THE Audio System Thread

[wleehendrick]

Having gone through this open air experiment with the hot rod, putting the sub anywhere outside the cabin was useless. The 818 trunk is fairly close and you could run some ports into the cabin. In the hot rod, Strangely enough I was able to fit an 8" inch bazooka under the passenger side dash and it was awesome. With the V8 and the wind noise it took about 700W to be able to listen to anything on the freeway with the sub and two kicker coax 6" in the lower door. I think the kick panel/under dash sub box will be your best bet for anything in the sub category but the doors are also pretty cavernous so you you might be able to get frequencies as low as 100Hz to work there with the right setup and insulation. Just my experience.

Thanks for the info, Eric! That pretty much jives with my plans: a good pair of component speakers in the doors/dash/kick panel area crossed over around 100Hz, and a sub, all with 'enough' power. If I can fit a bazooka tube in the frunk and port it to the cabin, the would be great, otherwise, hopefully a slim (3") sub or two under or behind the seat(s). I won't know for sure until I have my kit in hand, or someone else tries it.

As another point of reference for noise in a topless car, I find the upgraded factory Harmon/Kardon system in our 135i vert quite effective. This has a pair of 1" tweeters and 4" mid-woofers front and rear, an 8" sub under each front seat with 'only' 300W of total power (not stated if this is RMS continuous or peak). At first I was a bit skeptical on whether or not this fairly modest hardware would be adequate in an open top car. I did tweak it with an SPL meter to flatten the frequency response, and got it dialed in quite well. Below 60mph, the factory system sounds great. It's only over 80mph that the wind noise becomes an issue. On the freeway, tire noise can be the biggest factor; on a back road with no other vehicles around, or a concrete barrier to reflect your car's noise back at you, it's fine.

Yes, our BMW is quieter than any 818 will likely be, however the exhaust on the M-sport package is surprisingly throaty (we get comments and compliments on it all the time), and with the top and windows down any open car is noisy. We have a wind deflector, which helps immensely, and I expect the 'speed humps' on the 818 will function similarly by reducing turbulence around the head. That being the case, I'm getting more confident that a fairly modest audio system like I'm planning will do well in an 818.

[ehansen007]

I'd be interested in seeing if you can get anything under the seats. BMW thinks of things like that but with the 818, depending your height, you may not want those seat up too high lest you get above the effective angle of the roll bar and possibly the windshield. It's also going to be interesting to see how much dynamat will be used in these cars as well. For those who haven't built a kit the use of sound deadening material will separate your car from the rest and make it into a real car if you do it right. I went through about 70lbs worth in the hot rod and it made all the difference.

[longislandwrx]

I don't want a head unit or need a radio, just want to use my phone. Anyone know of a loud powered speaker(s) that I can use?

I'm looking at marine stuff for the most part, perhaps a higher quality version of this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRKT2A-...rine+subwoofer

[wleehendrick]

I'd be interested in seeing if you can get anything under the seats. BMW thinks of things like that but with the 818, depending your height, you may not want those seat up too high lest you get above the effective angle of the roll bar and possibly the windshield. It's also going to be interesting to see how much dynamat will be used in these cars as well. For those who haven't built a kit the use of sound deadening material will separate your car from the rest and make it into a real car if you do it right. I went through about 70lbs worth in the hot rod and it made all the difference.

I'll be locating the seats for my ideal driving position, and to pass the 'broomstick test', of course. If and only if there's room underneath will a sub go there.

DynaMat (or similar sound deadening) is in my plan, along with carpeting the interior and finishing the door panels. Hopefully 70lbs isn't required, i't's a small cockpit, after all!

[Xusia]

Also it seems like those shallow mount subs may be the way to go... I haven't analyzed them to come up with a winner, but this seems like a good approach...
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=267-6919
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-297

Another approach would be to go to the smaller array of speakers (many acting as one).
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-919

Richard

Those seem like decent parts. I am an admitted brand-whore when it comes to subs (and most things audio), so I will be using JL Audio subs. The less expensive ones (which I have in my current vehicle) are similarly priced (that is, NOT expensive) but still sound great.

I'd encourage everyone who is building a system to consider using marine grade components. They will deal with the moisture better than standard equipment might.

I've got some experience with convertibles (having owned 2 for a number of years) and in my opinion (which I have stated in the past on this forum) water is not as big of a deal as some may think. Unless you leave it uncovered while it's raining, you not likely to get an appreciable amount of water in the car. A few drops will not hurt most components, but in reality few components will even see a single drop. Speakers have grills which will get the majority of any water (if not all), and the head unit will most likely be in the dash with a fair amount of things above it to "catch" any water. Amps & subs are not likely to be mounted in such a way to even be exposed.

Marine components don't hurt, you are just paying unecessarily (both in price and/or in reduced sound quality) for the water resistance.

[BipDBo]

stereo.jpg

[Xusia]

Hahaha! Too bad the "ghetto blaster" is a dying breed!

[Flying Low]

Those seem like decent parts. I am an admitted brand-whore when it comes to subs (and most things audio), so I will be using JL Audio subs. The less expensive ones (which I have in my current vehicle) are similarly priced (that is, NOT expensive) but still sound great.

Marine components don't hurt, you are just paying unecessarily (both in price and/or in reduced sound quality) for the water resistance.

I agree with you Xusia. Not really much advantage going with the marine. I know what you mean about the buying the brand. The only problem is that JLs are notoriously power/space hogs. They are not very efficient subs. I highly recommend you check the parts express stuff out. is professional speaker building componentry.

[Xusia]

I'm familiar with both Kicker and Pioneer, but I'm sorry to say I'm not much of fan myself. As I stated, they are good parts, I'm just a self professed whore/snob when it comes to things like this (it's a bit of a curse at times). I am not familiar with the Tang brand of speaker, but because of my aforementioned problem, I'm not likely to take a chance without actually hearing them first. Since I don't see a way to do that I don't see myself taking the risk.

As far as space requirements for JL, I have to disagree. Not trying to change your mind, but my own experience with them (again, in my current vehicle) indicates they can sound very good in small spaces. As for power, it's not going to be an EV, so I'm not overly concerned. I tend to go for overkill when it comes to audio power (maybe that's why they sound good in the small spaces in my truck?) and will probably do the same in my 818. I'm only planning a single sub, probably an 8", so something in the 300-500 watt range should do fine!

[305mouse]

I think a 7 or 8" sub between the seats towards the bottom will be a perfect fit and out of the way. I was on the JL and MB Quart bandwagon for many years. I have only bought JL subs and find the right ones are great in small spaces. An 8" needs less than 1 cubic feet, hell, I fit 2 10" subs in about 1.7 cubic feet and they were great.

[wleehendrick]

I'm on the same page as Xusia (although not as much a power hog!) and disagree in general that JL is a space/power hog. Sure there are plenty of huge powerful systems built with their gear, but that's not really necessary if your goal is accurate music, as opposed to show car systems or SPL competition, which I just don't get.

In my current Z, I have the 'lowliest' 10" JL sub in a really small (<1 ft^3) sealed enclosure. This is driven by two bridged channels from my JL 300/4 amp (the other two drive the fronts), crossed over to my front components around 80Hz. I also have 30Hz high-pass FMODs on the inputs to protect it from over-excursion with really deep bass. No, it wont rumble the hood, but it's has plenty of nice tight musical bass at reasonable volumes, and takes up practically no space. That's the results I'd like to get from whatever I decide to put in my 818.

[Xusia]

I'm on the same page as Xusia (although not as much a power hog!)

Hahaha! I don't actually USE it all (well, most of the time I don't!). I just like power in reserve and don't like to overdrive amps. Helps them run cooler and live longer...

[nkw8181]

I am looking at putting something like the marine audio in my car. I am not looking for something that will be HUGE and I also plan to make all easily removable since I'm building the R. Although I don't "plan" to leave her out in the rain I am being realistic when I say it is bound to happen so I will plan for it. This tread had given me a lot of ideas. If has been a good 10 years since I have kept up with what is current in car audio. from what I have gleamed I like the idea on no head unit and in its place a phone/tablet mount. Speaker wise I plan on making my own internal door panels with the speakers attached that are easily removable. I know it won't be the best sound quality but most if not all sound damping will be localized around the panels. I will drive this on the street and on track.

Nolan
Thanks for all the good ideas!

[Silvertop]

I am looking at putting something like the marine audio in my car. I am not looking for something that will be HUGE and I also plan to make all easily removable since I'm building the R. Although I don't "plan" to leave her out in the rain I am being realistic when I say it is bound to happen so I will plan for it. This tread had given me a lot of ideas. If has been a good 10 years since I have kept up with what is current in car audio. from what I have gleamed I like the idea on no head unit and in its place a phone/tablet mount. Speaker wise I plan on making my own internal door panels with the speakers attached that are easily removable. I know it won't be the best sound quality but most if not all sound damping will be localized around the panels. I will drive this on the street and on track.

Nolan
Thanks for all the good ideas!

A lot of Polk Audio's stuff (and in particular all of their good stuff from their MM series) is completely weatherproof. And the MM stuff will sound VERY good. Check out their website.

[nkw8181]

thanks!

[Silvertop]

Moving the conversation below over from the GrassRoots Motorsports Build Thread:

Originally Posted by Silvertop
I know there is a more suitable thread for discussing stereo systems. I won't discuss that any more here. I just need to know the vertical dimensions and depth of the new inner door panel upper recesses.

Originally Posted by wleehendrick
That would be the thread I started here. I"m in the same situation, I will be installing an audio system, and am anxiously looking for any info on mounting options in the door panels.

Originally Posted by Silvertop
My plan was to install the largest and highest quality coaxial or three-way speaker I can buy. The goal is a really good 6 X 9. .

Originally Posted by wleehendrick
FYI, for sound quality forget about coaxial speakers or most 6x9's!!! Get a good set of component speakers (with separate woofers, tweeters and cross-overs network). This lets you mount the tweeter higher in the door for better stereo imaging. The woofer, which handles harder to localize low frequencies, can then be mounted lower in the panel without issues. There are lots of quality component systems with 5.25" and 6.5" woofers (and some 6x9). If 6.5" doesn't fit, I'm optimistic there will be a good location for a 5.25" (but that would likely require a sub for decent bass).


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
wlee:

I agree in principle with your comments about component speaker quality vs coaxials and 6 X 9 3-ways. But there are a few really good ones out there. For example, Polk Audio's MM-Series stuff is uncommonly good -- and there are others. But most of the stuff you buy in the big box stores IS pretty ordinary. You won't find Polk's top shelf stuff there, or any of the other top brands' really good lines. I would select one of these top shelf coaxials largely for the simplicity of it -- though I haven't ruled out component sets. But the real problem is that whether I use components or coaxials, I am resistant to trying to shoehorn a subwoofer into the car somewhere. Even if I can find the space, I hate to sacrifice it. There is likely to be so little of it in this car. I really don't require chest-slamming thunder -- but I don't want to lose bass response altogether. Which is why I am so concerned about what I can get to fit in the doors............

[Xusia]

Silvertop, I think you will find the components easier to install. Yes, there are more pieces, but by having more pieces you gain flexibility in placement. With suitable locations being at a premium, I think having placement flexibility will trump having fewer pieces when in comes to ease. Also, as you said, a good 6x9 is harder to come by. There are a lot more options when it comes to good component speakers.

As far as bass goes, I know *I* can hear a difference between 6.5" round woofers and 6x9's, but I think the average person would be hard pressed to really notice much difference. Also, the enclosure plays a large roll in the bass delivery of any smaller woofer such as we are talking about here. My gut tells me the door will be a poor enclosure, and not big enough anyway to really allow even a good 6x9 to deliver more bass than a good 6.5" woofer (...as part of a component set). Saying it another way, if you want more bass than a 6.5" installed in the door delivers, I don't think you will find a 6x9 installed in the door will deliver enough more to satisfy you - you will need to look at other options.

Speaking of other options, there are quite a few. I don't have my kit yet, so I can't qualify specific areas or solutions yet, but some preliminary thoughts I've had are:

• Sealed box under the dash housing a 6.5" or 8" sub. You wouldn't get a ton of bass with this, but you would need almost no space.
• Ported box housing a 6.5" or 8" sub in either forward of the front firewall, or rearward of the rear firewall, ported INTO the cabin. Would take up more space, but in areas where such space seems to exist.
• Under-seat transducer. Technically NOT a subwoofer, but it would feel like one. They make them pretty small, and they take less power than a sub.

[Silvertop]

Silvertop, I think you will find the components easier to install. Yes, there are more pieces, but by having more pieces you gain flexibility in placement. With suitable locations being at a premium, I think having placement flexibility will trump having fewer pieces when in comes to ease. Also, as you said, a good 6x9 is harder to come by. There are a lot more options when it comes to good component speakers.

As far as bass goes, I know *I* can hear a difference between 6.5" round woofers and 6x9's, but I think the average person would be hard pressed to really notice much difference. Also, the enclosure plays a large roll in the bass delivery of any smaller woofer such as we are talking about here. My gut tells me the door will be a poor enclosure, and not big enough anyway to really allow even a good 6x9 to deliver more bass than a good 6.5" woofer (...as part of a component set). Saying it another way, if you want more bass than a 6.5" installed in the door delivers, I don't think you will find a 6x9 installed in the door will deliver enough more to satisfy you - you will need to look at other options.

Speaking of other options, there are quite a few. I don't have my kit yet, so I can't qualify specific areas or solutions yet, but some preliminary thoughts I've had are:

• Sealed box under the dash housing a 6.5" or 8" sub. You wouldn't get a ton of bass with this, but you would need almost no space.
• Ported box housing a 6.5" or 8" sub in either forward of the front firewall, or rearward of the rear firewall, ported INTO the cabin. Would take up more space, but in areas where such space seems to exist.
• Under-seat transducer. Technically NOT a subwoofer, but it would feel like one. They make them pretty small, and they take less power than a sub.

A lot of interesting food for thought in your comments.

I haven't really decided which way to jump, but my hope is still to use the doors as the home of my primary speakers. Based on what I am seeing, the 6 X 9's probably won't work because (at least if I want to mount them up high), the door panel upper recesses almost certainly won't be tall enough. Which unfortunately, also means that a 6 1/2" round speaker won't go in either. Maybe a 5 1/4 will fit. But that starts to drive the need for a sub, and I'm hoping to avoid that. It just seems to me that finding space will be difficult. My kit should be delivered some time later next week by Stewart Transport (FFR has confirmed that it is done and ready for shipment) so I'll have the ability to figure out mounting choices.

I haven't ruled out component sets. One could then mount only the tweeter up high on the door, with a matching top quality 6 1/2" woofer down lower -- assuming that the lower recess isn't so deep that there's insufficient remaining depth in the door for the speaker.

A 6 1/2" sub? Didn't know you could buy them that small. And I'm totally unfamiliar with transducer technology. Who makes those?

Lots of choices. Once I have my kit in hand, it will be easier figure out what can be done and what can't. It'll be fun!

[Xusia]

The only real difference between a subwoofer and any other speaker is the "throw" or cone excursion - the maximum safe travel distance of the cone. So, any speaker with sufficient cone excursion could be used as a subwoofer. 6.5" is pretty small, and there aren't a lot of choices, but here is one:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-919

I would definitely recommend an 8" sub if at all possible (when it comes to subs, generally bigger is better - up to a point). The only real reason (in my opinion) to opt for a 6.5" is if an 8" just absolutely won't fit.

Now, transducers... I think they are pretty cool, but probably not for everyone. They operate in a similar fashion to a speaker, but rather than moving a voice coil back and forth which is attached to a cone (intended to produce sound waves that travel through the air), they forego the cone and therefore just "shake" whatever they are attached to (i.e. your seat). Because solid objects transmit vibrations much more efficienctly and effectively than air, transducers are much smaller and take much less power than a sub to achieve the same "feel." Keep in mind, though, they are NOT producing any appreciable amount of actual sound - just the associated vibrations of bass. I think in a convertible (an inherently noisy environment), it might be the magic bullet. Check out the ridiculously low price on this highly rated transducer - and it only needs a PALTRY 50 WATTS!!
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...content=299028

Rating on it, as well as another source to buy:
http://www.smarthome.com/8249P1/Bass...nsducer/p.aspx

[Silvertop]

The only real difference between a subwoofer and any other speaker is the "throw" or cone excursion - the maximum safe travel distance of the cone. So, any speaker with sufficient cone excursion could be used as a subwoofer. 6.5" is pretty small, and there aren't a lot of choices, but here is one:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-919

I would definitely recommend an 8" sub if at all possible (when it comes to subs, generally bigger is better - up to a point). The only real reason (in my opinion) to opt for a 6.5" is if an 8" just absolutely won't fit.

Now, transducers... I think they are pretty cool, but probably not for everyone. .................

I'm thinking that the transducer wouldn't be for me........................ But what about something like this?:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091IBUS...n-IBus-20.html

[wleehendrick]

The transducer is an interesting idea, and I seriously might consider it! It could give the sensation of deep bass without the size/weight of a large sub. My only concern is what cross-over frequency to use? I generally like to stay close to the THX recommended 80Hz, as that's where the ear can start to localize sound.

In my home system, with fairly capable mains, I use 60Hz. In my Z, however, I set it up closer to 90Hz (any lower and my door panels vibrate a bit). A lot of car audio systems and 'home theater in a box' with small speakers run much higher (>100Hz) cross-overs to the sub, but that wouldn't work with a tranducer-only system. The specs on the transducer list the upper frequency range as 80Hz, and that's certainly the max I would use. That means unless you want a hole in the mid-bass frequency response, you'll need main speakers that dig down fairly deep, so at least 6.5" woofers, IMHO.

In contrast, the Harmon Kardon system in my wife's 135i has 4" 'woofers' in the doors and 8" subs under the seat. It sounds surprisingly good given the modest speaker sizes, but the mid-bass is a tad lacking; replace the subs with transducers would make the effect much worse.

[Xusia]

I'm thinking that the transducer wouldn't be for me........................ But what about something like this?:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091IBUS...n-IBus-20.html

I haven't heard that unit, but Focal is well respected. Given the size and power, I doubt it will "thump" but it could be adequate. Cant argue with the size! You should easily be able to find a place to put that.

The transducer is an interesting idea, and I seriously might consider it! It could give the sensation of deep bass without the size/weight of a large sub. My only concern is what cross-over frequency to use? I generally like to stay close to the THX recommended 80Hz, as that's where the ear can start to localize sound.

In my home system, with fairly capable mains, I use 60Hz. In my Z, however, I set it up closer to 90Hz (any lower and my door panels vibrate a bit). A lot of car audio systems and 'home theater in a box' with small speakers run much higher (>100Hz) cross-overs to the sub, but that wouldn't work with a tranducer-only system. The specs on the transducer list the upper frequency range as 80Hz, and that's certainly the max I would use. That means unless you want a hole in the mid-bass frequency response, you'll need main speakers that dig down fairly deep, so at least 6.5" woofers, IMHO.

In contrast, the Harmon Kardon system in my wife's 135i has 4" 'woofers' in the doors and 8" subs under the seat. It sounds surprisingly good given the modest speaker sizes, but the mid-bass is a tad lacking; replace the subs with transducers would make the effect much worse.

I'm sure the instructions have a recommendation, and I'd definitely go with that. I'd be surprised if the recommendation was as high as 80Hz - that would practically make it a vibrator! LOL! My guess is somewhere between 40Hz and 60Hz.

[Silvertop]

I haven't heard that unit, but Focal is well respected. Given the size and power, I doubt it will "thump" but it could be adequate. Cant argue with the size! You should easily be able to find a place to put that.

Well, the good news is that I don't require a lot of "thump". In fact, I actually find chest-slamming bass response a little bit undesirable. But a unit like this should resolve the missing bass response issues, particularly if forced to go with 5 1/4" or smaller midrange in the doors. I did notice that the Focal unit only has a frequency response rating of 45-150hz, which isn't really "down there" all that far. I also found a Kenwood unit on the same website with similar power stats, except that it was rated for 35-125hz, a little bit deeper. At $250, it's 50 bucks cheaper than the focal, and is even a good deal smaller and 1/4" lower than the Focal, which could be important if one is going to put it under the seat. Check it out at: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KSCS...11.html?tp=114

I won't be picking the specific unit to buy anytime soon -- I need to build the car first! --but I am pleased to see what appears to be a solution to my anticipated set of speaker range issues.

[Xusia]

No having heard either, I think I like the Kenwood unit a bit better.

[Silvertop]

No having heard either, I think I like the Kenwood unit a bit better.

Yeah, I think I do too. I love to research stuff like this. I figure to find out as much about this product (and other similar ones) as I can. Then make an informed decision....

[wleehendrick]

I've also been considering a slim, underseat sub. After a lot of googling, this Soundstream is probably my first choice if I can't fit a bigger sub in the 818. The Kenwood is on my shortlist as well.

[Xusia]

I'm planning a traditional sub, but that's assuming I can find the space.

[Pike]

My two bits here from my years of experience of listening to music in all kinds of environment:

1. Just about any sound system out there is good enough for a vehicle. Your biggest interest should be in the speakers and their placement. As one poster said, "glass" is your enemy.
2. File format!!! MP3's are crap (even burned from a CD) and unfortunately, there is not much out there for vehicles to make that better. I have almost 300GB of music on a media server (JRiver Media Center) at home and I've been converting what I have in mp3's into a file format called "flac" using "exact audio copy". The only company that makes a compatible mobile system that makes a player capable of playing flac format music is Kenwood (just came out this year).

http://www.kenwood.ca/Car_Entertainm...ivers/KMM-100U. I haven't found anyone local that sells them yet so I'm searching the internet as we speak and I'll be ordering one...pronto!!!!

MP3's sound like music being played underwater compare to a loosless file format. It doesn't have to be 24bit/96khz sound as 16bit/44khz will do just fine in a car but if you have the capability to listen them side by side, you'll never go back to mp3.

Just check it out and you'll see.

[billjr212]

I confess I didn't read every post here, but I'm glad this discussion already exists. 1 comment and 1 question:

For those considering a "simple" set up, do a search in the Roadster sections here and on the other forum. I and many others have had success in using nothing but a phone with bluetooth, an amp in the trunk and a couple speakers.

For this build (when I get to it) I was considering getting a decent head unit since this will be sharing daily driving duties with my 2011 WRX and I don't feel a need to stick to a "classic" look. I was looking at something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0086V637Y/

sony receiver.jpg

But is a double DIN going to fit in this space on the dash?
818 interior_1.jpg

[Xusia]

I'll have my kit in a few weeks, but right now I cant say. My plan has always been to put any head unit in the console. Plenty of room there.

[flynntuna]

Would there be enough room between the Boyd tank and the aluminum behind the seats possibly even using that panel to build a custom subwoofer?

[Wayne Presley]

Would there be enough room between the Boyd tank and the aluminum behind the seats possibly even using that panel to build a custom subwoofer?

Not that I would see. Way easier to put the sub up front and porting it back into the passenger compartment.

[Xusia]

That pic makes it look like there is enough room, but since that tank only adds like 3" (or 4"??) of leg room, that's simply not enough depth to work with.

What I wish Boyd made was a tank that was as tall as possible on the passenger side, but left the space behind the driver's seat vacant (except for the filler tube) so that it could be filled with a proper sub (or for REALLY tall folks to have even more leg room!).

Boyd, if you are reading this...!

[wleehendrick]

Boyd, if you are reading this...!

Give him the dimensions and I'm sure he'll make one for you!

By the way, I got some of my audio system already... I ordered a Sony DSXS210X head unit on closeout and a little Alpine KTP-445U amp (bridgable to 90W into two channels). Once I finish my chassis Aluminum, I'll pick a spot for speakers and decide on 5.25" or 6.5"; definitely going with components. Subwoofer is still TBD based on space once the interior is settled.

[Xusia]

Awesome! I spoke with my local installer of choice the other day and have a good idea what I want to do. I'm going sans head unit and will be using a tablet instead. That will necessitate a custom console I'm sure. I'll pick the tablet once I get the kit and see the particulars.

[David Hodgkins]

That pic makes it look like there is enough room, but since that tank only adds like 3" (or 4"??) of leg room, that's simply not enough depth to work with.

What I wish Boyd made was a tank that was as tall as possible on the passenger side, but left the space behind the driver's seat vacant (except for the filler tube) so that it could be filled with a proper sub (or for REALLY tall folks to have even more leg room!).

Boyd, if you are reading this...!

I think the tall tank from FFR is only on the passenger side...

[flynntuna]

Not that I would see. Way easier to put the sub up front and porting it back into the passenger compartment.

Yea I see what you mean.

[wleehendrick]

I ordered the Boyd tank, and I plan the modify the rear firewall to get up to 3" more cockpit space. Once I get that and my seats positioned, I'll see if I have enough room for a slim (underseat) subwoofer on the firewall. I know they're not ideal, but there are quite a few 3-4" thick subs that might work:

[Harley818]

this thread is a year old!!!! any updates from you that have finished your builds?
I'm looking for a good head unit (for convenience of easy accessability) but basically using my Iphone for music. Good all around sound, with sub.

Any more recent updates or ideas? One of the new Sony systems seems to have good bluetooth compatability and reviews are favorable.
I would rather hear from someone who has done it and likes the sound.

[ewingate]

Kicker PXiBT50.2
Basically a little bluetooth amp for 2 speakers, weather resistant buttons, pre-amp out for a subwoofer, aux-in. Looks and works great!