Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  9
Likes Likes:  2
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 133

Thread: 818 assembly tips- add yours

  1. #1
    Administrator
    Wayne Presley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Enterprise Alabama
    Posts
    2,804
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3

    818 assembly tips- add yours

    The outer can be a real pain to get past the circlip when installing it. I use a hose clamp to compress the circlip, fully tighten it then back off 1/4 turn so it will slide. Put the CV on the tip of the spline and give it a good whack with a dead blow hammer. It will slide over the circlip, fully loosen and remove the clamp and then fully seat the CV to the base of splines.









    I pack them with this

    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  2. #2
    Administrator
    Wayne Presley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Enterprise Alabama
    Posts
    2,804
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    Rear shock spring preload, adjust it before putting it on the car. From the bottom of the spring perch to the bottom of the threaded sleeve is about 3" at ride height. Much easier off the car since you have to put 3/4"ish of preload on spring
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  3. #3
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    When installing engine/tranny, two people is a good idea, remove the up-pipe and headers, along with the FFR recommend removal of the coolant tank and oil filler neck, protect frame with pipe foam insulation and be aware of your inlet tubes associated boost line bung ( broke my bung lol), or just remove the inlet. I agree with adjusting the coil over first, not a lot of room to adjust them when there on.

  4. #4
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Get more than 25 cleco's. 35 is better, 50 is great. It can be done with 25, just not as well. Some 3/16's cleco's would be nice for the firewall but I got away with using a series of 6 clamps.

    If you are marking aluminum then removing it to drill, check the locations first to ensure you can actually drill the frame and rivet in the spots you marked.

    Some panels overlap slightly. Line up adjoining panels and then mark for drilling to prevent panels overlapping on top of rivets or rivet holes in one panel that are on the edge of another panel.

    I took the route of fitting all of the aluminum first so it can be deburred and powdercoated for quick assembly all at once later. For the interior panels I drilled the panels while them already clamped onto the frame and drilled the frame and panel at the same time.

    Get a deburr tool (one in link or a countersink deburr tool for small holes). Some of the laser cut pieces are rough as are the saw cut spacers and could use deburring.
    Straight edges and large holes: http://fierychill.com/imperial-210-f...Fe1DMgodbFgA7A
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  5. #5
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    You get tons of bolts, nuts, washers, screws etc I organized them by type on a small portable card table. Now I'm not digging through a box to find the correct fastener etc...

    hardware.PNG

  6. #6
    Administrator
    Wayne Presley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Enterprise Alabama
    Posts
    2,804
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    Get yourself a block of styrofoam to drill the aluminum panels on.
    Here is my rivet spacing guide, a carpenters square, one edge drilled on 2.5", one on 3" and one on 2". Mark the backside of all the aluminum with a Sharpie BEFORE you pull them off the chassis and then take them over to the foam block to drill them. I've done 20 FFR's this way, way easier faster way to build.

    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  7. #7
    Administrator
    Wayne Presley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Enterprise Alabama
    Posts
    2,804
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    3
    Early production control arms on the upper front left side need to be modified, there is a running change by FFR to correct this so please verify before doing this modification.

    Trim the welded stud on the ball joint plate 1.100" and you should end up with .800" of thread past the fully threaded nut.



    Flip the pivot arms so the grease fitting face down and assemble as shown.

    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  8. #8
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    2,540
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    6
    On the subject of axles

    The empi boot kits are really nice and come with clamps, new clip, boot and a premeasured amount of grease. When you rebuild its a great option.

    Also the tri-bearing carrier on the inner cv can be on there tight after removing the spring clip. I have used a hammer, but I did mush one once making it harder to get the clip back on. an better option was to use a press and it came off super smooth. The carrier is directional so make sure it goes back on the right way or it will not get on far enough to reinsert the clip.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  9. #9
    Senior Member fateo66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Golden, Co
    Posts
    229
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you cant seem to get your coilover threaded sleeve all the way down, assemble the upper spring perch and slowly tighten the adjustable ring until the sleeve drops down into place.

    1997 RSVX Impreza Awesomeness!
    1999 RHD 22B RSTI
    2002 WRX
    2005 Saabaru
    2008 STI
    2013 FFR 818 #30

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Vancouver B C
    Posts
    40
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great ideas guys, with out changing Wayne's thread I'd like to add a general shop tip, I'm sure Wayne and the other pro's around here have lots of tip's for wrenching & shop and I hope they share some of those idea's also.
    Most of the build threads that I see here - it looks like the lucky guys are working day after day on the project, for me that won't be the case. When I finish with a caulking gun I screw an electrical marrette (plastic thing that screws onto 2 or more wires to hold them connected) over the tip, the threads of the marrette bite into the tip of the caulking tube, sealing it against drying out.
    If you have to use a tap to make or clean up threads put a dab of grease in the flutes (the valley between the cutting surfaces) of the tap, it will pick up most if not all of the cuttings.
    Finn

  11. #11
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    When making your brake lines, measuring is difficult. Use some formable wire (I used galvanized baling wire) to make the shape you need then copy that with your brake line. Mark the start middle and end of the bend with marks perpendicular to the brake line. Draw a line parallel to the line on the surface that is in plane with the bend so you know how to orient the tube in the bender.. Helps you to make lines that can hug the frame nicely without lots of mistakes.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  12. #12
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
    wallace18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Trenton, Florida
    Posts
    5,381
    Post Thanks / Like
    When installing the shock collars heat them with a heat gun for 45 seconds. They will fall in place. No sanding or decal removal. Also they lock in place for easier spring adjustments.

    81855.jpg

  13. #13
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    DO NOT use masking tape to mark your harness connectors! It is NOT strong enough and some will get damaged or destroyed. tags with string to tie them on or tags held on by small zip ties are far more durable. Losing the ID of a small plug in that huge 42 lb octopus could take a long time to identify.

    Ask me how I know! ;-)
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  14. #14
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, USA
    Posts
    2,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've been using a Dymo Labelwriter 450 Turbo with the labels that were included. They stick very good, and being printed means I can still read them later.

  15. #15
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you have an 02-05 donor the throttle pedal can be a challenge

    1 the split ferrule nut. the threads line up only one way so test it on a 1/4 x20 bolt first and mark the nut. I found that the threads lined up when the flats were rotated 1 flat from the slot. Once you find where the threads line up and it mnakes a single nut mark the flats with a magic marker, makes it easier to re-align when you are up under the dash area. I used RTV to hold it in place after it was tightened.

    2 you need to slot a fender washer to place vs the firewall so the ferrule doesn't pull through the firewall

    3 some of us found that the pedal works better w/o the bracket (Tom W. was 1st) It moves around quite a bit when you use the bracket. The pedal lines up better too.

    4 the hole through the firewall isn't big enough at 1/4 inch (manual inst. ) if you use the black plastic piece the hole has to be just over .515 inch. If you don't use it the ball will slide through the pedal hole. I cut a slot in the plastic piece, slid the ball thriough a 5/16 hole and replaced the plastic piece to hold vs the pedal. You could also slot a washer to hold it in place vs the pedal. I also used RTV to hold it centered.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  16. #16

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Norton, MA USA earth
    Posts
    3,325
    Post Thanks / Like
    Buy a metric ferrule for your front master cylinder location instead of using the FFR supplied adapter. They make the 10MM tube nut that accepts 3/16 brake line. This allows you to bend the line a little lower and not interfere with the windshield surround.
    Mike
    Last edited by Wayne Presley; 11-16-2013 at 07:35 AM.

  17. Thanks Kiwi Dave thanked for this post
  18. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    607
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    Early production control arms on the upper front left side need to be modified, there is a running change by FFR to correct this so please verify before doing this modification.

    Trim the welded stud on the ball joint plate 1.100" and you should end up with .800" of thread past the fully threaded nut.



    Flip the pivot arms so the grease fitting face down and assemble as shown.

    I'm guessing I need to make this modification, but how can I tell if I need to?

  19. #18
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, USA
    Posts
    2,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    If I recall correctly, this is necessary if you have an angled ball joint. If the ball joint is perfectly perpendicular to the pivot arms, it is not necessary because you can just flip it over and use it as is. The angled ball joint makes that impossible because it would be at the wrong angle (backwards), so you have to modify control arm.

  20. #19
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    \The new arms also have two hex links that are the same length vs one long and one short as seen above IIRC
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  21. #20
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Encinitas, CA
    Posts
    1,653
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2
    After stripping the Aluminum and fiberglass panels off the frame from shipping, also remove the rear strut tower brace or cover the fender support plates with padding. If you walk into this protruding sharp edge, it hurts. Really hurts.

  22. #21
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    After stripping the Aluminum and fiberglass panels off the frame from shipping, also remove the rear strut tower brace or cover the fender support plates with padding. If you walk into this protruding sharp edge, it hurts. Really hurts.
    You should see what it does to your head when you hit it!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  23. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Adkins, TX
    Posts
    79
    Post Thanks / Like

    Motor drop in

    In addition to the oil inlet removing the two lower heat shields on the headers along with the oil dipstick will give you enough clearance to get the motor in. Removing the dipstick tube and the plastic intake hose would make it even easier, but it wasn't required. Some ratcheting straps connected to the back of the transmission allows you to angle the motor as it is going in without having to fight it.

    I also replaced the clutch and flywheel. Using a strap in the back and one in the front enabled me to get the transmission hooked back up with out any help or breaking my back.

    lowering motor.jpg
    1995 Nissan Skyline GTR VSpec
    818S in progress.

  24. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Near Denver Colorado
    Posts
    60
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lessons learned so far on my build:
    1) The hose clamp was a little too wide to work getting the CV joint on the rear axle, but a tywrap worked great
    2) Careful when you pull the front axle out of the differential in in that the retaining clip can easily catch and ruin the seal
    3) A set of dial calipers are very handy to sort out the spacers use in the suspension systems
    4) I had to pull both the exhaust manifold and coolant tank to get the engine in the frame
    5) A 3 inch C clamp works perfect to grab the center differential. It was slippery and difficult to get a hold of otherwise. Hook it over one of the 4 holes and you have a great handle to pull with.

    Larry

  25. #24
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Suisun City, CA
    Posts
    851
    Post Thanks / Like
    For the super tight radiator tube adapters, here's what I ended up doing... Slide the inner sleeve onto the coolant tube and secure it with a clamp. Lube the outside of it and the inside of the adapter. This should help get the adapter slid on and keep the inside sleeve in place.


  26. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    477
    Post Thanks / Like

    Check That EVRY Flange is Flat

    Valuable advice from Charley (Service mngr. Gillman Subaru in Houston). None of the flanges on the exhaust parts that I have were "true flat", including the Ffr after-turbo adapters. Some were terrible! and would almost certainly have leaked, if not immediately...pretty soon thereafter. (and I would probably have blamed the gaskets, and tightened the bolts unreasonably).

    Thanks Charley

  27. #26
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    The FFR shifter assembly at the rear of the car contacts the rear bodywork/screen when in 2nd, 4th, Reverse gears. While there are solutions that require you to buy a new shifter arm you can re-purpose the existing arm with a bandsaw, a welder and a drill.

    It is detailed on my thread at

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Thread/page14 go to post # 543
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  28. #27
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Medina, OH
    Posts
    744
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice Dan. I did a very similar mod that didn't require welding for those who don't have a welder. My setup is for the K-Tuned shifter from Wayne at VCP, but can be applied just as Dan did. Rather than weld the sleeve of the factory bracket (very clean look btw), I used a piece of 1-1/4" solid trailering draw bar to fill the space between the wings of the shifter bracket and drilled the holes for the transmission shaft and retaining pin. See post #78 on my build thread (page 2) to compare mine with Dan's. My pictures highlight the K-Tuned setup, Dan's highlights the FFR setup. For the weight conscious, Dan's will be lighter.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Phoenix/page2
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  29. #28
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    Rich, you need a welder! Missed your posts 2 weeks ago :-(

    Just goes to show us how many ways there are to skin a cat!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  30. #29
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Medina, OH
    Posts
    744
    Post Thanks / Like
    I need the skills to run a welder! I'm halfway there after scoring a miller on Craigslist last year, but haven't learned how yet. This could have been an opportunity to practice, but it's been cold, and it's in storage. Ventilation hasn't been an option.

    Rori has a similar, but stunningly beautiful option using billet aluminum. Had he done that a few weeks earlier, I probably would have picked up his.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  31. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    556
    Post Thanks / Like
    In the assembly manual p. 59 - 61 (Cockpit front firewall aluminum) although the photos show the pedal box already bolted in, there is no mention of this. So that if, like me, you follow the instructions and rivet on the first two aluminum pieces, you will then have to drill out the rivets, bolt on the pedal box, and re-rivet the "left cockpit front upper cover". Although the emailed manual revision tells how to bolt the pedal box to the frame, nowhere does it mention that it is crucial to accomplish this step before starting to mount the aluminum.

  32. #31
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    2,540
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    6
    Im assuming they changed the frame design, because my manual doesn't show the pedal box installed, because its done after the sheetmetal.


    Edit

    Just downloaded the full revision I manual

    I see what you are saying... The earlier frames had the pedal box MOUNT welded to the frame... The new frames it bolts on.

    If you look at https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...-1i-update.pdf

    It shows the pedal box front plate (mount) being installed before the sheetmetal.

    Good advice for someone with a new frame.
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 04-16-2014 at 12:29 PM.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  33. #32
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    Im assuming they changed the frame design, because my manual doesn't show the pedal box installed, because its done after the sheetmetal.


    Edit

    Just downloaded the full revision I manual

    I see what you are saying... The earlier frames had the pedal box MOUNT welded to the frame... The new frames it bolts on.

    If you look at https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...-1i-update.pdf

    It shows the pedal box front plate (mount) being installed before the sheetmetal.

    Good advice for someone with a new frame.
    Thanks for posting the rev I update. I was a bit confused when I read it and am about to install my firewall so I'd like to make sure I understand everything. On the newer chassis, does the pedal box have to be bolted in before the upper left portion of the firewall is installed? I'm guessing yes since the firewall is not shown in the rev I update pictures.

    The windshield install is also confusing. On pg 16 they tell you to "Cut the area out using the rear hood support aluminum as a maximum guide". What does this mean and why does this need to be done? Perhaps for the wipers? I don't see any cuts in the picture.

    Also, can the windshield be installed in its surround off of the car before any cutting is done? Or does the surround need to be on the car prior to the glass install?

  34. #33
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, USA
    Posts
    2,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    Im assuming they changed the frame design, because my manual doesn't show the pedal box installed, because its done after the sheetmetal.


    Edit

    Just downloaded the full revision I manual

    I see what you are saying... The earlier frames had the pedal box MOUNT welded to the frame... The new frames it bolts on.

    If you look at https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...-1i-update.pdf

    It shows the pedal box front plate (mount) being installed before the sheetmetal.

    Good advice for someone with a new frame.
    I'll bet they made that change to accommodate other pedal boxes, so it makes sense.
    Have you seen the 818 Registry on Google Maps?? https://www.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...a=0&dg=feature

    Want your 818 added to the Registry? https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1zmF...rNCY4/viewform

  35. #34
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, USA
    Posts
    2,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Thanks for posting the rev I update. I was a bit confused when I read it and am about to install my firewall so I'd like to make sure I understand everything. On the newer chassis, does the pedal box have to be bolted in before the upper left portion of the firewall is installed? I'm guessing yes since the firewall is not shown in the rev I update pictures.
    I don't know about the newer frames, but on the older ones you mount the pedal box after the aluminum. Looking at the updated manual, I would guess the same is true. What you have to mount before, is the pedal box mount.
    Have you seen the 818 Registry on Google Maps?? https://www.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...a=0&dg=feature

    Want your 818 added to the Registry? https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1zmF...rNCY4/viewform

  36. #35
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    2,540
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    6
    It appears the pedal box mounting plate needs to be mounted first ( not the pedal box itself, which bolts through both) but I'll leave that someone with a new chassis to answer.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  37. #36
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Understood. Any insights into the new windshield instructions?

  38. #37
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    556
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well, to clarify, the pedal box mount has to be bolted in before the aluminum. The pedal box comes later.

  39. #38
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Freeport, ME
    Posts
    3,801
    Post Thanks / Like
    There is a new support for the back of the hood. It also covers the hole that you cut to access the brake and clutch cyl reservoirs. It's just a piece of aluminum with rubber on the top to support the back of the hood. Mine came last week by FedX

    P1110807.JPG
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 04-16-2014 at 06:04 PM. Reason: added photo
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  40. #39
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    545
    Post Thanks / Like
    For the pedal box, what hardware should be used to mount it?

    Never mind, there was a bag marked "Option Hdw" in the box with the pedal mount that had 5 button head screws and nuts.
    Last edited by svanlare; 04-16-2014 at 11:55 PM.

  41. #40
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    556
    Post Thanks / Like
    My kit (picked up on 4/5) included a bag of bolts marked pedal box.

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Martin's Dent and Collision Shop

Visit our community sponsor