Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[xxguitarist]

I have been thinking that there would be benefit to an actual race setup/results/experiences thread- Either combined autox & road course, or segregated. We have something like 75 minutes of race-pace autoX time on our car now, though it's still "naked", and we've learned a lot about it in that time.

[dpalm]

Does anyone have for sale some front lower control arm spacers for the 818R? (C.Plavan's November 2013 post # 137 mentions that he had some extras that he could sell.)

Duncan

[C.Plavan]

Does anyone have for sale some front lower control arm spacers for the 818R? (C.Plavan's November 2013 post # 137 mentions that he had some extras that he could sell.)

Duncan

I never made another batch because of the minimum. I'm all out.

[Scargo]

As to Tamra and Andrew's suggestion I would hope that specifics get put in the "R", discussions area. It is easy for good data to get lost.
To Chad's effort and your documentation and videos, I commend your effort. Bravo!
I know full-well how much time and energy goes into taking photos, videos, etc. and editing and publishing. Could be time spent working on the car...
Still, I am a believer of sharing and helping and that it's good Karma! At 68, I feel like I want to help the youngsters when I can.
Like Chad, we have learned by the school of hard knocks. He's an explorer.

[C.Plavan]

I made my oil cooler box with Incoming air ducts for the 3" hose. I plan on insulating it with reflective tape. I'll redo the side air intakes once the new side scoops arrive.

I also have Mechie's bigger rear vent coming. I'm hopeful that will help cool things off also.

[C.Plavan]

I could not live with myself if I left the "Fun Pool Noodle" Track Hack on. It was a track fix for the radiator to hood air block off. I made a proper aluminum one. Fits great.


It was the one of many things I did at the track to fix the overheating. However, it was the opening of the bottom aluminum pan louvers and removing a little tape from the splitter that did the trick to cure that problem.

[C.Plavan]

Say "No" to high intake temps. After trying three different spots (Pre-side scoops), this is the winner. It will have no issues sucking in cold air.

[Wayne Presley]

Say "No" to high intake temps. After trying three different spots (Pre-side scoops), this is the winner. It will have no issues sucking in cold air.

you're going to have to fully sealed that into the engine compartment as you want no flame path between you and the motor

[bstuke]

Nice!

[Scargo]

"Cool" idea! Chad, I think it needs a bullet head on it!
Perhaps more directed at Wayne, but I plan on having my STi intercooler there and a cover for the passenger side. If my intercooler air dumps into the engine compartment would I need to do something about the potential of flames coming out through it?

[C.Plavan]

you're going to have to fully sealed that into the engine compartment as you want no flame path between you and the motor

I have the aluminum for it. It's on my list. I'm just more concerned about getting the heat problems managed first. That is what the fire system is for, and I will just drive faster if I see flames back there

[C.Plavan]

Aluminum oil cooler insulated box installed. Insulated with 2000 degree reflective fiberglass tape. Mechie's new rear top louver is on the way to also help with the heat.



On Monday, I should get Kurk818's Scoops. I will tie in the 3" duct hose with the scoops and a connector duct. (Disregard the duct hose spaghetti back there, I need to trim the hose and make a better path- it's just laying there for now.)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Aluminum oil cooler insulated box installed. Insulated with 2000 degree reflective fiberglass tape. Mechie's new rear top louver is on the way to also help with the heat.



On Monday, I should get Kurk818's Scoops. I will tie in the 3" duct hose with the scoops and a connector duct. (Disregard the duct hose spaghetti back there, I need to trim the hose and make a better path- it's just laying there for now.)

Chad
Have you considered adding an electric radiator fan to push hot air out of the back of the car?
Bob

[Mechie3]

Chad, the louver shipped out Weds am via USPS. It will probably arrive tomorrow. It was sent priority. When it comes, use the brace as a guide to get the right bend angle. Once bent, it might need a burr or two removed that couldn't be reached with it in the flat position. Insert the first fin into the brace and then work your way back. Once they were all sitting in place I stood it up on end (wide end on the table with the outside frame touching) and tapped on the flat end of the brace while holding one fin at a time starting from the front. The brace for the first two prototypes (yours and mine) was tighter than my second round test which is why the hammer is needed to tap it in place. Even though it's tight, either weld it or epoxy the brace on with panel bond from the underside.

Cut out the entire deep depression and most of the shallow depression. The last fin should hang 1/2 over the shallow depression for looks. If you want to cut it open more you could.

[icky]

Say "No" to high intake temps. After trying three different spots (Pre-side scoops), this is the winner. It will have no issues sucking in cold air.

You're on speed density, right?

[C.Plavan]

No SD. Tuner said we could, but for what we are doing (detuning) he said it really didn't matter either way.

[C.Plavan]

Chad
Have you considered adding an electric radiator fan to push hot air out of the back of the car?
Bob

I'm hoping the scoops will alleviate that. Going fast on a race course, you would think air flow would not be that big of a deal with all the 818R openings.

[C.Plavan]

Mechie's New rear vent louvers on. It looks really good. It is much bigger too which is great.









Sorry for the crappy pictures. I'll take some better ones outside this week.

[Hindsight]

Sigh.

*Gets out wallet*

[Kurk818]

You'll love the scoops. I went for a 35 mile drive yesterday with no other cutouts besides the opening for the RMIC, the preintake temps were in the 70s with the hot side in the up to 180* at times.

Its a blast to drive

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You'll love the scoops. I went for a 35 mile drive yesterday with no other cutouts besides the opening for the RMIC, the preintake temps were in the 70s with the hot side in the up to 180* at times.

Its a blast to drive

Great news Kurk,
Do you have wheel wells and floor sheet metal in?
Bob

[Kurk818]

[QUOTE=Bob_n_Cincy;197086][QUOTE=Kurk818;197084]You'll love the scoops. I went for a 35 mile drive yesterday with no other cutouts besides the opening for the RMIC, the preintake temps were in the 70s with the hot side in the up to 180* at times.

Its a blast to drive

Great news Kurk,
Do you have wheel wells and floor sheet metal in?
Bob

Everything is in. Very minor rubbing on the outer lip fiberglass on hard cornering in the front with 255s. Im not complaining

[Canadian818]

Chad, have you considered using a different mesh on the back bumper that will flow more? Have you tried just removing it at the track? That might be a huge contributing factor in the overheating problem.

Also, both Mechie's louvers and kurts scoops look great!

[C.Plavan]

Chad, have you considered using a different mesh on the back bumper that will flow more? Have you tried just removing it at the track? That might be a huge contributing factor in the overheating problem.

Also, both Mechie's louvers and kurts scoops look great!

This mesh is really open. Its not the restrictive FFR supplied kind.

[Frank818]

Wow, you seem to have a lot of heat problems. Really nice to see all the solutions put together.

Say, you fitted the under radiator alu panel WITH the race splitter? I thought the splitter was replacing the louvered under radiator panel.

[Mechie3]

The under aluminum is really needed to support the side radiator aluminum pieces.

[C.Plavan]

Just some teaser pictures-

Kirk818's scoops came today. They are excellent quality and the fit so far is great. I'm not just saying that. The quality and finish is better than my 818R fiberglass. I wanted everyone to know that I paid for these scoops also, so I'm not biased

There are a few different ways to mount them. I have only worked on one side tonight, and have not finished it completely. The 3" duct hose to my oil cooler box fits in the top part of the scoop perfectly. I plan on painting the inside of the scoops Matt Black. The white gelcoat is a perfect match to the body.

I also requested him leave the bottom lip of the scoop on, it adds another 5/8" of "Air Grab" to the bottom of the vent. You can see on his 818 the bottom of the scoop is flush, mine has that lip. Enough talk-

[Hindsight]

Looking good. Is there enough room in the side sail to recess the area toward the inside of the scoop more inward to help create more of a low pressure area and a larger opening like a naca duct? It would obviously require some fiberglass fab work.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good. Is there enough room in the side sail to recess the area toward the inside of the scoop more inward to help create more of a low pressure area and a larger opening like a naca duct? It would obviously require some fiberglass fab work.

I guess that would be possible. There is alot of room under there. When cutting the side sails even more, I was careful to watch for my IC and coolant lines with my body saw.

[Hindsight]

At some point I would really love to see something like this (from a scoop standpoint). You could do it without the deep door recess by simply making the scoop larger and and extending out to the same width as the edge of the fender flares. It would be a bigger piece to make and bolt on, of course:
Yellow-Lamborghini-Aventador-Roadster.jpg

[C.Plavan]

KAAA CHOW!

[D Clary]

Hey Chad did the rear links cure the tire rub? Any idea where you are with ride height. I do appreciate you R&D. Work has been very busy and I am still a couple of months from road worthy.

[Scargo]

I think that Kirk's side scoops will be a big improvement. They look like they should be an improvement. I know that the interior (to the frame) has room for the fiberglass to move inward well over an inch. This might well help in addition to his bigger scoop, but as discussed there are aero issues that need to be addressed so the airflow is not too turbulent when it gets there.
Everything about Kirk's scoop appeals to me except for the detail at the top. All the other lines flow well; the top does not. Purely cosmetic, but it does not work for me.

[DMC7492]

Hey Scargo I think the issue with the top of the air scoop isthe drivers side fuel filler, to go higher and more contoured to match the rear quarter the filler needs to be shaved, now if a guy had a front fuel tank or fuel cell this could change the shape of the scoop. Let's see how well this design works. Then make some changes if needed.
image.jpg

[sponaugle]

That looks awesome! I'm glad I am getting a set of those side scoops!

[Kurk818]

That looks awesome! I'm glad I am getting a set of those side scoops!

I should have yours ready to ship Friday.

[Mechie3]

The very top line of the scoops was made (I'm assuming) to match the slight depression already in the body work from FFR. The FFR side inlets look a bit like a converging nozzle going front to back while the top of the side sail is a a diverging nozzle.

[Mitch Wright]

Good looking race car Chad.

[C.Plavan]

Hey Chad did the rear links cure the tire rub? Any idea where you are with ride height. I do appreciate you R&D. Work has been very busy and I am still a couple of months from road worthy.

Nothing worth mentioning yet. I keep changing things. I ordered some new springs front and rear and will be trying those out also. 300/500 is too soft in my opinion, with too much body roll. I may have to try a few sets of springs out, good thing springs are not that expensive. I see double adjustable shocks in my future, if these shocks cant handle stiffer springs.

I have to look at the rubbing- I have not even checked that yet.

[C.Plavan]

Good looking race car Chad.

Thanks- I just wish it ran as good as it looks..... All in due time I guess.