moonlight Performance
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    Quote Originally Posted by billjr212 View Post
    Thought I would revive this old thread from the dead now that I finally installed my sound system.
    Thanks for that... had no idea about blue tooth amps and they seem perfect. Who needs a head unit in 2014? I never use any of mine in the other cars I have except to connect to my phone via blue tooth to play music.

  10. #90

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Thanks for that... had no idea about blue tooth amps and they seem perfect. Who needs a head unit in 2014? I never use any of mine in the other cars I have except to connect to my phone via blue tooth to play music.
    I just wanted something that could get wet just in case.

  11. #91
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Thanks for that... had no idea about blue tooth amps and they seem perfect. Who needs a head unit in 2014? I never use any of mine in the other cars I have except to connect to my phone via blue tooth to play music.
    No problem. I was pretty excited as I had never heard of them either and just stumbled on it on Amazon while looking at regular amplifiers. Doesn't seem like they are all that common yet, but there are a few reasonable options out there. Just have to search them out.

    I had fully planned to go with a regular head unit, but I'm really enjoying the clean look of the dash without one and figured I can always add it later and just run it to the amp. I just need to come up with a good way to mount my phone within reach and I will be all set (I just drop it in the cup holder for now).

  12. #92
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    I, as usual, went a different direction and put in a Pioneer 7000 with Apple Car Play. I've only done 130 miles but like it so far.
    console front 75.jpg
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  13. #93
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Any issues with the Car Play? I was planning to try to run without a head unit, just bluetooth to the phone, but I really would like to have FM and haven't been able to figure out how to add that without a screen (trying an Arduino tuner that I would control from the phone this weekend). If I'm going to add a screen, then I keep thinking the new car play options look good, and it would be a lot simpler than writing code.
    -Steve

  14. #94
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    I'm going CarPlay also. Still in the getting it installed phase but I've liked what amount I've used it in other cars. For me it was it checked off a few boxes.

  15. #95
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    Red face minaminalist approch

    I'm on the wiring phase... thought i'd share my minimalist full sound system setup!

    I got the mini amp idea from wleehendrick and expanded on it. I choose to use mostly JL pieces because I was able to get the Amp(discontinued-usual for JL Audio) and Bluetooth receiver(sale), both at a discount. The sub was from my dune buggy that I never used. It is and 8" small guy. All of these parts have water resistance/proof rating which is a plus as the car will never be sealed perfectly even though seeing rain will be null. The speakers are undecided, as I need some help.


    Amp-4 channel or 3 channel(can bridge the 2 rears for a sub)
    http://www.jlaudio.com/hx280-4-car-a...plifiers-98401
    Bluetooth receiver with buttons
    http://www.jlaudio.com/mbt-crx-marin...receiver-91127

    Cheaper receiver option(would be hidden and all functions controlled via phone)
    http://www.jlaudio.com/mbt-rx-marine...receiver-91126

    Polk Audio MM840
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM84...6653425&awdv=c

    How it works-
    The switched ignition sends a signal to the amp and bluetooth to turn on when you turn on the car. The Bluetooth then auto connects to your phone and you select your music(downloaded music, Pandora, etc) and then from there you can skip tracks and adjust volume all from a little unit on the dash. The bluetooth outputs to the amp which goes to the speaker and sub. Pretty simple and low weight for a sports car.

    A few questions for the guys that are further along then I am...
    1) As I have a coupe, what are the best locations for component speakers, kick panels? 5.25" 's?
    2) Is it okay to place the sub in the general area as it is in the picture, if not, whats good? (I plan on fiber glassing a small enclosure for the sub. specs suggest .35cuft optimal)
    3) Won't that kick panel get really hot!? Can't imagine that's good for a speaker


    Something similar to this job I did on the dune buggy. Basically I took a triangle piece of thin plywood with a speaker hole cut into it and layered a plastic tub yogurt container upside down on it. Then I stretched felt across it and stapled it. Impregnated resin into the felt. Pulled out yogurt container when dry. I believe I also put a layer of fiberglass over the felt for a 2nd structural coat.(sub will require a few more layers) Some bondo and paint, and that was it. super light.


    Weight-
    Amp 2.5 lbs
    Bluetooth .4 lbs
    Sub 10.0 lbs
    Components ~4.5 lbs?
    Sub enclosure ~2.0 lbs? (no bondo)
    Total 19.4 lbs est (8.80 kilos for you metric guys )
    Last edited by carrera1984; 09-15-2016 at 09:14 AM.

  16. #96
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrera1984 View Post
    I'm on the wiring phase... thought i'd share my minimalist full sound system setup!

    I got the mini amp idea from wleehendrick and expanded on it.
    I like your system... Glad to help! I just installed a Bluetooth receiver and little class D stereo amp in our BBQ island to power a couple outdoor rock speakers and stream music from my phone when out on the patio. Its pretty impressive how much power you can get out of the tiny, cool running switching amps available now.

    Quote Originally Posted by carrera1984 View Post
    A few questions for the guys that are further along then I am...
    1) As I have a coupe, what are the best locations for component speakers, kick panels? 5.25" 's?
    I haven't installed speakers in the 818 yet, but from previous experience, since you have components, ideally I'd recommend woofers in the kick panels and tweeters in the dash or door panels angled towards you. Without a sub, I'd want 6" woofers, and some guys have fit those. But with a sub, 5.25" should be fine. Given the angle they're at, a driver with a phase plug instead of a dust cap should give better mid-range, but that's getting nit-picky for an 818!

    w3_871sa.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by carrera1984 View Post
    2) Is it okay to place the sub in the general area as it is in the picture, if not, whats good? (I plan on fiber glassing a small enclosure for the sub. specs suggest .35cuft optimal)
    That would be perfectly fine with a low (<80Hz) crossover frequency where the sound is omni-directional/un-localizable. However, with 5.25 woofers and a 8" sub, the x-over should be set higher, like 100-120Hz. In that case, the mid-upper bass could be a bit vague, but should be completely acceptable for a sportscar; it's a location option I'm considering if I install a sub. In any case, it's better than a Bose tiny cube + "sub"woofer system with an even higher crossover.

    Quote Originally Posted by carrera1984 View Post
    3) Won't that kick panel get really hot!? Can't imagine that's good for a speaker
    Good point, the side with coolant outflow will be warm. I don't know if this poses an issue to the speaker driver. Plenty of builders have put speakers there, and I don't recall reading about any problems.

  17. #97
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    thanks!

    Thanks wleehendrick for the advice. I think i'm going to go with 5.25's in the kick panels and the sub where I have it in the pic. So pretty much the whole under dash area is free it looks like.(away from the driver area)

  18. #98
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    I am also at the point of audio, I have Kenwood bluetooth 4 channel amp with remote controller to mount in the console, my plan is to put 2 - 3-4" speakers in the top of the dash on the corners and 2 - 5-6" speakers in the door panels between the dash and the kick panels. now my issue is The amp only has a fade front to rear control and just wondering what I should use for speakers. I was thinking 3 way up top and 2 way down below. not sure if component is an option?

    I am just looking for half decent sound no real quality.

    thoughts?

  19. #99
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lumpyguy View Post
    I am also at the point of audio, I have Kenwood bluetooth 4 channel amp with remote controller to mount in the console, my plan is to put 2 - 3-4" speakers in the top of the dash on the corners and 2 - 5-6" speakers in the door panels between the dash and the kick panels. now my issue is The amp only has a fade front to rear control and just wondering what I should use for speakers. I was thinking 3 way up top and 2 way down below. not sure if component is an option?

    I am just looking for half decent sound no real quality.

    thoughts?
    I'd recommend one good set of component speakers with external crossovers over two sets of coaxial speakers as you were thinking. For similar cost, you'll get better sound by putting your budget into one good set rather than multiple cheaper speakers. Put the woofers in the kick panels and the tweeters in the dash. In a two-seater, there's just no need for more than one stereo set of speakers and you can get a decent set of component speakers for well under $100.

    Is the Kenwood amp bridgeable; what's the model #? The little external 4-channel Alpine amp I got is, so I'm bridging it into two channel mode to drive a single pair of speakers. Some 4 channel amps allow you to bridge two channels together to drive a subwoofer, leaving 2 channels for a stereo pair, which would be another option is you decide to try to find a spot for a passive sub.

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    I'd recommend one good set of component speakers with external crossovers over two sets of coaxial speakers as you were thinking. For similar cost, you'll get better sound by putting your budget into one good set rather than multiple cheaper speakers. Put the woofers in the kick panels and the tweeters in the dash. In a two-seater, there's just no need for more than one stereo set of speakers and you can get a decent set of component speakers for well under $100.
    This.

  21. #101
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    Thanks, I have a Kenwood M1824BT compact Bluetooth 4 channel amp 40W x 4 or 90W x 2 with a switch on the amp for 2 channel to 4 channel. So you are saying is do the 2channel setting and run 2 larger woofers in the doors or kick panels and have crossovers with 2 tweeters and in the dash? I did see some nice component set ups as well. Isn't the tweeter supposed to be only so far away from the speakers? the kick panel and dash top are pretty far away from each other.
    This component idea seems pretty good.

  22. #102
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lumpyguy View Post
    Thanks, I have a Kenwood M1824BT compact Bluetooth 4 channel amp 40W x 4 or 90W x 2 with a switch on the amp for 2 channel to 4 channel. So you are saying is do the 2channel setting and run 2 larger woofers in the doors or kick panels and have crossovers with 2 tweeters and in the dash?
    Exactly! that's what I'm doing, using a small 4 channel amp, bridged to two channels. 90WPC to two good speakers will sound sooo much better than 40WPC to 4 lesser coaxial speakers; since your amp supports it, that definitely the way to go.

    Most coaxial speakers have no proper crossover, they run the woofer full range and put a capacitor in series with the tweeter; this filters bass from the tweeter, but generally results in poor frequency response, especially off-axis. Some inexpensive component speakers have similar (simple cap on tweeter) crossovers. I'd avoid these and go for a set with a proper high-order crossover network with resistors and inductors. You don't have to spend a lot, and a proper crossover with well positioned drivers is more important to the sound than any advertised special material or circuit. In a component system, the speaker output from the amp goes to the crossover, which splits the signal; high frequencies go to the tweeter and low frequencies go to the woofer. The woofer and tweeter can then be positioned appropriately for the different jobs each performs.

    92135_4.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Lumpyguy View Post
    Isn't the tweeter supposed to be only so far away from the speakers? the kick panel and dash top are pretty far away from each other.
    In a perfect world, yes. But cars are far from the ideal acoustic environment, and some compromise have to be made! The woofers need to be positioned where they will fit and produce decent bass response. The tweeter should be positioned to provide a good stereo image. The high frequencies from the tweeter are very directional, so a tweeter will not perform well unless it has a clear line of sight to the ears, and it should be as close to on-axis as possible. This is difficult to achieve down low on the door or a kick panel.

    The lower the frequency, the longer the wavelength, and the more difficult it is for your ear to localize the sound. So you can get away with displacing the the woofers below the tweeters, and subwoofers can be put pretty much anywhere they fit and produce good bass.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lumpyguy View Post
    This component idea seems pretty good.
    Yeah, pretty much all premium factory systems and higher-end aftermarket installs utilize component speakers, rather than coaxials, for the reasons I mentioned, and the benifits are there even in a moderately priced system. I had a nice, mostly JL Audio, system in my Z (that I sold to fund the 818) with woofers in door pods and tweeters in the triangular sail panels... sounded great! My wife's 135i has the premium Harman Kardon system (well worth the extra $800 when we ordered it, ) with similar tweeter mounting and she loves it:

    harmannkardon.jpg

    A good goal is to be able to see your tweeters close to head on like this from your seat. I plan to put mine in the front of the dash panel, as I think that will give the best results in the 818. On top can be OK if that's your preference, as high frequencies reflect well off glass, just be sure to position/angle them appropriately.

  23. #103
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    This is great stuff to know, My plan was to put the speaker in the door panel maybe just below the dash or in the pocket where the door pull is (by your leg) not sure on room.
    but if I do component with woofer on the door and tweeter on top of the dash do you think they might be to far apart? I was reading you can have sound issues if to far apart? not that what I have is great by any means.

  24. #104
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    ok so here are a few pics of where I was thinking for speaker locations, not sure I can do the lower door panel (metal door frame)


    IMG-20161221-01101.jpgIMG-20161221-01104.jpg

  25. #105
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I have been working, but not posting for a while now..... to many things on the go.
    I put my speakers in the door.
    Polk audio 5.25 plus the polk tweeters. You can mount the tweeters on the speaker, or separate.
    I decided to go separate to get the highs up higher on the door.
    Lots of room for the depth of the Polk 5.25's
    I also have a JL audio amp with 4 channels. two for the speakers and I will bridge one set of channels for the sub.
    I mounted the sub under the dash, pointing down to the passenger feet.
    I just need to find an enclosure for the sub to keep it from vibrating the dash.
    Here are some pics.

    2CA42CE1-68D6-468D-969E-280B22EDFAFC.JPG
    BF07F335-C2F5-4B2F-88C0-FD4B330DEBC8.JPG
    F5BFC077-666B-485F-A0D2-73AE15C7B053.JPG
    Last edited by Harley818; 12-22-2016 at 01:25 AM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  26. #106
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    that looks great I like the spot where you have the speakers but I have my door pull right there so it would be behind it and probably hard to get your hand in there. I guess I could take the handle off and put on a small pull strap.

  27. #107
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    Looks good!

  28. #108
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    I've been thinking about something like this:
    http://www.outofsightaudio.com

  29. #109
    Senior Member fastzrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hot_Rod_Hooligans View Post
    I've been thinking about something like this:
    http://www.outofsightaudio.com

    Thanks for the link.
    ~ Mark

    818C S/N 429ES: Start Date 1 September 2016
    2001 NB Miata LS3 V8 440 rwhp
    2004 Miata MazdaSpeed Factory Turbo

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