The glove box is a great idea. Storage in the car is going to be very valuable space. You did a nice job engineering it. Are you going to make them available to other builders?
Absolutely Robert. We have a mold now, so can make them. I am actually shocked that someone else hadn't already done this. Especially since lots of other builders have moved their battery to the trunk - which absolutely wastes all that space beneath the fuel tank. All I can say is that I am VERY happy with the amount of space that this box gives me - and also with the easy access. $95 plus shipping. Let me know if anybody wants one. ERIC
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Well, I suppose I should let everyone know why my fast-build seems to have come to a screeching halt. After picking up my kit in September, I worked like a maniac to get to the point of the car being a driver by early December. At that point, I took a break as my wife and I headed up to our lake place in the great white north to enjoy a white Christmas. While there, I was contacted by an old friend from Pompano Beach. Seems one of his department heads had moved on and he was wondering if he could coax me out of retirement to take over the job. Well the challenge (and pay) was just too tempting, so soon after returning to Gainesville from New York, my wife and I packed a few things, rented a place on the beach in Pompano, and "moved" south. So, I am now Director of Sales & Marketing for Roll N Lock Corporation, manufacturer of aluminum retractable pickup truck tonneau covers. It's a job that's right up my alley, but requires lots of travel (we sell in over 40 countries, worldwide) and leaves me precious little time to make the 4.5 hour drive back and forth to my Gainesville shop to work on the Hot Rod.
However, I have been able sneak in a day or two here and there and have accomplished getting the bodywork started. I trimmed and mounted the deck lid, mounted the roadster windshield - and then this past weekend was able to get started on the doors. The passenger door is now mounted, adjusted and working perfectly (a BIG thanks to Erik Hansen for his excellent videos.) I also made the decision to dump the hard top and power windows, since they were just going to take way too much time to complete. Besides, being back in South Florida, I figured having a top-down roadster would be much more fun. So, I bit the bullet and purchased the Rod Tops top and side curtains (FOUR GRAND...YIKES!)
My hope is that I can still finish this thing by early summer and bring it down here. I'll try to be a bit more communicative and will start posting pics again. In the meantime, here's a shot of the windshield and passenger door...
...by the way, has anyone else come across this little problem? Like many people, I used my belt sander to knock down the body "seams" - including the joint on top of the door where the inside and outside halves are joined. As I got it almost flat, the fiberglass joining the two pieces literally flaked away, leaving...CLAY. They didn't even clean the clay from the top of the parts before throwing a strip of fiberglass on to join the panels. Shoddy, shoddy, shoddy. Although I truly do like this kit, I am less and less impressed with FFR (and their obvious lack of quality control) as I get into the bodywork...
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Hmm, don't recall that one. But I would report it. I've met the glass guy and he's as hard a worker as any but we all make mistakes. It would help FFR QC a great deal if you notified them. There should be no clay under glass, ever!
Yeah, I was pretty appalled to find clay under glass, but I doubt that I will bother to contact FFR. I tell you Erik, a few months ago, when I was having issues with FFR not living up to what they promised in terms of shipping parts, I basically told myself that I was DONE with them. Especially after having no luck getting Dave to show enough interest to answer a call or even return a call or an email. Well, I ordered my soft top from them a few weeks ago, but only because there is no other way to get one. My original plan was to build this 33 and then build a Daytona Coupe. But I think I will look for another challenge after the Hot Rod is finished.
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Yeah, I was pretty appalled to find clay under glass, but I doubt that I will bother to contact FFR. I tell you Erik, a few months ago, when I was having issues with FFR not living up to what they promised in terms of shipping parts, I basically told myself that I was DONE with them. Especially after having no luck getting Dave to show enough interest to answer a call or even return a call or an email. Well, I ordered my soft top from them a few weeks ago, but only because there is no other way to get one. My original plan was to build this 33 and then build a Daytona Coupe. But I think I will look for another challenge after the Hot Rod is finished.
So sorry to hear your problems. I did not have any like yours. I feel bad since you looked at mine and made the decision to build a 33. I would email Tony Zullo or Joe Scott and at least let them know what you are having problems with. I realize you are very frustrated and such. Being in the car biz as long as you were you know how sometimes stuff happens. We just don't like it to happen to us. There was a fair amount of fiberglass work and massaging on mine to get it right. Part of the build. Thanks for the update. Best of luck in your new job and with the 33.
Don't feel bad about it Tom. I am still glad I am building this car and the concept is excellent. I am also very pleased to have had your invaluable help and insights along the way. I just think that, for the price, there should be MUCH better quality control and customer service. Not only that, but I am also not a fan of Factory Five's obvious "whatever the market will bear" pricing policy. Case in point is the new 818 soft top: $2,500 for the top plus $500 for the side curtains. Sure looks to be a more complicated piece to build than the relatively simple 33 top. Yet, they price the 33 top A THOUSAND DOLLARS higher. Someone correct me here if I am wrong, but either FFR is losing money on the 818 top (highly unlikely) or they are gouging the crap out of the (typically older and wealthier?) Hot Rod builders. Just my opinion - but then what do I know? I just owned and operated new car dealerships representing seven different franchises over a 25 year stretch, then became operations and sales manager for a FIBERGLASS boat manufacturer, then became sales director for a truck accessories MANUFACTURER. Yep, I'm probably not educated enough to form an opinion when it comes to manufacturing or the car industry...
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
I also had some issues with the door seams. Mine showed up or rather I noticed them after priming. I ended up adding several layers of glass cloth to the top inside of the door for strength and something for body filler to attach to. Not an easy task when you really can't see it. My biggest problem was the hardtop being 1/2 inch different from side to side. I ended up filing a body line in the left pillar to match the door opening. All in all though, I am very pleased with the kit though and have enjoyed building it.
Sorry about the issues you're having. I pretty much called weekly to check on backordered parts during the build and finally did receive everything.
Yep Boz, the hardtop fitment - just sitting there on the body - looked like it was going to be a freakin' nightmare. That's pretty much the main reason I went the "easy" way and ordered the soft top! Your suggestion of adding glass to the underside of the top of the door is excellent. I was worried about reinforcing that seam - since it is pretty much just full of clay! By the way, I've been following your build. GREAT job. I admire the hell out of you for tackling ALL the bodywork and paintwork. Having done just a little of that over the years, I decided that I hate it enough to pay whatever it costs to have someone else do it! My paint plan is very similar to yours: two-tone with the break just above the body feature line. My plan is to use metallic yellow below and bright silver above. ERIC
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Thanks, my goal was to do as much as possible by myself. The only help I've had so far has been lifting the body on and off.
The soft top looks great on these cars in the pics and I considered that option but as the budget blew way past what I anticipated I relegated myself to work with what I have.
I just cut strips of mat for the doors and basically installed them blind but it seemed to work, messy job though. I also added several layers of mat and cloth to the rear of the hardtop to get it to fit better also. It ended up fitting great but it was a long road to get there. Two k for a top that poorly made seems a bit on the high side, thank goodness I only paid a grand for it.
I wish I had envisioned some of the custom stuff you've done, they are very cool. Good luck with Roll N Lock, they make a nice product !!
Not a fan of rubber-band tires on rods, so your setup looks absolutely right-on as far as I'm concerned. Dying to see the stance of the car when you get it on the ground.
Would you please mind listing the wheel widths and offsets, plus the tire sizes. I tried reading from your photos, but I couldn't even make out the tire manufacturer.
Your car is shaping up beautifully. I love the glove-box idea............so logical and I think it makes sense to have the battery more accessible. Love your side panel vent idea too. I think it will complement and enhance the car while being very functional too.
Thanks for the kind words - we obviously think very much alike! Wheels are Summit Pulsar Polished. Rears 15" x 10" with 4.5" Backspacing. Fronts 15" x 7" with 4.0" Backspacing. Tires are Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R radials. Rears 28 x 12.00R15LT. Fronts 26 x 8.00R15LT. Ordered them from Summit on a Monday afternoon. UPS delivered them to me on Wednesday late morning - mounted and balanced. Just a little over $1,300 total. A smoking hot deal from deal-land if you ask me. By the way, I did have to use 1/4" spacers on the front wheels so they would clear the calipers. Next time I'm home I'll set the thing on the ground and take a photo. In my opinion, the stance is perfect.
ERIC
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
...and to continue my griping about FFR... I recently opened the box containing my roadster windshield for the very first time (yeah, I know, should have opened it when I first brought it home - but I was only planning to use the hardtop). It was packed very well with lots of form-fitting styrofoam. Unfortunately, after cleaning it, I found that there are two fairly deep vertical scratches. Each of them about 3" long. One right in the middle of the driver's view - and one right in the middle of the passenger view. Oh well, I ground down the frame (LONG process) to make it fit my cowl anyway. I hope the scratches polish out...
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Thanks Eric. I thought they were Mickeys.........sort of recognized the tread pattern. I'm a long way from a build (if I ever get there) but all information is useful to get the look I want. Definitely want rake in the stance, so knowing specifics is really useful thanks. I would be looking at a different wheel, but your sizes/offsets are about what I was thinking and they do look right. What sort of clearance between inner sidewall and the body do you have at the rear?
Sorry to hear about your continuing woes. This windshield issue is just ridiculous IMO. Why bother protecting so well something that's already damaged.........and why even ship it in the first place?
I have the narrowest of the Fox Mustang rear axles (59.25") Next time I am in the shop, I will measure the actual clearance - although I have to tell you that I am very happy with it.
As far as the windshield problem, in fairness to FFR, I am pretty sure that they get the windshields in sealed boxes directly from China. It was just kind of felt like adding insult to injury...
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Looking forward to getting back to my shop in Gainesville this evening. My Rod Tops soft top is due to arrive tomorrow and I will have about a half day to hopefully get that installed. Anybody who as installed a soft top have any tips other than what is on the instructions?
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Woo hoo! The Rod Tops roadster top showed up today. Gorgeous. I have an art show in Melbourne that I have to head for tomorrow, but I will get up VERY early to fit up the soft top. Pics to come.
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Got the Rod Tops soft top and side curtains installed. Simple, two hour deal. BEAUTIFULLY crafted piece. And I think it looks pretty sweet on the car...
Managed to squeeze in another day of work on the hot rod build. Got the driver door mounted and adjusted, and the waterfall fitted. I had a bit of a shock when I went to stow the new soft top in the trunk. It doesn't fit. I didn't remove my battery to check, but it appears THAT is where one corner of the long bag (holding the top and header) must go. ***A NOTE to any builder intending to use a soft top AND relocate the battery to the trunk: Put the battery on the DRIVER side of the upper shelf. I know, I know, that goes against logic since you usually want to put that weight opposite the driver, but placing the battery there SHOULD allow you to stow the entire soft top kit into the trunk.
At any rate, I have no intention of moving the battery at this point. So I came up with a solution that will work for me. By leaving the three-piece belt bows attached to the car, I can strap the long bag right behind the seats. In this way I should be able to travel with the top down and still have it available to secure the car at night. Everything else fits easily into the trunk and, in fact, this setup will save me a couple minutes in erecting the top in the event of rain.
Thanks guys! Since posting the pics of my soft top stowage plan, I have put a bit more thought into making it work even better. I am going to have my local upholstery shop make me a nice, snug-fitting boot cover that snaps onto the back of the belt bows (just like the top does) and then clips behind the seats. Should make the whole thing look like it was designed that way. Of course, all that will happen AFTER I get the car finished and painted, but once it is made, I'll post pics, obviously.
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Had a couple days to do a bit more work. Bolted the seats in (with the Glide Engineering tracks), installed the Carolina Customs suicide pins in the doors, fitted the hood, and fitted the nose cone. Just have to cut the side panels for the mesh, fit them, do the door top panel repair to get rid of the clay. Then do the final gaps on all the panels - and she'll be ready for the body shop!
Thanks guys. Boz, right now the mesh is just taped on. After the car is painted I will decide whether to use silicone or epoxy to more permanently attach it.
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Thanks guys. Boz, right now the mesh is just taped on. After the car is painted I will decide whether to use silicone or epoxy to more permanently attach it.
I used 3M panel bond on my 33 and Vette. It works great. But you need a special gun to mix it.
Back on it this weekend. Got the hood completely fitted and installed. Had the same problem as some others with the gas shocks really pushing up on the hood corners - so trashed them and installed 11 1/2" SS cables with loops swaged on. Otherwise, the hood really went together rather easier than I thought it would. Also got the engine idling properly. Had to replace my brand-new, two-year-old Whitby booster to do so (massive internal vacuum leak.) Replaced the clutch master cylinder hose with the red one that FF sent out a long time ago. Figured out how I am going to fold up my Rod Tops top for driving. Going to have a canvas boot made to cover it. Even with the side curtains stowed, it gives me LOTS of room in the trunk (well, most of what's there anyway!) Otherwise, just a lot of loose ends. Loving the red dash lights and my cool 33 Florida license plate. Assuming my buddy ever gets here to help me do a final brake bleed, I may even drive it tonight...
Last edited by kraftee; 11-23-2015 at 08:13 AM.
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
Well, I got to drive the car for the first time last night. Found out five things. ONE: I am amazed at how apparently quick this thing is with a simple '88 EFI 302 engine. Granted, the 3.73 rear end contributes to that feeling - plus, it has had some head work and intake flow-honing - but still... TWO: One of the reasons it seems so fast is that the throttle body seems to be a bit "sticky" and the pedal is pretty much an on/off switch! Scary. I'll have to work on that today. THREE: The full-on Detroit Locker rear end (remember, this thing came out of one of our old race cars) doesn't seem to be a big problem. Steered a full-lock turnaround at the cul-de-sac and, aside from a little chatter, it seems driveable. FOUR: The stock mufflers are NOT blowing a bunch of fiberglass - as many have reported - and they sound GREAT. Nice and mellow. I wrapped them thoroughly with black header wrap before installation - and maybe that has something to do with it? FIVE: As Tom Wallace warned me, the Wilwood brake master cylinder that I used with Mike Forte's push-type slave cylinder doesn't move enough fluid. Really graunches trying to put it into gear - especially reverse. But all-in-all, I am pleased. The car moves under its own power!
"If everything seems to be coming your way, you're probably in the wrong lane."
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Originally Posted by kraftee
