I'm pretty sure you can disable the codes that it'll kick out and it will not put you into limp mode. At least that's how I'm running with my '06 WRX ECU/wiring and a 2012 WRX transmission (no transmission mounted VSS, as well).
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I'm pretty sure you can disable the codes that it'll kick out and it will not put you into limp mode. At least that's how I'm running with my '06 WRX ECU/wiring and a 2012 WRX transmission (no transmission mounted VSS, as well).
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Ok- I think tomorrow is the day! Engine start time!!!
Today I did the following:
1- Filled fuel cell with some gas
2. Filled it with oil
3. Filled it with distilled water that my wife ran to the store for!
4. Installed the headers and up pipe
5. Installed the new TMIC and hoses
6. Made the stainless braided fuel lines and drilled holes through lower firewall to run them through
7. Tested my own connector for the Fuel Safe in tank pump. Works!
I'm just waiting for a Boost Solenoid to show up tomorrow so i can install that. I cant wait
I do have a few questions on the degas tank in the back. Do I fill that with any water? or only fill through the radiator? I'm an air cooled guy!
Any tips before starting her up?
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
have a mechanically inclined buddy double check your work. hoses tight, bolts tight. etc etc don't tell him " I checked that already" let him give it a real once over.
fill up your transmission with the right amount of gear oil.. Wayne and Jerome both mentioned it. make sure your clutch is bled and working and trans is actually in neutral.
prime the oil system/turbo... pull the IGN fuse, or whatever yours is labeled now and crank a few times, wait a minute and crank some more...unless you are running your dry sump right away... if so it probably came with specific oiling instructions.
check for fuel leaks around rails and injectors.
yes top off the degas tank... when you fire up for the first time it will be quite stormy in there... like "oh no I have a bad head gasket bubbly", but it will calm down. fill your overflows up 25% then adjust after you've ran for a few minutes.
have a fire extinguisher/hose handy and do your first startup outside... just in case.
fire it up.
scare neighbors... er neighbor?
Last edited by longislandwrx; 07-17-2014 at 06:53 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Awesome Chad, hope you can get a video clip of it. Are you pulling the motor the do the dry sump or attempting to do it with the motor in? You didn't already get it in did you?!?
I jack the front up and fill the radiator then cap. After I fill my degas, leave cap off and fire it up. I let my degas settle then bring the motor up to 3k RPM then back to idle. That seemed to force the gas out. Once it almost overflows I take it up to 3k one last time which will stuff more than half the fluid in the degas into the cooling system. I top it off then I put the cap on before letting off throttle.
Another set of helping hands works best.
There might be a better way but this has worked quite well for me and i have drained and refilled the system quite a few times now
Look forward to hearing about your first start
Last edited by Brando; 07-17-2014 at 10:21 AM.
Thanks Jeff and Brandon- I have not put the dry sump on yet. I have not received it. I figured I would break it in with the Killer B stuff now. I'm pretty sure I can install the dry sump with the motor in the car. I'll know more once it arrives, but if the firewall is off, and my race seat is out, it should not be too hard. I'm just not looking forward to buying all the AN fitting$.
I'll try to get a video later today. Just waiting on that one part showing up today.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
you can start it with the wastegate connected. It'll peak out at 5-7psi. In the factory setup that is a bleedoff setup the solenoid holds the wastegate shut by bleeding off air from the line connecting the compressor to the actuator. If there's no solenoid the spring can't hold more than the 5-7. In a three port setup (non bleed off) you can't do that. If a three port fails the wastegate never opens and your motor could pop. I haven't read of any 3 port failures though.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
also make sure you or AJW did this too:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Info_SubaruOil
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Good call. I'll double check that.
I received the stock Solenoid....... Confused on how to hook it up. I cant find good pictures on the internet. Plus, the two hoses I thought it goes on are pretty small, and one is hard plastic on the end of the hose. I need a little help.
Which hose goes on this T also?
So close... but I have to work.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
post 10
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2075804
that T most likely went to a boost gauge.
Last edited by longislandwrx; 07-17-2014 at 01:49 PM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
You need the larger rubber connecting hose to fit onto the solenoid to the whitish plastic connector nipples
image.jpg.
The T is for a boost gauge, which you should install along with many others as you intend I am sure .
Ps the arm intakes are finicky and have a untunable dead spot just had it for fitment cause I had not purchased my Cobb in the pic
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
should be the same. looks like yours just has a 90 instead of a straight.
I think the newer cars came with that style.
here this will help.
http://blog.perrinperformance.com/bo...lained-part-2/
Last edited by longislandwrx; 07-17-2014 at 04:36 PM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Well here it is. Its running! Kind of a disappointing video, no fire, no leaks, no explosions....... Now I can start tidying it up! Such a good feeling.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Great job Chad, Is it ready for a drive around the block?
When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
iWire Subaru Wiring Services
Over 100 Custom 818 Wiring Harnesses Built
http://www.iwireservices.com/factory...18-wiring-kits
[email protected]
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
best sounding startup video yet. congrats man. you should be very proud.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Congrats Chad, soon driveable, soon you'll have real fun, no disappointments.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I am unsure which solenoid you have because as far as I know the wrx and Sti ones look like what I have. Maybe I just never came across the style you have.. Idk
Oem ones all look like this 02-07
image.jpg
Last edited by metalmaker12; 07-18-2014 at 10:22 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
06/07 WRX and 07 STi both use that newer style boost controller that Mechie posted.
When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
iWire Subaru Wiring Services
Over 100 Custom 818 Wiring Harnesses Built
http://www.iwireservices.com/factory...18-wiring-kits
[email protected]
You must be smiling. Milestone complete. Props
It must be the later half of 06, cause some have my style. Thanks for the clarification!
Awesome! Great job. Can't wait to get there myself.
Because of all the help here I got it running. You guys are great. These Subi motors and turbo's are a whole different ballgame that what I know.
I worked pretty much all day yesterday on it. My goal was to throw the seat and shifter back in and terrorize my "Private Track"
I busted out the camber gauge, toe plates, measuring tapes, and levels and gave it an alignment. I will throw it on a rack later to finish caster, but I have it pretty maxed out.
I went with these as a baseline:
Front -3.0 camber/ 1/16th toe out
Rear -2.5 camber/ 3/16th toe in
height 3.5"
I have scales, but there is no need to corner balance yet since the body is not on.
I finished torquing all the suspension parts to their final torque.
I installed the trimmed fiberglass cowl, and the relocated master cylinder reservoir. I ran the feed lines to the MC. That all came out great. I was getting ready to bleed the brakes for the first time, but I noticed one of my union fittings was leaking - I'm going to have to make a new line today and try again. Fingers crossed that today I can drive it.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Exciting man, congrats , I will be back to this step soon when I uninstall my motor and put it back in under a new beginning.
Chad, you were asking about the total height of my quik latch assembly. This gives you an idea of maximum extension with a reasonable amount of thread engagement.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Yep, I ordered 10 of the black mini latches, 4 of the elongated studs, and 10 of the tensioning springs. With these bolt brackets that I made I don't think the elongated studs will be necessary anywhere. I'm planning to make some front hinges for the hood and only use 8 mini latches total.
I had the gas filler anodized black to somewhat resemble the mini latches. I chose type 3 anodizing so it will hold up better to the gas nozzle. This makes the finish a a little flatter than what is on the mini latches. I still need to get matching hardware, although I don't think the stainless looks terrible.
I just drove it....... Whoa, this is going to be fun! I'm still breaking in the motor, so I could not go crazy.
I need to break in the brakes more- Which is normal because everything is all new. The K-tuned shifter is awesome. Everything held together after "1 Lap". Security guard gave me a thumbs up.
The one problem is it stalls when coming to a stop. I'm hoping it is just the ECU learning, if not it could be a function of not having a VSS. It did throw that code along with a few others (air pump- which I removed) high fuel pressure and hot fuel or something like that. Temp was steady right below halfway.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Good job!
You have no ISV?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Thanks! What is ISV?
Here is the first drive and "Lap" in the 818R. I was breaking in the brakes, testing out the shifter. I was trying to keep it under 3500-4000. It sure is fast from what I can tell. I just gave it a little "Stomp" at the end.
I was giving a thumbs up back to the security guard in the video. I keep looking back to make sure I'm not on fire...lol. No rear view mirror.... You can see the stalling when coming to a stop. I think it is my lightweight flywheel too.
EDIT- I have the Spot Meter switched on (Gopro)- I usually have it in the coupe, so it compensates for the darkness inside. That is why the video is so washed out. I need to remember to turn it off when filming in the 818R.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 07-21-2014 at 08:31 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)