Metalmaker's build thread begins

[metalmaker12]

Motors back and I am getting that vroom feeling, hopefully I can drop it in by tues

Got my break in oil: check
Torque wrench: check
All gaskets and torque specs: check
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[Tamra]

Nice! So did they fully assemble it for you? I bet you can't wait to have it on the road again.

[metalmaker12]

I had Russ Johnson in Warwick R.I do the machine work of the bores and the heads. Btw very excellent!!!! machine shop for any engine with 40 years of experience guys. It did not need a line hone, and everthing measured out perfect except one bore. I than had Wicked Innovation in NH assemble to longblock. I have been part of around 4 subaru full rebuilds in the past, from a few years working as a subie tech and just fun builds with friends, but I don't own all the required tools any longer, plus Wicked does such spot on work for me that I decided to have them do it up, they did an excellent job. I just gotta finish up the intake manifold and all the small coolant lines and hook up my perrin Aos, new turbo etc etc etc tune for new injectors etc etc. stickshift84 came up to NH today to talk shop with my friend Jay and Tom at Wicked, we talked shop for like two hours, and would have kept talking but a customer showed up. I am very excited to get it running and break the new mill in. Should make a great powerband and be reliable too.

[sponaugle]

Congrats on the motor build.. looks fantastic!

[Santiago]

Excellent Smithers...release the hounds!

[metalmaker12]

Going hard on it now, almost ready to drop

[C.Plavan]

Get that thing in already

[metalmaker12]

Got most of it together, just gotta install flywheel, clutch, tranny and run the Pcv setup to the Aos and install header studs and mounts, than check it all over and drop image.jpg

[Frank818]

, than check it all over and drop

...and drive!

[svanlare]

Excellent, great to see it coming back together.

[Pearldrummer7]

I think we need a start up video!

[metalmaker12]

Ok I post one if I remember

[metalmaker12]

Motors in for the second run. I had stickshift84 lend a hand. We tried his method of engine in first alone. It works pretty well, you just gotta get the engine at the right pitch for the tranny to slide in. Either way has it's pros and cons. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

[MrDude_1]

Its probably here but Im missing it.... What color or coating is that on the intake manifold? Looks really good.

[metalmaker12]

Kbs ceramic Grey coating, image.jpg

Good stuff holds up forever, and brushes on. Bakes on @200-300 degrees.

I also came across chassis savor for the frame that's basically Por 15 but way cheaper.

[Frank818]

Are you also using that KBS on your exhaust pipes and headers?

[xxguitarist]

You mentioned break-in oil. What are you running for break-in, then what's the plan for later down the road? We're planning to default to T6.

[Kalstar]

Where is the vid? I'm turning blue holding my breath.

[metalmaker12]

You mentioned break-in oil. What are you running for break-in, then what's the plan for later down the road? We're planning to default to T6.

image.jpgThis is the break in oil, I will run for 350-400 miles drain ( ps it drains very thin, that's normal) and fill with Rotella T synthetic 5w-30 ( best oil for these motors) and you can get it at walmart.

Also frank my headers are wrapped now.

[metalmaker12]

Not going to be for awhile, taking my time to get it all nice nice

[Frank818]

Ok so you wrapped but did not ceramic coat under.

[STiPWRD]

image.jpg

Sweet beer pong table. We used to have a functional beer pong room in the basement but at the moment it's covered with aluminum sheet metal and car parts scattered everywhere.

[metalmaker12]

Ok so you wrapped but did not ceramic coat under.

There coated also

[metalmaker12]

Sweet beer pong table. We used to have a functional beer pong room in the basement but at the moment it's covered with aluminum sheet metal and car parts scattered everywhere.

I am a serious beer pong player, strick rules, no blowing or fingering allowed on table!! Lol

[Frank818]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=y...&v=_H2tQeeSltY

Wipers are working and clear hood, I made them myself like Erik, should be getting plates this week. It's hitting my sticker, so gotta place that higher... Or just take the wiper off once I get plates.

Metal, I asked a few things about this kit, which helped me understand where on my options list I could use that solution, but I never asked about the parts you used. Are they all from donor or you used something different?

And I guess you used the 1-arm wiper solution cuz with 2 arms it wouldn't clear the hood?

[metalmaker12]

Metal, I asked a few things about this kit, which helped me understand where on my options list I could use that solution, but I never asked about the parts you used. Are they all from donor or you used something different?

And I guess you used the 1-arm wiper solution cuz with 2 arms it wouldn't clear the hood?

It's all from the donor with some use of scrap metal for small brackets, bolts, nuts,and rivets hood support. It works pretty well for something I created in about two hours, I have close up pics posted somewhere. I could have made two wipers work, just more time consuming. If I had more time I could make a kit work with what we have and not have to cut the hood for prob the same price as FFR's.

[Frank818]

Very interesting. So your solution is to slightly change the "natural" curvature of the hood to clear out both OEM arms (if I recall Dan thinks the same). I'll give it a try around June, unless I can spend 40h a week on the car for the next 4-5 months, while still working on my other job 5 days a week.

Let us know you if decide to build and sell a kit.
Have a nice game tonight.

[metalmaker12]

Yeah nice game, the bruins are hurting pretty bad this season.

[metalmaker12]

So I had some time to mock up my heat shield and put on my turbo blanket after I installed new poly bushings for my lower control arms and installed axles. The poly bushings and full group n mounts should make things very solid. Not really done, I have to trim tower brace slightly and debur some edges. It's ok looking and was just a prototype I won't be using, I am going try something else that's cleaner looking when I trim the tower brace. I am going to wrap my exhaust like my headers and this should all help with heat and look good too.

[metalmaker12]

Installed and Primed my awic system
Filled coolant system
Filled engine break in oil
Filled gearbox lube
Primed oil system
Hooked up post IC temp sensor

Gotta run base map for new injectors for start up. I had to mount awic slightly different to create better room for my factory bov and my truck brace, but I got it, just gotta make a different rear bracket.

image.jpgimage.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Installed and Primed my awic system
Filled coolant system
Filled engine break in oil
Filled gearbox lube
Primed oil system
Hooked up post IC temp sensor

Gotta run base map for new injectors for start up. I had to mount awic slightly different to create better room for my factory bov and my truck brace, but I got it, just gotta make a different rear bracket.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Hey Chris,
Looking good,
On the bleed valve you put on your AWIC. How thick was the metal there?
I like the bar you over the AWIC. What is the height of the bar from bottom of shock support brace to the top of the bar you added?

Thanks
Bob

[Frank818]

I like the bar you over the AWIC. What is the height of the bar from bottom of shock support brace to the top of the bar you added?

I second that, I like it too and I too need to know that height (for other purpose).

tnx

[Kalstar]

Well done and looks great. Seems like a great solution.

[metalmaker12]

It's just some stainless bar I had bent into position. It is 8" from bottomimage.jpg

[Frank818]

And the deck lid simply sits on the bar for added strength?

[metalmaker12]

Yeah, I will be placing a rubber sleve on the bar to reduce friction etc. it also helps with the seem and shape of the truck. You will see when you start getting the panels together. Keep in mind my frame is #13 so revision to the body molds might have been made, so my mods might not be needed. You have to mod as you go

[Frank818]

I have to mod so many things I don't think the body panels will be an exception. But I get it, yes.

I will most probably have to invert the rear tower brace (cut it and weld it with the transverse bar at the top instead of bottom), and cut and raise the horizontal v-bar over your manifold, I'll try to use those as a support and extend with a bar or something between, if needed. Anyway I'll see when I get there, but I admit when the car is home the project runs MUCH faster! Almost 4h a day in average, now.

Nothing to do with the above, remind me, you will keep the car white?

[metalmaker12]

I have to mod so many things I don't think the body panels will be an exception. But I get it, yes.

I will most probably have to invert the rear tower brace (cut it and weld it with the transverse bar at the top instead of bottom), and cut and raise the horizontal v-bar over your manifold, I'll try to use those as a support and extend with a bar or something between, if needed. Anyway I'll see when I get there, but I admit when the car is home the project runs MUCH faster! Almost 4h a day in average, now.
P
Nothing to do with the above, remind me, you will keep the car white?

Yeah it's all painted super bright white bro. In paint form with a bright pure white the panels are much brighter and more shinny with the clear than the gelcoat which is almost an off white. So the panels are like ten times brighter in the sun etc. gunmetal was my second choice, but I like white with black/gunmetal accents most.

[Samiam1017]

What your break in method? On the basic forum if you ask they say ask you engine builder. But I have a brand new stock block still 257 so I don't know who he/she was to ask. Thx

[metalmaker12]

What your break in method? On the basic forum if you ask they say ask you engine builder. But I have a brand new stock block still 257 so I don't know who he/she was to ask. Thx

Prime oil pressure till oil light goes out or around 15-20 psi on a gauge.
Make sure engine is running correctly, right tune and no vacuum or other leaks ,
Use break in oil in my post #939 and drive with it for 50-60 miles and drain

Fill with a recommend oil, I like Rotella T6

Keep boost and rev lower for the first 1000 miles with occasional gradual pulls.