Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[C.Plavan]

Looking real good, couple of questions

(1) s this the only tank required?
(2) How large is it ?
(3) Do you have any pics on how you are going to route the lines ?
(4) Did you pull the engine to install the dry sump on the engine ?

1. Oil tank, yes. I will also have a 1 liter vent can also.
2. Tank is 8qts, but you do not run it full. It is about 6" in diameter not counting the mounts or nozzles. it is around 22" high.
3. I have not routed the lines yet since I needed to mount tank first
4. I'm not pulling the motor to install. Just remove firewall for more access to front of motor. There will be plenty of room to install with motor in.

[FFRSpec72]

4. I'm not pulling the motor to install. Just remove firewall for more access to front of motor. There will be plenty of room to install with motor in.

Thanks much for the answers, on #4 do I assume you are not pulling the engine to remove the oil pan and replace with the dry sump plate (pan, whatever its called)? I'm just trying to see how far I can go on the build before I have to make the choice

[C.Plavan]

You should have plenty of room under the car. I may take off the headers, the hardest part will be getting the Killer B pan off. Besides laying on you back, it should not be too hard.

[bstuke]

Then after that fully weld everything up and we are done.

Can you do two and sell me one please? If I tried to do something like that it would look like a corkscrew..

[Mechie3]

Thanks Guys. I'm really happy with it. My Buddy Andrew thankfully likes doing this kind of stuff. I told him he should make a template and sell it as a kit. But every chassis would be different/not square.

He could make it using rod ends. Fully weld up the majority of the frame and then have it attach via clevis joints and/or rod ends. It allows for differences between various frames, makes it easy to remove if you ever need to, and makes it readily available to others (for a cost, of course).

[FFRSpec72]

He could make it using rod ends. Fully weld up the majority of the frame and then have it attach via clevis joints and/or rod ends. It allows for differences between various frames, makes it easy to remove if you ever need to, and makes it readily available to others (for a cost, of course).

Makes fitting it in a USPS flat rate box easier, now only if the USPS made a flat rate box that big

[D Clary]

Do be carefull not to overfill the tank, ask me how I know. huge mess

[drdracing]

Do you have any specs or plans on the wing support? Thanks, Rick

[C.Plavan]

Do you have any specs or plans on the wing support? Thanks, Rick

Not really- Just taking measurements as we go.

He has no desire in making a "Kit". He says I have a "One Off Custom Design" haha.

I think people should be pressing on FFR for an easier solution. They can cut and weld the pieces at the factory for the R wing mount.

[metalmaker12]

Do be carefull not to overfill the tank, ask me how I know. huge mess

You have to pump it in intervals and be cautious of the amount in tank and how much your putting in.

[C.Plavan]

We added 2 more push bar supports. Andrew fully welded the push bar. Now its time for the full weld, then wing supports. It's just about done.

[C.Plavan]

WE GOT WINGAGE-

Fully welded, holes drilled in wing mounts & pinned for easy removal to open rear trunk. All is left is some plasma cutting of the the wing channels to get rid of some weight, grinder cleanup, and cutting the fiberglass. Wing is securely mounted and stout. Check off one of the hard things to do on the 818R-

[Scargo]

Nice! Looks NASCAR ready and capable of gluing tires to the pavement.

[Rasmus]

Nice work. I like the use of pins for the wing mount in particular.

[C.Plavan]

Nice work. I like the use of pins for the wing mount in particular.

Thanks- I copied that from Brando's fabricator

[metalmaker12]

Nice approach and dual purpose!!!

[Santiago]

Yes! Good to see another DETAILED wing-mount fab job. Looks great.

-j

p.s. - You should caption that first picture: instead of "This is the view most cars will see on track" it should read "This is why you lost to the 818R."

[C.Plavan]

Thanks guys- This really is all my friends work. I'll paint everything once it is back in my garage.

He busted out the plasma cutter.

[Hindsight]

Looking good! Have you chosen a header yet? Sort of seems like you have hit a dead end there.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good! Have you chosen a header yet? Sort of seems like you have hit a dead end there.

I just stayed stock. Its a few pages back. The stock system does not sit too low. I also had it ceramic coated along with an Invidea up pipe.

[Hindsight]

Ah cool. I must have missed it. I was following your other thread on headers while it was active.

I still have to make the choice myself. I am building an S so I'm not quite as sensitive to the headers hanging down so long as it's not too bad. If I remember correctly, you tried and returned a set of Killer-B's because they didn't fit well and you didn't think it was worth it. From all the posts I've seen from the guy who owns Killer-B, it seems like that isn't the norm and I bet he'd probably get you a set with perfect fit if you contacted him directly.... that is, if you aren't 100% sold on sticking with stock indefinitely.

[Brando]

That came out great! That picture makes your 818 look so meaty.
I bet you are glad to check that one off the list.
I like how you incorporated the bumper I am going to borrow that from you.

[longislandwrx]

Step up your game Chad.

s.jpg

http://gizmodo.com/t-rex-skull-showe...-pr-1651265059

[C.Plavan]

Step up your game Chad.

s.jpg

http://gizmodo.com/t-rex-skull-showe...-pr-1651265059

Yeah- My wife would love that. haha

My 8 year old- Sure would!

[C.Plavan]

More pics:

[Santiago]

Chad, just as a heads up, make sure those pins are a tight fit.

Years ago there was a case of an APR wing failing at speed due to what some suspect was excessive flex caused by an unusually high mount that was custom fabricated by the user (this was on Phil's car [of Element Tuning]). You might want to ask him about it directly, since there were a lot of armchair evaluations going on at the time. But one school of thought was that because the stanchions were too high (and really, just not properly supported either at the base or via cross-wires), they allowed a lot of lateral movement under load which eventually overstressed the carbon fiber wing mounts APR supplied. Here was the end result:

wingfailure2.jpg

The APR-defenders pointed out that their design works fine so long as the wing isn't wobbling about and is installed according to their parameters. Personally, I'm inclined to think this is correct, since there are an awful lot of APR wings out there that haven't seen such failures as installed with their mounts.

Whatever the cause in that case, I figure it can't be good practice to have a wing stanchion mount that allows the stanchion itself to flex side to side much. That will lead to the carbon fiber wing mounts taking extra stress. If the quick release pins are not firmly holding them in place, you might want to consider reverting back to bolts.

Best,
-j

[C.Plavan]

Chad, just as a heads up, make sure those pins are a tight fit.

Years ago there was a case of an APR wing failing at speed due to what some suspect was excessive flex caused by an unusually high mount that was custom fabricated by the user (this was on Phil's car [of Element Tuning]). You might want to ask him about it directly, since there were a lot of armchair evaluations going on at the time. But one school of thought was that because the stanchions were too high (and really, just not properly supported either at the base or via cross-wires), they allowed a lot of lateral movement under load which eventually overstressed the carbon fiber wing mounts APR supplied. Here was the end result:

wingfailure2.jpg

The APR-defenders pointed out that their design works fine so long as the wing isn't wobbling about and is installed according to their parameters. Personally, I'm inclined to think this is correct, since there are an awful lot of APR wings out there that haven't seen such failures as installed with their mounts.

Whatever the cause in that case, I figure it can't be good practice to have a wing stanchion mount that allows the stanchion itself to flex side to side much. That will lead to the carbon fiber wing mounts taking extra stress. If the quick release pins are not firmly holding them in place, you might want to consider reverting back to bolts.

Best,
-j

I hear what you are saying. That would suck. We designed it that there was no play between the wing stanchion and wing channels. It does not move one bit. The bottom on the stanchions is also flat on the channel, no gap.
Even in terms of the pins, Andrew welded up washers on the pin holes as added strength from any movement while maintaining alignment if taking the wing off a lot. I don't see any issue with the way it is now. I can't wait to test it out.

[Santiago]

Sounds good. I thought there was some sort of bushing/washer action going on around those pins. =)

-j

[nkw8181]

Am I correct in assuming that you must remove the trannt first and then the engine due the additional bars?

[MrDude_1]

Am I correct in assuming that you must remove the trannt first and then the engine due the additional bars?

You just unbolt the additional bars, then pull it out like you normally would. If you look carefully a few pics up, you can see how its bolted onto the frame. Only tabs for the bolts are welded on to the car permanently.

[C.Plavan]

You just unbolt the additional bars, then pull it out like you normally would. If you look carefully a few pics up, you can see how its bolted onto the frame. Only tabs for the bolts are welded on to the car permanently.

Correct. There is no difference in removing the motor/trans once the wing mount is unbolted. The front of the mount is welded to the removable FFR shock tower brace. The back is bolted on through tabs we welded on. The rear tabs are at an angle, so you have to remove the whole wing mount by pulling straight up once all bolts are removed.

So if I ever have to remove the motor/trans (hopefully never!) there are only two additional bolts to remove over the stock way.

[nkw8181]

That is awesome! But dang you note something else to consider.I don't never a wing but if I put the bracket then then I have i if I want it:-)

[Mechie3]

That is awesome! But dang you note something else to consider.I don't never a wing but if I put the bracket then then I have i if I want it:-)

Go home Nolan, you're drunk. hahaha

[Pearldrummer7]

Go home Nolan, you're drunk. hahaha

haha^^

[nkw8181]

Go home Nolan, you're drunk. hahaha

I want to go home but to work on the car... Not drink (unless that becomes a result)

Ok that was pretty funny. And that is what I get for trusting predictive text. (I proof read my post this time to make sure it didn't change on me) but makes for a funny read :-D

[C.Plavan]

Tada-

[Mechie3]

Very nice. That hood needs some louvers.

[metros]

Looks good!

[C.Plavan]

Yes, I need those louvers- haha.


Some final pictures of the rear end detail. Andrew added two tabs to help support the rear bumper (Better than just the rivets under the bumper or side pod bolts). I will drill a hole and throw a bolt through it later, but it really stiffens up the rear bumper mounting.

Andrew also extended the rear bumper push bar on each side. This will help if someone tries to PIT maneuver me :P

Car is coming home tomorrow. Then I can paint the new bars, finalize the AWIC and dry sump install. My excitement has been renewed.

[metros]

The whole wing support looks excellent. Looks to be really good quality as well.

Just noticed you have the same compressor as I do. Very nice machines.