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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #1521
    Frank,
    Glad to hear your so close. Hope it all goes well.

    Happy to get feedback on Eagle Eyes.. You may remember when I tested them last winter, I told you they were less than 1 watt compared to the advertised 10 watts. Thanks for info.. I wont use mine,
    just be a science experiment!!

  2. #1522
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    Definitely, I do remember.
    If you think people will see you are indicating to turn left so they won't accelerate and hit you in the fender or door, well my guess is there is 20% chances they will see you are indicating to turn left (given the FFR's new headlights are very bad to see the lights from a left angle) and I believe that is only if they put attention to your lights. If they don't, the lights will probably not attract their attention (the rest of the car will) and they won't know what you're about to do. This increases chances of a collision, doesn't mean there will be one, just that to my opinion after what I tested, others have low chances to see your intentions with the Eagle Eyes or LED Strips (of 9w).
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  3. #1523
    Yes, I love Technology aquillen's Avatar
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    << These amber Chinese lights are almost imperceptible outside, even on a cloudy day, just imagine when sunny. >>

    We should have known better, but sometimes get caught up in the chase. The switchback driver should be able to handle a lot more light - will have to test that, assuming I can find some suitable/better lights. I'm going to look into what's available and also do some lumens measurements when I get a chance. Would like to continue with the program but with proper visibility. I'd wonder if the DMV guys at your end will snoop cat-eyes.

    Also obvious they have someone dedicated to really examining the kit cars in extensive detail. I don't recall hearing of that anywhere in the US. Just keep it a secret that Indiana is about as close to a do-what-you-want place as can be. (Hmmm is it even safe to get out on the roads here?). I can tell you this - drive on I-65 between Chicago and Indianapolis and you better have an 85MPH capable or better vehicle or you'll get run-over like a possum.

    Oh- and-
    Love your car man - great job !!!
    Art Quillen

  4. #1524
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    I have a video showing the differences between the EE/Strip and standard SAE TS outside. I am not posting it yet because I want to try a few more and see if I get the same results, although it was pretty obvious on Monday in person.

    Yes the DMV has someone full time on that. He might doing other things but all part of the "vehicle security" department. Currently he is soon going to read IBox's website to see how my wifi system works, to control functions. Seems to be something twitchy for them, although at the moment mine is ok. But for example, I cannot lock the tablet if not all of the controls to "drive" a car are available outside of the tablet.

    He approved the EE only for the white LEDs acting as parking lights. Those don't need to be powerful. And they aren't in sunlight, well they are ok but not big enough. The whites would greatly benefit to be bigger but it's still acceptable as they are now. The ambers, need both, bigger and more powerful. Don't forget, when you are 80-deg on the side of the car (at a 4-way stop for instance), the headlight's round sockets are barely visible cuz too much inside the headlight and the fiberglass contour cuts some of the view. It's hard to see a light, even powerful, at that angle with these headlights design. If the EEs are not powerful than it's even worse.

    I already knew the EE (amber TS) weren't powerful, I tested their lumens with a cell app in March and compared with my Subaru's TS. The difference was about 5 to 8 times less powerful, depending on the angle you look at.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-10-2017 at 04:42 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  5. #1525
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    My car officially weighs 1050kg (uh, 2330lbs).
    If I get 450whp, which I'm pretty sure I can, that's about 520bhp assuming a 15% loss. Makes it 0.22bhp/lbs.
    Veyron SS with 1200bhp has 0.296bhp/lbs. Not bad.

    The NRG quick release s/w hub has been approved by my DMV, cuz it has a safety feature, it's not possible to remove the wheel by just pulling the paddles.

    The Police passed by for stolen parts inspection. The girl actually was there to look at things, take notes and open a case file. Then she sent that info to the technician policeman who in turn will call me back to schedule a rdv in my garage. That guy will check every single invoice I got, check all parts, etc. The lead time to get that rdv is... 1 month.

    So the car will sit there untouched or so until I get that rdv. I think I will tow it to the dyno and get that done completely before inspection.

    I inadvertently fixed my hard to open driver's door. Turned out the screw inside the handle was not tight enough, the handle was therefore at an angle and made it harder to pull totally on the rod. Works like a charm now, makes me much happier.

    2017-08-09 11.05.53_1.jpg2017-08-09 11.06.04_1.jpg2017-08-09 11.06.19_1.jpg2017-08-09 11.21.44_1.jpg

    Guy in black shirt is my favorite tower or towing man. On the last pic, don't you think her behind looks like Kim Kardashian's?

    Many people came talking to me while moving the car around. Even some in the 80s. The only way to escape the mob is to drive without stopping. loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  6. #1526
    Just getting back to the forum after a bit away.... WOW!!!!! I'm not surprised there is a mob you have to deal with. Stunning job Frank
    -Steve

  7. #1527
    Frank, your car looks great!
    I know you spent a lot of time on it but you can be proud of the way it looks.
    Hope your approval comes in soon.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  8. #1528
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    Tnx Steve and Harley.


    Since I have nothing to do for 1 month I thought of going on the dyno Monday. But with the splitter and diffuser I don't think it's possible to attach the dyno hooks.

    I posted in General section but where are the best attach points if I remove the splitter and diffuser?
    If you think I can keep them on, then great!! But where to attach anyway?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  9. #1529
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    Confirmed, DYNO RUNS (1, 2 maybe up to 3 hours) on Monday 14th @ 8ham.

    Do you guys think it's best to shut down the engine every time I am modifying values in the computer and looking around? Would that help the engine from over heating?

    This will be a perfect test for my axles and CV Boots. If they all hold up for those runs and I don't see any visual weird things on them, then I'll know they should last good.

    Will attach the straps on the alu LCAs and gearbox frame underneath, the X that is there.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  10. #1530
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    Video of TS comparison (@Art, gotta check this).



    I wanted not to show anyone the OEM TS I had to install, cuz I will upgrade for approved powerful LEDs in a while, but since I cannot pass inspection until probably mid-Sept, I didn't want to wait more. So I am exposing the solution I've been ashamed of, but remember, I will upgrade for cool LEDs soon!
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 06:21 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  11. #1531
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    My took hook has been approved. That was very unexpected, but very welcomed as I don't need to keep a 18mm and 21mm wrenches in the car along with the hook itself. In a nutshell, if the hook isn't too pointy and does not extend beyond the vertical line of the front of the car, you may well be ok.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  12. #1532
    Really like the color and how everything turned out. I'm hoping you get video of the dyno.

  13. #1533
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    I have Mike Everson's hard coolant lines with the rad inlet on the top right (passenger's side).

    There is that plastic black fill cap overflow coupler with 13240 written upside down.

    Does anyone know what type it is? American? European? Japanese?

    All I know is that that Behr cap fits.

    I'm trying to change the cap as it opens around 22psi (150kpa) and let's a lot of coolant flow into the rad's overflow tank, so the coolant that is in my VW overflow tank located higher is flowing there. If I open up the cap, it will spill cuz there is coolant at a higher level (my engine head sits quite higher too).

    I'm trying to know the hole size, probably around 1.5", and what type that coupler is. People selling fill caps often don't know their size, they just know "fits Japanese", "fits American"...

    Mike himself doesn't know the size.


    Attachment 72221
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  14. #1534
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Really like the color and how everything turned out. I'm hoping you get video of the dyno.
    Tnx.
    That's my plan but may not be "the" video, just "a" video during the session. I will be tuning myself the very most of the session. Once I get to a final power pull, which will be done by the tuner, I intend to take a video, yes. And the dyno chart, DUUUH!!!!!! lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  15. #1535
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    I think I've asked someone already about that but I also think it's still very unclear in my head.

    I have gen1 tank (33 rod).
    I have a 5/8" vent line from top of tank to inlet of fuel filler cap so that air can be pushed out of the tank and back to atmosphere when filling fuel.

    Question is, how do I know when the tank is full? Will the gun click and stop automatically like it does with normal cars? Or do I have to watch through the filler tube and once I see gas I stop?

    I do not know approx how much gas I have in the tank now. The sender is useless and I don't know my fuel consumption, so my guess is anywhere between 1/4 and 2/3. If I go at fuel station and fill her up, how do I know when to stop?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  16. #1536
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    When it starts pouring out the top. Sorry man, couldn't help it, the devil made me do it. Lol

  17. #1537
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    Then what is the 818 missing to behave like a normal car here?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  18. #1538
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    Warning for everyone.
    Fuel leak alert.
    Test your tank 4 times, once or twice is not enough.

    I added fuel yesterday I think I'm about at half now. When I tilt the rear right of the car, I get an important leak on the far left of the tank and it drips from the 1st cut underneath the frame between the integrated flat panel and the tube. See pic. My EZCool gets yellow as you can see.

    2017-08-13 07.25.57.jpg


    I sprayed air and it sprayed off fuel like if it came off of an injector. I guess I did good atomisation but this is outside the engine. lolll

    I believe it's the fuel sender, again and again.

    My worry? I have wires running there, I don't know what can happen if fuel drips on those wires and connections when the car will be tilted to roll on the towing, while engine running. That freaks me out. Is there a danger?


    I want to fix it before tomorrow but I won't have time, I am at my parents' and to have access to the tank when I come back I need to remove the seatbelts' reels which means I need to remove the side sails in order to access a washer I squeezed between the FW and reels' brackets. Without that washer the FW was distorting when torquing the reels, changing the angle at the bottom of the upper FW panel and seats couldn't recline back. If I remove the FW without grabbing the washers, they will fall between crevices and I may not find them again. What a STUPID design I did there, I should have glued the damn washers in place!

    The leak is not what worries most, cuz I have time before inspection to track it and fix it, it's the fact I can't access it before rolling onto the towing tomorrow at 7h30am.
    Or I remove the sails and don't reattach them for dyno session. I believe I need to have the splash guards off too otherwise the front of those would rub on the trailing links. Humm, maybe I don't have enough time to remove all that properly anyway... or I just let the washers fall off somewhere and I pray I can get back later or they fall in a place they won't make noise or cause other issues...

    Many guys here got caught with leaking tank after the car was complete.


    All that to say TEST LEAK YOUR TANK MORE THAN ONCE!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  19. #1539
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    Frank, fuel does not conduct electricity.
    Requires right mix between fuel vapors and heat to ignite.
    Unless it's really hot around the filler inlet at the tank nothing should burn.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  20. #1540
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Frank, a fuel leak is not something to ignore or put off. I wouldn't even leave the car in the garage unless you're working on it.

    Remember 1gal of gas =10 sticks of dynamite.
    Last edited by flynntuna; 08-13-2017 at 01:16 PM.

  21. #1541
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    Totally agree. The leak is only when I have that much fuel in and car is tilted, not levelled. As it is now it doesn't leak.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  22. #1542
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    Fuel level sender all right.

    2017-08-13 18.20.31_1.jpg

    I removed the FW without the sails, got lucky.
    I saw fuel leaking from the sender, but only when tilting the car, which means the fuel level is just a bit under the sender (at least I know exactly how much fuel there is! loll). Got lucky too.

    It's leaking from the circle inside the ring. I never thought of that. It was leaking all over the place, front of tank, side and rear. Will evaporate with time.

    I put some fuel sealant, a lot of it this time, hopefully it'll work. I'll put more later on just in case. And I will revisit the pump's ring cuz it's certainly the same problem, it's the same stupid design!

    This tank is dangerous. It has at least 6 major design flaws, one of which is a 2" drain hole at the bottom left. lolll


    My advice: exaggerate!!! Put sealant everywhere, tighten as much as possible and test, test, test, test the tank many times.


    I am going to the dyno tomorrow. It's probably the only available slot in 2017 and I need a tune before hitting the road. Plus I need to know if the CVs and boots will last, the dyno is the safest place I can test that (no the track isn't, I don't have a tune to go fast enough and accelerate hard enough). If they don't, I have the winter to find a solution. No way I'm gonna find that next Spring when season kicks off!
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-13-2017 at 06:39 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  23. #1543
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    @MemeNerf, for some reason the forum does not allow me to respond to your PM, only delete it.

    Tnx for the kind words, I think it does truly look very awesome, I am myself impressed.
    How much it cost me will never be the same for someone else.

    - As a pioneer on this build, next ones "the same" would all cost less
    - I didn't pay for my engine, came from my car
    - I got the G50 for much less than its value
    - I had to do A LOT of R&D, which means buying many many parts for nothing. Anyone following my path could cut a lot on this
    - I am in Canada, therefore prices are higher and shipping is ridiculously high. Someone from US could cut a lot of money if doing a similar build to mine

    30k, 50k, 70k, 90k, it means nothing because of the above.

    However if you can answer the above points for yourself, I could provide you with a good ballpark.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  24. #1544
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    Dyno #1

    A LOT has happened on the dyno today!
    With a dyno, you learn everything about your car, no secrets can be hidden.


    GOOD NEWS
    The tuner, over 15years on his dyno, fixed many issues which makes the car a lot smoother!
    - It now cranks and starts up as fast as yours and as fast as an OEM VR6 when it came out of the dealer. I know what to look for if I play with this now
    - Fixed the idle woes after starting which made the rpms wave a little for 2sec
    - Fixed idle issues where the idle was dropping too low and coming back up too high before stabilizing (after an over-run)
    - Fixed neutral rpm blips that were too slow to react and popping, now it's fast and smooth
    It took 3h to do all that, including looking at all my other settings and checking things.
    - AWIC big HE works AWESOME even with my 3gal tank! On the pic you can see a 8C drop but it went up to 11C and most of the time a constant 10C. That's is very interesting. The 14" rad fan was ON all the time and hood closed.

    Proof Sexy Virgie was there, without her splitter, engine cover and diffuser (you can see the straps' attach points and how tall the guy was):

    2017-08-14 08.34.42_1.jpg2017-08-14 09.23.59_1.jpg2017-08-14 09.29.42_1.jpg2017-08-14 10.07.33_1.jpg2017-08-14 10.08.08_1.jpg2017-08-14 10.08.20_1.jpg


    We don't see these often. And this one is supercharged by BASCH.

    2017-08-14 11.29.03_1.jpg



    BAD NEWS
    - Always too lean when turbo kicks in. Guy asked me "do you have fuel pressure?" I said I don't know I don't have a gauge. He said **** get one!!! It's super important and damn he's right!!! I could have fixed the issue myself years ago with such a gauge!! We disconnected the fuel outlet, spilled fuel all over the tank and around the crevices, connected a gauge and fired her up!!

    15psi!!!!! Mabe I'm not clear. Fifteen PSI! Instead of 45! ALL THE TIME NO MATTER THE MAP, TPS AND RPM!!! What a crap pump!!! Chinese Walbro 255 knock off! Do NOT buy these! They are 40-50 bucks but save the money to buy a real one!

    So I bought this at a discount, tell me I did good, [email protected], turbine style (less failures and no noise):

    2017-08-14 16.27.25_1.jpg


    It's not cool to change the pump in that crappy FFR gen1 tank, but it's not too complicated and feasible relatively quickly.


    - Engine dead
    Yes, the engine is dead. It's the end of the season for me, no road driving until at least next Spring.
    When I arrived at the dyno I told the guy Cyl5 was a little wet and we'll see what happens.
    After 3h, when he wanted to start a run, we hit the lean fuel issue and also some blue smoke not smelling gas coming out of exhaust. 3 incomplete runs we did until checking the pump and stopping there.
    Later on I removed the plug. Check it out!

    2017-08-14 12.01.54_1.jpg

    That is wet! Doesn't smell fuel at all, this is oil, my rings are probably shut. I can still start the engine quickly and idle fine. If I blip throttle, a little smoke comes out, now. But I can still get the car plated with this. Next time I start the engine, it's for inspection. Then I'll try to see if I can have a 45mins drive in 2017 and then it's over.

    I guess I have to remove everything and while I'm there, change pistons (ceramic coated, teflon skirts, forged, etc.), rods (4340 H-beam, etc.), make the head higher flow, supporting up to 7500rpm (!!), etc. With this I could get 800hp, but would like to stick at 450whp and why not 500whp if I control linear boost increase to prevent the huge torque kick in.
    I had over a year to do that when the engine was out of any car, but it was running fine then, although cyl5 was always more black than the others. We killed it at the track and on the dyno.

    105k km and maybe 30k of turboing with extreme exhaust restrictions, that didn't help the rings.


    Like I said a while back, this project never ends... I'm not the only with who needed to remove the engine or gearbox right after everything was completed! It's just that after 3300h I thought God would let me cool off a little. 2018 will be my year, then.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-14-2017 at 05:16 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  25. #1545
    Did you have a wide band o2 while you were testing the car before dyno. It would have spotted the low fuel pressure for sure. lesson learned. If you do not have one, get one before tuning
    the revised engine. Info on all running parameters is vital.
    Car looks super. very nice job.

  26. #1546
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    Yup I do have a wideband right up in my dash connected to ECU as well. It was spotting the lean mixture but we couldn't tell if it was a fuel map issue or fuel pressure issue, due to lack of pressure gauge. We caught it right on time before engine could blow up. At least that's good news in that bad news, other guys here weren't that lucky, unfortunately.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  27. #1547
    Hey Frank,
    I don't know if this applies to VW as well, but when I had my dyno session, and we were looking for the misfire, we changed the plugs out.
    He said just use the normal plugs, not the iridium ones. The iridium apparently last longer, but the normal plugs have a better spark.
    I'd rather change out plugs if its a better spark.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  28. #1548
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    Yeah I did change the plugs just before the dyno. They are not iridium.

    I believe the cyl got very hot, my mech suggested me to try the new pump first and get good pressure and fuel under load. It would cool the piston and cyl and may fix the issue. Agreed the engine is tired but if it fixes the issue I could drive with say 7-8psi and wait a year before opening the engine. I'll know soon enough.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  29. #1549
    Dude.... that sucks, but what's a good hobby if it ends?

    I always thought a fuel gauge and a pyrometer were more important than an a/f gauge since exhaust leaks can give you faulty data. Also, I don't trust gas station octane numbers. The only way to know if you're close to knocking is with a pyrometer. You might as well get one while you're at it. It seems like your cyl 5 is the hottest one, which is probably why it failed first. I'd put the pyrometer on the cyl 5. Get one with max temp memory. You should run less than 900C. I had a greddy peak + alarm gauge. Worked great since you get an audible alarm when you're over a set number.

    Good luck, and seriously, enjoy the rebuild. There's a reason you didn't buy an audi R8.

    Speedy G

  30. #1550
    Oh, and dude, you hit it out of the park in terms of looks. The car turned out crazy hot. I can't wait to see it cream Teslas for breakfast.

    Speedy G

  31. #1551
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    Tnx Speedy!



    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy G View Post
    but what's a good hobby if it ends?
    Good point, although the hobby here is not to inject tons of money, work on it 30h/week and never drive it. I would have liked to have at least a summer before something major would go wrong.

    Pyrometer is a good option too, I'll keep it on my list.


    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy G View Post
    There's a reason you didn't buy an audi R8.
    Yes, Audi didn't want to build it the way I wanted, so I ditched them. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  32. #1552
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    God damn I'll be damned.

    The new AEM 320lph pump is awesome! I needed to remove 30% off of my fuel map!! The Chinese GSS340/341 255 Walbro imitation was so ROTTEN and pushing so little fuel it explained why I had to have my injectors opened for 30-40% longer and why anything under boost was too lean.

    Now I have to re-do completely my fuel map, but I have an idea, since my idle fuel seems to be very close to what it was on my Corrado, I'll re-use my last Corrado map + 10% and work it out from there.


    I don't think blue smoke came out of the exhaust. A lot of black smoke though!! At cold start it was running in the low 9AFR!! I'm amazed the engine cranked and started without an issue. There's still some life in it!

    But my next step is to check the plugs, then leak test my cylinders. I have the tools, just that I don't know if I need to do it when engine warm (probably) and how to bring each cyl at TDC. Gotta google on that or call my mech tom.


    I think I fixed my reverse lights intermittently not working. I cut off the offset pin of a 1157 bulb to make it fit in the socket and these bulbs are not only working since Friday but also are brighter.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  33. #1553
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    Oh yeah, HUGE tnx to AZ from Pete! I mean Pete from AZ.

    He was right. Every day now I start to realize all the hard work I somehow managed to pull out on this build. And what I recently realized is that so far none of the stuff that I have built or installed actually failed.

    Nothing broke, fell off or stopped working. All that failed had nothing to do with what I did. Considering the level of complexity of the build, I realized I pulled off some magic, cuz I never never thought I would be able to do it without mistakes that would make something fail. But so far none.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  34. #1554
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Frank I am ridiculously impressed with the progress you have made so far. At times I had feelings that this would never get finished, well I was wrong, despite this last setback the end is certainly in sight.

    Proud of you brother, you've made me eat some humble pie and I'm certainly motivated by your accomplishments.

    Now get this engine sealed up and put some real power down!
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  35. #1555
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    Tnx Long. I appreciate. I think it proves if someone puts down the efforts all can be done. I cannot compare with other builds as this is my 1st but gee it wasn't easy.

    Currently working on sealing it up, I want to do a leak down test but I can't reach the crank's bolt properly to turn the engine (clearance!). I'll try a compression test in the meantime. I'd really like to change all the internals this winter. Even if the engine is still good, I know it's fading away with time so why not upgrading this winter and putting down full reliable power as early as next Spring...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  36. #1556
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    Man tnx a lot Long! After reading your post I decided to give another try on turning the engine. I found a tool (need to buy a better this morning though but I know what!) and was able to reach the bolt and turn the engine. It moves very slowly as I am at the tip of my arm with little clearance, but the wide jaw adjustable wrench is working. Just need to be careful not to strip the bolt. I'm off to the tool shop and this week I'll leak down it.

    Need to find TDC on #5 with engine all closed up, but if I leak down at the spots the piston is at the top (I know how to determine that), one of the 2 will be TDC. I should know by comparing the readings.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  37. #1557
    Pull all the spark plugs. Compression on all cylinders becomes 0 and makes the engine super easy to turn over.

    IF you can pull the valve covers it makes leakdown testing super quick. Turn over until both valves are closed. No perfect TDC needed. Also remember to be in gear so air pressure doesn't spin the motor on you.

  38. #1558
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    Pretty much Bill!
    I watched a couple of vids and yeah removing the cover is the one I'd like the most, but to avoid more leaks when putting the cover back on (if I can't seal it properly like it happened in the past), in the end I think I'll try using the balloon technique to find the compression stroke and then sticking a stick or long screwdriver in the plug hole to reach TDC. If I have problems I'll remove the cover. Removing it definitely is super quick to find TDC anywhere.

    I forgot about removing all plugs to make it easier to turn though, thank god you're here to remind me!

    I was under the impression air pressure would not turn the motor when at TDC, but I'll put it in gear in case. Tnx.

    I'm just waiting for my VW spark plug removal tool (made of steel) to arrive, my OEM plastic one failed and I can't remove any plug, now.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  39. #1559
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    Cylinder leakage test

    I'm impressed.

    I was able to remove wires with my fingers on 1-3-5 cuz I can reach the rubber around the lead, but 2-4-6 aren't removeable until I get my new tool.

    Decided to give a try anyway.

    On my 1st leakage test I got a 18% leak on my assumed worn out rings of cyl5. I did the test again 2 more times (they suggest 3+ readings and averaging cuz there could be up to 10% variations between readings) and the 2 next tests came out at 25-27% leak.

    2017-08-23 07.52.06.jpg

    A new engine is about 10-15% leak and after 105k km on the odo I think 25% is pretty good.
    The leak was coming out of the oil dip stick, which is normal on a cold engine to have leaks on rings and through the crankcase.

    I tried on cyl3 but I got 85% leak, must have missed compression stroke or TDC, I didn't use the balloon technique on this one cuz cyl3 is suppose to fire after cyl5. Anyway I'll redo from scratch on this one.


    This is how I found Compression Stroke on cyl5. Hey, who said I didn't have creativity to find solutions?


    2017-08-23 07.22.40.jpg


    I like how US General's 94190 leak down kit works. Uses only 15-20psi instead of 100, which is easier on a small compressor like mine, it can keep its pressure a long time.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-23-2017 at 07:37 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017

    Bulid time, including registration 3283.5h in 148 work week time and 3.5 years elapsed

  40. #1560
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    LOL Safety first right?

    at least you used ribbed for your engine's pleasure.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

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