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View Poll Results: How to finish the mesh panels?

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Thread: mikeb75's build thread

  1. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    they look like this:




    They seem to have been included because FFR changed to some nice pull cables to open the latch/striker which don't work with the original door hardware. They're SMALL -like 1 finger pull small.

    I was able to use the original door handles and hard lines without much issue; though there is a small fitment problem with the Subaru handles.
    Sorry, I meant the nicer ones that azpete bought. I received my plastic ones the other day also.

  2. #282
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Those are the new FFR inside door handles?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  3. #283
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    So Friggin’ Close

    Finishing plasti-dip on the bonnet and going over some problem areas. I'm pretty happy with the fixability of plasti-dip. I put about 3 coats over the problem areas on the front fenders and they look pretty good. If you look closely there are some straight lines where I cut off the worst 'dip areas and didn't blend between old and new, but just the new spray areas look very good.



    Put trim on the bonnet to reduce rub against the fenders (still a little too tight, need to reposition passenger slightly and patch dip- again) and in the cut-outs for the grills.



    I have the mesh rough cut and painted, but got side-tracked working on a stay for the bonnet/hinges. The hinges appear to be pulling the riv-nuts out of the front bar so the bonnet is looking unsafe when open.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  4. #284
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Very nice, Mike. You are making me like matt finish. It looks mean!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  5. #285
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    Looks cool
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  6. #286
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    I was just reading about plastidip and watching a bunch of videos a couple days ago. Looks like pretty cool stuff, but I saw a picture of one that looked like it started to disintegrate when the guy tried to strip it. Also looked pretty thin, so it wasn't obvious whether it was too much time in the sun or just not enough coverage. Seems fairly idiot proof (good for me!)

  7. #287
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    Which plastidip did you use?
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  8. #288
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    OG plastidip

    Performix brand. Gallons have blue label with yellow lettering (from ebay; from Amazon can is unwrapped with plain white label). Haven't tried other products.

    plasti-can.jpg


    turbomacncheese, it's easy to get off, as long as you put enough material down! Right now I'm at about 6-7 coats total. The first two or three are very thin - and I could see a problem trying to peel off at this stage. After the 'base' has been laid down the other coats build thickness pretty fast, and peeling at that stage is (too) easy.

    the only problem I have with 'dip is it's too fragile. Rubbing will pull up the material, which is too easy to do when fitting panels, I'm of a mind that 'dip should be applied after the bodywork is installed. Don't treat is like paint -it isn't. It also shows scuffs which invariably happen when building or fixing the car.

    The good news is after a thorough clean I was able to re-spray and get a nice finish again.

    Thanks everyone!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  9. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    The hinges appear to be pulling the riv-nuts out of the front bar so the bonnet is looking unsafe when open.
    Did you use three rivnuts per hinge? Two go vertical and one goes horizontal. If you only use two on the top you're putting a huge moment on the rivnuts which would pull them out. That's where the horizontal one comes in to prevent that.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  10. #290
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    ahha, user error! (2)
    Let me see if I can get a rivnut into the back of the bar and drop some JB weld into the existing rivnut holes and get this stabilized.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  11. #291
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I'm working on getting a tech page setup for my website with install instructions for everything. Sorry I didn't let you know earlier.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  12. #292
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Tease



    finishing details... soon
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  13. #293
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Mike did you install the hinge brackets directly on the hood or you use something to flatten out the surface (hood is curved, hood hinges aren't)?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #294
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Mike did you install the hinge brackets directly on the hood or you use something to flatten out the surface (hood is curved, hood hinges aren't)?
    Stacks of washers. I bonded the studs directly to the hood and use different height stacks to fill the gaps.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  15. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    OG plastidip

    Performix brand. Gallons have blue label with yellow lettering (from ebay; from Amazon can is unwrapped with plain white label). Haven't tried other products.

    plasti-can.jpg


    turbomacncheese, it's easy to get off, as long as you put enough material down! Right now I'm at about 6-7 coats total. The first two or three are very thin - and I could see a problem trying to peel off at this stage. After the 'base' has been laid down the other coats build thickness pretty fast, and peeling at that stage is (too) easy.

    the only problem I have with 'dip is it's too fragile. Rubbing will pull up the material, which is too easy to do when fitting panels, I'm of a mind that 'dip should be applied after the bodywork is installed. Don't treat is like paint -it isn't. It also shows scuffs which invariably happen when building or fixing the car.

    The good news is after a thorough clean I was able to re-spray and get a nice finish again.

    Thanks everyone!
    Thanks. I suspected that might be it, so I'm glad you agree.

  16. #296
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Tnx for your response Mike, quick and easy idea, I might copy. I'll send you money for your patent.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #297
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    I think all the parts are there...

    Won't say done; but here it sits... pretty much fully assembled:


    I've scheduled the state inspections required for Maryland registration and titling... near the end of October; so it's another hurry up and wait. Doesn't look like I will get any track time this year, but I should be able to do some street testing as soon as the car is plated. I have some ideas of things to address in the short term and over the winter.

    But for now... garage queen.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  18. #298
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Whatever emoji for thumbs up.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  19. #299
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    Congrats Mike! Why no track time? Due to registration or season change? If registration, you can always just tow it on a rented u-haul trailer to the track.

  20. #300
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    thanks Hindsight,

    reasons for no track this year is pretty much all time related:
    -No tags mean I haven't been able to drive more than around the block, so the car's never been over 35(ha) MPH. I won't take this car on the track until I do some regular to high(ish) speed driving; not confident enough in the build yet.
    -There are no available sessions at the close track; I think the only thing left with the organizer I have run with in the past is at VIR, 5 hours away.
    -I don't own a trailer, or even a vehicle that can tow... that may change someday in the near future
    -I'm c#ickens#it (ha)
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  21. #301
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Mike, make sure you put many coats if you want to be able to strip it easily. I did one of my Miatas as a test case with a Plasti Dip experienced friend. We did 9 total coats on a Miata, about 3 1/2 gallons of dip.

    P1130239.JPG
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  22. #302
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Mike, make sure you put many coats if you want to be able to strip it easily. I did one of my Miatas as a test case with a Plasti Dip experienced friend. We did 9 total coats on a Miata, about 3 1/2 gallons of dip.
    Yup, got it! I have enough material to strip later! (I know since I've pulled some areas to respray). Definitely one of the important FAQ's about 'dip
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  23. #303
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    How about some out of the garage photos? Have you checked out summit point? I can understand not tracking it without some road miles though.

  24. #304
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Bad Hair Day

    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    How about some out of the garage photos? Have you checked out summit point? I can understand not tracking it without some road miles though.
    Fair Enough !!
    Yesterday afternoon was pleasant, the sun finally came out and so did the big camera.





    (no idea why banana... FIL's work)

    (shot to scale: I'm 5' 7")



    I also ran the engine for 30 minutes and took a quick neighborhood spin; there is still some heat coming through the firewall from the engine bay, which itself gets quite hot. I will need to look at better sealing off the firewall and adding some more insulation.

    Driving was good! After fixing the alignment issues and making sure the car was set up square front to rear I can say it feels nice and planted when I leaned into the go fast pedal. There is a little 's' section to the road I live on and while accelerating the car reacted well to direction changes. Also, the LSD is doing it's thing out back. I definitely feel it at slow speeds. Going to be interesting when I start taking corners in anger.

    So the exhaust is pretty loud -knew that. Audience could hear the car around the corner long before seeing it. But in the car the most prominent noise is actually the turbo when it comes on... lots of fun there!

    Summit is actually the closest track, but their schedule is also the most limiting. I'll take another look at the various leagues that run there...
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  25. #305
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Mike, have you checked your headlight alignment? I've struggled to get mine high enough and aimed properly.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  26. #306
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    There we go! The coupe roof looks great! Is it me or is the front lower than the rear? The wheel gaps look bigger out back.

  27. #307
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Love the yellow door handles and gauge bezels! Yellow on black really stands out!

    What 3rd brake light that?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  28. #308
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    There we go! The coupe roof looks great! Is it me or is the front lower than the rear? The wheel gaps look bigger out back.
    I noticed it too, I think it's the tire size.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  29. #309
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    yea, back is riding a bit high... but it's cool! If it's good enough for the Red Bull F1 team

    3rd brake light is an ebay special, Red 24 LED 12V car high mount third brake stop tail, basically this:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-24-LED-1...item35df24ecf7

    Headlight alignment is still on the list to do. I'm hoping since they're aftermarket there will be enough adjustment to get it fixed.

    thanks all!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  30. #310
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    That car looks bad a** in matt black.

    Great build.

    Martin
    Previous forum name was "Fezzek"

  31. #311
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    Good job! I am actually in maryland as well and currently working on the body. Please let us know how the titling and registration goes. I'll probably PM you later to find out additional details once my is closer to ready.

  32. #312
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    looking good, Mike! I will have to catch up with you some time and see the progress in person.

  33. #313
    Senior Member 6t8dart's Avatar
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    That thing looks plain evil in black...but im not so sure about the banana glued to the roof, it might attract hoards of monkeys whenever you stop.

  34. #314
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6t8dart View Post
    That thing looks plain evil in black...but im not so sure about the banana glued to the roof, it might attract hoards of monkeys whenever you stop.
    Plain evil is the best kind of compliment, thanks!

    Banana... eh what's an imbecile like me going to do
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  35. #315
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    Mike - Love it! I love the old front end with the hardtop. Very cool looking.

    Dan - RE the headlights - the only way to get them aimed right is to get some retrofit projectors. I have some sitting on the shelf waiting to get installed. Will post a writeup.

  36. #316
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    I really like the matte finish and agree it looks plain evil. I've now added matte black to my short list of colors.
    Mike, I'm having trouble getting the top edge of the power window to seal against the felted molding so if you've got any hints, I'd love to hear. OTOH, all your photos have the window down so maybe you're having the same problem.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  37. #317
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    windows are annoying!

    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Mike, I'm having trouble getting the top edge of the power window to seal against the felted molding so if you've got any hints, I'd love to hear. OTOH, all your photos have the window down so maybe you're having the same problem.
    Drivers side lined up pretty good, but passengers side has about 1/8" gap between the window and the felt molding. I am going to be heavily reworking the doors & windows over the winter to correct the door alignment/twist and get them to open/close freely.

    I'm not thrilled with the windows: cutting the slot in the door skin was really sketchy and I don't feel like the results are good enough. Add to that I don't feel the window rail path is correct for the amount of 'curve' needed to get the window to follow the door line.

    I can tell you that I over-cut the opening on the passenger side, and this greatly affects the window path. I went back with some flat aluminum and epoxy to reduce the size of the hole and use the weather-striping to push the window in. Actually, the result from this mistake looks pretty good (to my eye), and I plan on using this method on both doors when I revisit the issue:



    It's not the best picture, but you can see that the aluminum is under the door skin and the weather striping actually sits on the aluminum.


    Another idea I found was by watching a Daytona Coupe build on youtube by The Wizard. He is adding power windows and has framed the windows to make sure they position correctly. I think a guide frame at the front of the window in the sail panel might help a lot as well as cleaning up the gap between the door and the HT:

    https://youtu.be/1d4cMa_u4e4

    Overall, the window guiderail mounts and rollers don't have enough adjustment for me to get the passenger window to tip in enough to close perfectly. Additionally, since the door skin is required to push against the window from the outside to 'hold' it in position it's hard to pre-fit the window and check the alignment of the guide rail/rollers - which again is very aggravating!

    Actually my drivers side fits well and I don't have the same problem with a gap... which is annoying since that's the side where the door has always fit worse. Go Figure.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  38. #318
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
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    Thanks for the advice and also making me feel I'm not the only guy having trouble fitting the windows. I've only been working on the driver side, so far, but I cut the door in a straight line from molding to molding and then discovered the window is curved - duh, I should have checked first. Tonight I'll remove and remount the door at a different angle, fingers crossed. I haven't yet tried to fill the cut with the supplied molding but I'll try what you've done with an aluminum backer.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  39. #319
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Sep 2013
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    684
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    Finally, this is the week for inspections. Cross your fingers for me everyone (please!). Tomorrow is MD state salvage (pay us sucker) inspection and Friday is safety inspection.

    Really hoping to have the car on the road by the weekend.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  40. #320
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
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    Fingers crossed for you. Thanks for your help.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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