Replicaparts.com 818 build thread

[RM1SepEx]

because if you don't you can't get an even space, the hood touches on both sides... Aloha818 did the same thing

[metalmaker12]

I didn't have an issue, I am really unsure of why it's needed, though I like it too.

[michael everson]

I did it so that I could hinge it. If you look back thruogh my build site, you will see it.
Mike

[metalmaker12]

I did it so that I could hinge it. If you look back thruogh my build site, you will see it.
Mike

I know why you did it mike, just trying to understand what Dan means. What up man, weather breaks I am driving my 818 up to ya to check out what your doing.

[RM1SepEx]

He cut the hood to make it shorter to not hinge it at the front edge. There is very tight clearance because of how the nose is molded too narrow and as it hinges the hood interferes with the nose.

Check Aloha818 build thread, I found the same thing, if you mount the hood so that it is even with the front of the car it is too wide and you can't hold a consistent 1/8 gap EVERY FFR car has the hood mounted a little bit back to avoid any interference with the hood and nose. I'm hinging mine, but with my new panels I'm going to get a bit fancier than what I did with the hood that now resides at FFR. My new hood and nose have the exact same issue as the originals. The returns under the hood hit the sides of the nose. Aloha split his nose panel a wee bit to add hood clearance. I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to do rev II

I like your pegs Chris, I can see how the hood could either hinge or be lifted off with some shoulder bolts sticking out of the side.

I just put it back on jack stands today to start seriously working on remounting my new panels.

[AZPete]

As Dan wrote, I think Mike cut the front of his hood so he could hinge it. But, I don't see any detail in this build thread so, Mike, could you please explain or post photos of your front hood hinge?
Dan, Aloha didn't hinge the front hood but made internal brackets to hold it on. I found this on Aloha Build Thread, page 13, post #490. Maybe I'll do that but ideally someone (Mike?) will come out with a front hood hinge for sale.

[07FIREBLADE]

Front hood hinge for sale done deal. Take my money

[RM1SepEx]

Aloha818 didn't hinge it but he cut the sides of the front nose to keep even gaps, as molded, the hood is too wide at the front where it meets the nose. If you try to hinge it at the front point it rubs due to the interference and the angles of the return of the hood. Rather than deal with that Mike cut off the front of his hood and spliced it into the nose. Notice that it leaves a consistent gap. Then he hinged it in back of the place where he cut it. It does show some shots of his custom bent hinges in his thread

[michael everson]

Here is a link to the hood hinge thread. I didn't realize I had a separate thread for that.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ght=hood+hinge

[AZPete]

Thanks, Mike, for the link to the hood hinge thread. I had forgotten about that as it was past my limited memory span, I guess.
I repeat: Get to work on a front hinge for sale! There's so much demand that you'll be able to retire to Monte Carlo and own an F1 team! Really.

[Frank818]

I repeat: Get to work on a front hinge for sale!

I second that!!

There's so much demand that you'll be able to retire to Monte Carlo and own an F1 team! Really.

Marussia?

[michael everson]

Here is a step by step of how I am mounting my grilles. This will allow me to remove them for paint if I ever get that far.



First step is to cut the perforated material a little smaller than the trim ring.



Next lay both pieces in the recess and line them up so that they fit well and no perforated material is shown around the edges. Mark any 2 holes through the perforated material.



Remove the trim ring and drill the holes you plan to use to bolt it down. I drilled them the same size as the existing holes. 3/16 diameter.



Put the trim ring back in and mark where the body needs to be cut.



Next counter sink the holes that you transferred to the body. I used 6-32 flat head screws.



After all the holes were countersunk, I powder coated both pieces semi gloss black

[michael everson]

After the powder coating has cooled, epoxy the 6-32 screws in the holes you counter sunk.





Run a bead of black silicone around the perimeter of the trim ring and place it on top of the perforated material and clamp in place.



Here is a different panel installed on the car. Just unbolt and remove if needed.
This opening still needs final trimming.
Mike

[Scargo]

I like this a lot. Looks good! Do you mind sharing the perforation size/spacing or whatever you call the spec of the material?

[michael everson]

Scargo, it just the stuff that comes with the kit.
mike

[Scargo]

I guess I should unpack all my stuff!
In my defense, I think that the S is very different from an R. I don't know what those differences are.

[matteo92065]

Thanks for the tips. I'll do this to my rear vent this weekend.

[michael everson]

Started working on the rear wheel wells today. Once these are riveted and installed, there is no way to remove them. The upper mounting tab will be inaccessible once riveted together. I decided to cut the tab off and make a removable mount.











Now I can remove the wheel well as one piece if ever needed.






I have the wiper kit completely installed and working. Works pretty good.

[michael everson]

Here are some pics of how the car looks today. Not too much left to do. Pretty short list.

Install door panels
install hood pins on both rear decks
Install pins on back of hood.
Install outside mirrors
Install inside mirror.
I think that's about it.
My plan is to put it up for sale as soon as its finished. I will sell it unpainted, and let the next person decide the color. The reason I am going to do this, is because I really want to build a hard top version.
I think it might be easier to start from scratch and make it a permanent hardtop.
Mike

[Kalstar]

Still love those wheels.

[michael everson]

I am not a big fan of them. Especially once I accidently knocked one over. The spokes stick out so far that when I knocked it over, it scraped all the paint off them. Hitting a curb would do some serious damage to them.
Mike

[wallace18]

Nice job Mike.

[tmoretta]

Mike. Is your remote brake reservoir kit now available with the mount to adapt to the wiper kit (as shown in your pic.)? If so I want it.

[michael everson]

Started working on the interior door panels.



I started by insulating the inside of the doors. I did this for road noise. It also gives the door I nice solid feel when you close them.

Trial fit the door panel and drill the mounting holes.

Check the fit of your aluminum inserts. If you have the padded panels your aluminum probably wont fit. I had to trim all fours sides to get them just right.








Use the aluminum insert to mark the location of the door handles.
Once this is marked. Use the actual door handle and make the opening bigger so that you can get the door panel off without removing the handle. You will thank yourself for this later. The aluminum panel will cover the hole.



Here is the handle with aluminum insert installed in the panel.





Here is the finished product. Start to finish was probably 6 hours. I suspect the second side will take half that.
I decided to hit the insert and the door pull with a scuffing pad and then clear powder coat them.

[Hindsight]

Looks nice Mike!

[svanlare]

Looking very good. Thanks for posting all the details!

[Frank818]

6h for one door?? Wow that's pretty quick! I think it'll take me 25h for one door.

That reminds I haven't saved the donor's rear door hinges. Gotta call my Subaru dealer and order 4. Damn it.