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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #1641
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Thank you guys, your words are very important to me.

    I'm working now on bringing the car back to "normal", I have swapped my front 450lbs springs for 400s. The 450s where necessary to lift the front at 5.75" in order to lift my front side markers at 15" and pass inspection.

    Hmm, I believe the 400s will be still too stiff (the 450s are too stiff for street here, the front end was bouncing), I might swap them to the back and get the rear 350s back to the front where they belong, we'll see. But now the car is 1" lower it looks better in the front wheel well. Will play with corner weights now.

    I also swapped my front TS which are SAE-DOT approved (original ones) to a much cleaner and up to date look with LED upgrades. They are E9 marked and approved all across Europe, but I never was able to find if these European rules comply with North America, so I couldn't use them for inspection. In the end they are very bright and wise is the guy who can say which one between the SAE and E9 is brighter, if any!

    2017-10-15 14.01.02_1.jpg2017-10-15 14.02.39_1.jpg2017-10-15 14.02.48_1.jpg


    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  2. #1642
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Someone asked me today "Hey Frank, did you get your plate?"


    My answer was:


    2017-10-17 16.44.54_1.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  3. #1643
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Oh yeah! congrats man. I hope you get to do some nice cruises before the weather turns sour.

    Cheers brother, you've earned it.

    Oktoberfest-2012-pictures-94.jpg
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  4. #1644
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    A very proud moment, congrats!

  5. #1645
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    Oh yeah! congrats man. I hope you get to do some nice cruises before the weather turns sour.

    Cheers brother, you've earned it.

    Oktoberfest-2012-pictures-94.jpg
    Long, can you give me that girl's phone number plz? No it's NOT 555-1212! I'd like her to be here next time I celebrate victory (once I get my insurance).
    I believe this w-e will be the last time, the weather's supposed to suck later on. I've pushed as much as I could, now it's up to the evaluation report to be completed on time.


    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    A very proud moment, congrats!
    And tnx to you on the sliders, it worked out perfect and made me pass without issues!



    Like I said, everyone on this forum helped me somehow, even people like Dwayne (I believe he never posted), who gave me the email of the DMV's engineer. Imagine without that how deep I'd be in right now. I hope he will read this.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  6. #1646
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Nice Frank, your build makes mine sound so damn easy!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  7. #1647
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Got my insurance 5mins before the close on Friday. A few weeks ago a guy posted that it might be my luck changing. That was just before inspection. Everything went flawless since, he was right! And guess what, this w-e is very beautiful here, probably the last (and first!) time of the year I can drive the car. 5mins... 5 more mins and I would have to wait 2018. This is why every min of a 3.5years project is important.


    I tried to adjust corner weights. Good god! How on earth can you get 50% with such screwed up numbers?

    2017-10-21 09.18.14_1.jpg

    You will tell me "raise the LF and lower the RF". No, I can't. LF is 0.25in from the TOP of the sleeve, cannot raise more. Also it's close to no travel on droop. RF is at the lowest already, any lower and the spring will get loose on droop. 200 pounds!!! What the hell do I have up front on the left side that would add up 200lbs? I was NOT in the car.

    2017-10-21 15.10.15_1.jpg

    Seriously, I have no idea. I haven't seen anyone with this issue and up front I've got nothing related to VW or Porsche. Besides my electronic computers are all on the right side under the dash.

    How bad is it to drive on the streets with 40% cross?

    Now as you can see in the rear it's RR that is 175 pounds heavier. Therefore if I raise RR, it will put weight on LF and vice-versa. I'm fighting myself all the time.

    The good news is I'm almost 50-50 for L vs R.

    2017-10-21 09.18.32_1.jpg



    This is how thick paperwork I needed to register the car. hahahahahha I can hear Craig laughing!!!

    2017-10-21 10.00.02.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  8. #1648
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    If this is the last chance this year, get out and drive it! Be careful because, (1.) it's a powerful/short wheelbase car that can easily break traction so floor it only when perfectly straight, (2.) it's still untested, (3.) after all this work you don't want to damage it, (4.) the corner weights aren't perfect. If you don't drive like a maniac, I think you won't even feel the corner weigh condition.
    GET OUT THERE!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  9. #1649
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Don't worry Pete, I cannot floor it neither drive it over 3krpm, my pistons' rings are shut. lolll So I won't feel corner weight, but next spring once I fix the rings, I don't know what I'm gonna do with corner weights, what if it gets the car out of balance during spirited driving...

    But you're right, I will need to test it, next spring.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  10. #1650
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    The rear weight bias on these cars is such that adjusting and balancing the rear may fix most of the problem on the front.

    IIRC, registration in Michigan was something like 4 pages. Donor title, MSO, a single page inspection form, and a single page application for vehicle title.

  11. #1651
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    Also, make sure you have a fire extinguisher with you! Better safe than sorry!

  12. #1652
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Interesting, I'll give that a try (adjusting rear bias).

    I do have an extinguisher, although its expiry date is 2011, not sure how important that is. I plan on buying a new one this winter.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  13. #1653
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Today was my 1st street driving day.

    A total catastrophic failure.

    The car is all broken.

    - Engine can't run well. Gets super lean, super rich, at the same RPM and variables. Like idle, when engine gets hot it get very lean, I shutdown, restart right away and it's good, but after a few mins it gets lean again, I keep increasing my fuel values but it didn't made sense. Same time all across RPM, sometimes it got rich and had to back off, sometimes lean and add fuel. The fan kicking in wasn't the issue. Then after engine hot at normal temps every time the RPM was dropping at idle when I pressed the clutch for a stop, the engine was super close to shutdown with RPMs dropping in the 200-300. My ISV was working perfectly when we adjusted it on the dyno and when engine cold, no issues. I highly suspect my piston rings to be the cause. In the end there was no way I could control fuel, it was all over the place everywhere and way too dangerous to drive.

    - Rear right CV was clicking while driving, most of the time, I'm sure my axle is too short. I was afraid the CV would break, too dangerous to drive.

    - When hitting a depression like a manhole the rear left was making a TOK noise, like if the alu splash guard was whipping on the fiberglass or if the bottom of the side sail was hitting the ground (obviously not the case). Can't tell what that was. Fet dangerous to drive and hit bumps.

    - Most of the time when I was hitting a bump or depression I felt weird behaviour on the s/w, front wheels and rear wheels. Like if the tires were WAY too soft, not enough air, and the car was waving, or at least that was the feeling. That's at around 20-30mph. Too dangerous to drive.

    - I scrapped the front left splitter a few times when getting out of the driveway. loll It didn't scratch in a visible place but I guess I was too low.

    - It smelt unburnt fuel, like when at a gas station, while driving. Maybe fuel through the rings and into the crankcase, or a leak on the fuel level sender again. Too dangerous to drive.

    - Brake switch unscrewed itself. Fixed it temporarily.

    - Clutch was clicking fast when pressing on it, again. But only when engine warm.


    All these things but the clutch and CV I did not have on the 2 track sessions I had. Everything now is wrong.

    What is the most disappointing is that I couldn't tell my parents yet what I've been doing of my life in the past 3.5 years. Perfect weather today, last time of 2017, rushed so hard to pass inspection and get my insurance, but car was a total mess.
    I god damn hope my engine issues are piston rings related, otherwise I am out of clues.



    Good news is that there is no problem driving this car at 10C, the warm air from behind comes inside the cabin and warms me up.

    Other good news is that I know how to get 50% cross, or close to. For some weird reason I cannot yet understand, in order to remove weight from a corner I have to LOWER the suspension. I was doing the opposite. I gained 7% in just a few mins playing with the front and I still got space to work with. I'm pretty sure after playing with the back it'll hit the 50% mark.


    I'm dismantling the car to get the engine in pieces for this winter.
    Hopefully better luck next Spring.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #1654
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Oh crap.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  15. #1655
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    Better to find these things now than wait until next April. Now she can be ready for next summer.

  16. #1656
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah, the problem is I can't fix anything until next Spring cuz I can't test my fixes or re-test to better identify the issue. We'll see.

    In the meantime here's the FIRST time ever the car put its tires on the streets. You can hear a scrapping noise but curiously my splitter is not scratched. Neither the splash guards, nor underneath the car (alu panels, side sails, fenders...). Weird, it happened 3 times.

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #1657
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    oh man -- I was so hopeful your luck had changed and you would get some time to try things out.

    As for the corner weights, I also wanted to let you know that our race-maita had way worse numbers than that (after the car hit a wall) and we were able to balance it out and get it running (and even put the fast lap down after the accident no less).

    Hang in there, we are all looking forward to when you can celebrate.
    -Steve

  18. #1658
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    That scraping sound when pulling out of the driveway is very similar to my front tires scraping the front fenders when doing the same maneuver. Also bumps at the bottom of country road hills where the bridges meet the asphalt.

  19. #1659

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    Its more than likely your tire rubbing the inside of the fender. That is exactly the reason why i will be redoing the fenders to include a vertical flat spot like most late model cars for wheel travel.

    Nice work btw, looks killer!

  20. #1660
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I checked both front wheels and couldn't find any evidence of rubbing. Anyway the front is a little too low at the moment so that will help by raising it but I'm still surprised I couldn't find any evidence anywhere (splitter, frame, undercar alu panels, tires, tie-rods, LCAs, splash guards, yoga mat inside the fenders (TNX PETE!!!!!), fender louvers, fender lip). I was rolling maybe 2-3mph.
    It didn't happen on big large bumps I hit at say 5-7mph but the wheels were all straight, I was not turning.

    I'll keep an eye next Spring.


    Tnx Kurk, and those are your side scoops! I managed to fix entirely the damage UPS did on the gel coat, if you remember the pic I sent ya.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  21. #1661
    Moonlight Performance
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    Sorry it didn't go well Frank. I had a LOT of sorting to do on my car before it drove nicely. It took about 9 months to get it to that point, and of course, I'm forever fine tuning it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    - Most of the time when I was hitting a bump or depression I felt weird behaviour on the s/w, front wheels and rear wheels. Like if the tires were WAY too soft, not enough air, and the car was waving, or at least that was the feeling. That's at around 20-30mph. Too dangerous to drive.
    I had this same exact thing. It was due to alignment. Mostly bump steer front and rear. You really need to buy a bump steer gauge and check it. If you decide to do it, let me know and I'll give you my procedure (I've now done it so many times, I have quite a nice process down).

    This is the one I have: http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...h+Billet+Plate

  22. #1662
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Absolutely. What's sad is I didn't have the opportunity to fix anything in 2017, cuz of my blown rings. If I could have driven for real and test a few fixes, it would have been better for the long winter repairs/fixes. Oh well, I couldn't have everything I think the way it went with the whole inspection process I can't complain cuz all went SUPER well when came the time to get stuff approved. Let's put that behind me now.

    I suspect rear bumpsteer, but god it didn't need a lot of compression to bump steer! That means having the lower lateral links parallel to the ground and each other may not be the target here. I think that's what happened to Harley.

    I have a bad toe up front, I messed up the right front alignment, but I'm sure the rear needs something. My friend bought a huge machine, you know those that lift the car on 4 plates and is all digital with lasers? I'll try it out but I don't think it does bumpsteer. I'll start with good alignment and then see the behaviour.

    Happy to know it's probably 99% alignment related. I prefer that than a bad solution, component or design.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  23. #1663
    Moonlight Performance
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    I doubt your friend's rack has bump steer. Usually only racers check that and you need a separate tool.

    My rear lateral links are were parallel but that still give me bump-out which is bad. Only way to really set it is with a bump gauge. And yes, it doesn't take much compression at all to really feel it. One of the things that freaked me out before fixing it was that every time I was on the gas and then lifted, I could feel the back end kick out JUST slightly. Not enough that I needed to counter-steer but enough to be extremely unsettling.

  24. #1664
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Tnx Jeff, one of the best suspension/alignment guy on this forum. I'll test it out next Spring.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  25. #1665
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Swapped my Altima no color start button for this OEM gloss red GTR button (direct swap, for once!!!). Flew straight from Japan!
    Pretty cool with the red!

    2017-10-27 08.34.03_1.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  26. #1666
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    Interior detail is impressive Frank, well done.

  27. #1667
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Cool, starting to learn about corner weights.

    Just swapping my 400/350 springs to 350/400 swapped the corner weights around! From well under 50 it flipped to over 50 but closer to 50. By trial and errors I found out what happens to each wheel, each side and each front/back weight when raising just one wheel. Then went off to google, found a site that told exactly the behaviour I'm having. Phew, that means my car is not some weird alien! lolll

    If I had read this page before starting corner weighting, it would have saved me time. So for those who didn't learn much, read this:
    https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...orner-weights/

    Basically,

    • If you raise the ride height at a given corner (put a turn in or add a round of wedge), the weight on that corner will increase, as will the weight on the diagonally opposite corner. The other two corners will lose weight.

    This will NOT affect L/R and F/R weights.

    For a road car, apparently you should be within 1% from 50% (corner weights), otherwise you could feel difference in behaviour on left turns vs right turns. So far I am at 51.5% WITHOUT driver (driver ADDs a few tenths to the corner weight).

    2017-10-29 12.09.54_1.jpg2017-10-29 12.10.16_1.jpg

    Ha, I see I gained 22lbs since my "official" weight for registration. Not sure why, I added maybe 1.5-1.7gal of fuel but that's it.

    Corner weights, so my problem is I am limited by ground clearance up front and rear height. Up front I need a good clearance to avoid any kind of rubbing on bumps (tires, splitter, etc.). In rear, I need as low as possible to avoid too much angle on the axles (if you don't understand it's cuz you are not aware of my build, go back and read on the Porsche gearbox with angled axles) but I also need as high as possible to avoid the wider 265s from rubbing on the splash guards under compression. A real puzzle!

    My goal is not to reach 50 anymore, that will be very difficult, maybe impossible, considering my above constraints. So now I try to reach 50.5%, which means with driver it will stay under 51%. Slashing another 1% will not be easy, I might require sacrifices like rubbing the front on some bumps. I cannot sacrifice the rear yet as I don't know what my axles are capable of.


    I was googling how normal cars have their corner weights set at. All I could find was normal cars after they did their coil over upgrades and corner weighted the car. Worthless. I will try to corner weight my OEM 2005 Impreza as it came off the dealer to see what these guys set their normal cars at.



    Tnx Mitch!!!
    Last edited by Frank818; 10-29-2017 at 08:10 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  28. #1668
    Senior Member alpine227's Avatar
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    You should check your wideband sensor you can check it in free air should read full lean, use a lighter unlit buton depressed on the sensor tip should read full rich. Since you are smelling fuel and showing lean could be a bad O2.

  29. #1669
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpine227 View Post
    use a lighter unlit buton depressed on the sensor tip should read full rich.
    What you're saying is that lighters have very bad fuel efficiency? lolll


    I did the test (smart one, tnx for pointing out). Numbers look perfect (hard to see on 3rd pic but it starts with "08.xxx" which is very very rich. I had to have the lighter in one hand in a bad location and phone on the other):

    2017-10-30 07.16.44.jpg2017-10-30 07.19.02.jpg2017-10-30 07.19.29.jpg

    However, the sensor is VERY slow to react. When I approached the lighter underneath, it took a few seconds (maybe 5) to reach 8AFR and I saw the numbers decreasing. Worst is the other way around, when I turned the lighter off it took maybe close to 8-10sec to reach 99.999 again and I saw the numbers increasing slowly. Not sure that behaviour is normal.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  30. #1670
    Senior Member alpine227's Avatar
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    It takes a few seconds I will pull mine and give it a go. The sensors are pretty fragile to impact.

  31. #1671
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    If it's normal to take a few secs, I hope it doesn't lag that much when it gauges what comes out of the engine. loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  32. #1672
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Like Mike I am going backwards to go fwd better in a distant future:

    2017-11-05 15.48.48_1.jpg

    Took me 12h to get there. 2 of which were just to think how and where to flush coolant from in order to minimize mess... lolll



    You don't see it really on the pic but there's quite some oil inside my runners. And it smells oil pretty bad!!! I mean that oil smells good, but the intake shouldn't smell that much oil!

    2017-11-05 10.41.12_1.jpg

    And there is oil dripping down one of my sprout on the intake manifold. I admit the hole was a little too big I stuffed some sealant, but it's still leaking from the intake manifold. I also found a bit of oil at the bottom of my oil dip stick tube (on the block), plus a little too much from normal oil out of the crankcase ventilation hose. Something tells me I was having some kind of blow by, which makes sense, but I wonder if I have valve leakage as well. Doesn't matter anyway as ALL these parts will get replaced, leaks or no leaks.
    Last edited by Frank818; 11-05-2017 at 08:47 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  33. #1673
    Senior Member alpine227's Avatar
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    Do you have a leakdown tester? If not one can be made out of a compression tester for around $20.

  34. #1674
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah I do, but what do you want me to do with a leakdown tester on the Wideband?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  35. #1675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    If it's normal to take a few secs, I hope it doesn't lag that much when it gauges what comes out of the engine. loll
    Lambda sensors are very quick to respond (<<0.5 sec) if there is exhaust gas flowing by them. The issue you see with this lighter test is that it takes time for the gas to travel through the labyrinth of small holes in the sensor cover. (Which are there to protect the ceramic element from water droplets. Water droplets on the hot ceramic = cracks = failed sensor.)

  36. #1676
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Tnx CdnCarNut, I thought of something like that, it's not like if I was flowing and forcing gas through the sensor. Besides I am running open loop so the sensor does not correct fuel, which cannot explain why I had these issues on Oct 22nd.

    It's then certainly related to the fact I am running 2 cyls with 30% pressure loss and 4 cyls with over 20%... I've read when it's over 30% that you should not drive the car. I understood why on Oct 22nd... lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  37. #1677
    Senior Member alpine227's Avatar
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    I was talking about the leak issues you were having leakdown test would tell you rings or valves.

  38. #1678
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah thought so.
    I have some important issues on the rings, after the leakdown test. I know for sure at least one ring was tired for the past many years. Certainly died on that dyno in August (guy was pretty rude running it 3 times at 17AFR up to 4k with smoke) and some others got affected.
    I wouldn't be surprised to have leaks around valve stuffs as well. I will remove the manifold this w-e if I have enough clearance, I'll see a bit better.

    But I need to get the head off anyway and that will really tell what's next.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  39. #1679
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Well well well... look who invited itself to the blown up engine party!

    2017-11-11 08.44.58_1.jpg2017-11-11 08.45.07_1.jpg2017-11-11 08.45.17_1.jpg

    3 of my 6 exhaust valves are leaking oil and not just a little. I don't think that's the only problem, I'm pretty sure the rings are bad too, but since I want this time to be the last time I remove the engine, I'm gonna change everything, sticking to the original plan.

    I joined the Mike Club, the club for those who remove their nonworking engine shortly after its first installation in the 818. lolll

    My other 3 valves are ok, although I have no idea if the white stuff on the stems is normal. Pretty carbonized inside anyway.

    2017-11-11 08.45.27_1.jpg2017-11-11 08.45.35_1.jpg2017-11-11 08.45.42_1.jpg



    I also think I need to port match my exhaust manifold, check out the carbon on the edges of most of the runners, you'll see better if you zoom on the picture.

    2017-11-11 08.43.26_1.jpg
    This freakin manifold weighs a good 45-50lbs with turbo on.


    And for those who never saw a VR6 or are nostalgic, here are the cams.

    2017-11-11 09.10.29_1.jpg

    No sign of wear at all, that's good news, I run them since 2006!
    This engine is not a SOHC, neither a DOHC. It's in between, tnx to VW's weird but spot on design of fitting a V engine into one bank.



    Now we're talking!!! I have a lot more space in there! But I can't run like this. loll

    2017-11-11 11.24.14_1.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  40. #1680
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Seems you only had to take out half the engine so far

    Didn't know about the Mike club, count me as a member as well as I had to do the same for coolant issues last year just after I got to karting phase. My original plan was to treat the engine like a black box and just have it work since it worked in the donor. No luck as I ended up doing the timing belt, water pump and whatever else was on the "while I was there" list.
    -Steve

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