Here is a close up of the hood vent and trim and splice.
image.jpg
Visit our community sponsor
Here is a close up of the hood vent and trim and splice.
image.jpg
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
Since there are a couple hurricanes coming to visit Hawaii this weekend I had to spend a little time getting some things ready. You know, extra water, food, gas, and more importantly beer, wine and cheese!
I did manage to get one door pull installed and verified, along withe riveting in the pocket face panel and bolting on the pull handles. I used some 80 grit and scratched it in like stainless, might spray them with clear and keep the look. Save to think about for later.
image.jpg
So here is a pic to show the result of me spending the extra time making a return on the door edges. Notice no slot in the door panel for the door catch to pass through.
image.jpg
Not installed permanently yet, but here is the 1/4" stainless mesh I ordered for the main radiator grill. Weird clouds and sun today (approaching hurricane I guess) this pic doesn't show the brightness of the stainless, but you get the idea.
image.jpg
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
Love the front shot! Can't wait to see more.
Please stay safe and keep us posted when the storms pass!
Seriously? I thought you were going to say you had access to a water jet or something. Looking at those cuts its difficult to imagine they were done by hand. You have some serious talent. More importantly I think you have some really good ideas for what will look right.
Thanks for your concern, it's looking more like it will be just some wind and rain. Honolulu (Oahu) is almost the last island in the chain to see the hurricanes. Likely slowed down by the time it gets to us. Of course, just like the mainland with approaching bad weather, everyone gets excited, schools, malls, businesses all started closing yesterday afternoon, even though they know the storm is a day away.
More pics coming! Started the quest yesterday for the perfect "Hula Girl" for the photo shoot!
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
They are probably not on the best terms judging by the amount of stinky fillers, epoxies, resins, etc Aloha uses, on the other hand, maybe they are the ringers that helped his fiberglass look so nice.
epoxy_contstruction_diagramweb.jpg
coincidence?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
I wrapped the top of the dash with faux leather and it turned out really nice. FFR sends out the dash, upper and lower, with 3 studs/washers and nuts across the face and 2 surface mounted screws on the ends to hold the two parts together.
I think leather on the dash pad is a must to minimize reflections back up on the glass. But the lower dash can be covered with anything or painted. I have been round and round with myself on what to do. (Picture dog chasing tail) So wimped out and wrapped the lower portion with faux leather also.
There are a couple issues with wrapping the lower portion, the notch at the top of the lower portion is not exactly straight with the dash pad and the leather will not be able to wrap around the ends and stretch far enough to wrap into the gauge cluster.
So first solution was to straighten the recess on the top of the lower portion.
image.jpg
Taped everything off and used the dash pad as a "form" for the filler
image.jpg
Then sanded the filler and the rest of the lower panel
image.jpg
The leather turns 1/2" with no problem, so with my Dremel cut off blade I cut the gauge return off about 1/2 back, starting and finishing on each lower side where the return is already about 1/2". Then I cut off the dash returns on each end. Then wrapped all the pieces, and with epoxy and silicone and backing plate flushed everything back in place, bolted the top to the bottom, and used epoxy on each end to eliminate the exposed screws.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
So now I have a fully padded dash!
So next up is the rest of the cockpit sides and floor. On my first exterior car wash I noticed that any water that got on the engine cover ran into the cockpit. So I'm thinking to myself this is going to be a continuous problem. There is virtually no space around the seats, so any water that lands there will sit till it drys. This does not even take I to consideration no roof and getting caught in the rain.
So my solution is good 'ole bedliner. I'm going to coat the floors, the center console up to the leather cap trim, the lower rear firewall panel, the front firewall and the door side sides. Then I will have custom carpets made for the floor, starting at the front of the seats. Then I no longer have to worry about water, the texture of the bedliner shouldn't look too bad.
I started cleaning and scuffing today. Tomorrow I will caulk all the joints and roll on the bedliner. If it looks bad I can always get some custom carpets that are removable for the visible areas.
image.jpg
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
I cleaned and scuffed the interior panels yesterday and cleaned with water then lacquer thinner. This morning I caulked all the joints and seams with a paintable caulk, tub seal.
image.jpg
Then two coats of bedliner. I used the duplicator with Kevlar.
image.jpg
Between coats and while the bedliner was drying I finished up installing the door panels. I wanted to get the dash in first so I could make sure and get an even gap between the door panels and the dash. I cheated over the door panels a little to get about 3/8" gap between the door panel and the dash pad. I riveted a piece a 1" aluminum channel to the top of the door, flush with the latch side about 3/8"-1/2" proud on the hinge side. I'm using Velcro to hold the top and rear edge of the door panel to the door. Then 2 rivets on the bottom
You can see I cut the top return of the door panel down to a straight 1". The forward top edge of the door panel just touches the windshield frame before the door stops touch.
image.jpg
image.jpg
I copied Wallace's pick on outside mirrors, Hollywood type. Put those on today too. Will eventually paint to match body.
image.jpg
image.jpg
Partway through installing the seat belts. And started laying out the pieces for the windshield wiper install.
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
With the bedliner dry from yesterday's application, time to install the seats, hopefully for the last time.
I needed to finish the seat belt install first, I'm using aftermarket and bolted the spool in the cabin, behind the seats, in the FFR location. The midpoint connection is also in the FFR location on the roll bar (I transferred the mounting plates to the exact same location on my hoops). I didn't look at the manual revision but I couldn't find where your supposed to mount the anchor point. So I attached to the 1 1/2" crossbar a little below and to the rear of the optional other spool mount location on the side. Since I bolted my seats right to the floor I didn't have a point there to mount the buckle anchor. The seatbelt kit came with some 90* angle brackets so I used them.
image.jpg
image.jpg
I am 5' 8" 170 lbs so I didn't feel the need for the optional fuel tank and modifying the firewall. After I shortened the steering column everything feels good. I'm not sure how the optional tank actually helps, unless you just sit up straighter. My seats are in a comfortable spot, I can move the seat back and forth about 1 1/2", but with the seat reclined in a comfortable position for me, the top of the seat back hits the hoop before the back of the seat hits the firewall in the stock location. Anyway, the seatbelt spool is nestled in a nice spot that makes it where the seat back cannot touch it.
To mount the seats I welded a nut in the bottom track of all 4 locations of both seats, then cut off the heads of some 2" bolts and threaded on a few threads into the bottom of each seat, then after measuring and drilling through the crossbars I dropped the seats into place, with the cut off bolts making sure the holes lined up. Then one by one from underneath the car I replaced the cut off bolts with stainless steel ones and a large stainless steel washer. Made for a pretty simple install.
I ran out of faux leather but had enough for one section of the console. This is the section that holds my cup holder and my push button shifter. I still need to make a trim plate for the shifter, but looks ok for now.
Anyway here are a few pics, starting to look like a real car.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
They are filming an episode of Hawaii 5O in the area of my shop tomorrow, need to try and get the 818 in a scene!
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
If you could get the 818 into a scene that would be so epic. Everything is looking great like usual.
I expect a car that exotic could catch a directors eye and find a place in the scene. Who knows, might even lead to a recurring role.
I heard of a guy with an FFR Roadster that was in a TV commercial, and the recurring revenue that resulted paid for his build.
FFR came out with their wiper add after I had already set the gap between the windshield and the hood, and painted the hood. So instead of messing up what was already in place, another opportunity for a solution was at hand.
My gap between the bottom of the hood and the glass starts at 3/8" on each end and gradually grows to 1 1/4" in the center.
So my free time for the last three days was what it took for me to find a solution. One of my friends came by and suggested I get a clip on wiper like they use on roadsters. They plug in the cigarette lighter and then you can remove after inspection. I almost gave up and went for the shortcut.
Anyway here are some pics. BTW, Hawaii 50 was filming in the middle of the day and I had meetings, so I only took a couple pics.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
So you can see I cut up the stock wiper blade arm, cut up some 1/8" steel, cut, bent, welded back, and it works perfectly. I might even leave it. 22" long wiper blade, BTW.
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
I'm not sure that Maine will buy that coverage but I've played with that configuration as well. There are some universal cable drives out there that will work and as a Miata owner I have a setup from a Miata that might work better. I'm still hoping to get two wipers in there. I see you added a center hood support as well. I made up an aluminum post
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
Reading your post made me look up the current law as my inspection manual is old (obtained for another project) and they revised the wiper section.
I only have to meet "adequate" WTF
On page 50 of 139... Section 8:
A. Windshield Wipers
(1) Reject vehicle if it is not equipped with an adequate wiper or wipers.
(2) Reject vehicle if any windshield wiper does not operate freely or at a reasonable speed.
(3) Reject vehicle if any wiper blade is worn or if the metal part of the wiper makes contact with the windshield.
(4) Reject vehicle if the driver cannot reach and operate freely a hand wiper, if the vehicle is not equipped with automatic wipers.
Looks like I can go single wiper too and take the easy way out!
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
It's been a week or so since I've posted. Been doing mundane boring stuff. Cleaning up more of the wire harness, getting rid of more unwanted/needed stuff. I've had a few electrical gremlins, gas gauge, AT fluid temp dummy light, EGT gauge one side, O2 sensor gauge, engine temp gauge, and a few others not working correctly. Needed to install speakers also, so engine cover, hood, fire wall, dash, center console are all back off while I troubleshoot/finish. Also needed to install a voltage clamp. Required to "trick" non-turbo ECU from seeing positive manifold pressure instead of vacuum under boost.
image.jpg
So all gremlins fixed except O2, ordered a tester to to see if gauge or sensor. Installed the mid woofers in the kick panel as others have done, tweeters still need to be cut into dash.
image.jpg
Also added a brace at the rear edge of the bumper at the wheel well. Made from 1/2 steel tube, flattened at each end and riveted back to the frame. Made me a little nervous having that much fiberglass unsupported.
image.jpg
So here in Hawaii life is a little more relaxed and you have to "stop to smell the roses" maybe a little more than on the mainland, maybe because it's easier! But last night we went to the Kahala Hotel to a small concert/dinner with Makana as the performer. Since he brought up a Hula Girl a couple of times, in the spirit of my build, here is a pic
image.jpg
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
I like that location for mounting a speaker, good idea
backing up a bunch, I want to do the roll bar/ hoop mod you did, just a few questions on it. first can you post a few quick measurements of your hoops? the bottom spacing where it meets the main chassis? the size of tubing you used? really I want to copy what you have done as its perfect! Thanks
For the plastic trim, does your mesh now sit only on that trim? Did you make an extra wide silicone bead to hold it on?
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports
Glad you like my change! Now that I'm mostly done I like it even better.
I can get you some additional measurements tomorrow, but basically my changes are made to match what FFR did as much as possible.
Starting on the outside side of the hoop, it is welded back into the same location as the FFR hoop.
The angle of the outside of the hoop is the same as the FFR angle.
The seatbelt anchor is welded back exactly as it was on the FFR hoop.
The height of the bar is exactly the same height as the FFR bar.
The FFR rear brace is welded back to the new hoop in exactly the same place as the FFR location.
The flat spot on top is just long enough that with keeping the same angle the other side of the brace welds to the top frame location just short of the end of the hoop on the opposite side. I think the distance between the two bottoms in the center is about 1" short of each other.
I made a few cardboard templates getting this right before I started bending steel, then it still took two tries.
Let me know what other measurements you need.
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
Hey Aloha 818, I am ordering a 33 Hotrod and got a quote from Honolulu Freight of $5800. Who did you use to get shipping of $4300? I'm looking forward to the build and sure could use any advice on saving kala on the paradise tax. Mahalo,rcarhi
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
The last major hurdle left for me is getting the gauge cluster swapped and cleaning up the rest of the unneeded wiring. My donor was a 2000 Impreza Outback, I bought a cluster on eBay from a 2004 Impreza to fit the dash design. I spent most of the weekend reviewing the two years schematics, labeling the wires, writing out a plan, and patching in the new connectors. Solder and shrink wrap.
So far it looks like I was successful, everything seems like it works
image.jpg
Tomorrow I can put it all back together again!
My only code is for the fuel temperature. I cut all that out as I didn't think it was needed. Does anyone know what resistance the sensor puts out at 85 degrees? I could just add a resistor to fix. Temps here don't vary much!
"In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."
818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016
Man I love this build! I want to see more pictures of it.
Aloha,
I'll measure tomorrow. I suspect it's a standard thermistor of 10k at 25c. Edit: this was wrong.
Tested Fuel temp sensor it today, 1.86K at 83F
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 09-01-2014 at 12:53 PM.