Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

[Frank818]

If I change clutch MC it'd be my 3rd. But I've been through 3 sets of rear bearings, 2 fronts, 2 sets of 4 spindles, 2 MC brake... lolll A clutch MC is not expensive. I'll troubleshoot a little more and if I can't work it out I'll get a new one.

Bob shortening the rod should put less pressure on the fluid then? You really mean the rod in the MC that attaches to the pedal box and pushes onto the diaphragme of the MC?

The MC is pumping fluid through the output hole, but I don't know if it does it as designed.
I cannot pump fluid through the line, cuz it pumps a few inches out and takes it back in, if the hard line is empty (which it is), then the fluid moves a few inches in and then back in the MC.
Pumping by hand is a good idea to test.
The vacuum bleeder didn't help.
The slave is attached at the bottom of the gearbox, say at the same level as the X bars on the rear gearbox support, I'd need to either raise the gearbox and engine by 2 feet or lower by 2 feet the MC. Not sure I follow you I this test?
Maybe I could test by removing the line at the slave and pumping air out?


Axles, DSS does not know why it's different than ours, but they do know it fits on the same spindle assembly as we checked our spindles and they have the same measurements. Since they sold more than 1 sets of their Level 5 CVs to 2002-2007 WRXs and they never complained, I then believe I'm missing something. DSS asked me to try removing the inner seal #2 and see what happens. I wonder the consequences of removing that seal, though. Dust, dirt, etc. And if other owners did that or not. I think the DSS guy doesn't know how the seals are installed on the Subaru. I believe they did it once when they designed the part and since it worked they never retest it. Which makes sense.
If that doesn't work, I may send off my assemby to them to figure out.

[STiPWRD]

The slave is attached at the bottom of the gearbox, say at the same level as the X bars on the rear gearbox support, I'd need to either raise the gearbox and engine by 2 feet or lower by 2 feet the MC. Not sure I follow you I this test?
Maybe I could test by removing the line at the slave and pumping air out?

Unbolt the slave cylinder from the gear box and raise it up as high as it can go (still connected to the clutch line). Use a C-clamp on the slave piston so it cannot move. Then pump the master cylinder until you begin to feel resistance. This is what worked for me.

[Frank818]

Axles
No change at all with the seal removed, which means it works as designed and wraps around the CV without preventing it from going in any further. However the 1st inner seal is stopping the CV from going any further in. I have asked DSS a few Qs and I'll see if I ship them my assembly. Very disappointing.

Clutch
Hey, I think Bob's trick will work! Before I go with longer tests, making the rod shorter (or longer) seems to help. Actually I unscrewed the C clip on the rod that attaches to the pedal box by as much as I could get, which equals 1/2", not 1/8. Now for the the C clip's holes to align with the pedal box's holes I have to push the rod in the MC. Currently the C clip's holes hide about 95% of the pedal box's holes when not pushed in. When I press the pedal, it pushes the rod much further, so much I have to use a stick to prevent the pedal from releasing (except in the first tries, cuz there wasn't enough fluid in the line). That's good.
Then I open the bleeder, it pops a lot of pressure out, 1/3 of it is air, which means it's not bled yet, then I close the bleeder. When pressure drops, the stick drops on the footrest and the pedal goes to the metal. Then the trick is here: I slowly release the pedal by hand, then I disconnect the C clip and let the rod come back another 1/2" to no pressure at all and suck up some more fluid. I wait 1min for air to move up as much as possible, I push 1/2" the rod in and slide my temporary 5/16 screw into the holes so that the rod doesn't move. Then I repeat the sequence until no air comes out the bleeder.

So far I have not have time to complete it, will continue tomorrow.
I have to fill the reservoir every 1-2 shot I do, so it must push the fluid in the line.

2016-01-11 17.21.19_1.jpg



On another note, I am ditching the VR6 in favour of one of these (now that you just read this, you are obligated to listen):

[svanlare]

I guess fitting the VR6 was too easy and you needed another challenge

[Frank818]

Yeah true, which also explains why I'm having all sort of issues outside the VR6.


CLUTCH
I think Bob worked it out! No air in the system now. I can't tell if it engages, I need to put oil in the gearbox and start the engine to ensure it works, the G50 is a rough gearbox when cold or engine not running. Sad thing cuz in order to fix a small design issue with my shifter bracket I need to engage 1st gear and I never was able to do it. I'll have to wait for the engine to run. Couple of months (bad weather).

Front spindles
I have bought a set of bearings and seals, which comes with 2 hubs, was less expensive than buying 2 sets of bearings/seals. Since I'll get new hubs, I decided to buy longer 50mm studs in case I need spacers.
While I was removing the spindles, I broke the threads of my tie-rod ends, so I found a rebate and bough a new set for $15. Overall $200USD in expenses for the front spindles. I have to win the 1.4B Power Ball. I'll give you all 2MM each!

[svanlare]

What year is the G50 from? The early ones had a shift fork mod that was common because the original design would bind.

[Frank818]

G50/01 1988. Yeah I am building a 2016 (or 2017!) car with 1988 drivetrain.

I believe it's the 2nd gen, post-mid 1988, which has a different fork design from the 1st gen. Not too sure how to check on that by the serial number, but I could ask my mech who opened it and checked all parts how the fork is designed.



Update on AXLES
I will ship my assembly to DSS as they have no clue. They sell DAILY that huge CV to people and no one ever complained about it. And believe me, at that price, anyone with a problem would certainly come back to DSS.
I will probably include one of my rear outer CV with that, but which side should I ship? They are quite different looking. I can take a pic and show you.

[svanlare]

Pretty sure you can tell by the bolt/bar the the fork attaches to. PelicanParts might have a serial number breakdown. Been a while since I lost mine :-(

Rocking the wheels might allow you to get it into first so you can do your test.

[Frank818]

Well, according to Pelican this changed starting April 6 1989. So I got the old kit and I am sure the bushings aren't bronze, as my mech ordered from his Porsche OEM provider. However the parts are new, I'm sure they will last long enough for me to change them without having an issue. I'll change that at the same time as I change the gear ratios, which is during the winter after I'll drive the car for a full summer, probably winter 2018.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...7&KeepHeader=Y


http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...G50_clutch.htm



I wouldn't have known about that without your comment, so tnx for the heads up!


On a side note, I shipping my 23lbs spindle assembly to DSS this morning, along with an OEM CV (the one mirror finish without the thin lip).

[Frank818]

Steps before 1st start:
1- Getting my rear spindles ready
2- Installing axles
3- Completing wiring
4- Plugging wiring
5- Finishing coolant lines (7 weeks already from China, 3 of the 3 shipments had issues, 2 aren't fixed yet)
6- Stiffening throttle cable
7- Upgrading my InfinitiBox with new rules
8- Installing shift cables
9- Fixing shifter brackets
10-Installing tunnel cover and rear ebrake cover
11- Completing AWIC tank support bracket
12- Bleeding brakes
13- Fixing and Bleeding clutch
14- Fixing rear shock tower brace
15- Filling engine with oil
16- Filling trans with oil
17- Filling engine with coolant
18- Filling AWIC with coolant
19- Upgrading ECU to latest software
20- Tuning a few ECU parms
21- Testing wiring
22- Fixing DSS CV issue
23- Replacing front spindles
24- First start!


Well I am still waiting for my barb fittings and 3/8 coolant lines, very long. And still waiting for InfinityBox parts! 2 months now, I can't believe it.

Oh well in the meantime I fixed for REAL my rear shock tower brace. See how close to the mount plates the sides are now? Just the weight of my hand and the FG bends, without bending anywhere on the part, I'm very happy with that. Now clearance compromise, the engine keeps its clearance, it's just the sides that are lower than the middle, so I removed the extended portion on top of the bar seen on my old pix. I am painting it now.

Also painting my 2 front spindles. One of my rear is in NC now. So I can't fit the body! Not even to test fit it, cuz I need the spindles/wheels to be in place, and aligned, so that I ensure they are centered in the wheel well.

What can I do now... I installed the latches on the doors following Tamra's guide. Easy stuff, not long, but I can't install anything else than the latches, cuz for the rest I need the body (side sails) to be on and at their final location.

Well this week I'll try to do some cockpit finish, on the rear alu FW covers, carpets and stuff like that. A little too early but there's not much else I can do.


2016-01-17 12.50.07_1.jpg2016-01-17 12.50.23-1_1.jpg2016-01-17 12.54.30_1.jpg

[Frank818]

The early ones had a shift fork mod that was common because the original design would bind.

After looking with flashlight under the gearbox (on top, if you install it like a Porsche), I was able to see brass bushings and stuff like on the pix I found on internet. I guess I have the update fork parts.

[svanlare]

Good news there at least!

[Frank818]

InfinityBox parts on the way!

AXLES
DSS working on it! I suggested they try both inner seals on their own test spindle.


BRACE
Well after some nice POR-15, here's the final result:

2016-01-20 17.01.45_1.jpg


Still waiting on some Chinese parts, got some, one of them was wrong size, lost 5 weeks. Can't finish my cooling lines.

[Frank818]

Updated my list of first start to-do's.

InfinityBox wiring is awesome. That thing is super quick, I press the button on my tablet and it's at least as fast as a rocker switch. So far wiring was very reliable. My cluster functions work! Even the VW MFA using the Subaru column, for those VW geeks who know what I'm talking about.

Fuel level sender not working, need to check on wiring, don't know how to wire that thing.
ECU doesn't seem to trigger the fuel pump but the wiring post-ECU works. I accidentally CRANKED the engine this morning when I triggered the fuel pump, for some reason it triggered the START button of InfinityBox, not sure why, but I don't care much since I bypassed the system. The Porsche race starter has a nice sound.

Made a few wiring mistakes, for example when I press on the brake pedal it triggers the oil cooler fan. loll I fixed that.

All in all so far I tested 80%+ of the wiring and maybe just 5% didn't work. Only fuel sender and fuel pump trigger are not fixed yet.


Refreshed front spindles:

2016-01-31 09.04.24_1.jpg


InfinityBox inTOUCH controls when using my phone:

2016-02-01 21.13.04.png2016-02-01 21.16.21.png


Offered myself a gift with this upgraded BOV. These are to me the best and quickest BOVs on the market. They made a new one this Jan and offered a 50% rebate to existing owners. I couldn't resists, especially that now you get a choice of anodized colours! I am one of the first 5 in the world to get the blue version and one of the first 10 to get the new model SB003.

2016-02-02 16.26.10_1.jpg


Back on Infinity, that thing is so secured the way I wired it. I had connectivity issues at first to the wifi controls (requires wifi module PW + interface PW) and that's when I found out there's nothing I can electrically test on the car without the wifi control. Someone trying to steal the car by cranking the engine would not be able to, unless he bypasses the entire system and that means powering the ACC, IGN and starter (+ others) with an external source or rebuilding some of the wiring. No matter what, you need to build wiring in order to power that thing bypassing Infinity. Good luck, even I would need many hours to do it and I know where my wires are and what they are for. Only way to steal my car is on a tow truck. Can't do anything about that.

DSS axles! They found the problem, will machine a new CV for me, for free, without losing any torque strength. I am sending back, for free, the axles and they will change the CVs for me. I love that company.

[Frank818]

Some updates for different kinds of people.

Infinity Box--I blew up my Mastercell, the brain of the system. Actually, that thing has a lot of protection, so I blew 2 diodes which then protected the circuit board from frying. So I tested its electrical security features. loll I am sending it back to InfinityBox in Chicago for repairs. I did that cuz I soldered my 1N4001 diodes the wrong way. Son of a...
Besides the fuel pump trigger which I couldn't test, everything else I did and all was working with a charm, a big charm. That system reacts within 10ms and that's not me saying that. For example I changed my rad fan temperature value in order to test the trigger and as soon as I pressed the F4 button (it then updates my map on the ECU), the rad fan kicked in! No time for nothing, it was so quick! And that command went through 2 systems, my ECU and then the Infinity stuff.
The system is very stable. No flicker, no high or low current, no overheats, nothing at all. Everything was flowing voltage so smoothly. I'm impressed about that system. It does deliver for the price. It also means I did a great job on the wire quality, soldering quality and connectivity quality, including so far a good ground. We'll see when I drive the car.


Now on the VR6 side. Those of you stupid enough like me to fit a VR6 will certainly have something to think about regarding the fuel gauge, as VW does not, to my knowledge, support a 0-90ohms sender, and not the other american types as well. There are many solutions to that. Currently my simplest is to add about 275ohms on the line which will use the half bottom portion of the gauge on the cluster. Not super cool, but anyway FFR's solution does not see the level until about half of the tank! So why bother having something super precise when you won't see a change until it's half empty? The good news is when it'll be half empty, my gauge should read half empty too. Whereas it would read full with a Subaru cluster and half on the Subaru cluster would equal 1/4 in the tank.

I am also working with my uncle, a great electrical teacher, to find a solution to convert the 0-90 signal into 50-350ohms. By simulating a different current for the ohms the VW cluster is expected to receive, we could achieve something more precise than the linear 275ohms resistance.

The MK3 reads 50ohms full, about 160 half and 350 empty. YMMV, cuz at 95ohms I am reading 40-45%, wereas I should be over 50% as per the Bentley manual.
The Subaru reads 0 full and 90 empty.

I knew matching VW and Subaru would cause problems somewhere, but it seems it's only on the fuel gauge. I can even use the VW MFA function through the Subaru steering column.

[STiPWRD]

Made a few wiring mistakes, for example when I press on the brake pedal it triggers the oil cooler fan. loll I fixed that.

At least you didn't wire your brake pedal like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOq1S3XxVaA

DSS axles! They found the problem, will machine a new CV for me, for free, without losing any torque strength.

What was the issue?

[Frank818]

Yeah good old prank! Luckily my horn isn't installed yet so it wouldn't be as bad as on the video.


DSS issue on the CVs, well it's not a full explanation, but physically the CV fits perfect when the first inner seal isn't there. The thickness of the seal, once fitted, pushes the CV inside by the exact distance I was short of. Their test spindle has no seals on, but that doesn't explain why they say it fits with seals on and that they sell a bunch of these CVs daily and never got a problem. That doesn't add up to me.

But they will machine a new CV that will fit with the seals on using my spindle, for free. That's all I need, although my curiosity isn't answered.

[choobs]

I am also working with my uncle, a great electrical teacher, to find a solution to convert the 0-90 signal into 50-350ohms. By simulating a different current for the ohms the VW cluster is expected to receive, we could achieve something more precise than the linear 275ohms resistance.

The MK3 reads 50ohms full, about 160 half and 350 empty. YMMV, cuz at 95ohms I am reading 40-45%, wereas I should be over 50% as per the Bentley manual.
The Subaru reads 0 full and 90 empty.

AH yes, I ran into a similar problem when researching a mk1 TT cluster swap into my mk3 Jetta. The solution in that case was to make a new lever for the float that allowed the fuel level sender to read close to normal. The only way to make it 100% accurate is to use a microprocessor. The conversion program itself wouldn't be too difficult but you'd need to the bench tools to write the EEPROM. However, from the limited knowledge I have on MPs, they mostly work on input/output voltage. I guess ones exist that could have a current controlled output on them. But basically as the resistance value changes on the fuel level sender, the voltage drop across that component also changes unless it is the only electrical load in the circuit. Which if you have the fuel level sender unit and a microprocessor, you could probably monitor voltage drop pretty easily. Seems like an interesting problem to tackle!

[Hindsight]

What's this, a third VW guy on the 818 forums?!

[choobs]

What's this, a third VW guy on the 818 forums?!

Guilty as charged! My VW history isn't too extensive but I've learned a lot from owning them! What I have owned:

1996 Jetta 2.slow - turbocharged it a few times before blowing the trans in it.
2006.5 Rabbit 2.5 - the reliable car I bought whilst going back to school to re-career. The 2.5 is a really solid engine, never a problem.
2001 Audi A4 1.8TQ - the car I bought upon finishing school. It was pretty much a debt machine.
1992 Corrado SLC - current project.

How I found this thread was my interest in the 818c and stuffing a 3.6 VR6 into it instead of the 2.8. Thus I found Frank's thread and the rest is history lol

[Hindsight]

Hah, I have similar experiences. I have a 2.5 in a 1993 Eurovan pushing close to 200k and still runs great. The one Audi I owned (04 S4) was also a debt machine. Nicest car I have ever owned while at the same time being the biggest POS.

I'm really looking forward to seeing and hearing Frank's car run. VR6 turbos all sound incredible.

[choobs]

The one Audi I owned (04 S4) was also a debt machine. Nicest car I have ever owned while at the same time being the biggest POS.

The 4.2 V8??? You brave soul lol.

I also cannot wait for Frank's car to start! Seems like he is getting closer!

[Frank818]

3 VW guys only? I thought we were a little more... maybe the others are just hidding hush hush lolll

The RS4 is apparently a bigger debt machine, some model years at least were quite sensitive in terms of reliability. But they kick ***!!! And they sound one of the best I've heard if you fit the right exhaust. One close to where I live has a midnight blue RS4 lowered with some exhaust so deep and rowling! He's the best I've heard. I'd fit his engine in the 818 any time! Once I retire from work, though.

Now I am waiting for one last part I ordered in Dec, I ordered from another seller last week cuz it's taking too long, let's see who arrives first, or arrives at all. loll That part, a simple brass fitting I couldn't find around, will close the cooling lines and then all is ok.

I need to get my DSS axles back, install my rear spindles, install my front spindles, get my InfinityBox MasterCell back from repairs and yeah, everything else is in place for a start, maybe not a drive but at least a start and possibly a short roll in the driveway.

3 months. I don't expect to get my parts back until then. I expect Infinity and DSS to delay my repairs, for some reason... experience, probably.

This is why I really start to need FFR's nose body parts so that I can start on the body in the meantime.

[wleehendrick]

3 VW guys only? I thought we were a little more... maybe the others are just hidding hush hush lolll

I wouldn't call myself a 'VW guy', but I have had a VW AG vehicle in the garage for 20+ years. I drove an 87 GTI 16V for many, many years. That car got me through college in upstate NY, road tripping to Canada and Florida. I drove it out to CA with my dad, and it got me through grad school and road trips to Mexico. I drove it til the wheels fell off, then we got an 05 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T 6MT for my wife; it's now my current DD, and a great car. It's been fairly reliable with one $$$ exception (a cracked cylinder head last year ).

[Hindsight]

My S4 had to have the engine removed, and every/all gasket that touched the cooling system (including head gaskets) had to be replaced due to faulty gasket material used by Audi. It was a known issue with early 04 S4s but Audi opted not to issue a recall for it (surprise). Fortunately I had an extended warranty and the $6k repair bill was covered by that. Other issues I had with it were: Windows wouldn't roll up and stay up (anti pinch kept kicking in), transmission would simply pop out of second gear all the time, glove box door latch failed so glove box wouldn't stay closed ($400 for the new door lol), needed a new ECU (wouldn't pass emissions because readiness codes wouldn't appear).

And now I have a 2013 Passat TDI that is impacted by the Dieselgate scandal. I love the car though. Been perfectly reliable, great power, size, economy. However, the DSG transmission now sounds like a box of steel ball bearings being ground up and the dealer keeps saying "perfectly normal!" That said, it doesn't have any issues shifting.

Sorry we are thread-jacking you to talk about VAG stuff Frank lol.

[Frank818]

Anyone who owned a GTI 16v is definitely a true VW guy. And drove across country and to other countries around (hard to drive through more than 3 countries in North America loll).

6k? Crap you could buy 2-3 VR6s for that price! lolll
Yeah your 13 TDI is impacted by the scandal, but so what? It doesn't affect the car per se, it's just that it pollutes more than expected. Unless you bought it for sake of the Earth...

Got my part I ordered on Dec 26. However it's TOTALLY not as described, including that I have ordered 2 and I got 10 of a totally different item. I'll get a refund. Good thing I bought the items earlier this week from another place. Money is not a prob, time is, I have wasted almost 3 months once I'll get the parts... oh well, at least I can read VW/Audi stories! No Porsches around? Come on guys, someone must have had a 911 or 914... or better, a 959? If you did, I wanna see it!!!

[Hindsight]

I WANTED a 16v GTI and a Porsche, does that count? In the early 90's guys were swapping the 16v engines into rabbits, which was always a fun sleeper.

Whats the part you are trying to get?

[choobs]

6k? Crap you could buy 2-3 VR6s for that price! lolll

in the states, you can buy a VR6 complete motor for like $500. Will probably cost you $1500 to get it back to 100%

[Frank818]

I WANTED a 16v GTI and a Porsche, does that count? In the early 90's guys were swapping the 16v engines into rabbits, which was always a fun sleeper.

Whats the part you are trying to get?

Yes you're in.


3/4BSP male to 19mm hose barb, as stupid as that. (I do have the 10mm barb to 3/4BSP female on the other side)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171934365021...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Do not buy from ebay seller WONDERFULWORLD2014.

Sure I could have bought many other solutions to connect a 10mm hose (3/8) to 19mm (3/4), but most of them cost US40-50 with shipping, I took the decision to find a solution around US10-15 even though I had to wait 2 months. I didn't realize though this ebay seller was the same who sent me wrong item a few months ago. Now I won't forget.

[Hindsight]

Those BSP fittings can be tough to find, IMHO.

[Frank818]

Yes they are, but like I said there are a few other solutions, except they all cost 40-50+ for me, which is why I went with this one as there were sellers selling the fittings (4 fittings in total, 2 males and 2 females). Even the coolant 3/8 hose wasn't easy to find at a low price. Local shops didn't have that small, needed to go on ebay again. I do have the hose right now, though.

I currently have PVC fittings on the car for that 19mm to 10mm, but the solution is too much and somewhat stupid and not clean. I have 2 PVC fittings on each hose (2 hoses), 3/4 to 1/2 and then 1/2 to 3/8. This requires a lot of clamps and it limits the flexibility of the hose cuz the fittings are long, even though I cut them shorter. I am having difficulties trying to route the hoses correctly and keep enough clearance, I need a short fitting straight from 19mm to 10mm in one step. So I went with those BSPs.

On another note, I made a change to my VW cluster for which I need to upload a pic and show those who would use a similar cluster what little trick to do. Once I won't forget to upload it, I'll explain.


Every day I am dreaming about what kind of sound will come out of this monster. Can't wait...

[Frank818]

Many don't get this, I'm sharing.

The 818 manual has recently been updated. Attached is a PDF containing the updates that were made. They include:

- Removing and Preparing the Donor Parts
- Kit Parts Prep
- Chassis Build-Up
- Under Car Aluminum
- Rear CV Axle Assembly
- Shifter Linkage
- Upper Seat Belt Mount
- Side Cooling Tubes
- Seat Mounting
- Body Mounting
- Door Latches/Strikers
- Headlights
- Front Turn Signals and Parking Lights
- Headlight Bucket
- Headlight Lenses
- Windshield/Hardtop

http://click.icptrack.com/icp/relay....alRev1P-Update

[Frank818]

For those who plan on using an old VW cluster, you know the ebrake indicator light is not part of the cluster, it's elsewhere on the dash. On the Corrado is was part of a double indicator light on the dash, ebrake and ABS.

I have seen nothing in the regulation in QC that requires a seat belt warning light, so I used that slot for my ebrake warning light. I printed a parking brake pictograph from google to the right scale and glued it onto the seat belt pictograph! Good old pictographs with a light BESIDES and not those recent clusters that use the pictograph itself as a light! Was pretty easy. In your face, regulation engineer! lolll

2016-02-09 05.42.23_1.jpg

[wallace18]

Where there is a will there is a way. Good job Frank. This is certainly a big project that you are doing so well on.

[AZPete]

Nicely done, Frank. Especially the "in your face" yell!

[Frank818]

Important hit (again) earlier this week. While testing my fuel gauge signal in order to get a decent level on the VW cluster, I blew up my cluster's PC board. The fuel gauge is now non-functional, that's very easy to fix by bypassing the board which is virtually unfixable, good luck knowing the specs of that resistance and the small 3-tripod transistor besides. Easy fix on the gauge, but I also blew up my MFA (multifunction display) which displays a lot of things by the press of a button (I was able to reproduce using Subaru's column), including OAT and most importantly, oil temp, which I look at all the time. Finding a compatible board is extremely hard, since it's 23yo and only God knows which other part #s have the same functions and T28 plug specs. I will obviously lose my mileage and it's not easy to reset on the MK3s. That is IF I find a compatible board.

It's really sad, but these things happen when you make a ****ING STUPID MISTAKE! I have to find an acceptable solution, although it will probably never be as cool as it could have been.
So much work on that cluster in the past 10 years and SO MUCH to make it fit with the 818 and specific VW sensors, all gone in fumes...

2016-02-21 13.46.07_1.jpg

[Hindsight]

Oh man, sorry to hear that Frank! The good news is that they made a TON of these and a lot of them will be in the junk yards so you should have an easy time finding one. I wouldn't bother searching for a board - just go to eBay and get a whole new cluster. But there are over a dozen listed there now that would be compatible with yours, and probably not very expensive either. Thesamba.com classifieds is also pretty good for this stuff.

[svanlare]

Ouch, I'm bummed to see the roller coaster continues for you, I was so hoping after the axels that things would go on a smooth streak for you.

[Frank818]

Unbelievable updates. You won't believe it.


CLUSTER
After blowing up my fuel gauge I completed my tests and everything else works. I can bypass the cluster no problem and simulate signal to the gauge. Will do.
Tnx guys for supporting me, either here or email.


FRONT SPINDLES
Finally got my spindles assembled. The inner seals I got with the complete bearing kit don't fit! By 1mm OD. What a bad luck eh... I have to order a set, I'm getting used to this ****ing ****.


BRASS FITTINGS
To complete my coolant hoses, 2 BSP brass fittings required, bought Dec 6th then some more again Feb 6th and still no sign!


INFINITYBOX WIRING SYSTEM
While doing my initial tests, I made a mistake and blew up a diode in the Mastercell. I sent it back to the guys, they repaired it for FREE and shipped it back to me for FREE. Hello!!!! I am in Canada they are in US! For FREE! That is awesome.

The guys at IBox are sometimes busy when they get a huge load of parts to setup and ship. But once they are in a normal work day, they respond often and don't hesitate to send an email again if after a week you get nothing. Jay, the owner or co-owner, is often on the road, so be patient or send again. You can also use their Contact Form on their website, the respond to all questions from there.

When you ask for a code update, they test it using YOUR complete config before emailing you the code for update. If you fail to test it properly, chances are you screwed up on something on your end. They do quality assurance on their products. And they challenge you when you need a special function, they do all they have to do to ensure your function won't brake something else in the system, cuz they want to keep it reliable. They work with you and for you.

It's high priced but you get a lot for it and free repair+shipping is very rare these days. Will I get a free repair all the time I don't know, but usually if you blew up something it's when you test your system and usually you test it when you build it and connect your stuff. Once the car works, you don't need much to test again.

I now have all setup. My fuel pump trigger works, my after-run cooling function works (fans and aux pump ON for 5mins after shutdown when I press on the button), all is good there and ready for a start.


DSS AXLES
Oh yeah that saga. A while back I sent out the rear spindle to DSS along with the axles to get the CVs changed. No way they could not machine some that wouldn't fit and I have sent them one of the rear OEM CV too.
They shipped me back the stuff earlier this week, 2 boxes. On the delivery day, 2 trucks were delivering. I saw the first guy driving out of my driveway, he never rang the ****ing bell, stupid ****ing *******!! He left a ****ing UPS notice. I was pissed, called UPS and complained like a mother ****er. The 2nd guy was carrying the axles. He never delivered! At 7h30PM while I was on the phone with UPS to complain again, the status changed on the website to Could not deliver will try again tomorrow. What **** you ****ing *******?? I arranged things so that the next day I would pick up the ****ing boxes myself. I did.

So I test fitted the axles, the CVs are quite different. And they DON'T fit!!! Even worse than the original CVs I got from DSS. What the **** ****ing son of ***** ****? WTF?? What?? I was on the verge of crying, crumbled or tumbled, whichever word in English, on my knees, head down on the ground and hammering the floor with both my fists.

I mailed them, got a reply on Saturday saying I have to fit them without the seals. What the ****?? Dust will wear out the bearings, I need seals. DSS will check on Monday to help.

What did I do to deserve all these ****ing issues? Come on, let me breath for a while, let me start that engine, let me go kart it, plz...

What do you guys think of not using either one of the inner seals in the back? Is it ok, dust-wise, to not use the seal on the bearing and use the one on the CV or not use the one on the CV and use the one on the bearing?

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[Hindsight]

Hmmm, I would definitely use the seals. If you don't, your bearings won't explode or anything and if you don't drive it in the dirt and rain much they will simply have a reduced life. Again, would NOT be my choice but you have to weight it against your options. I'm guessing they went bigger on the CVs and now the seals won't fit right? So they may or may not have a smaller CV but it won't be as strong. Are you running the STI rear spindles? I think their housing might be larger in diameter (to fit the larger CVs)... but I could be remembering that wrong. Might be an option for you.

Yeah, this is what happens the further you stray from the typical build It'll be worth it in the end though.

And yes, signature required delivery is the absolute WORST thing ever! It always happens for stuff you really need and can't be home for. Then they are closed for the weekend or something so you can't get it until Monday.