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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #2201
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Various Leaks Update

    As for the head gasket coolant leak, I cleaned everything, applied with more quality the gasket sealant, used a NEW head gasket and torqued head, all that within 40mins, which is great enough within time for everything NOT to leak. On 2nd run of the season at beginning of April, it started to leak. At the exact same locations than last year and the year before! How possible?


    2021-04-11 08.37.21.jpg2021-04-12 12.08.04.jpg



    The sealant you see on the pix was added after the leak and I am still adding some after EVERY ride or 2. LOTS of maintenance for very little joy.


    We suspect either a warped head (how on Earth could that happen since it was not leaking before July 2019 when I bent a valve and I never ever pushed it) or micro-cracks in the head. That means yes I have to remove it for the 5th time in 3 years. I don't plan on removing it this season, I am exhausted of all those fixes that are always the same, so it'll wait for the winter, except if I get exhausted of 4-5h maintenance every 30-60mins of running time.
    To remove that maintenance time, I plan on using a rag after every ride and mop up the head/gasket/block. One leak is behind the alternator and its bracket, this one is untouchable, it requires a lot of parts removal to uninstall and gain access. I think I will let the coolant leak drop along the block, pan and on the underbelly alu cover for the season, if I can take it. I have no mental strength to fix this before the winter but maybe I'll get too frustrated of cleaning and seeing it drop on the alu cover.



    On the aspect of oil filter housing leak, this one started at the very end of last season. I didn't have time to fix last winter cuz the fittings installation is very problematic to remove, so I called it a day. And now I pay for that poor installation design. I have to drive the car with a rag wrapped around the sensors and turbo oil feed line fitting on top of my filter housing.


    2021-05-04 07.48.41.jpg



    After 30mins ride, the rag is about 30-40% covered with oil. The good thing so far is that it absorbs all of it. Crossing fingers this absorption will last for the season. I will need many rags and replace them after 2 to 4 rides or so.

    2021-05-09 09.48.20.jpg


    My mech thinks it leaks only during warmup when parts have not expanded yet. No way to tell and simply thinking won't fix it so I'll live the year with it. But this one requires no part removal so it's not as bad as the head gasket.


    If the above 2 can stop getting any bigger, I can expect to have short rides this year, with minimal fun, yet again. But still ride and try to push it above 4500, which I have reached only twice in 4 years.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  2. #2202
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Everything Else got Fixed, though!

    - Rear wheel vibration on tight right turns. It was indeed my driveshaft which is just too long and rubbing on the inner CV cup. I spun the 2 lower lateral links 1 turn pushing the wheel outside, following precise marks in order not to mess up the alignment, re-cambered to -1.5 and voilà, any corner I take at any speed is as smooth as a magnetic train and I am not kidding this car is a FREAKIN' BLAST to drive in curves! It loves those million times more than boring straights.

    - Exhaust vibration! The famous son of a B...!
    It was indeed the dump pipe flex below as I had expected. Literally 2secs before cutting the pipe and using a complex setup to test that possibility, I found out that by orienting the flange differently (further away so I have to stretch the "accordion" which helps reducing the inner tube from hitting the inner walls. By hand at least.


    Bellow.jpg


    Don't mind the welds, they have been re-welded in 2017.

    So I decided to bolt it in place with a slight tilt on the downpipe and test it before I proceed with a no rollback solution that could cause other issues. And it worked! 95%, though. There is still 1-2 situations where I can still hear the vibration but it's really faint and I think even my mechanic would not know. I know cuz I know the exact frequency and how it sounds, but anyone hearing the car would probably not, thinking it's part of the "mechanical noises" the engine makes. So I will keep it like this for this year. A total difference to drive the car without that noise!


    Too bad my head gasket leak.


    - Gearbox leak.
    Fixed, there was too much oil in it.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  4. #2203
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    First Cop Encounter

    I know cops can be hesitant in Quebec sometimes when they see something that doesn't exist. The 818 is not a replica so in cops' minds it's unknown. I always was afraid one day I'd get pulled over for some reason just to ensure I am legal. It took over 1600km but it finally happened, but not the pull over thing. loll I was followed on my rear left and later directly on my left by a cop for about 5mins, some of it standing still on a long traffic light. I'm sure he punched in my plate to check. Fortunately he didn't do anything.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  6. #2204
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    First and Second Slides

    Finally! I was able to make the car slide (or spin. It was slide in this case). Tires were COLD. On a roundabout. Not sure how fast I was going, it wasn't that fast but tires were cold. All 4 lost traction, 4 at the same time, only 2 fronts, only 2 rears, it was very very very controllable. Extremely neutral, something I never experienced with my Corrado. Also the car was not rolling AT ALL, which is why it took me by surprise when I felt the tires sliding. It was very little, but enough to know that some grip was lost. Pretty cool actually.


    Second time was right after the apex in a curve. 3rd gear, 70-80km/h, I decided to push it more. But not flooring in a snap! Gradually pressing the pedal. When I felt more boost coming in I also felt the rear sliding just a little. A very small s/w correction was required. If you're turbo, never floor in a curve, bad bad bad bad loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  8. #2205
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    A Few Improvements with Good Ideas

    On the front wheel wells I fitted some thin yoga matts in order to manage the small rocks that were piling up and on top of the race splitter. Also in order to reduce the noise of those small rocks chipping the alu panels.

    It worked beautifully! It’s a 3mm matt.

    2021-03-14 08.11.45.jpg2021-03-14 08.12.03.jpg2021-03-14 08.12.21.jpg2021-03-14 08.12.47.jpg


    I tested a solution to reduce exhaust smell in the cockpit. Following on Harley’s idea of fitting a full plastic glass around the rollbar, I thought maybe half a glass, up to the humps’ height, could still deliver some performance. I cut a cardboard piece, slid it between the humps and rollbar and tested it. It did help. Hard to tell how much and I need more tests. Also a bit less wind and swirls inside the cockpit, so I liked that solution.

    2021-05-10 18.28.01.jpg

    Some had concerns that Harley’s full glass could reflect other cars’ headlights at night, but a half glass like this does not matter much.

    Adam, after a while not pushing the engine it started to smell more. And when I pushing it, it was smelling even more. But after 2-3 passes of higher boost and mid-range RPMs, it cleared! It smells much less now even when cruising. Funny...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  10. #2206
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Free FFR Springs for you!

    SURPRISE! I have a set of NEW (only a few kms on them) 275lbs rear FFR/Koni springs that I am giving away for FREE, shipping included (lower 48s and all across Canada).


    2020-09-07 10.39.57.jpg

    First one to PM me gets them!

    Once there's a winner I'll mention here that they are gone.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  11. #2207
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    I tested a solution to reduce exhaust smell in the cockpit. Following on Harley’s idea of fitting a full plastic glass around the rollbar, I thought maybe half a glass, up to the humps’ height, could still deliver some performance. I cut a cardboard piece, slid it between the humps and rollbar and tested it. It did help. Hard to tell how much and I need more tests. Also a bit less wind and swirls inside the cockpit, so I liked that solution.

    2021-05-10 18.28.01.jpg

    Some had concerns that Harley’s full glass could reflect other cars’ headlights at night, but a half glass like this does not matter much.

    Adam, after a while not pushing the engine it started to smell more. And when I pushing it, it was smelling even more. But after 2-3 passes of higher boost and mid-range RPMs, it cleared! It smells much less now even when cruising. Funny...
    This is exactly what I was going to try, just a half glass bolted to the engine cover. Was sure if it’d be enough or if I’d have to come up a little higher then the humps.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  12. #2208
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    The higher the better most probably of course, but we are trying to find a good compromise. I have yet retested this thing, as I am currently slowly increasing boost at every ride (now reaching 19psi, it whistles like a monster ) and tuning fuel and timing, amongst other things.

    I think a half-moon glass that would start a little higher than the humps, then go higher in the middle and slowly curve downwards to the far edge of the other hump could be pretty good.

    But Adam you have to floor it too. I keep flooring it now (curiously nothing breaks loll) and the smell is really not as bad as it was when I was driving at low rpms. Even when flooring it doesn't smell that much. Maybe if you run quite rich all the time it's different, though. You gotta have proper plugs too. Anyway I hope to retest the cardboard later this Summer.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  14. #2209
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    I have a full shield and still can smell exhaust, seems more in coast-down situations. There's also the glass fibers from new mufflers to be found mostly on the dash as a reminder not to breathe too much... More masks!!
    Also worth checking- do you have the inners sides by shoulders well closed off? I was getting exhaust from there too early on.
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

  15. #2210
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    You're right, in the end no matter what we do unless we have a fully enclosed cockpit it will still smell to some extent.
    Those little areas can leak, yes, the inner shoulders I think are not that bad for me, but I think I do get some coming in from the middle hole of the rear FW at the junction of the console. That's where the handbrake and cables and wires are running over the tank. I only got a piece of carpet to cover that hole. For now.

    That smell thing is probably a lost battle, but small victories can be won here and there to make the loss not as great as it would be. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  16. #2211
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    I have a full tinted Lexan in front of the roll bar, yes the reflection of incoming cars and even the red stop lights of the car in front can be seen in it, after a while you learn where to look and it is not an issue.
    Maybe because of the lower center exhaust is why I can’t smell any fumes in traffic or wide open

    Jet

  17. #2212
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    You have pix of that on your build thread? If yes I'll go take a look.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #2213
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    For the past few weeks now I am watching videos of guys building American V8s. I never thought the market for American aftermarket and OEM parts what that HUMONGOUS!! You can basically configure any V8 block into a bunch of setups! Rollers, rods, cams, pistons, stroker cranks, heads, headers, superchargers, carburetors, EFIs, etc... Incredible. You guys got them all.

    That got me wanting to build an American V8. For which I have no car to fit it into and no space for the car. lolll I do hope I can spend my time learning on American V8s when I retire in 10-15years. I need a barn. loll


    What would be the State that is the most iconic or the most pro-pure American V8 builders?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  19. #2214
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    You need a F9.

  20. #2215
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    7BF014A7-F9A2-4787-AF33-BCF33ED6F12F.jpg

    76B61142-D4F8-45CC-A314-7D0502ED5637.jpg

    Here you go Frank
    Placed in front of roll bar with a 5/16x1/8 foam seal between them.
    The bottom edge is held in place with a U channel

  21. #2216
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    You need a F9.
    Thought of that, I'd prefer to fit it in the rear, though. And that's the GTM, or SLC or some others alike.
    I have to stop watching those V8 builds videos. loll



    Quote Originally Posted by Jetfuel View Post
    7BF014A7-F9A2-4787-AF33-BCF33ED6F12F.jpg

    76B61142-D4F8-45CC-A314-7D0502ED5637.jpg

    Here you go Frank
    Placed in front of roll bar with a 5/16x1/8 foam seal between them.
    The bottom edge is held in place with a U channel
    That vinyl all around looks totally OEM. Gives us a better idea how a full glass would look like... following a perfect implementation like yours of course.
    Have you tried driving without it to see if there are some kinds of smell?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  22. #2217
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    I think the 818 has cured me of the mid-engine fever. Ergonomics suck and everything is more challenging mechanically because of splitting things between front and back and the front of the engine being up against the firewall.
    Last edited by Ajzride; 06-23-2021 at 10:24 PM.

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  24. #2218
    Thinker of thoughts FFRWRX's Avatar
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    Frank,

    I haven't read in detail all that you've tried with respect to your coolant leak, but have you tried a rad seal chemical in it? If not, and before everyone jumps on me for suggesting that, a little story.

    I had a new '94 Mustang that burned coolant after I had it for several months. It lost about a quart of coolant every couple months. It didn't leak and didn't smoke, but I could smell it now and then. I took it back to the dealer several times and they did compression checks, hot and cold cooling system checks, and never found any issue. A friend of mine said that he had heard of that with Fords now and then and it was due to poor machining of the heads. So I asked him if he thought I should get the heads removed and cleaned up. He said "$400 for that work........$4 for a bottle of sealant.....which one to try?". So I put a bottle of sealant in it. Problem solved. I had to add a bottle every other year when I could smell the coolant burning, but I had the car for 12 years and there was no further issues with it. So, long story for a short suggestion.

    Rick

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  26. #2219
    Senior Member Dave 53's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSR-3 View Post
    I have a full shield and still can smell exhaust, seems more in coast-down situations. There's also the glass fibers from new mufflers to be found mostly on the dash as a reminder not to breathe too much... More masks!!
    Also worth checking- do you have the inners sides by shoulders well closed off? I was getting exhaust from there too early on.
    I don't get any exhaust smell. Could it be because I have a catalytic converter?

  27. #2220
    Thinker of thoughts FFRWRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave 53 View Post
    I don't get any exhaust smell. Could it be because I have a catalytic converter?
    Yes. Some people (like myself) put them on to reduce the exhaust smell, even if they don't need it for emissions.

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  29. #2221
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    Frank, I did drive it without the divider, there was little smell but, in traffic with a little tail wind the heat coming out of the hump vents was the defining factor for the divider
    And that's no vinyl my friend...that's Spinneybeck Sassolino leather, it's there to cover the metal frame that holds the hard top....lol

    Jet

  30. #2222
    Senior Member Dave 53's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRWRX View Post
    Yes. Some people (like myself) put them on to reduce the exhaust smell, even if they don't need it for emissions.
    Driving my car makes me sleepy. It's not the burger I ate for lunch or the hot California sun beating down on me or the drone of the motor on the highway. Now I think it's the exhaust fumes I can't smell.

  31. #2223
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave 53 View Post
    Driving my car makes me sleepy. It's not the burger I ate for lunch or the hot California sun beating down on me or the drone of the motor on the highway. Now I think it's the exhaust fumes I can't smell.
    I was going to blame your special tune, or driving like and old lady, but maybe it's the burger...
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

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  33. #2224
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRWRX View Post
    Frank,
    I haven't read in detail all that you've tried with respect to your coolant leak, but have you tried a rad seal chemical in it? If not, and before everyone jumps on me for suggesting that, a little story.
    No I haven't tried that at all. Not sure how well it would work on a leak that travels all around one complete side of the engine. But if it seals between the block and gasket and gasket and head, then it could theoretically work. The pressure is certainly higher in that area. I did some research and apparently this can be used for head gasket leaks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...c54adf05ff06ca
    BUT apparently it requires pure water to work, not coolant. I guess I can let it seal and then flush water and put back coolant without sealant.

    On the other hand if my head is really warped I wouldn't want to use a sealant, I would prefer to fix the head for good. If the head and the block are both straight, that's another story. I'm keeping that liquid glass sealant on my list.




    Quote Originally Posted by Jetfuel View Post
    And that's no vinyl my friend...that's Spinneybeck Sassolino leather, it's there to cover the metal frame that holds the hard top....lol
    Oh pardon me! lolll We are not joking at all with that leather.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  34. #2225
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Some measurements in inches (I got asked for a few times already) for people trying to fit something different than Subie H4/H6:


    Longitudinal VR6 turbo total width at the top 27
    VR6 height with oil pan 29 (or about 2" taller than the top of FW)
    VR6 length crank bolt to block edge 19.5
    Adapter plate 0.665
    Lateral links supports width 25
    VR6 transverse engine+6sp 02A width 35
    Bell housing to inner CV 7-8
    Distance between top of FW (big frame tubing) to lateral crossbar (bolted at each top of the suspension) 22

    Overall gearbox+engine with clearance and space for shifting 50.5 (or 48.5?)

    Ideally you want your total length crank bolt or accessories to inner CV to be 23-24 (I am too long by 4, but it still works without problems, although this is considered "extreme configuration" and you should do all you can to avoid this).
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-16-2021 at 08:16 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  35. #2226
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I am excited I do have major updates and it looks very very promising for next Spring.

    I was finally able to make the wheels spin. While driving with my friend Porsche mech I was getting out of an industrial front yard, left turn. We were troubleshooting my so called exhaust rattle. I wanted to launch faster so while I was turning and launching I gave it a LITTLE more gas than usual to launch at higher rpm. The car immediately took a 100-110deg or so slide, the tires never squealed (maybe tnx to those great compounds). My friend made a big smile while I was totally caught by surprise. This car grips as hell but once you reach its limits it takes off. The slide was SUPER easy to control smoothly, that is another great success of the 818 and the VR6 is a superb platform to fit it in the 818, at least for street driving. I can elaborate on that in another post if you want to discuss it.


    HEAD GASKET COOLANT LEAK

    Well, there was no such thing!! I never had a coolant leak. After taking the head out again (5th time since June 2019), we analyzed the head and block. Everything is straight, the pistons are in excellent condition, the cylinder walls are in excellent condition, the cams, lifters, cam gears, cam bearings and valves are also in excellent condition with nothing abnormal anywhere. There is also absolutely no sign of any kind of leak on the head gasket (but not the block). Hell, I've got a perfectly healthy engine!

    What was leaking was the stupid Permatex 99MA spray on gasket sealer.

    2021-09-11 20.51.18.jpg

    It is red and mimics perfectly coolant, especially when heated up and going into liquid state. I've got thick deep blood red leaks and coolant-like pink color leaks. After analyzing, both are from that damn sealant, it's easy to prove (I can explain why/how if asked). Also the leaks stopped later during the summer, it does leak a tiny bit again but the block heat dries it before it drips down.
    Why was it leaking for me but never for my mech? Probably I don't apply it properly or don't shake the can enough... anywho I called it crap and bought Permatex 101MA spray-a-copper-gasket and this one is a LOT easier to apply. Will know next Spring!

    2021-09-11 20.51.27.jpg



    EXHAUST RATTLE

    Well, there was no such thing!! It's internal to the engine and the very most probable cause are my timing chains. When this happened in 2019:



    I checked the chain, measured, etc... all seemed fine. But that's not how you make sure the chain is fine!! Dumb, back then I was, as Yoda would say. Only way is to take it out and compare with a new one and even that, sometimes there could be a slight issue with it and you would not see. Never play with that, always replace it, as he told me back then https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post373153

    Now everything is removed from the engine (except internals) and I am changing the chains. While I'm there I'll look at the intermediate shaft bearings, just in case. I also found some rubbing from the clutch fork onto the pressure plate so I'll take care of that as well.

    Will know next Spring if it was the chain or not... honestly there is nothing else we could try as we played with every other part in the engine bay (except clutch area and intermediate shaft...). I even replaced all my v-band clamps.


    LOW IDLE OIL PRESSURE

    Well, there was no such thing!! I found a video of a guy fitting a 950hp VR6 12v in his old Audi S4 and he's showing his cluster while revving up to 5krpm. Anywhere past 2k my readings are the same as his, give or take a few psi.
    My theory, which I can explain longer if one wants, is that since both sensors are tapping on the turbo oil feed line this causes incorrect readings at low rpms. I have fixed now and they tap from my OEM low and high pressure switches, so the oil has nowhere to go other than to sensors.
    Other possibility is the oil pressure one-way valve my mech fitted on the block. There is a bead that closes at engine shut off so the oil doesn't drain from the head. It's critical on the VR6 12v to keep the lifters well oiled all the time and prevent dry starts. Maybe that valve slightly closes under 2krpm due to the lower pressure going up and it causes the pressure to drop even more....
    Either way, will know next Spring!

    BTW, hard to beat the sound of the legendary VR6 12v. Take a listen from 15m50s to 16m20s:



    This is the S4's friend, he fitted his 900-1000hp 50psi VR in an Audi B5 platform...



    While I'm there I will take care of tires rubbing on the outside and inside of the rear splash guards. Happens only on full droop but the inside portion rubs on the cut edge of the alu sheet close to the springs and I don't like that, could cut something on the tire in the long run.


    There are 3 ways to learn:
    1- You go to school (with or without a mask)
    2- You watch Tubes
    3- You make improper decisions and get hit by them

    3rd one got my experience level bump up quite a lot in the past 2 years!

    There never were issues with my engine. There always were issues with me!

    ...

    I so wish we would be in Spring already.
    Are we there yet? Are we there yet? Are we there yet? Are we there yet?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  37. #2227
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Unbelievable

    No way!

    Just came back from a long way. After 2 months of hard labor work stripping down to the bare short block with no moving external parts I somehow managed to put everything back in and go out for a drive on Oct 29th before the snow! Thanks to Trump's "non-existent" climate changes, I am still driving as I write this.

    I have fixed all my issues, except the metallic rattle. I knew that when I saw the timing chains weren't stretched. So over 500h and 2.5years looking for the cause of that and back to square 1.

    This is my new oil filter housing solution, which fixed my damn oil leak. I went crazy and put sealant on the top of the threads!!

    2021-10-02 09.07.35.jpg


    However the car drives differently now. It drives better, although my fueling got messed up, which means there really was something off on the chain timing. I also somehow pulled some kind of magic trick so that all LGWs (Leaks Gone Wild) are gone. YES, I HAVE NO DAMN LEAKS! That is a first since 2011 back in the Corrado. Crossing fingers I don't have slow oil leaks but so far everything is bone dry after 4 heat cycles. What a weird feeling for me.

    This means now I can finally for the 1st time drive the car ANYTIME I want, ANYWHERE I want and ANY NB OF TIMES per day I want without having to replace the band-aid around the oil feed line every 3 engine starts in order to prevent it from dripping oil all over and without the need to check for head gasket leaks after every engine start. No more firewall removal to patch the head gasket with sealant after every 5-6 engine starts.

    Speaking of head gasket, Permatex spray-a-copper gasket Spec #101MA is AWESOME! You have all your time to install the gasket and torque the head down, as long as it's tacky, which is at least 24h after your last coat is applied. I will always use this product in the future, now I love reinstalling the head (although I do NOT want to do it again lolll).


    2021-10-05 06.49.01.jpg


    You have no idea how big of a weight just dropped off of my shoulders. I can now focus on that one last issue that even a 45-years expert mechanic has no damn clue about.
    ...
    Or I could just live with it. Now that the car can be driven, I realized this car is not meant for steady 2000-2500rpm runs (duuuuuuhhhh loll), it's meant to be driven HARD. That's the whole point! And when I do it, I can get rid of 95% of the rattle. So from now on, I should always launch with aggressive manners and rev the engine up, shift gears as if it was dog engagement, step on it, lift throttle and listen to those LOUD bangs and pops which are much more present since the chain timing fix.

    Yeah the sound is slightly different now that I have perfectly timed the engine. It's smoother, more linear and better, more growl to it. Steady 3000+ sounds MEAN! @Brian, you gotta come back for a drive!
    I also noticed more torque, but that could be cuz it was -1C (30F) outside and frankly if you are well dressed and using gloves, once the engine warms up it's quite comfortable! Just cold on the fingers after a while. I'm impressed, who knew a full roadster without HVAC could still be comfortable at such low temps. I think with winter gloves I could drive as low as -10C (14F), but that's bad on tire compound anyway.

    I had fun driving the car that Friday morning at 6h15am in the dark. 1st time I have that much fun with no weight on my shoulders and no fear of anything going wrong.

    During those 2 months I managed to improve a few other things. Including at least 2 totally unexpected.
    - I increased oil pressure all across the band by 5 to 30%!! While not using heavy-duty oil stabilizer that I used to use to thicken the oil. I have no idea how I pulled that one off as I didn't do anything to the oiling system.
    - Then my warm start ups are much better, whereas before they were unstable. I didn't change my ECU tuning on that so it must have something to do with the timing chain properly timed.

    And visually speaking, I did this, OH YEAH:

    2021-10-10 06.51.16.jpg2021-10-11 10.57.57.jpg2021-10-11 14.41.27.jpg2021-10-27 06.57.23.jpg2021-10-27 06.57.55.jpg



    This winter I will improve a few more things, like preventing the tires from rubbing on the inner wheel wells:

    2021-09-12 14.36.51.jpg2021-09-12 14.36.58.jpg



    BTW if you need a trick to unbolt bolts that make parts turnover, just do this:

    2021-09-12 10.39.29.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  38. #2228
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    Awesome report Frank!!

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  40. #2229
    Senior Member fletch's Avatar
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    I would love to stop in for another ride, Frank. Wish you were in my neighborhood, or vice versa. Congrats on all this hard-won success.

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  42. #2230
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Well I have nothing bad to report!

    Car is driving strong and is reliable, providing I properly clamp my vacuum hoses. loll

    I also have a very solid theory regarding the metallic rattle, which my friend on his 911 also has (rattle)! How funny! The theory so far has proven to beat anyone's argument against it. It is not fully fixable unless I redesign engine internals (it has nothing to do with the exhaust). However there is a workaround, at a cost (torque under vacuum), but it's ok! So the rattle is now no more than 20% what it used to be and no one but me can hear it in rare occasions. Even Brian wouldn't hear it! So yes, now I can cruise at 3k rpm downtown with a great sounding engine!

    I have plans for car upgrades, now that I can have fun driving it I can see where I can go with this car (in terms of upgrades)!

    I get asked about the car on average once every time I drive it. Unbelievable. Sometimes people talk to me at 50km/h (they roll down their window, I don't need to do that lol).


    So that's it! That's my build, the blue VR6 Turbo build.

    Unless I get some important information in the future that may interest people on the forum (like an FFR part unusually wearing out fast or something like that) I don't plan on adding more details on my build, it's complete.
    It will of course be my pleasure to reply to anyone's questions, feel free to ask or PM me if I don't reply within a week! I only get email notifications for the 1st post after mine.

    I would like to THANK A MILLION TIMES each and every one of you who helped and supported me. Many of you supported me through the severe down moments I had during the build and your strong words really helped me keep it up and I got out of the water and now it drives! From time to time while I work on the car or drive it, I remember those times where you guys supported me. Every little detail you helped about made a huge difference in the end. I have a lot of respect for you guys!
    Thanks, thanks and thanks!!
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-04-2022 at 01:27 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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  44. #2231
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Congratulations Frank! What an amazing feeling to be able to say it’s done after such a long and sometimes painful journey. The forum doesn’t have the same life to it as it did when we started our builds so many years ago, but for many of us it holds a special place. So many great people like yourself offering advice, feedback, or simply support made it feel like we were never alone in our garage.

    Enjoy it my friend!
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

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