Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[Brando]

I also have a light ACT flywheel. I have continually suffered from stalling. I thought it was a vacuum leak but turns out it wasn't. I told the guys who tuned it, the told me why and said they fixed it on the tune. Not so much.

I still haven't been able to figure it out, i was tempted to move the idle needle on the intake.
I have been blip-ping the throttle while braking until its solved...gets old fast

Your engine sounds epic

[metalmaker12]

Mine never did this, but I have an oem flywheel.

[GUNS]

Congrats on the first drive! I hope to be driving mine very soon as well. I also have an ACT streetlite, so I'll let you know if I have any issues.

[Mechie3]

Subaru calls it the IACV.

I've had various reasons for stalling my subaru:
Too low idle (with LW FW and LW pulley)
leaky head gasket (logging showed it going lean coming to a stop then smoothing out)
bad 02 sensor

Changing the IACV gasket is cheapest and easiest first fix.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks! I took it out for a few more laps later. Breaking stuff in sucks when you want to floor it.

Brando- How long did it take to get the Wilwoods broken in? It's taking alot longer than I'm use to. My pedal is super firm, but braking sucks right now (new pads and rotors). I'm probably at least going to go with the ST43 Raybestos race compound. I'm not sure about these pads right now.

[C.Plavan]

Subaru calls it the IACV.

I've had various reasons for stalling my subaru:
Too low idle (with LW FW and LW pulley)
leaky head gasket (logging showed it going lean coming to a stop then smoothing out)
bad 02 sensor
Changing the IACV gasket is cheapest and easiest first fix.

I thought Drive by wire car did not have a IACV?

[Mechie3]

That's correct. Forgot you had an 06 motor. I was responding more to others not knowing what Subaru called their control valve. The DBW just controls the throttle plate directly.

If you can datalog it that can help determine if it's going rich and stalling or lean and then go from there. Compression check would be easy in the 818 too since the spark plugs are readily accessible.

[Hindsight]

leaky head gasket (logging showed it going lean coming to a stop then smoothing out)

Mechie, how did a leaky head gasket cause this and how would coming to a stop change it? I ask because I'm trying to solve a lean condition myself.

[C.Plavan]

I do not think there is any head gasket issue. Its a brand spanking new motor. I just think I need to bump the idle RPM or injector cutoff values.

[Mechie3]

Mechie, how did a leaky head gasket cause this and how would coming to a stop change it? I ask because I'm trying to solve a lean condition myself.

In my case (not a new motor) there was a small air leak that was mostly noticeable at lower rpms/air flow. At higher rpms/airflow the amount of the leak was small relative to the rest of the airflow. I upped the idle rpm to get by for a while but eventually my coolant was all brown so I took it apart and put new gaskets on and it was fine.

[Brando]

I drove the car around the street for 100 miles, ran 1 day of autocross, then when I went to streets of willow I was finally able to lock up my R6's. Seems excessively long but that was how it was for me. Even then I had to plow into the brake pretty hard to get it to lock.

[Hindsight]

Ahhhhhhh! Ok that makes perfect sense. Do you think this kind of leak would show up on a compression test, or would have to be a leakdown test?

(Sorry to hijack your thread Chad.... I've been chasing this problem down for a year now!) I would think to solve your issue, you could use an AccessPort or whatever to up your idle RPMs, like you mention, to compensate for the lack of inertia in the flywheel.

[longislandwrx]

did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

[C.Plavan]

did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

I gave it a good look. No idle problems at all. When its cold, it idles higher, then as it warms up it gets down to around 750 RPM. No jumping or anything.

I just think my lightweight pulley and Flywheel are the cause. I'll bumped up the "warm" RPM's to 900 to see if that will help catch it. I may go a little higher if that does not help.

[waruaki]

I run the lightened pulley's but not the flywheel. I have yet to have it ever stall on me.

[iWire]

Quick test to see if the stalling is from a vacuum leak (stalling when coming to a stop is a common symptom) is just to unplug the MAF. It'll run off the MAP sensor and if it doesn't stall you know it's a vacuum leak, if it does it's not.

[C.Plavan]

Quick test to see if the stalling is from a vacuum leak (stalling when coming to a stop is a common symptom) is just to unplug the MAF. It'll run off the MAP sensor and if it doesn't stall you know it's a vacuum leak, if it does it's not.

I started it up, pulled off the MAF and it stalled.

[JeromeS13]

Quick test to see if the stalling is from a vacuum leak (stalling when coming to a stop is a common symptom) is just to unplug the MAF. It'll run off the MAP sensor and if it doesn't stall you know it's a vacuum leak, if it does it's not.

That's only if you're running a MAF based tune, correct? I'm running Speed Density.

[C.Plavan]

FYI- I'm ditching the digital display. You cant see it in direct sunlight light. I worried about that. No Roof= No Good for display. Just going VDO gauges and using my Traqmate from the other race car. The Traqdash is better in sunlight than a tablet.

[C.Plavan]

In preparation for the dry sump pump/kit, I had to install the A/C idler pulley and associated bits. I had to swap out the steel alternator bracket (Everson Alternator turnbuckle kit) to the original bracket. The turnbuckle Alt belt adjustment still works which is nice. The dry sump pump mounts where the A/C compressor was.

[C.Plavan]

I Plastidip'd the front of the dash. I'm pretty happy with the results. It breaks it up nicely from the top, and gives it a suede type look/feel. Crappy cell phone pics.

[Hindsight]

Nice! I would have never thought to use plasti dip. I ordered my 818 with a "padded dash", which I was told was a new option, but they couldn't tell me where the padding is so I am assuming top only. I may do as you did for the front if that's the case.

[Frank818]

Yeah, get a better cell phone, Chad.

I will use plastidip as well on a couple of parts, so it did adhere nicely on the dash? How many coats?

[C.Plavan]

Nice! I would have never thought to use plasti dip. I ordered my 818 with a "padded dash", which I was told was a new option, but they couldn't tell me where the padding is so I am assuming top only. I may do as you did for the front if that's the case.

The pictures don't do it justice. You can see the shadow of my hands taking the picture on the dashpod picture. In real life its nice and uniform.

[JeromeS13]

Nice. I'm actually thinking of doing the opposite on mine (doing plastidip on the top and a semi-gloss or full gloss on the front).

[C.Plavan]

Nice. I'm actually thinking of doing the opposite on mine (doing plastidip on the top and a semi-gloss or full gloss on the front).

I was going to do the top in a carbon fiber wrap..... but I was missing 3" of wrap to cover the whole thing in one piece..... Murphy's law!

[freds]

I gave it a good look. No idle problems at all. When its cold, it idles higher, then as it warms up it gets down to around 750 RPM. No jumping or anything.

I just think my lightweight pulley and Flywheel are the cause. I'll bumped up the "warm" RPM's to 900 to see if that will help catch it. I may go a little higher if that does not help.

I have a light weight flywheel and crank pulley. I upped the idle speeds across the board with RomRaider and ECUflash. It helped a bunch, but it is still "iffy" and I get occasional stalls.

I have no air leaks etc. (from pressure tests of the inlet tract.). So I'm going to change to stock flywheel and damped crank pulley. Rapid engine accel. is not as important to me as not worrying about some heel and toe to avoid stalling.

[C.Plavan]

I have a light weight flywheel and crank pulley. I upped the idle speeds across the board with RomRaider and ECUflash. It helped a bunch, but it is still "iffy" and I get occasional stalls.

I have no air leaks etc. (from pressure tests of the inlet tract.). So I'm going to change to stock flywheel and damped crank pulley. Rapid engine accel. is not as important to me as not worrying about some heel and toe to avoid stalling.

Thanks- Just curious what Idle RPMs you set.

[flynntuna]

I was going to do the top in a carbon fiber wrap..... but I was missing 3" of wrap to cover the whole thing in one piece..... Murphy's law!

Plasti dip has a kit for faux carbon fiber.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7N5N-AYaENI

[freds]

Thanks- Just curious what Idle RPMs you set.

There are Three Idle Speed Target maps A, B, and C. The attached picture of the originals on my 06 with DBW.
I have no idea which one the ECU is programmed to use under which (?) circumstances.
So I increased each and every one by 200.
Since I only have a running go-kart and cannot really drive it around and gauge the difference, I cannot comment with any good facts. However it did make it significantly better on my neighborhood "closed circuit".
But it still is inclined to stall like when goosing it as I reverse up my driveway, and have to let up precipitously.

Idle Maps001.jpgIdle Maps001.jpgIdle Maps001.jpg

[Evan78]

I wonder if plastidip would be a good alternative to the typical suede wrap to reduce glare and reflecting in the windshield.

[C.Plavan]

I wonder if plastidip would be a good alternative to the typical suede wrap to reduce glare and reflecting in the windshield.

I think it would be great.

Here is a better picture in the car. Disregard the fiberglass fingerprints from drilling

[Brando]

For your drysump, are you going to use your exhaust, the oil pump, or a vacuum pump to pull the air out of the bottom end effectively?

[C.Plavan]

The Element Dry Sump kit includes a scavenge pump that attached to the A/C bracket. It also utilizes the A/C idler pulley for the belt. So essentially you will have two oil pumps now.




The oil tank that I'm going to have to find a spot for.


***Note- I have been waiting patiently for 3+ weeks for this kit. They told me that they are waiting on the oil tank, and it would be no more that a week from when I ordered. Today, they say it may be another 2 weeks (total 5 weeks from when I ordered AND charged my credit card). I asked them to send me the kit minus the tank so I can at least start installing it. They are supposed to call back and let me know. If they cant, I will be cancelling my order and going with someone different.

[D Clary]

how did you apply the plasti dip?

[C.Plavan]

how did you apply the plasti dip?

Just a normal spray can. I did about 4-5 coats, 10min apart.

[Frank818]

I did about 4-5 coats, 10min apart.

Tnx

[Frank818]

Gold foil on which pipe?
Which gold foil, any Chinese knock-off or there are different grades of that?

[Brando]

The Element Dry Sump kit includes a scavenge pump that attached to the A/C bracket. It also utilizes the A/C idler pulley for the belt. So essentially you will have two oil pumps now.

Cool I get that part, I'm just trying to understand how the vacuum is created.

Is the oil pump responsible for creating that vacuum exclusively? I have read different things on this and trying to get my arms around why some people use the oil pump, some use a vacuum pump while others use the exhaust to get the vacuum to the crank. I have read a dry sump can yield gains of 25HP, which would be a nice added bonus.

That sucks about Element tuning. I sent them an email stressing my concern so hopefully they step up. I told them my order was contingent on yours being expedited.

Sorry for diluting your thread with so many drysump questions.

[C.Plavan]

Gold foil on which pipe?
Which gold foil, any Chinese knock-off or there are different grades of that?

That's not my car. That is someone else's. I have not received my kit yet.

Brandon- No worries. I guess the tank manufacturer is having "employee problems...." Element is sending me a Peterson tank instead. Thanks for the threat, it worked

I finished putting the belts in the car and mounting the dash. I need to install the ignition panel, and some additional gauges.

I also received my Aluminum intrusion plate. I need my buddy to notch it with his Plasma Cutter for the coolant tube near my feet, then I can install that.

Its coming along.