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Thread: Chassis Dolly

  1. #1
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Chassis Dolly

    I made this chassis dolly but don't laugh at the extra holes and splices because I made it from the AJW crate wood. This holds the chassis at the engine mount cross bar so I can add the engine and transaxle without it becoming tippy to the back, and it's much more stable than jack stands. The bottom of the frame is 16" above the floor and easy to crawl under. As I did with a roadster, I'll have the engine running and about everything else installed before I have to buy wheels/tires and lower it from the dolly. To remove the dolly, I made the four blocks removable so I can put my jack on some 2x8's to reach the frame, jack it up, remove the blocks, lower it to the base cross piece, jack it up again and remove the dolly from the side. If you will have Stewart deliver your 818, I suggest you don't mount the small 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks but just have the driver set the frame on the four blocks. Roll it into your garage, remove the body panels, position it exactly and then screw on the small blocks to lock it in. You can probably improve upon this design so please post what I should have done.
    Pete




    9/16: See Post #19 for slight revision
    7/22/14: another slight revision. Others have good suggestions so read through this thread before sawing 7 bolting.
    Last edited by AZPete; 07-22-2014 at 05:54 PM. Reason: revision note, correct dimension
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  2. #2
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    Nice recycling project, I knew these cars were green!
    Doug

  3. #3
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    Nice job. I built a similar dolly for my MK2 that was very useful. Thanks for the dimensions.

    Larry

  4. #4
    Senior Member Turboguy's Avatar
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    You sure that thing is going to hold 1,800 lbs? Safely?

  5. #5
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    Hi Pete,

    Keeping to the KISS principle, I see. like the removable adaptors. You said you were going to use that crate wood from AJW so you did. The only thing I would suggest is to add a few "through" bolts with washers on both sides to strengthen the cross pieces unless I missed that in the pic. Good luck with the upcoming build. WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  6. #6
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    Pete, don't throw it out when you are done, I may want to borrow/buy it from you for when my kit arrives later next year.
    Pat

  7. #7
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Tguy: Hold 1,800 lbs? Each wheel is rated at 450 lbs . . . 6 X 450 =2,700. I can climb all over it or sit on the door sill and it doesn't tip.
    Remember the Top Gear episode building a Caterham on jack stands? Jerome: "I was under it just a minute ago!"

    WEK: There are lag screws from the bottom and the force on the backbone isn't much because the weight is held by the front and rear cross arms. On my roadster chassis dolly I had trouble getting it down so this time I made removable blocks, which shows that old guys can learn a few things from lots of mistakes.

    Pat, sure you can use it. I'll try to keep the blood stains to a minimum.
    Pete
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  8. #8
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Don't laugh??? Hell, I'm going to COPY it, using the wood from MY Donor Crates. Thanks for the idea -- AND for the dimensions. Neat idea!

  9. #9
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Pete:

    I can't tell for sure from the photo -- For the lower portion of the central backbone -- Is that a single 2 X 8, or did you bolt together (side by side) a couple of the 3 X 4's from the crates?

    The 22" gap you identified clearly relates to the distance between the blocks on the REAR crossmember. What's the gap between the blocks on the FRONT crossmember?

    Do you buy all six casters with the built-in locking brake? Or did you use the brakeless version also?

    And is there any particular reason that the blocks are 6" high at the rear but only 5" high at the front? Is that just to make it easier to attach the 2" X 2" positioning pieces?
    Last edited by Silvertop; 09-06-2013 at 07:27 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Silvertop,
    1.The backbone has several pieces of the crate wood screwed and glued together. The crates had more 2x8s than used here but I am keeping some for other uses like raising my floor jack to reach the frame on the dolly. Just screw & glue together what you have and then explain to all that it was made on the Range (Oofta, it's Minnesota humor meaning the Iron Range up north).
    2. The gap between the front blocks can go as wide as 50" but is not specific because the front part of the cockpit floor is 50" wide and flat so anywhere is fine. The reason for the little 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks is to keep the flat bottom from sliding on the front blocks, plus I used a tacky shelf liner on the front blocks though inner tube rubber would be better.
    3. The casters are from my roadster dolly and are 3 swivel/3 non-swivel and 2 of the swiveling casters have lever brakes. The caster brake is nice but certainly not necessary. Wait for when these are on sale at Harbor Freight. I think they go for about $9.99 and maybe slightly more for the swivel or swivel/brake types. Then after you are done with this dolly save them for other projects.
    4. The 818 frame has a cross bar at the engine mounts that is 1 inch above the bottom of the cockpit area so the rear blocks of the dolly have to be 1 inch higher than the front blocks to maintain the frame in a level position.
    5. Perhaps you can improve upon this. Beer can holders?
    Pete

    9/7 correction: "da Range" is the correct name for that area of nordern minisoata
    Last edited by AZPete; 09-07-2013 at 12:55 PM. Reason: translation
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  11. #11
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    Having lived in Minnesota for 6 years and 4 of those in Duluth I got the "Made on the Range" comment. LOL

  12. #12
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch Wright View Post
    Having lived in Minnesota for 6 years and 4 of those in Duluth I got the "Made on the Range" comment. LOL
    Yes, I got that too. I grew up in Duluth. But we always used the inflection "Da Range".
    Last edited by Silvertop; 09-06-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Silvertop,
    1.The backbone has several pieces of the crate wood screwed and glued together. The crates had more 2x8s than used here but I am keeping some for other uses like raising my floor jack to reach the frame on the dolly. Just screw & glue together what you have and then explain to all that it was made on the Range (Oofta, it's Minnesota humor meaning the Iron Range up north).
    2. The gap between the front blocks can go as wide as 50" but is not specific because the front part of the cockpit floor is 50" wide and flat so anywhere is fine. The reason for the little 2x2 pieces on the rear blocks is to keep the flat bottom from sliding on the front blocks, plus I used a tacky shelf liner on the front blocks though inner tube rubber would be better.
    3. The casters are from my roadster dolly and are 3 swivel/3 non-swivel and 2 of the swiveling casters have lever brakes. The caster brake is nice but certainly not necessary. Wait for when these are on sale at Harbor Freight. I think they go for about $9.99 and maybe slightly more for the swivel or swivel/brake types. Then after you are done with this dolly save them for other projects.
    4. The 818 frame has a cross bar at the engine mounts that is 1 inch above the bottom of the cockpit area so the rear blocks of the dolly have to be 1 inch higher than the front blocks to maintain the frame in a level position.
    5. Perhaps you can improve upon this. Beer can holders?
    Pete
    Thanks, Pete. I'll let you know if I come up with any improvements. And I appreciate the Iron Range humor. As a former Duluth Resident, we loved to haze our neighbors to the north on "Da Range".

  14. #14
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Pete

    Have you worked on your kit enough to determine if you are happy with the overall height of your chassis dolly? I'm considering adding another layer of 2 X 8 to the support blocks in order to add another approximate 2" to the existing 16" clearance underneath the chassis to make it easier to work underneath -- but not if it is likely to make working on the rest of the car uncomfortably high. Just looking for an opinion here. I know there are also easy ways that I can raise the whole assembly up temporarily if I need to work extensively under the car. How's it working out?
    Last edited by Silvertop; 09-08-2013 at 10:30 AM.

  15. #15
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    So far I haven't done much to the bottom but I've installed the front firewall, front suspension and now the steering rack. I find it's a nice height for the HB shop stool I have. I think if you raise yours up more it would only be better because you'll easily reach the upper parts. It's not like you'll be working on a sunroof so everything will still be in reach. Maybe today I'll drop the engine/transaxle in. Maybe.
    Pete

    Edit: Oh, and figure out how you can lower the chassis off the dolly before you go too high. And, make sure you can get your engine hoist legs under the dolly.
    Last edited by AZPete; 09-08-2013 at 10:58 AM. Reason: more thoughts
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  16. #16
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    So far I haven't done much to the bottom but I've installed the front firewall, front suspension and now the steering rack. I find it's a nice height for the HB shop stool I have. I think if you raise yours up more it would only be better because you'll easily reach the upper parts. It's not like you'll be working on a sunroof so everything will still be in reach. Maybe today I'll drop the engine/transaxle in. Maybe.
    Pete

    Edit: Oh, and figure out how you can lower the chassis off the dolly before you go too high. And, make sure you can get your engine hoist legs under the dolly.
    Pete, thanks for the advice. I think I WILL build my support blocks slightly higher. The blocks will still be removable, so it shouldn't make lowering the chassis any more difficult. Not sure what to do about the engine hoist concern, since I don't own one, and for as often as I will need it, I will probably rent as necessary. I guess I'll check out the clearances on the readily available rental cherry pickers. I'm guessing it will be OK, but I'll scope it out.

    I will probably build my dolly this week. I want to make sure that I have it available when Stewart Transport shows up with my 818 on the first week in October, and don't want to wait for the last minute. I'll let you know about the beer can holders.

  17. #17
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    Pretty cool!

  18. #18
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Brilliant!
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  19. #19
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    REVISION TO CHASSIS DOLLY:
    I installed the engine yesterday (hooray!) and found a problem with the dolly. No, no, the dolly did not collapse! It held the weight easily and I even added my 225 lbs and all's well and stable. I had to remove the headers (Perrin Equal-length) to get the engine in place and when I reinstalled the headers the 2" x 2" piece on the right rear block was in the way. I shortened the little piece to solve the problem.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  20. #20
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads-up, Pete. It may not affect my build since I'm NA, and my exhaust system is a different design, but we shall see.

    I have spent the last week or so detrashing my garage (it was an unbelievable train wreck in there), so I haven't gotten to constructing my version of your chassis dolly yet. But I'm just about there now -- I even have a usable surface on my workbench!! I expect that I will be dismantling my 818 Donors crates tomorrow, and should have my dolly completed before the end of the week.

  21. #21
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Get working! Your crate stuff will need cleaning, your 818 is coming, and you need to split fire wood, carve a pumpkin, hunt down a wild turkey, insulate the outhouse, and stock the ice fishing hut in the next few weeks. Winter can arrive next week in Minnesota.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  22. #22
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Winter can arrive next week in Minnesota.
    But it never arrives in AZ! LOL (unless you live in Flagstaff!!)

  23. #23
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Get working! Your crate stuff will need cleaning, your 818 is coming, and you need to split fire wood, carve a pumpkin, hunt down a wild turkey, insulate the outhouse, and stock the ice fishing hut in the next few weeks. Winter can arrive next week in Minnesota.
    That would be really funny -- except that it's too close to the truth. The crate stuff DOES need cleaning, and I need to install my Grimmspeed ported/polished/ coated intake manifold to the engine along with my lightweight flywheel and clutch, depower my steering rack, install my Quaife LSD (if it ever arrives) and a whole mess of other things. I don't actually need to split firewood, but I do need to bring the electrician in next week to wire the garage for the electric heater. But no self respecting Minnesotan would ever have an outhouse that wasn't insulated from the gitgo -- however, I actually do need to insulate the garage! The ice fishing house is a folding portable (yes, I really do have one), so stocking it is a little difficult...............

    But don't exaggerate about Minnesota winter -- it seldom actually arrives before October 15!
    Last edited by Silvertop; 09-16-2013 at 11:04 PM.

  24. #24
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    image.jpg

    I'm using a scissor lift for my build, so I made corn hole sets for my friends with the crate wood. The cleverness of the build dolly setup has me wondering if I made the right move. We'll have fun regardless.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldwing View Post
    image.jpg

    I'm using a scissor lift for my build, so I made corn hole sets for my friends with the crate wood. The cleverness of the build dolly setup has me wondering if I made the right move. We'll have fun regardless.
    Your scissor lift is going to be a lot handier than the build dolly, at least when working underneath the car. The build dolly, however, will be way cheaper (free almost, except for the wheels, nuts and bolts) -- plus one will have the ability to easily move the whole works around by hand when necessary. Overall, the benefits of one compared to the other is probably a push. But one way or another, yes, we will have fun.

  26. #26
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    I've been going back and forth in my mind whether to use a chassis dolly or a lift. They both have their merits. The dolly being the cheapest way, but the lift can be used for years to come . Anyway I'm considering one of these lifts if I decide to go that route.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    I've been going back and forth in my mind whether to use a chassis dolly or a lift. They both have their merits. The dolly being the cheapest way, but the lift can be used for years to come . Anyway I'm considering one of these lifts if I decide to go that route.
    If you can afford it do the lift. You will never regret it. I am ashamed I waited till I was 50 to get one.

  28. #28
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    If you can afford it do the lift. You will never regret it. I am ashamed I waited till I was 50 to get one.
    It would be nice to have, and that's a fact. But for this build, I'll try the do-it-yourself chassis dolly. If there is a second kit car in my future -- we'll see!

  29. #29
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    nice job
    i like people that think outside the box and actually try ideas

  30. #30
    Senior Member cmcintyre's Avatar
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    Well, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery....Here ya go!

    I have a Max Jax (a shop warming gift from my wife!) as you can see in the corner of the first photo, but decided to go with your design for ease of access and portability. I can always set up the 'Jax when I need to. IMG_0108.JPGIMG_0109.JPG

    I made my blocks a little taller (6 3/4" and 7 3/4") both because it was a stack of 4 pieces of 2x8 and it looks right for the rolling stool I use under the lift.

    Pete, is this the 22" dimension you list? The blocks aren't screwed down yet, just want em in the right spot when I drop the frame on it (Oct 4th, now, whoo hoo).

    Thanks for the Post!
    Last edited by cmcintyre; 09-24-2013 at 10:45 AM.
    " That which is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce

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  31. #31
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Yup, that's the correct space between the rear blocks. You might want to leave all four of the blocks so you can slide them until you get it in your garage and then set them exactly - and lock in the rear of the frame with those little 2x2 pieces. Actually, I planned to put in a screw to keep the blocks from sliding,, but they are fine without that drywall screw you show. Last night I was riveting the driver footbox to the floor and the hole ended up on a front block so now I'll jack it up a bit and slide the block.
    BTW, the 818 is much cooler than the pictures and you are on the brink of a really fun project!
    Pete

    EDIT: I'm wrong. Go down to Post #39!
    Last edited by AZPete; 10-05-2013 at 04:39 PM. Reason: Error!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  32. #32
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Yup, that's the correct space between the rear blocks. You might want to leave all four of the blocks so you can slide them until you get it in your garage and then set them exactly - and lock in the rear of the frame with those little 2x2 pieces. Actually, I planned to put in a screw to keep the blocks from sliding,, but they are fine without that drywall screw you show. Last night I was riveting the driver footbox to the floor and the hole ended up on a front block so now I'll jack it up a bit and slide the block.
    BTW, the 818 is much cooler than the pictures and you are on the brink of a really fun project!
    Pete
    Hey Pete!

    Well, how strange is that??? I just came on line for the express purpose of asking the same question. And there it is!

    My dolly is also nearly complete except for placement of the rear height adjustment pads. For some reason my rear pads look a little different than yours in terms of their placement on the 2 X 8 crossmember -- they seem further outboard than yours. For clarity then -- , Is that 22" distance from inside edge of the left set of height pads to the inside edge of the right set? That's where I have mine set right now, and they seem further apart than yours. Could just be camera angle, or something.

    Could you double check your measurements? I really need to make sure I get it right. It needs to fit right when Stewart Transport gets here, so we can offload directly from the truck to the dolly without any glitches -- and that should be sometime next week! My kit is scheduled for production completion this Saturday -- and Stewart will likely be picking up early the following week. How long it takes to get to Minnesota will depend on how many other kits are in the truck and where they are going. But if things go well, I should have mine by October 3rd or 4th.

    cmcintyre -- Is October 4th your production completion date, or your delivery date? Are you using Stewart, or are you picking up? If you are using Stewart, it is likely that our kits are going to be on the same truck!

  33. #33
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Silvertop, my plan is to leave the pads (or stacks, or whatever you want to call them) unattached to the2x8 cross-members, so that I can position them exactly when Stewart drops off my kit. The component blocks of the stacks will be secured together using the side panels that extend down in front of, and behind, the 2x8 cross-member. Once positioned, I can just put some screws through the side panels into the 2x8 cross-members. This frees me from having to make sure they are positioned precisely beforehand.

  34. #34
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xusia View Post
    Silvertop, my plan is to leave the pads (or stacks, or whatever you want to call them) unattached to the2x8 cross-members, so that I can position them exactly when Stewart drops off my kit. The component blocks of the stacks will be secured together using the side panels that extend down in front of, and behind, the 2x8 cross-member. Once positioned, I can just put some screws through the side panels into the 2x8 cross-members. This frees me from having to make sure they are positioned precisely beforehand.
    That's exactly what I am doing. The side panels are secured to the load-bearing cross member, and each pad is held in place by one long woodscrew (from my AJW crates) driven into it from the side panel to keep it from shifting at an inopportune time. I will need to roll the thing about 60 yards down a dirt road to my house because I don't think Stewart will want to drive down it (dead end, and hard to back out of). And I don't want to be moving my side panels around or the individual pads while Stewart Transport sits waiting. The process is more time-consuming than one would expect. I know -- I just spent the last couple of days building the dolly -- and most of two hours this afternoon fitting the side panels and the pads. I suspended final finishing of the thing (specifically, the rear pads and side panels) this afternoon because I wanted to make sure those rear pads are in the ballpark of where they need to be from the gitgo. I just don't want any surprises on delivery day.

  35. #35
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Silver, Just to be sure, I'll measure mine again when I get home this evening.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  36. #36
    Senior Member cmcintyre's Avatar
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    Silvertop - I'm 3 hours from FFR, so I get to go pick mine up, 10 AM on the 4th. I have a Nissan Titan and an open 18' Trailex aluminum trailer. I'll post a few pictures, although the transport thing seems to have been pretty well covered....
    Last edited by cmcintyre; 09-23-2013 at 06:03 PM.
    " That which is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce

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  37. #37
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Hey Pete,

    What exactly rests on the front blocks? It looks like the sheet metal from the cockpit floor, but is there a beam or anything above that to help with the weight? I'd rather the front blocks sit under something solid (if they don't already).

  38. #38
    Senior Member Silvertop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Silver, Just to be sure, I'll measure mine again when I get home this evening.
    Thanks, Pete. I know that's kind of a pain in the butt. Actually, if it's not too much trouble, the key measuirement on chassis dolly fit is probably the width of the 818 frame at the square tubing crossmember that actually rests on the dolly. Could you provide that as well?

    I promise to stop asking stupid questions.................

  39. #39
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Oh no! My measurement was wrong! The length of the motor mount bar (1.5" square) is 30 inches - side to side:



    The distance between the rear blocks (inside to inside) is 15 inches. The distance from the outside to outside of the blocks is 27 inches.
    My dolly has the motor mount bar sitting at the rear of the wooden blocks but it might be better to have it sit in the middle of the wooden blocks, about 3 inches forward. I suggest that you don't screw on the little 2x2 pieces until you get the 818 into your garage. At delivery, you can have the frame lowered onto the four wooden blocks with the motor mount bar on the rear blocks and then push it into your garage and screw on the 2x2 pieces exactly where you want them. Here's a closeup of the left rear showing the little 2x2 pieces.


    My apologies for the wrong measurement! I'm working alone so there's nobody else to blame . . . except maybe a defective tape measure. I'll try to go back and edit the original post.
    Pete
    Last edited by AZPete; 09-24-2013 at 12:04 PM. Reason: 2nd photo
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  40. #40
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Xusia, you asked about the front blocks. The footboxes have a strong steel floor welded into the frame. I don't know what gauge steel but it's strong enough to support the weight. In this photo you can see from the reflections in the panel that it is not flexing with the weight supported by the wooden block. That's why the exact position of the front dolly blocks is not critical. You could position the front blocks of the dolly 50 inches apart (outside to outside) and they would be on the outer frame bars and the steel floor.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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