Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

[Frank818]

Cluster brackets.

2015-01-02 14.58.22.jpg2015-01-02 14.58.36.jpg

Looks funny, a bit daft, but in black you don't see them much and obviously with the dash on it won't be visible. Took me a fair amount of time to design and it's not the perfect solution, but it should stay in place, that's the only thing I want.

Tnx to my welder again for these!

[Frank818]

Here is a picture of part #10 you need.

Bob, I have seen a few diagrams on internet, but no real picture, so it's hard to know if they are the clips of picture in post #517.
How have you pushed yours in?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, I have seen a few diagrams on internet, but no real picture, so it's hard to know if they are the clips of picture in post #517.
How have you pushed yours in?

I think this is a picture of the clip your looking for.
There is a screw diver in it to pry it off.
Bob
D6B9C55B-orig.jpg

[Scargo]

"Tnx to my welder again for these!" Funny guy. Like the welder has a brain...
It works, it's functional and is pretty clean. Good job.

[Frank818]

I think this is a picture of the clip your looking for.
There is a screw diver in it to pry it off.
Bob
D6B9C55B-orig.jpg

Bob, again you nailed it! Yours looks like a bit staple, but mine on the picture look like a super super small horseshoe. I'll call the dealer on Monday and order a set.



Scargo, you're right, I should be happy about the good job. I thought I could do better, but I spent so many hours fitting this and the precision was quite important, so you're right, good job.

[svanlare]

I go away skiing for the better part of 2 weeks and you are welding like a champ and making great progress. Learning to weld is on my bucket list, after catching up here I might have to make that happen sooner rather than later. Time to get back in the garage today for me!

[Frank818]

Tnx, Steve, but "champ" is a big word, though I admit for light and medium work like brackets I can get around no problem. Engine mounts, exhaust, intake piping or frame tubing will have to wait a few more weeks. Go skiiing again twice and then I should be ok.


Well these Holidays were like "Holly Days" for me, in 2 weeks minus 2 days I spent 73h45mins. Not bad.

I finally completed the stupid ebrake handle. I should have bought a 2005+ handle w/boot, it would have saved me I'd say 10h easily. Oh well.
I used FFR's shifter boot, but the leather (or is it vinyl actually?) is made for a shifter, not curved for an ebrake, so there's a lot of leather at the front under the handle. It was jamming up the handle I couldn't sit it properly. Even the grease from the mechanism was all over the inside of the boot. So I had to cut more the ebrake handle trim and my center console. 100 more trimming on that console.

2015-01-03 10.26.01.jpg2015-01-03 11.36.04.jpg2015-01-03 11.36.14.jpg2015-01-03 11.52.42.jpg


But since the shifter boot had a very tight hole, in order to get the shaft through the tight hole (bad choice of words, sorry!!!), I had to cut the elastic keeping the hole tight. Of course it damaged a little the exterior of the boot, so I don't know how I am going to hide this. Maybe I can roll the sleeve over the handle, but it shortens the handle, it looks weird and I do slightly touch the boot with I use the handle. I'll see what I can find later on when I'm finishing the interior. The important thing is that all the parts are fitting together and are functional.

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[Frank818]

Then I worked on the AWIC hoses. Have nothing done, as one of my biggest challenge is I have no idea of the clearances on that car. Anywhere on the car, until I actually mount the parts, I have no idea where I have space to pass something through. Can I fit the coolant tube that high? Oh, no, can't, the side body panel is flush on the frame there. I'm not there yet, not easy to see it coming. Can I pass the hoses outside that rad frame? Oh, probably not, it seems like the alu panels are riveted on the frame, bent inside a little.... and so on... Since I can't find clear pictures of all the clearances around the car, it's sometimes a real pain to design my solutions. That's one of the things I hate the most about this.

I have then decided to mount my overflow reservoir #1, the one up front. I drilled out the rivnut on my older style Subaru rad and fitted one I have fasteners for. I then spaced out the reservoir mounting hole so it would not bend the plastic, I put some protecting foam under the reservoir, to better sit on the rad and I will probably tie-wrap the bottom mount of the reservoir through the rad.

As you notice, I quickly marked the new levels.

The result doesn't fit higher than the overflow cap on the other side, I should be fine.


Attachment 37229Attachment 37230Attachment 37231Attachment 37232


And I finished up the Holiday work with a start of my carpeting. Undercarpeting, for the moment.

Attachment 37233

I have no idea how I will tackle this in place in a way that it can be removed/reinstalled as often as need be...

Guess what, yes, since it added spacing up front the FW and on the foot area, it changed my center console alu fitment (I knew it), so another 100 trimming on the console. lolll This console is so trimmed, so precise, it's not worth 1000's of dollars to me, it better never break. loll
And guess what again, the undercarpet under the seats causes me issues to install the seat. Since it's not possible to reach the rear brackets from anywhere else than directly under the seat (yes, the under seat alu panel needs to be removed each time), I realized that now the undercarpet is in the way. I will have to drill a hole or cut a line that can be stretched whenever I need to install or remove the seats.


Tell ya what, there are 2 things I would never want to remove: the ebrake handle (requires the entire console to be removed) and the seats.

[Frank818]

I don't have many pictures now that I am working on the carpeting and insulation.

In the meantime I started leak testing my fuel tank a while back and found 2 types of leaks which I mentioned previously.

Here are the fixes to that:

1- Fuel cap vapor leak. This should not happen once you install the S tube correctly. I installed it ends swapped cuz I needed a low profile fuel cap to fit in the car while I was going to the gas station. Stupid me, I could have simply used my fuel plastic container and pour it in the fuel tank at home. Anyway, since fuel was sitting at the bottom of the tube all along the S'es and much closer to the fuel cap, it leaked vapors. As soon as I was emptying the tube by tilting it or if it's higher (installed normally), it doesn't leak. But I am sure if you overfill the tank and fuel backs up the tube it will smell in your garage until you burn that fuel out. I mean burning using the engine, not fire, of course!

2- Level sender gasket leak. This was a real leak. Vapor and liquid leaks. When I was tilting and shaking the tank, fuel was dripping along the opening and on the front side of the tank. I removed the gasket and sender, used some Permatex non-hardening Make a Gasket (like this one http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...0016/7349145-P) and put everything back in. No smell at all, even when I shake the tilted tank.

Plz, test leak your tank BEFORE you permanently fit it in the car and fill it with fuel.

I don't want to imagine all the troubles I would have gone through if it were leaking while in the car.

Besides, it's super easy to test and if you need to drain the tank, use your inside pump! It actually allowed me to test my new 255LPH pump. Works fine and much quieter than expected.

Something I learned about kit car building, "test everything before you fit".

[Frank818]

New Ford GT V6 sound
http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/f...oit-2015-01-19

Definately not a V8! But still a great whistle!

I won't have build updates for a while, as I am stuck on wiring. Some of the Subaru as is, some of the Subaru modified, some of the VW as is, some of the VW modified and the rest, 95%, all custom, even more custom than the standard 3-cell kit rear engine from InfinityBox. It is hard for me that part. I estimate 150hours on the wiring.

[Harley818]

Hi Frank,
After your story about gas all over the garage floor, I was worried, but took a gamble and filled it up yesterday..... no leaks!!!
However, after starting, had a fuel leak at the FFR quick disconnect.

I feel your pain with the wiring. I have lots of hours into it and I'm not done yet. The engine start was good, but now I need to neaten it up, figure out where I'm going to tap in for stereo etc. and go from there.

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank- PM me with what you need from the 02. I saw the steering column stuff and took some pics and plan to label/upload tonight for you. What else?

[Frank818]

Harley, if my post made you leak test your tank and you found out what we know you found out, then I am very happy I posted the information as it made you find out sooner than later and with the fuel tank, later is a pain...

Tnx Frank! The other Frank.

[Harley818]

Frank,
I'm just finishing my wiring.
If theres any connectors or other info you need pics of let me know.
I have pretty much finished the wiring to the engine and fuel pump/controller/fuel level.
Wiring finished to the engine and trans.
Still have front and rear lights to wire.
Front rad fans, and brake master hooked up.

I have main fuse panel and relay panel located just at the front of the tunnel, with daytime running lights relays, etc at the back.
Almost everything else cut out.
I kept in the steering wheel switches and controls........ starter key works although I will switch to a pushbutton start and proximity security system. I want walk-up recognition and push button start.
Harley

[Scargo]

I need a DBW connector for the gas pedal...

[Frank818]

Well I had a great phone call with Jay at Infinitybox this morning. Straightened many things out which helped me better understand his system and the Subaru diagrams. I also did some searches on internet for acronyms not defined in the Subaru manual, nor Infinitybox's. Then I played with the steering column's wires and found most of what I was looking for (yeah, that quickly, who knew! Not me!!). Crossing fingers the wire colors I found in the manual really match the ones on the column, I should know tomorrow.

It seems many wires are not going to be used anyway (I won't even use the cylindrical starter piece and wires), delete all relays, all security module crap things and that stuff. My stand alone ECU and the Infinitybox will be replacing and controlling almost everything without a relay and stuff. I still need a few relays for specific things, but they will be custom.

I'm still learning. BTW for those interested, on the clutch, the blue connector/switch at the bottom is used probably to cut off the cruise and the switch works the exact opposite as the interlock switch, which is located just above, in white. One switch grounds when you press and the other cuts ground when you press. I have removed the latter, no cruise on mine.

Frank (Pearldrum) gave me some inputs last night which also triggered some more understandings when I started to read again the wiring manual today. Tnx for that, man! It's not over yet but tnx for the great start!


Jay is looking at a special feature for both my seats heating and back seat reclining motor. The beauty of that system is I can program pretty much anything like I want and I can eliminate all switches by using my tablet. Say for ACC, IGN, START, shutdown, turn on ECU only, awic water pump, seats, hazards, parking lights, etc. I will have one switch on my dash: kill switch.

I hope to progress even more this w-e. But the key is to read a lot of documents, there are many documents giving me different info but when I match them all up, it then adds up! Plus the help I get here and more things match up. Now that's a good feeling.

[Pearldrummer7]

Well I had a great phone call with Jay at Infinitybox this morning. Straightened many things out which helped me better understand his system and the Subaru diagrams. I also did some searches on internet for acronyms not defined in the Subaru manual, nor Infinitybox's. Then I played with the steering column's wires and found most of what I was looking for (yeah, that quickly, who knew! Not me!!). Crossing fingers the wire colors I found in the manual really match the ones on the column, I should know tomorrow.

It seems many wires are not going to be used anyway (I won't even use the cylindrical starter piece and wires), delete all relays, all security module crap things and that stuff. My stand alone ECU and the Infinitybox will be replacing and controlling almost everything without a relay and stuff. I still need a few relays for specific things, but they will be custom.

I'm still learning. BTW for those interested, on the clutch, the blue connector/switch at the bottom is used probably to cut off the cruise and the switch works the exact opposite as the interlock switch, which is located just above, in white. One switch grounds when you press and the other cuts ground when you press. I have removed the latter, no cruise on mine.

Frank (Pearldrum) gave me some inputs last night which also triggered some more understandings when I started to read again the wiring manual today. Tnx for that, man! It's not over yet but tnx for the great start!


Jay is looking at a special feature for both my seats heating and back seat reclining motor. The beauty of that system is I can program pretty much anything like I want and I can eliminate all switches by using my tablet. Say for ACC, IGN, START, shutdown, turn on ECU only, awic water pump, seats, hazards, parking lights, etc. I will have one switch on my dash: kill switch.

I hope to progress even more this w-e. But the key is to read a lot of documents, there are many documents giving me different info but when I match them all up, it then adds up! Plus the help I get here and more things match up. Now that's a good feeling.

No problem, Frank! Asking me to define things helps me understand them better myself, too.

Your infinitybox setup is very cool and makes me think of the possibilities with a standalone PLC. Siemens' new 1500 series starts wayyyyy cheap (30 I/O for ~$250 with a usb cable, I think)....perhaps that's in my future for this car, as well.


Keep us up to date with InfinityBox updates, and nice progress man!

[Frank818]

I thought this could interest a few people who want to fit a tablet on the center console.

2015-02-01 08.50.40.jpg

This tablet fits totally perfectly with a superb clearance on all 4 corners. Too bad I am not fitting it portrait but rather landscape due to my ECU software which works a lot better in landscape. But anyone who wants a portrait tablet, this one is the way to go. Others may too but this one is just perfect. If you want to know what it is let me know.


Also some of my wiring. I'd say this is about 90% of my wiring up front (and not all wires are used, I will remove the unused ones), not bad, if I was not using these cells I would have more and a lot more going to the back. Now I have power going there and one cell to control all the stuff in the back. One more cell and I would be missing space to fit it! My ECU is fixed on my fuel tank! I have put some EZCool on the tank and fixed the ECU on top of the EZCool with velcro. No picture for that yet.

2015-02-01 07.11.03.jpg2015-02-01 07.11.13.jpg

I have gone through all required wires on the steering column and know which one does what (except for cruise I didn't check). I broke my multi-meter but welded it back. This thing is way too handy.

[C.Plavan]

You will not be able to see that tablet at all during the daytime.

[Frank818]

Don't worry Chad, I will not. I used to use my laptop on the pass seat in a closed-off car with tinted windows and it was a pain in direct sunlight. I still plan on using an anti-glare film but mostly for protection than anti-glare. My polarized sunglasses will kill all the view on the tablet anyway, even when cloudy. Tablet will also be easily detachable so I can use it on my knees and change the angle as I wish. But I won't be using it while I got my hands on the wheels.

[Frank818]

Non-wiring update #1 of 2.

I received some parts to allow me finish the installation of the AWIC HE and coolant tubes.

To fit the HE, took me... 5-6h. For a freakin' rad!!! ZB's mounting brackets caused me some alignment issues as I could not get them aligned well enough. I ended up stretching one of them, there will always be some tension on the passenger's side bracket, but it's not that bad. After hours of test fitting the HE, thank god I found the best compromise.

2015-02-15 04.40.40.jpg


But the main problem is I realized that if you are not using a 02-07 rad with the top center inlet and you are using a pre-02 with top right inlet (especially one aftermarket from ebay), the size of the rad may vary in which case fitting the HE is more problematic. At first one of the bolt on the driver's side was hitting one rad's weld (dry rad, there is no coolant in), I had to flip the bolt around and gain some clearance. Still a tight fit.

2015-02-15 04.58.54.jpg

But there is another prob with those pre-02 rads. A 5/8 hose does not pass through between the rad and rad frame. DOH!

2015-02-14 10.35.47.jpg

Yeah I did swear quite a lot. So I continued my main work on this build (designing) and routed the damn hoses one over the HE and rad on the far left and one under the HE, rad and steering rack. I just cross my fingers that nothing will need either space (hood, front rad belly pan, splitter, etc.). If yes, I am dooooooooooooooooooomed.

Then while test fitting the HE I wondered why ZB did not fab the brackets to allow a lot more clearance on the barb fittings side. I think it's cuz Craig wanted to keep the HE as centered as possible and to allow routing the hoses straight between the rad and rad frame (irrelevant for me now). Hence, I think good clearance in cases like mine with a non-02-07 rad, is worth more. The brackets could be modified (or have another version) to allow something like this:

2015-02-14 11.02.41.jpg2015-02-14 11.03.00.jpg

2 probs would be fixed at once: Enough barb fittings clearance and no clearance issue with the driver side's lower bolt hitting on a non 05-07 rad. I had spent enough hours fitting this damn HE I didn't want to spend more modifying the brackets myself so I let it go, I was pissed enough (all this cuz of the non-02-07 rad).

[Frank818]

Non-wiring update #2 of 2.

Now the coolant tubes. Oh that should be easy, I got Mike Everson's (Replica parts) tubes designed for the rad I am using! How lucky.

Wrong. The tubes are nice, but I believe, at least on the driver's side, 2 tubes are too short and would greatly benefit from being about just 1" longer. The tube that comes out of the lower left outlet and goes over the steering parts could have 1" more towards the front FW. This would allow 1- more clearance under the control arm and 2- better clearance over the frame for the inner wheel well.
Then the next tube that goes from the control arm to exit inside the side body panel could be 1" longer (or maybe be pushed back 1" from the first tube) to allow a perfect clamp fitting. Currently it's so tight that I spent 2h trying to make it fit in a way that the clamp would 1- not rub on the frame and 2- be able to access the clamp in order to fully tighten it on the rubber coupler. Even so, I hope NO vibration will happen there as it will rub in such case. There is a lot of open space in that area the more you go back. Since it's a triangle shape, the further up front, the least space you've got. I don't know what I'm missing, but swore a lot again. What am I doing that bad to make the installation that bad, I couldn't find.

Took me almost 5h to fit 2 tubes.
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Finally found a compromise for which I cross my fingers there will be no vibrations.

This week I'll see what happens to the passenger's side.


In the meantime,

Some friend: "Hey, judging by the thread pattern, you were trying to do something on a 10-32 bolt, right?"
Frank: "Yeah, right on, 10-32 bolt cut with my cut-off wheel burned my finger."
Who didn't hurt himself during his build.

2015-02-15 06.48.17.jpg

[wleehendrick]

I received some parts to allow me finish the installation of the AWIC HE and coolant tubes.

To fit the HE, took me... 5-6h. For a freakin' rad!!! ZB's mounting brackets caused me some alignment issues as I could not get them aligned well enough. I ended up stretching one of them, there will always be some tension on the passenger's side bracket, but it's not that bad. After hours of test fitting the HE, thank god I found the best compromise.

Hey Frank,

I mounted my front AWIC HE yesterday in about an hour and didn't have any issues. I did have to bend the two tabs at the top straight (did you do that?), since they come at a right angle, but once I did that, it all lined up OK. The brackets didn't want to sit perfectly straight, but I clamped them where I wanted them, drilled the rivnut holes, and it ended up fine. I have a new Mishimoto main radiator, not an older design and haven't run the cooling lines yet, but I'm sure (hope?) Craig allowed clearance.

[Mechie3]

Sorry to bear about all your torubles Frank. I test fit mine with an 02-07 radiator. Metros tested his with the same radiator. The only troublemaker for those with the 02-07 radiator will be that the bends might not be perfect 90deg. Sheet metal bending on a manual brake is only so precise. My intent was to have them mount so that the barbs point directly between the frame and radiator.

[Frank818]

I mounted my front AWIC HE yesterday in about an hour and didn't have any issues. I did have to bend the two tabs at the top straight (did you do that?), since they come at a right angle, but once I did that, it all lined up OK. The brackets didn't want to sit perfectly straight, but I clamped them where I wanted them, drilled the rivnut holes, and it ended up fine. I have a new Mishimoto main radiator, not an older design and haven't run the cooling lines yet, but I'm sure (hope?) Craig allowed clearance.

I bent the top tabs at the very end, maybe that's a HUGE mistake, should have done it before, but I didn't cuz I wanted the HE in the right angle (ideally same fwd angle as the main rad). Also I thought on Craig's bracket page it said to bend them at the end, I may have misread. All in all I enlarged the hole on HE lower driver's side for the bracket to have more side angle and I slightly twisted the one on the passenger's side. I also used 10-32 bolts for the brackets on the frame, as 1/4-20 would require me to drill perfect holes without any play in the brackets. The 10-32s are smaller and allowed me some play which helped fitting.

But that would not solve the main rad clearance issue for the hoses anyway. Has nothing to do with the brackets installation.
Measure the clearance between your rad and frame to make sure you have enough space. I bet if it's a 02-07 you are ok. Any close up pic of that area?

[Frank818]

Sorry to bear about all your torubles Frank. I test fit mine with an 02-07 radiator. Metros tested his with the same radiator. The only troublemaker for those with the 02-07 radiator will be that the bends might not be perfect 90deg. Sheet metal bending on a manual brake is only so precise. My intent was to have them mount so that the barbs point directly between the frame and radiator.

No probs Craig it's my fault I went with a not recommended rad, like I said no one would know before. It fits fine now! Those hours paid for it. Fits fine as far as brackets go, the hoses routing that's another story.

[Frank818]

2 months later, sill working on wiring. I guess I burnt a good 150h so far. 12h only and only to hook up my cluster. Probably takes you Subaru guys a couple of seconds using your 3 connector plugs. Every feature and function on my cluster had to be re-designed, matched with Subaru wiring or no-car stuff (custom), re-wired, re-soldered, routed, etc. + the time to mark down everything so I keep trace of what colour does what where! I have too many gizmos too, so the center tunnel is more crowded than I thought, but still less than it would be if I wasn't using InfinityBox. Tnx to that kit to help me customize my harness!

I do not need to buy wires to build my harnesses, as I cut the wires I need from the Subaru harness and solder/crimp them on my devices and stuff. It's great, I cut all connectors, relays, switches, plugs, things I don't know what they are, etc. from the Subaru harness, it's all open, no tape, no tie-wraps, no foam, etc. I pick the colour I want and there you go.

Front/cockpit wiring is almost done, left are my 4 gauges, Wideband (which I don't have it's still on the engine at the shop), boost controller, seats tilting motor switch and seats heating switch. A lot of design in the process.

The rear, I have to wait to get the engine in first, or if I am lucky I can go at the shop, identify ALL the electrical stuff I need and design the thing. Problem is I won't know the right length until the engine is in anyway.

That's only for wiring! After I need to do body and a lot of other alu panels for which both I know it's gonna be a lot of work.
Looks like the car won't be ready in 2015 at that pace. Oh well...

[svanlare]

I have that same sinking "probably not going to be done in 2015 feeling", unless the pace really picks up this summer. Glad to hear the wiring, while slow, is going well. I just got the last of my infinity box order and will be starting on that the next weekend I'm home. At the moments, it is just a ton of notes scribbled in my notebook.

How did you have the master cell programmed? Did you use their stock 818 plan, or did you do something custom due to the nature of your build?

[Frank818]

Tnx for sharing, it encourages me not to sink too much into that feeling. Summer will kill most of my work, as we have only 4 months of "warm" temps around here, there is no way I will want to work on the car on a sunny day and warm temp. I ain't living in California or southern always-warm States.

I have asked myself those Qs a while back and even though I am not yet to that specific task, I got the answers. The MC is reprogrammed using the inCODE module http://shop.infinitybox.com/inCODE-P...p/infcodez.htm from Infinity. You can either buy it or rent it for a month ($50 I think). Jay will provide you with the file/code to upload and you follow some kind of procedure to upload the code into the MC so it reprograms the inputs'/outputs' personalities and in some cases, some special features as well (time delayed stuff, etc. and yes I will need 2 of them).

I did use the stock 818 assignment chart + the Infinity generic rear engine assignment chart + the front engine Visio wiring diagram/schema. I did a mix of all 3 + my own custom stuff (mixing 4 things then), took a while to design but once I got into writing the chart and installation procedure it went pretty fast. A lot of back and forth though, but structured.

So far I really do not regret my buy. It's MY wiring harness and I know it by hart (might forget after a while loll). That has a lot of value to me, though.

[svanlare]

All I found was the PDF's (which are helpful to read, but not modify), were you able to dig up a visio diagram to start with? I was planning on building objects in Eagle CAD to convert my notes into something more permanent.

[Speedy G]

Yeah, do keep "permanent" docs about your wiring. Trust me, at one point I did an automated water/meth spray system with relays as the heart of the logic, and after a year, when it failed, I almost had to dump it and start from scratch. Make some basic schematics, even if they're done in windows draw.

[Frank818]

Hey good old electric Speedy's back!


Right, so yes I do have a lot of stuff written down. I won't do the same mistake I did with my old Corrado when I started adding gizmos, ECUs and modifying wiring for some reasons. When I took out that wiring last summer, I had trouble finding which wire I could cut, where, and what it was for! It took me 6h to get the wiring off the car and that was less than half of all the wiring in the car, but it was all the wiring I needed.

This time I did it right.

Steve you are correct, it's the PDF version of the Visio I was using (one of the 3 docs), so no good for editing. But good to see which wire was used for what and give me some kind of picture in my head. I would like to build my visio based on that one day, it may be crowded, but it would be one picture tells all.

At the moment what I have is first this excel file with the installation guide I alone built:

Infinity1.jpeg

This is just part of the file, it has about 130 lines with such notes and also the mapping of my Subaru cluster wires to the Subaru Security Module connector plug wires soldered to my VW Cluster and other stuff. It's not a 1sec look-up info yet, but it has all the info and I can't be wrong if I want to know which wire does what after I have soldered everything. Every device, switch, gizmo, crap, poop, I have a line to tell me how to connect it and where.

Then I created, from Jay's template he sent me, my own assignment chart, which I have created my own version number too for the fun of it. It is still pending Jay's approval, though. Actually I will poke him again so I can order that inCODE programmer, reprogram everything and test part of the config (rear wires can't be tested until I get the engine in, though I could test the ECU).

Infinity2.jpegInfinity3.jpeg

[Frank818]

Hey! Non-wiring stuff! lolll

Shifter brackets FINALLY made. Ok not as awesome as Tamra's, but hey! Finish is not done yet, but mechanically they work perfect. And with the K-tuned shifter, crap it's so damn short!
You probably recognize the FFR brackets. Flipped around, bent a little, welded and there you go.

2015-03-28 08.19.17.jpg2015-03-28 08.19.28.jpg2015-03-28 08.19.44.jpg

[Erik W. Treves]

I think that forward aft bracket will hit the rear bumper.

[Frank818]

Hey Erik, yes possibly, thought about that. I couldn't take precise measurements last November when we fitted the engine, it couldn't go totally in cuz I need to cut the upper small horizontal cross bars (engine cam cover is too high on the forward end). I think the G50 will not go as far back as the Subaru's gearbox, but I am not 100% sure. If it touches, I'll modify it, no choice. loll

[Frank818]

If anyone's fitting a VR6 in an 818, first I wanna know lolll, 2nd don't forget your oil pan!

Since the VR6 is transverse, the OEM oil pan is made for transverse "normal" G forces. On a car that pulls what, 1.4G lateral? and fitting the VR6 longitudinal, you need to think about oil starvation. Do NOT underestimate that. In order to prevent this situation, I have bought from INA Engineering (Ottawa, Ontario, Canada) a baffled oil pan with 3 turbo oil returns. It's made of steel. This pan will prevent oil starvation in acceleration, braking and cornering.

It is not a dry sump, I could have chosen that but for road I don't need to and I don't have clearance issues either. I think that INA does sell dry sumps if you want one.
Issam at INA is a freakin great guy.


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[Frank818]

Well, here are a few updates.

Wiring DONE! Of course, there are a few left overs cuz the engine is not in yet and all the headlights and stuff are not mocked-up at all, but the wiring design and all of the cockpit+ECU is all done. My engine harness is completed as well.

All in all, 180-200h for the wiring alone. And some people can build the entire car in 250h...

This is what I did for underseat carpeting. Cut triangles and glued them to the underseat alu.
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My engine harness before I cleaned it up. I did not cut wires, just cleaned it and put it in split looms. Last pic is the ECU harness/plugs.
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Solution to the underbatt tray, glued some noise reduction EZCool matts.

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And my wiring. I also need to finalize securing everything in place, but I won't do it until I close up the dash and console, which will be after the body work is all done, in many months from now! Looks crowded and not professional installation, but on close inspection all is well done, nothing will rub and cut on something, built myself some plugs to ease installation/removal. The only thing is I cut time on looks. Everything will be hidden all the time, except for myself when I get the dash out, so why bother with kick *ss installation looks.
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I have not seen anyone mentioning anything about the J bolts for the battery. These are hard to bolt/unbolt cuz you have to stretch your arms and blindly ply the bottom of the J while you bolt the nut on top. But have you tried doing that when the rad is on, wheels, fenders, alu block off plates and body panels? Good luck. So I welded in place a 3/16 squared plated steel rod (could use a round one too, I prefered squared cuz it sits flush and tight on the underbatt panel). Made me practice my welding from underneath and on very small pieces. The first end was easy, but the second one I cut it 1/64 too short! So I had to work around the gap between the rod's end and J's end, I managed. Need to powder coat it and no more J bolts turning around in circle when I bolt/unbolt it! Can do it one handed.

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[Canadian818]

Congrats! Huge hurdle. I'm dreading wiring.

[svanlare]

Congrats on finishing the wiring! I'm now starting to clean up my donor wiring and realized the pallet donor I bough only had the body harness but not the rear, front, or instrument harnesses. So figuring that out too and I'm now well behind you. Guess it time to take some vacation time here.

[Frank818]

Tnx buds.

Yes that process is very long when you start from square 1 or 2, it's a project on its own. And I don't even know yet if everything works. What if I made a mistake somewhere, what if the low or high oil pressure alarm doesn't work, what if I swapped 2 wires, what if I connected ground to 12v+... I'll have to be very awake when I'll do my tests, but that's a task I have to go through, it's mandatory. The tests will tell me how good/bad an electrical guy I am. lolll

So Steve what are you going to do with your instrument harness? Build one or buy one?
If you take some vacation time, you might think about these future ordeals all the time and screw up your vacation.