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Thread: Eric's 33 Build #583

  1. #121
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    get a 1 1/8" master for the clutch. works great in my coupe.

  2. #122
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Hey Tom, Where did you buy your master cylinder?
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  3. #123
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    I got part # from Wilwood and ordered it from Speedway.

  4. #124
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Don't happen to remember that part number, do you
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by kraftee View Post
    Don't happen to remember that part number, do you
    260-10376 (wilwood #) it is different style. They do not make a 1 1/8" in the style the kit has. You will have to modify some stuff. It does bolt up to the pedal mount though. I ended up with the reservoir inside my footbox and made a access panel for it there is remote options though.

  6. #126
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Well, got back to Gainesville this weekend and worked a bit on the hot rod to get the new Wilwood 1" clutch master cylinder installed. I must say, removing the old one was a HUGE PITA. Not much room behind the dash - especially since I have my fuse block mounted above it (so I can access fuses/relays from the cowl panel.) Discovered that there is no way to pull the MC back far enough to get it off the mounting studs. It hits the back of the dash. So, I had to remove the bottom stud. NO fun, since there was no room to use a stud puller and the stud was assembled to the frame with red Loctite. So, it was a 1/16th of a turn at a time with vise grips. Took awhile. Once the stud was out, the push rod was unscrewed from the pedal block, and the clutch line was removed, I was able to BARELY maneuver the thing off the upper stud.

    The new master is about an inch shorter, mounts slightly lower, and everything connects to a different location. That means that it was much easier to slip into place. I used a hardened bolt instead of a stud on the bottom - in case I ever have to change it again! The bonus to the new master is that, a year or so ago, after I had drilled my dash for instruments and ac vents (body OFF the frame), I discovered that I had drilled the driver side ac vent hole right at the clutch master - so I was going to have to fill the gaping hole and drill another. Well, the new MC is out of the way enough that I was able to attach the ac hose to the vent with no problem!

    After bleeding and testing the clutch to make sure everything functioned properly, I took the car for a short drive. Other than some lingering brake issues (I will deal with that on my next trip up), it was a complete success. I am still not sure about the Detroit Locker - in fact I am pretty sure I am going to yank it out and sell it. If anyone on the forum has a track car and wants to swap their plain, old Ford Trac-Lok diff for the Locker, I am happy to trade even-up. You just pay the freight.

    Now, I just need to trailer the car to Ocala for titling inspection and then get it to my temporary warehouse/man cave in South Florida so I can get to work in earnest. I need to finish this thing!
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  7. #127
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    Car looks cool even in gelcoat.

  8. #128
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Whoo Hoo!!! Official Florida Title in hand! Thanks so much Tom Wallace for all the advice!!! Took all morning Thursday, but it is titled as a 1933 Replica. Now, to HAND CARRY my 1933 YOM Florida license plate to Tallahassee to get my registration completed.

    Also, rented warehouse space down in Pompano Beach for six months or so. I am sharing the space with a buddy who is re-restoring his all-steel '34 Ford 2-door sedan hot rod - and another buddy working on his full-race Elco. So, I'll be loading the car onto the trailer tomorrow morning for the 300-mile tow south. Looking forward to getting the bodywork completed and the car painted!
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  9. #129
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    Congrats!

  10. #130
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Eric & Tom,
    I am going to use Toms suggestion of getting a 1 1/8 master for my hydraulic clutch (hydraulic throwout bearing) as I am not getting enough travel with the .75 in. clutch master that I have installed.
    Did either of you use a remote reservoir? Like on the firewall or other location away from the master cylinder?
    If so, what kind of a fitting did you use to replace the included reservoir & connection to your hose to the reservoir? I have my reservoirs mounted on the firewall. I see I can get an adapter for the 11/16 - 20 thread input hole to a -3AN male but does someone make an adapter from -3 AN male to a 3/8 barb for the hose to my remote reservoir on the firewall?

    Eric, congratulations on getting your title & plates.

    thanks,
    Nevin
    Last edited by H R Lucky; 01-03-2016 at 01:32 PM. Reason: spelling
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  11. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by H R Lucky View Post
    Eric & Tom,
    I am going to use Toms suggestion of getting a 1 1/8 master for my hydraulic clutch (hydraulic throwout bearing) as I am not getting enough travel with the .75 in. clutch master that I have installed.
    Did either of you use a remote reservoir? Like on the firewall or other location away from the master cylinder?
    If so, what kind of a fitting did you use to replace the included reservoir & connection to your hose to the reservoir? I have my reservoirs mounted on the firewall. I see I can get an adapter for the 11/16 - 20 thread input hole to a -3AN male but does someone make an adapter from -3 AN male to a 3/8 barb for the hose to my remote reservoir on the firewall?

    Eric, congratulations on getting your title & plates.

    thanks,
    Nevin
    I did not use a remote res. Give Wilwood a call on Monday. They should be able to help you out.

  12. #132
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    I bought my 1" Wilwood master cylinder directly from Mike Forte. It came with an adapter for a remote reservoir. You can see the adapter just above the MC in the attached photo - it just pushes on over the O-ringed reservoir mount. I also used the polished stainless brake reservoir that came with the FF kit and mounted it on the firewall. I have found that the 1" MC has plenty of throw and my clutch functions perfectly. I am glad I didn't go larger as the pedal effort is a bit high even with the 1".

    ERIC
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    Last edited by kraftee; 01-04-2016 at 09:33 AM.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  13. #133
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    I made it to Pompano towing the Hot Rod yesterday evening. Here in Florida we have had a cold front stall over the State, so, of course, it poured rain the entire 320-mile trip. I was a bit worried because I had not ever driven (or towed) the car with the top up and side curtains installed. I figured I would have to spend a couple days drying everything out when I got the thing unloaded into my warehouse. Surprise! Only a few drops of water got into the car - at the bottom front corners of the side curtains. I am amazed, and quite frankly, impressed with how watertight this Rod Tops top is.

    On that same subject, a couple months ago, I noticed the top stacks (bows) had a bunch of corrosion that had formed under the powdercoat. I called Chad at Rod Tops and he said to send them back. He replaced them at no charge and said it was the first time he had seen this - probably due to improper preparation by his powdercoater. Keep in mind that I bought this top from FFR OVER a year ago. Great service and a great product.
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    Last edited by kraftee; 01-04-2016 at 11:36 AM.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  14. #134
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Finally got a chance to put a few hours into the bodywork on the 33. Spent most of the time fiberglassing and shaping the chin and extending the side panels to meet the bottom of the grill. Pretty happy with the results.
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

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  16. #135
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Eric,
    I just noticed your tow vehicle in your warehouse picture, It looks like a 32 - 34 tudor, nice! Have you had it long? how about some more pictures of it.

    thanks,
    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  17. #136
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Hi Nevin,

    I just looked at the pic you are referring to and it DOES look like I am towing the 33 with the Tudor! Actually, that 34 Sedan belongs to a buddy of mine that I share the warehouse with and the trailer is just backed in behind the Ford (I tow with my new toy - a new Nissan Titan XD diesel.) Anyway, the 34 is a hot rod that my buddy built about 35 years ago. Nice, typical 80's rod: all-steel body and fenders, ZZ4 crate SBC, turbo 350, tweed interior (hey, it was in style then!), Jag IRS, Deuce Factory 4-bar, knock-off wires, GM sunroof, NO chop. Great running car, but the lacquer is all checked, the chrome is pitted and it's looking a bit tired. So it's time for a re-resto. He is taking it back down to bare metal and going to repaint it black. Wheels will change, replacing interior, removing sunroof and welding in a new steel top... Still hasn't decided whether to stay with the IRS and put in a Heidts IFS, or put in a 9-inch rear and stay with the 4-bar. Here are a few pics from this weekend.
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  18. #137
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    It looks like he has a good start on it, nice!


    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  19. #138
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    I'd really like to know more about the 11 1/2" cables with loops swagger on. What does that actually mean? BTW I am wrestling around with hood fitment and function as well.

  20. #139
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    wrp,

    The struts really only serve two purposes. First, they allow the hood to "pop" up when you pull the release lever. But their main purpose, as far as I can tell, is to limit the hinge travel to keep the hood from lifting up, over, and hitting the grill. Once I decided that the gas struts were NOT going to work on the hood, I knew I needed something to control the travel of the hinges. So, after some measuring, I decided that 11 1/2 inches was the proper length for some travel-limiting cables. I used standard stranded stainless cable that I had laying around (kind of like you would find inside a motorcycle throttle cable.) I needed to make small loops in each end so that I could attach it to the same positions where the gas struts would attach. So, I "swaged" (crimped) small metal ferrules onto each end (see photo below.)

    I initially just looped the ends over the ball mounts that were there for the struts. But I was concerned that there was nothing positively holding the cables on, so I removed the ball mounts and just ran a bolt through the loop ends with a large washer and then put a lock nut on the other end. Worked perfectly.

    I will say that the only drawback to this system is that the hood does not "pop" up when you pull the hood release lever. You must go lift the front of the hood away from the latch to begin the opening process. Fortunately, there is a bit of friction in the hood cable, so the release lever stays in the release position until you push it back. That allows me to open the hood with no problem.

    Kind of a long, roundabout explanation for a very simple process. I should be over at the man-cave later this week and will take a few pictures to better explain the setup.

    ERIC
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    Last edited by kraftee; 03-28-2016 at 09:35 AM.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  21. #140
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    Thanks Eric. I am looking hard at the push pins vice the internal lock. Might not be as elegant but I still like the idea of using the hinges if for no other reason than to manage the hood while it is open. Look forward to the pictures

  22. #141
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    Thanks for posting this. The gas struts are a real pain. Mine don't push the hood up when you release the latch, but they keep the front so high you can't properly adjust the pins in the back to get a good fit. When the front is up the pins don't line up as the bottom of the hood is hitting the side panels in the back. I'll be installing this fix as well. Thanks, John

  23. #142
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Hi John,

    You're welcome. Do you need me to take any pics of the cables on the car? I continue to be very happy with the setup. I think I will take a short video of the process of opening and closing the hood with the cables instead of struts.

    Eric
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  24. #143
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Back at it a bit. Finished the trunk today.
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

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  26. #144
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    Trunk is looking good.

  27. #145
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Interior is about finished...
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  28. #146
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    Wow! looks fantastic! great job for sure.

  29. #147
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Well, I got sidetracked for a month or so restoring a motorcycle - but finished that and got back on the hot rod last week. As of today - and just in time for Hurricane Matthew - we are finally ready to go to the paint shop on Monday!!!
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  30. #148
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    With the car at the paint shop, I figured I would take care of some other stuff - like polishing the windshield frame. Damn, like much of the supplied hardware, it's pretty much a piece of chinese crap. Full of pores and grinding marks. Oh well, coarse paper to get most of the deep scratches out of the frame, then work all the way to 4,000 grit. Final polish with white rouge. Came out okay.

    On the subject of crappy components, the headlight buckets and clamps had chrome just literally flaking off of them. So ordered some stainless Dietz buckets and Delta glass headlight assemblies with Xenon bulbs and integral turn signals. Lots of cutting and grinding on the bucket edges to get everything to fit, but WOW are they brighter and whiter than the el cheapo plastic headlights supplied by FFR. They don't have a provision for parking lights, but no big deal, I used some orange LED strips on the edge of the grill shell for that. Having only 4 wires coming out of the headlights is sure a LOT easier to fish through!
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    Last edited by kraftee; 10-17-2016 at 04:26 PM.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  31. #149
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    Windshield looks great!

  32. #150
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    I have been following your build for a few months .... question did you do remove the glass when you polished the windshield frame? I would like to do the windshield and the grill.

  33. #151
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Sorry it took me so long to respond - I have been delivering a yacht and was incommunicado for a week! To answer your question, no, I didn't remove the glass - way too scary for me! I double masked the glass on both sides of the windshield and was very careful. I did all sanding by hand - and only used a power drill to do the final polish. Besides, I wasn't going for a chrome-like show finish. I wanted sort of a satin effect for both the windshield and the grill. I am pleased with the outcome - in spite of the pores and flaws in the crappy windshield frame.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  34. #152
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    Thx for the help..... your frame look a lot better

  35. #153
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Well, today marks two months at the body shop. I was there yesterday and they have the back half of the main body and many of the parts ready to prime or in primer. Still have to work on the cowl, dash, and lowers. I visit the body shop at least once a week so they don't ignore it too much. Back when I was a new car dealer here in town, this body shop did all the body and paint work for us and our customers. They do great work and the owner has been a friend for almost 30 years. He is doing this job for me as a favor and giving me a "brother-in-law deal" on the work - so I really can't b1tch much about the time it is taking. Hopefully the work will be finished in three weeks or so... I'll try to remember to take pics next time I am there.
    Last edited by kraftee; 12-17-2016 at 08:35 AM.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  36. #154
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Stopped by the body shop today to check on progress and take pics. They have been working a bit on it and tell me they should have a lot of time next week to put into it... At least most of the parts have been worked and have the first epoxy primer on them. More work to come and then some hi-build primer, etc., etc., etc. Getting anxious to finish this thing!
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  37. #155
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    Panels are looking great! Who is your painter if I may ask?

  38. #156
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Hi Tom. Having it painted at Bob Sturm's GT Motorcars. His best guy, Shannon, is the only one touching my car.
    Last edited by kraftee; 12-17-2016 at 08:37 AM.
    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  39. #157
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Stopped by the body shop today for my weekly visit. Progress being made! Should be ready for paint in the next couple weeks. I hope.
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  40. #158
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Well, stopped by the body shop again this morning. I am going to have to stop saying, "Hoping to have the car finished in the next couple weeks." It is slowly, glacially, inexorably approaching time to put the paint on, but the shop is using the car as "fill work" (I knew this going in) and Shannon, the body man working on it, is a friggin' perfectionist. So, it will be done when it is done - and it will be gorgeous. Here are a few of today's shots. Getting the trunk fair and fitted is the second to last step (he hasn't done anything to the waterfall yet.)
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  41. #159
    Senior Member kraftee's Avatar
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    Well, I went by the body shop this afternoon and the body work is finally finished. Shannon is about to put the final coat of primer on the car and then start laying color on late this week or early next. Getting closer!
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    "If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."

  42. #160
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Eric,
    Any particular reason why they left the body on the frame to paint it, I have not painted mine yet but I noticed a lot of guys take the body off and paint it on a buck along with hanging the doors, hood, & sides etc. I suppose one thing is you won't have to worry about scratching the body putting it back on the frame.

    thanks,
    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

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