mikeb75's build thread

[STiPWRD]

Really hoping to have the car on the road by the weekend.

What time should I expect you?

[wleehendrick]

Finally, this is the week for inspections. Cross your fingers for me everyone (please!). Tomorrow is MD state salvage (pay us sucker) inspection and Friday is safety inspection.

Good luck!

keep-calm-and-fingers-crossed-5.png

[Frank818]

I won't wish you luck cuz I think luck is for those who aren't prepared and you are prepared. Let's rather hope that the inspection guy isn't too mean for whatever reason!

Let us asap once you get news!

[mikeb75]

Score. Have registration and temp tags.

Time for a frosty beverage.

[AZPete]

Yippee!

[STiPWRD]

Awesome!

[Frank818]

HURRAY!!!!!!!! Take a couple more frozen ones for all of us!
Now we want a picture of the car in action on the streets!

[mikeb75]

Just finished getting insurance straightened out. The 818 was added to my primary policy at same coverage levels (and comprehensive at that) for $585 per year. Score one for being a middle aged bast@rd.

Still need to pass safety inspection. Had to cancel since insurance wasn't in place on Friday, rescheduled for this week.

Took first real drive today, but don't think the video camera stayed put, mount came loose. I have a new gropro and mount arrived today, so next time...

Tried bedding brakes, and think I got them, but never really smelled the resin baking stage...

Throttle is a bit notchy, its hard to modulate power at very low throttle, need to check cable and throttle body for binding.

Need a bit more sealing of engine compartment, heat and fumes. Some Al sheet work needed to fill last gaps.

But holy -isht I got to go grocery shopping in the 818 and then bought beer

WP_20161025_17_06_40_Pro.jpg
WP_20161025_17_17_19_Pro.jpg

[mikeb75]

Captured some footage this morning on shake-down run. Nothing too exciting...

[AZPete]

"Nothing too exciting"? On a shake-down run, no smoke, no leaks and no tow strap are all exciting. Congrats!
I'm going back and watch it again.

[Canadian818]

I'm with Frank, that's plenty exciting!

[Frank818]

Hey Mike, I missed that but how did you paint/wrap/whicheversolution your Inside yellow door handles?

[mikeb75]

Hey Mike, I missed that but how did you paint/wrap/whicheversolution your Inside yellow door handles?

Frank, it's just yellow enamel spray paint

Failed safety inspection yesterday... inspector was steering lock-to-lock to test the turn signal canceller. Have tire rub since I never installed steering rack limiters (hey, I know what the limits are ). He popped the steering union between the rack and steering column shaft. The steering wheel would turn with a notchy feeling, but the wheels wouldn't move.

Back story here is that we've used a JDM solid union that FIL picked up from ebay or somewhere... and it required quite a bit of massaging to get it to fit on the splined shafts, both steering rack and steering column. I had to widen the bottom of the union and grind a relief slot into the rack input shaft to allow the pinch bolt through. The column shaft was a closer fit -just required a lot of torqueing to collapse the U on to the shaft.

So when I got the call from the inspector I figured the bottom of the union had popped off (has happened once before), but no it was the top that was slipping on the splined shaft. I tried to torque down the bolt so I could drive the car the 4 miles home, but couldn't get it secure enough. Had to have the car flat bedded home.

The car is now up on jack stands and the whole front end is off. The bolt securing the upper end of the union was OEM and it was not particularly strong. The threads are not stripped but actually pancaked flat so it was never going to hold strongly. I know the chance is remote, but it's kind of horrifying to think if this had failed on the track at high speed.

I've replaced the bolt with a grade 8 flanged lag bolt and added a second grade 8 nut past the threaded end of the union. Feels a lot more secure now, but still need some additional stress testing to make sure the splined shaft doesn't slip.

Next up are steering rack limiters, replacing the instrument console (one of the turn signal indicators doesn't work -tried replacing the bulb, I think a trace is burned out) and will readdress the side mirrors and doors.

[Canadian818]

Sorry to hear about the fail, but it's good that it went wrong now and not on track or dangerously in traffic.

[Frank818]

Ugh, sorry about that.
Why did you use that solid union?

[mikeb75]

JDM 'yo! Its got to be better...

Or I'm an imbecile who invites extra work and disaster at every turn. Probably a mix of both...

[mikeb75]

working through my punch list of things to get fixed before safety inspection attempt 2:

The right turn signal indicator hasn't been working on the instrument console. I ordered a replacement console and both turn signal indicators work but the console doesn't illuminate when the head lights are on after I changed out the bulbs... something hinkey is going on.

I disassembled the old console and found the fuseable link for the turn signal indicator had burnt out. Jumpered it to fix.
WP_20161110_17_37_46_Pro.jpgWP_20161110_19_26_30_Pro.jpg

Then replaced all the bulbs again and tested. Two more links blew. I'm beginning to suspect the ebay special LEDs I've been using are the cause of the problem... either that or I have a strange short in the wiring harness.

I went to the other console, found the single burnt fuseable link and jumpered it, installed all the old bulbs and tested/installed it. Will hope it holds until the re-test. Quite a not fun problem.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

working through my punch list of things to get fixed before safety inspection attempt 2:

The right turn signal indicator hasn't been working on the instrument console. I ordered a replacement console and both turn signal indicators work but the console doesn't illuminate when the head lights are on after I changed out the bulbs... something hinkey is going on.

I disassembled the old console and found the fuseable link for the turn signal indicator had burnt out. Jumpered it to fix.
WP_20161110_17_37_46_Pro.jpgWP_20161110_19_26_30_Pro.jpg

Then replaced all the bulbs again and tested. Two more links blew. I'm beginning to suspect the ebay special LEDs I've been using are the cause of the problem... either that or I have a strange short in the wiring harness.

I went to the other console, found the single burnt fuseable link and jumpered it, installed all the old bulbs and tested/installed it. Will hope it holds until the re-test. Quite a not fun problem.

Mike
A fusible link blowing by the bulb can only be caused by the bulb. I suspect the LED is in backwards.
Light bulbs are not polarity sensitive. The LED's are.
Bob

[mikeb75]

That makes sense. Thanks Bob! Will stay with the incandescent bulbs for now.

Another mini-update, been addressing the door fitment. I can say the doors fit a lot better if they aren't 'tucked' at the front under the fenders. Doing that puts stress and torsion on the door skin which makes it nearly impossible to fit in the opening without rubbing.

I've relaxed the doorskins and like magic, they just fit now. Still doing fiberglass work before final assembly, but I should have them done this weekend. The windows seem to fit in the opening better also. I bought some channel stock to make guides, but I don't think I need them at this time. I may revisit this as I'm looking at doing a bit of body work at the door to A pillar junction, but right now focused on completing reassembly and safety inspection.

[Frank818]

I disagree with Bob. Many LEDs aren't polarity sensitive because they are protected against misplacement, but on the cluster usually you are using unprotected polarity sensitive LEDs that require the right amount of resistance. You need to solder a resistance inlne.

Is this what you are using?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/50-Pcs-LED-RG...gAAOSwl8NVYxyY

[mikeb75]

Nope. Too nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pack-Twist...item1c3613dbf9

[mikeb75]

Set a goal to fix the doors so I took completely disassembled each side: fender, doorskin, door frame, hinges and windows. After about 15 hours fixing the door alignments, epoxying & fiberglassing and resetting the hardware I think I got it pretty close. Here is the passenger side almost all buttoned up :

WP_20161110_15_12_27_Pro.jpg
WP_20161110_15_12_40_Pro.jpg
WP_20161111_12_48_05_Pro.jpg
WP_20161111_16_23_22_Pro.jpg
WP_20161112_13_31_57_Pro.jpg
WP_20161112_15_04_15_Pro.jpg
WP_20161112_15_04_22_Pro.jpg

I just have a few hours left to finalize the drivers side door and reinstall the fenders & hood and I'll be up for another try at the inspection this week.

[Frank818]

Sorry I'm not saying anything about the windows, other than it seems difficult to get right, but did you cut the top inner portion of your front rear splash guard (piece close to doors)? I know there is a slot to slide it through the hood support bracket but it seems you cut a pie of off it.

I like your idea of the FFR mesh in that part. Will probably do the same. Tnx.

[mikeb75]

Yes, had to notch out the splash guards to get them installed correctly. Can't remember exactly if it was an installation order (and being lazy), or a positioning problem.

[mikeb75]

Drivers door finished. Door skin alignment not quite as good as passenger (again ), but opens and closes well and only about 1/4" away from the body line at the bottom rear corner. I do like how the drivers side window aligns with the hardtop line, I will be adjusting the passenger window limiter to get the same effect.
WP_20161115_15_10_21_Pro.jpgWP_20161115_15_10_31_Pro.jpgWP_20161115_15_10_36_Pro.jpg

Adding block off plates to the interior at the junction of the hardtop and interior side panel aluminum has made a huge difference in the heat and noise in the passenger area. Probably because my oil cooler is right behind me on the drivers side and the intake & turbo on the passenger side.
WP_20161111_11_38_39_Pro.jpgWP_20161111_11_46_37_Pro.jpg

Took a 15 mile shakedown run and no major issues - other than almost being hit by a mail truck! They pulled out from a stop sign directly towards the passenger side. Major swerve-o but the car performed well, kept me pointed in the correct direction and out of the ditch -sure was doing 25, but still too exciting.

On the mechanical: there is a clicking from the rear driver corner, speed dependent, but not consistent and stops when brakes applied. Maybe a brake pad rub, need to check rotors. Also sounds like the oil cooler may be banging against something, I'll need to update those mounts.

Steering system holds up well under abuse, but the new rack limiters seem very limiting. I need to double check the clearances with the car on its wheels.

Inspection attempt 2 is tomorrow, I think I got all the rough areas fixed.

[Frank818]

Yeah, the bottom rear is too much inside. What causes that?

Good luck for tomorrow man.

[mikeb75]

Yeah, the bottom rear is too much inside. What causes that?

If only I knew... I had it PERFECT when I marked the holes. I think it's the rear striker/latch mount that most directly affects the rear corner.

Inspection attempt 2 failed but I'm SOOOOOOOOO close! Just need to :
-Adjust parking brake : MD requires positive engagement at around 8-10 clicks. Currently set for end of travel
-Revisit the turn signal canceller : I know it works at the end of steering travel in both directions, but I think inspector wants it to trigger earlier.

I should be done this process on Friday!

[mikeb75]

Passed Inspection this morning. I guess this completes this phase of the build thread!!! Don't actually know what else to write here right now

[Frank818]

AWESOME!!!!!!!! Huge congrats!!!

The build is done. Now drive. And post vids.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Passed Inspection this morning. I guess this completes this phase of the build thread!!! Don't actually know what else to write here right now

Congratulation Mike,
We are at 1 year post registration. A couple thousand road mile and a couple thousand track miles.
KAIZEN year.
Enjoy the ride.
Bob

[AZPete]

Congrats, Mike. I'm amazed at what MD puts you through since here in AZ they just check that the major parts aren't stolen. I hope the weather is good enough for you to put some miles on.

[Hindsight]

NICE! Huge congrats Mike. I know that was quite a process for you.

[mikeb75]

Welp, that didn't last long. I know what my next project is going to be <sigh>


Apparently the noise I though was the oil cooler knocking wasn't... engine. Guess you can add me to the list and send a Nelson ha-ha my way.

Engine autopsy will have to wait a bit until I can pull it. Leaking oil from passenger side but haven't been able to get under car to inspect it yet. Will do so in the next few days, need to mod my jack stands a bit.

Sounded like this pretty much the entire way home -horrible clatter. I did manage to limp it home; wasn't sure it would make it a few times -it definitely got worse as I went, but honesty I figured the engine was toast based on the behavior right before the big noise, so I wasn't really worried about saving it. I though the noise was from the drivers side heads, but the oil leak is on the passenger side.

Other info:
Engine was acting unhappy during test drive. I had run it up to 70ish and about 10 PSI boost. The oil temperature started rising from 190 to 220 (oil cooler and fan were running at this time). Was sluggish until about 4.5K, then it seemed to spool up quick, was thinking turbo/WG problem. I did hear a significant amount of wastegate flutter during one hard pull, but that's the way this turbo/internal WG had been on the dyno runs.

The CEL light was from missing evaporative controls & missing TGV's which was known since I'd removed them during the install. I need to check if there are any new CEL codes.

[Hindsight]

Oh man, that was tough to watch. I can just see the gut-wrenching thoughts floating through your head as you realize what the issue was. Well.... at this point at least you can get a new bottom end that will take 600+ HP for future upgrades! Have you made any plans just yet on the direction you'll go?

[frankc5r]

Ouch! Does not really sound like rod knock but maybe more like piston. Did you happen to be taking data like knock and inlet air temp. I looked back thru your build thread and not sure if u are using fans to flow air thru your air/air. Fans that try to push thru a restriction sometimes have a real drop in flow.
I feel your pain. I had a finished project drop off hoist just after painting. everyone one here I am sure will do whatever they can to help.

[Frank818]

[QUOTE=mikeb75;258066Guess you can add me to the list and send a Nelson ha-ha my way. [/QUOTE]

Haawww-haaawwww

No seriously, that's the worst timing for this expression. Your suggestion is really bad, Mike.

The engine wasn't running well before that sharp ping we heard?
At least you manage to bring it back, hopefully it didn't amplify this issue. Can't wait to read more details. So sorry for you, after the huge well deserved smile of plating the car... that.

[mikeb75]

Yea, and no data either... damn datalogger hasn't been writing to SD card. Working with vendor to troubleshoot... and who needs to datalog on a fun drive.

Actually looking forward to pulling engine and building out the replacement. Interested go try an alternative turbo placement and IC.

Not planning to go crazy on the build, shooting for 320-350 at the wheels. Also going to look at if the heads are salvageable, and if the valvtrain can be built for a 7500 or higher redline. Think honeybadger or beefybadger.

Lets see where this adventure goes (been drinking and watching The Grand Tour!)

[DSR-3]

Ouch! Keep drinking and keep your good attitude!
At least you didn't get out and find a con-rod laying there- that's no fun either...
Congrats' on the inspection Pass. Good luck with BUILD Phase 1.5.

[AZPete]

Oh crap! I think I'll go get a drink, too. So sorry.

[mikeb75]

Happy New Year All! May 2017 see the ends of your projects in progress and the beginnings of many more!

We're going a bit backwards... but after 2 actual working days (only a few hours each) we've got the car back to this state:
WP_20170101_16_53_37_Pro.jpg
WP_20170101_16_53_50_Pro.jpg
WP_20170101_16_54_00_Pro.jpg
WP_20170101_16_54_07_Pro.jpg

A few design/assembly choices made getting the fenders & hardtop off more difficult than it should have been. A few extra riv-nuts instead of rivets on the front splash guards would make a much easier job; will do the replacements during the reassembly.

There was some oil left in the pan, just under the 'low' mark on the dipstick. There was some metal in the oil -but it was dark not coppery. Also, there was a bunch of water in the catch can - can't wait to figure that one out... Haven't dumped the coolant yet, that's next; will see how contaminated that is.

Plan to get the engine pulled next weekend if the weather cooperates, then the fun starts! We have a line on a replacement engine, nothing too fancy, but should be quite satisfying.