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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #1361
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Darn Frank, I can't believe the level of scrutiny they make you got through up there to get on the road.

  2. #1362
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Tnx for the support guys.


    The welds certification is more for me but any weld could be suspicious.
    Might as well re-do everything and have one document certifying all the car.

    It's my fault I and my mech did bad welds that could crack with time.


    The wheels spacers would be allowed if bolted or welded onto the rim, but floating in sandwich between the rim and hub, not allowed.

    They also required a hood hinge. I do have that though, thanks to Craig, otherwise I'd be in trouble again.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:09 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  3. #1363
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Aargh, it's tough to click on your build thread to see what new, ridiculous obstacles the nanny government has thrown at you. You are tough, Frank, and I know you'll tough it out eventually. I know we are all pulling for you.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  4. #1364
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Good news!

    BTW tnx Pete!

    Yes I have 2 good news. I'm not out of the woods yet, but those news are helping a lot.


    First one is I got my seat slider solution accepted!

    SeatSliderDesign_1.jpg

    Red lines are 3/16x1" flat bars I will add and green circles are where the Sparco slider bolts onto.
    Do you guys think 5/16" grade 5 bolts are enough for seat mounts? I got M8s OEM on the VW seats, but they probably are grade 8 or 10.
    This solution is re-usable!

    This will get me moving as I will fab the parts, tack weld them in place and in 2 w-es when the welder will re-do some welds he will weld the flats on. Or show me how to weld properly, he said he'd show me how to adjust the machine and how to weld. We'll see.


    2nd good news, DMV gave me the go to complete their "Construction Declaration Document". This step means the DMV has no more questions for me and I can move on to official pre-inspection (that document). In that doc I need to list a bunch of items, like VIN's, serial numbers, manufacturers, provide invoices, etc. I have to provide roughly 15 to 20 different kinds of pictures (over 40 individual pix) to prove what I'm writing. Axles, wheels, tires, interior, exterior, engine, gearbox, steering, braking system, proportioning valve, fuel tank, seats, seat belts and of course all the lighting.

    I will have troubles, I think, with the VINs and Serials of the engine and gearbox. I got the VIN of the engine, but no serial. I've got the serial of the gearbox, but no VIN. Gotta check where I could find those. We'll see, I don't know yet how flexible or not they are for that part. I'm supposed to give a picture of the engine's VIN on the engine. I have none! I don't know if it was on the cam cover's side and got removed when I got it powder coated in 2006 or fell off with time (sticker).
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:12 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  5. #1365
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    You can always buy a set of letter and number punches from your local Canadian Tire and "find" your engine/trans VIN that way.

    Unless Canada is different, they aren't on Subaru engines and transmissions in the states, and if I had to do inspection again i'd give the punches a go just to keep the inspector happy.

  6. #1366
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Good idea Phil! That would most probably work.

    I found my engine serial number on the block. But I don't think there is any VIN on that engine, google showed me nothing but the serial. On the sticker on the cam cover, there was only the serial as well, no VIN. I checked one VR6 that still has the sticker. Engine might be too old and VINs weren't on them back then. I have the 35,118th AAA VR6 produced, that's quite a low number.

    I'll see what they say and if they absolutely need a VIN I'll punch it on the block if I have enough space without removing it. loll However I have proof, on paper and pictures, that that engine has VIN XYZ.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  7. #1367
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    Had no idea the loops some folks have to go through! I'm rooting for you!

  8. #1368
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Right, I think I'm all pre-approved now.

    The DMV also asked piston caliper's sizes! And other details like the MC used, discs' size, etc. And they calculate the stopping power for you! They want to make sure you have enough power and that you balance the power properly, say F70-R30 as a starting point, so they ask about the proportional valve. It turned out my brake kit has just over twice the power of the OEM WRX.


    Welder will come on April 14th.

    One point, you cannot install a different engine after you pass inspection, unless you use the same anchor points. If you don't, you need to pass inspection again. If you don't want to and take the risk, basically any mod you make to the car (cluster, buttons, engine, lighting, seats, etc.) a cop has the right to ask to see your approval documentation and if he has doubts that some of the mods may not respect rules, you go to impound and you gotta work out with DMV to get the car re-approved again. However if your mods still respect the rules, you should be fine.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:14 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  9. #1369
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Frank, I thought the DMV was tough on you up there, but after reading this...

    http://ottawacitizen.com/news/local-...in-west-quebec

    "A driver who used wooden logs and chicken wire to reinforce his vehicle’s suspension was ticketed and had his car impounded by police following a traffic stop in west Quebec."

    avril_inspection-mecc81canique_3.jpg
    Last edited by wleehendrick; 04-12-2017 at 04:38 PM.

  10. #1370
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Ha you see? No windshield wipers and I could get impounded! lolll

    I admit I wouldn't be expecting anything better than that log on a Tercel falling apart. lolll Imagine, that car would be legal in IN and MT. lolll
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:15 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  11. #1371
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Yeah my project is still alive, tabarnak. That was a Quebec swear, the beauty of it it's unfiltered by the administrator. lolll

    I work so much on the car I don't even take time to read other's posts/threads.

    CAD$5500 later, all my welds have been re-done. Took 2 days of work in 2 weeks. One day I needed to tow the car to the guy's garage at 6h40 in the morning.

    2017-04-23 06.13.09_1.jpg

    But it's done calice d'ostie de sacrament de tabarnak de viarge!!

    I got my welding certification. Besides, 80% of the welds were bad and many of them would have failed. Had no choice.
    My personal welds weren't good cuz I'm always too cold, not enough wire and too fast with my hand. He adjusted my machine and showed me how to do it right with steel wire and SS wire.
    He also TIG welded re-fusioned all of my exhaust pipes. They would have failed with time.

    I am now re-building the car, putting stuff back on again so I can start up the engine for 45mins, then go to the dyno, then go to the track, then finish sanding, then wrap body panels, then try to pass inspection, then take a 6-months time off without pay time to recharge my batteries.


    Ok what's this?

    2017-04-24 08.16.16_1.jpg2017-04-24 08.16.23_1.jpg


    I got chased by the US troppers on US59 just East of Laredo TX and they shot at me!!
    Nah seriously, my oil filter was so glued in place we (welder and I) had to drill holes through and use a screwdriver as a lever to get it off! I've never heard of that before.


    I think I've spent as much money as an 818 builder with a 1000hp EZ30 engine with kick *** high end fit and finish. I haven't seen such a builder yet.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:17 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  12. #1372
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Keep your head up Frank, tackle one thing at a time.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  13. #1373
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    DMV's seat mounts.

    2017-05-01 06.41.43_1.jpg2017-05-01 06.42.13_1.jpg



    My expensive welder added some flat plates on both sides to strengthen the bar. Cuz there were too many short tubings welded together and could be prone to cracking with time. These plates will make the only pretty much possible place for bending or cracking to be right in the middle of the tube bar. Can't do much to make it better but it's the same as you guys so I'm not losing strength.

    2017-05-01 07.41.06_1.jpg



    Currently reinstalling parts on the car to start it as soon as weather gives me a break.
    And I started to freak out again for some other reasons. I don't want the whole project to fail, as there would be no viable solution on something.


    I am also thinking of taking 4 weeks off work without pay this summer. I would join them with my usual 3 weeks to make that 7 weeks. This way I could give it the final hit and pass inspection, all that in the fastest possible time. I could finally take some rest and prevent my brain from getting crazy. As of now I found out that the only thing keeping me alive is stress. If I ever get my plate, stress will fall and I have no idea how my body will react. I think it's fair enough to stay away from work and not affect work by that. Time will tell.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:19 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #1374
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I'm getting there, criss de calice de tabarnak, I'm getting there! Never been that far yet anyway.

    2017-05-07 15.28.17_1.jpg2017-05-07 15.28.39_1.jpg2017-05-07 15.29.00_1.jpg


    Mind the green tape on the cluster, just an alignment mark which is no longer required but no "time" to get it off.
    No tunnel cover on yet, I want to see and work around the wires while testing the engine.
    One day, if I pass inspection and don't need to part off the car, those seats will be blue and black.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  15. #1375
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Keep it up Frank. looking good so far. Hopefully they will give you a pass. When are you planning to go in.
    Hopefully BC isn't that tough. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
    Lots of guys here with the MK4's - they said it was pretty easy.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  16. #1376
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    The DMV is on strike starting May 10th.
    What were the odds at this time of my build... actually everything that could fail on my build failed at least once so far.
    For example I wasted 2.5h filling up my AWIC circuit with water this morning. Then the 2 lowest points of the circuit started leaking and the only way I could fix it was to drain the entire system and get a few parts and hoses off. lolll


    Some mind-boggling stats:

    - 3 years of building
    - 125 weeks of at least 30mins of work time
    - 2705h of work
    - Averaging 22h per week (up from 19h at week 100)
    - Engine started 3 times
    - Go-karted once for 200-300 yards
    - Fastest speed was about 10mph (don't even know if my speedo was working)
    - Highest gear changed into was 1st gear.
    - Last engine start on Aug 5th 2016


    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    When are you planning to go in.
    Not possible before July. That will be possible only if I don't have leaks this w-e when I start up the engine, no leaks or issues on the dyno and nothing that would break on the track.
    Honestly such a perfect success or luck never happened on my build, so I can't imagine I will pass until end of July or somewhere in August at the best (depends on the issues).

    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    Hopefully BC isn't that tough.
    Certainly not. I'm sure your place is a piece of cake, I wouldn't worry at all and I wouldn't have any kind of sleeping issues cuz of that (in BC).

    However I'm super interested to know what you come up with your DMV. If it was a hard place to plate, I'm sure you'd know by now. I knew before I bought the kit that QC was hard. It's just that now I discovered half of the rules aren't documented. DOH! lolll

    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    Lots of guys here with the MK4's - they said it was pretty easy.
    That's very encouraging. I have no idea how the MK compares with the 818 in terms of "ease of complying with rules", those I know with an MK in QC had their plate before 2010 when the rules quite changed.
    Like I said, I'd really like to know what you find out with your DMV. Maybe you should go onto their website and pull out the registration procedure to give you an idea. Just in case you are going towards something you may end up with problems. It's worth being pro-active with registration process.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:22 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  17. #1377
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    great to see it drivable. Your about 1/2 way done.
    Bob's right.

    Around 1500h last year I go-karted for the 1st time. (second time was 3 days ago!)
    Now at 2750h, almost done, I'm pretty sure I'll bust 3000h, maybe 3000-3100h, wrap included. Bob was so right, my jaw's dropping!
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:22 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #1378
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Track day!

    Yeah I have a video but won't post, sun was in the face of the camera and I swear in the video.

    The weather was so **** in the past few weeks I had no window to go on the dyno between 8 to 5 Mons to Fris. So I decided to go directly at the track on a sunny Sat. And street tune the car there.


    This is my lift:

    2017-05-27 08.26.57_1.jpg2017-05-27 08.27.17_1.jpg

    Super nice of Jacques (in blue) to let me use his awesome trailer! It's very easy to roll the car in and out of it. Powered by a pure American Ford F150!!


    Which has junky coilpack! It ran in 5cyls and he needed to test the coil. Turns out one coil pin had come off! Fortunately, he had a SPARE COIL in the truck (uh??). You don't see many people swapping coilpacks on the street within 20mins (or swapping coilpacks on the street at all!). I admit it wasn't his 1st time with this engine.

    2017-05-27 08.40.49_1.jpg


    At the track (Jacques was helping fuel tuning):

    2017-05-27 10.58.48_1.jpg2017-05-27 10.58.53_1.jpg



    I said a while back that in order to register my car by mid-summer I needed a perfect track session without any issues.
    See for yourself:

    2017-05-27 11.20.51_1.jpg2017-05-27 11.21.00_1.jpg


    I knew I'd have issues with these axles. They do roll perfectly without any problem or noticeable friction/wear, but the boots are under HIGH tension stress. So far it seems the collars weren't tightened enough (for this crazy pioneer application). One of them came loose and the boot poped out and the other came loose without poping out but the grease barfed everywhere, including inside the rim, on bolts, spring... Thank god I had my disc backing plate! The other 2 boots are in good condition, tight enough. There is wear on the inner boot but I guess after a while it'll become a smooth shinny surface and will wear less.

    I've got 2 other issues. My starter bolt rubs on the frame. Not sure how I'll fix that!! That's a tough design, probably won't do it before inspection.
    The other is that the engine changes sound and looses a LOT of power (almost like if I go under compression) around 3-3.1k and up, even if off boost (say at 80% or 100% atmospheric). Valve guides, chain tensioner, spark plugs, low timing, high timing (knock)... not sure. But it isn't fuel related, I've tried at 17AFR and 11.5AFR and same result.


    So disappointing, but how could I have expected a perfect session without any flaws, it's almost impossible for a difficult and totally non-standard build like this. Jacques, who built and plated a Subaru 818 (yes he's then a God), confirmed my build was difficult and that I had complicated solutions everywhere.


    There are good points of the session though! But I'm not proud of the issues I just can't savor those good points yet.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  19. #1379
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Springs testing!

    450 are a bit too stiff at the front. It was bouncy on the track, I'm sure it wouldn't work well on the streets here.
    350 at the rear are surprisingly good! For my build. It felt comfortable.

    My guess is:

    350 to 400 front
    350 to 450 rear

    I'm gonna buy Tom's 400s, if they are still available and try them at the front. They could also be used at the back, I think so.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  20. #1380
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    The good news about this extreme axle setup is that they do roll perfectly. They are 4in backwards and 2-3in upwards but they roll as if they were perfectly straight.
    The issue is the tension on the boots. This has nothing to do with the inside of the CVs. No one knew if the inside would roll ok cuz no one tried a setup like mine.
    I confirm the angle is not a problem, at least in the short term, for spinning the axles.


    I also highly suggest to anyone: please do NOT build a VR6 818.
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:55 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  21. #1381
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    How does the engine sound?
    How do Porsche gear ratios feel?
    How's the car braking?
    How's the car handling?
    How does it feel to drive an open top, without seat belts, without a helmet and without doors?


    If anyone wants to know how this feels and sounds with a VR6 in the ***, let me know, I'll answer your questions.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  22. #1382
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    If you are not logging a wide band o2 sensor to confirm air fuels,
    you need to before u hurt something. You need to reel up on power checking
    what fuel values Damage occurs in a flash even before you can lift throttle. Good luck!!

  23. #1383
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Despite the issues, major congratulations getting to the track for a shakedown!

    You don't actually state -how did the car feel to drive in anger? Were you working out the engine problem the whole time or did you get to run it out any?
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  24. #1384
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    So Frank, how does it sound with the VR6 out back? Sounds like you actually got it out of first gear! Be careful with the tuning, definitely don't want to be going that lean, especially under boost. Almost sounds like the engine is pulling timing under load, better figure out why. Do you have someone there to tune it?
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  25. #1385
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Engine 3k-3.5k issue solved (theoretically, still need to start engine but axles are off).
    Yes I do run a wideband. Which was almost impossible to read in an open top under sunlight.

    I have an ECU feature where I can give a set RPM rev limit when engine is cold based on water temp under X (user parm) or oil temp under Y (user parm). I choose to cut fuel and/or spark, at the moment it was spark only.
    Since the car was running cold the whole time (read my next post) it triggered the rev limiter the whole time. Also the oil temp sensor I am using is new and I haven't had time to adjust its scaling in my ECU software, it's possible it reads lower than actual temp (I have a VW in-cluster gauge for that to compare to). I have turned off that feature for now. But the way it works is a soft cut-off, it was set to cut all spark at 3500 but it starts say at 25% cut 500rpm lower! Since this is the exact behavior I was experiencing and it was reproducible ALL the time even if I floored the gas pedal, I don't think it can be anything else.

    Issues left:
    - Blown up axles
    - Starter bolt rubbing on frame between lower lateral links
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  26. #1386
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I'll try to bullet point my driving experience.

    I drove the car about 90mins.
    It was sunny and around 20-22C (68-72F for those without a converter in their head, like me loll)
    Track had a few turns and full half a mile straight line (some of it pictured above). It's used for the 1/4 mile runs
    3 other guys were driving some antique cars with straight pipes, had to check for them around cuz I was stopping the car every 15sec to tune fuel.
    I drove something like 15-20km (9-12miles).
    First time in my life I was driving an open top
    First time without seat belts
    First time without doors (and no helmet)

    My overall impressions in 31 validations:

    - FFR fuel level sender is a rotten JOKE. This thing was showing 1/4 of a tank (which is actually 1/8th of a tank cuz the sender starts to go down when you hit half a tank) and 1min later it was showing over half a tank. The car was stand still during both readings. It moved like that for the whole session, absolutely no way to know your fuel. Trip mileage is a must or watch your odo. But you need to know how far you can go with a tank in order to gauge yourself in your head
    - Not that easy to get in or out, there's nothing you can grab onto! Apart from the handbrake lever
    - Gas pedal is firm
    - Brake pedal is extremely firm, I have no idea how to make an emergency stop without snapping off the brake pedal and I couldn't lock any of the wheels. Didn't try that much though
    - Clutch pedal is very firm. I use a 3/4 or 13/16 MC due to the Porsche clutch, Subaru's MC was way too weak to engage
    - This car builds legs
    - Shifting (I went to 4th) is like using Excalibur's sword for which you are not the chosen one and try to shift with it through its rock. Firm shifts, very clunky and imprecise 1st gear if not at a complete stop. But the gears do work awesome
    - Superb clutch feeling when engaging, absolutely no jerks or hiccups like I used to have all the time on the Corrado. Same thing when shifting, once in gears and you put down the power, it's super precise and smooth
    - Gear ratios seemed to be pretty damn good! 1st isn't too short, 2nd pulls great and the others didn't feel too long. 1988 and Porsche already had put their fingers on something great
    - Steering is firm but god damn it's so precise and quick!
    - Steering's road feedback is over the top of excellence
    - Wheel alignment, didn't notice anything wrong here! I did a very few harder pulls though, but the rear never tram lined or anything and the steering was perfectly keeping its track all the time, I don't recall needing to correct track in ANY way. I admit I wasn't going fast or hard, but it's a start!
    - Absolutely no electrical buzzes or weirdo things. Tnx to InfinityBox and my excellent installation
    - This car is MANLY in ALL aspects and definitely not a car I'd let an inexperienced driver test drive
    - Engine is hot in the cockpit and any wind swirling will bring a hot draft inside
    - Exhaust fumes weren't too bad, considering I had no body on and it was often windy towards the cockpit, but when rolling I didn't notice any unpleasant fumes
    - FUEL STARVATION, nothing at all about that. I had about 15liters (4gals or 30% full) in the tank and I experienced nothing. Jacques told me he did experience some starv but only on right HARD and FAST turns with MINIMAL fuel in tank. Something that can hardly happen on the streets. We're not in CA, here!
    - Taking a sharp turn over 30mph is A LOT of fun!
    - Did not notice any body roll, actually quick turns showed me how stiff the chassis is. I admit I didn't turn like Bob, but for what will be done on the streets, this car will never body roll, far from there
    - No leaks
    - No issues with filling up coolant, no burps, no apparent air pockets and no burbling when shutting down the engine, which I had all the time on the Corrado
    - Did not notice unusual heat in the foot area caused by coolant lines
    - Engine was running cold for most of the session
    - Water temps never went over 80-82C (176-180F) and my rad fan never kicked in (should kick at 93C but I can put whatever value I want)
    - Air temps (water cooler) were dropping by 10C (50F) WITHOUT even using the pump! No water circulation and I had constant 50F drop, by just the water inside the cooler
    - Turbo was able to kick in up to 0.5bar (7psi) even though I had the limiter on, so my new BOV worked about twice. Super quick and awesome sound, louder than expected though
    - When applying gas after an overrun situation, it was super smooth, no matter if I was applying quickly or slowly. With my Corrado I always had fuel issues here, probably related to my extremely restrictive exhaust I had
    - When applying gas quickly to say overtake (or just for fun loll), it was also quite smooth, something again I always fell into a lean situation with the Corrado. And my fuel tuning is not yet optimal, so it's very promising
    - There seems to be plenty of torque in the low end, although I run 3in
    - Muffler is super efficient, the sound isn't too loud but loud enough, exactly like I wanted it to be
    - Engine sound on acceleration is.... I need to keep that car, I can't fail, I need that sound! When revs were going over 2.75k I could hear the potential, if it wasn't for that limiter. Can't wait to hear that screaming at 5k

    - Yes I did monitor all of the above during that short session
    - Overall the car drove awesome without issues, apart from the axles and the slight rub on the frame from the starter. If I can fix those 2 issues this car will over impress anyone on the road
    Last edited by Frank818; 05-28-2017 at 07:08 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  27. #1387
    Moonlight Performance
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    Congrats on the HUGE milestone Frank. You definitely took a hard way to get there but it's paying off now. So happy to see you out there driving it, even if it's on the track without the body, given all the registration headaches you've been having.

  28. #1388
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Hey Frank,
    Great job, your getting there, keep on checking off your check list.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  29. #1389
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Awesome write up Frank, we need video!
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    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
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  30. #1390
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    Awesome write up Frank, we need video!
    Axles failed before I could take one.
    But since I fixed the 3k engine issue and will fix the axles one day, my next video will then be either driving on the streets plated raising my middle finger at the DMV or rolling on the dyno. Not sure yet if I'll go at the dyno before or after inspection.
    So no engine videos for probably the whole summer.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  31. #1391
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Big congratulation on the successful drive! It's been a long trail with lots of hurdles, so I admire your perseverance and all that you've learned. I've also learned a lot from your thread.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  32. #1392
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I hesitated before posting these pix. Not sure why.


    Seat back reclining button.

    2017-06-06 06.16.46_1.jpg

    Cockpit shots without seat belts and without my center console tablet, which is required to start the engine. This cockpit is one of the reasons why I spent so much time on the car. The seat belts are ready for permanent install, just that they are not on the pix.

    2017-06-06 06.17.29_1.jpg2017-06-06 06.17.43_1.jpg2017-06-06 06.17.56_1.jpg2017-06-06 06.18.07_1.jpg

    Hum, maybe I should have put suede on the rear firewall panels. Easier to manipulate if I need to remove. I'll put that on my list for next year. Oh, right, it doesn't cover the big holes to pass the wires and cables through. I'm sticking with cloth.

    One thing I really am not happy about, is that my AFR gauge on the far top left of the dash (square gauge) is TOTALLY invisible under sunlight. Can't see the numbers. Sucks.

    For those wondering what I have left to do.
    Well I am fixing some damn gel coat things, adding gel coat to one rear fender to close up the gap between panels, rocker panel painting the under car aluminum panels and splash guards, blocking off the steering column we can still see (hum next year), blocking off the huge gaps around the cluster (nah next year) and then I adjust my headlights and then it's time to... wrap the body!


    While this guy is having fun in his Ferrari, I'm waiting for the bus...

    2017-05-30 07.39.00_1.jpg
    Last edited by Frank818; 08-11-2017 at 10:25 AM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  33. #1393
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Buy longer CV Boots- Try universal ones, or look around for longer ones. That will solve that problem easy.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  34. #1394
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    can you use a lathe to turn a small v grove in that silver axle piece? then use a little safety wire to tighten it up?

    great progress though!
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  35. #1395
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Buy longer CV Boots- Try universal ones, or look around for longer ones. That will solve that problem easy.
    Good point, didn't even know they exist. Just need to find the right diameters and length and it may work. Problem is I only measure the OD of the boot, so I guess I have to aim for a little lower.


    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    can you use a lathe to turn a small v grove in that silver axle piece? then use a little safety wire to tighten it up?

    great progress though!
    The inner CV already has a deep grove, which is why I was surprised it popped out. I don't have access to a lathe tool, but if it comes down to safety wire I'll see what can be done. Good idea yeah.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  36. #1396
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Good news, if reclamping the boots doesn't work, I have 2 other solutions and at least one will work for sure:

    - DSS suggested "Hyperspeed boots", which I cannot find anything about it on the web
    - This place http://www.stretchcvboot.com/cv-boots/

    They have 3 sizes and each size can fit a VARIOUS amount of widths. They are stretchable without wear, which is what I need could at every wheel cycle the boot continuously stretches and compresses, due to the angle.
    Good ol' Australians!! Tnx to you.
    I couldn't find these types elsewhere, at least not yet.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  37. #1397
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    I have to ask: Why did you use the Porsche transaxle? Why not use the standard Subie 5/6 speed trans? It seems to me that the VR6 engine isn't much(if any) longer than the EJ25(at least according to a quick google search). I believe that might have alleviated a lot of the pain of your particular swap.

  38. #1398
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Couple of reasons:

    - Gearbox and inner CVs are "judged by me" too weak for the torque I have (debatable a few will say), I've seen some here and elsewhere destroying their gearbox with less and equal (doesn't mean ALL subie boxes are weak), so I didn't want to have that problem. There are options like PPG gears and stuff but there are compromises that didn't suit me. With the G50 I never need to think about it
    - I intend to increase torque within time as well
    - Gear ratios are not at all to my taste, engine curve and driving style (too short all around). There are options but again there are compromises outside my limits. With the G50 the ratios are already pretty good and I can change one single gear at a time choosing through a wide list of ratios
    - Was easy to find the adapter plate for the VR6-to-G50. Maybe easy for the VR6-to-Subie as well, I don't know
    - Less important but still, my friend mechanic knows the VR6 since insception and works on Porsches every day for a long time, so any engine or gearbox work will be easy, also he's got a bunch a spare parts almost for free to me
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  39. #1399
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    I suppose it depends on exactly how much torque you are putting out....but things can be done. If you are putting out enough torque to easily overpower your wheels, its a waste and you are better off changing for lower torque and higher HP instead via things like shorter intake runners, etc. The benefit being, the lower the torque the less stress on the gearbox. Its a balancing act of course, you still want to be able to light the wheels up on demand, but at the same time, doing so is a waste of available power. Also, tires factor in a big way into breaking driveline parts(the stickier the tire, the more likely it is to break a gearbox on a hard launch) as does vehicle weight. The question is, those people who broke the WRX trans...did they break it in a lightweight 818 or a different vehicle? How much torque were they making? Did they break the transmission while launching? If so, what tires were they using? All of it factors in....to me, wheelspin is just lost speed, but not to others. As for the gear ratios being too short....well, that is entirely subjective. Which Subie box are we talking? An STI 6-speed trans for instance have comparable ratios to 2017 Mustang GT. A 5 speed WRX has longer gears(no surprise having one less gear) but 1st gear is essentially worthless. Boost of course plays into gear ratios...ideally a 6 speed is worthless for boost...as are shorter gears in general. The more times you are shifting under boost, the more times you loose boost and have to re-spool the turbo. Ideally for a turbo build you want a 5 speed with wide ratios to stay in boost longer...but who makes a transaxle like that these days? The hype of 6th gear has taken over the world sadly. For a NA build I much prefer 6 gears with close ratios(at least the 1st 5, all I really want 6th for is better interstate cruising), but with a turbo build, I would find a 5 speed wide ratio box.

    Aside from my musing-out-loud though, I do like your build and your choice of trans does make sense.

  40. #1400
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Oh all this is most of all subjective, yes. The G50 was what I'm looking for in every aspect, except weight and axle angles. It took time but now the axles are not stressing me anymore, once I fix those boots for which solutions do exist, there is no reason it wouldn't work as good as normal axle angles. Besides, a G50 in perfect condition for USD$3k is almost impossible to find. I could sell it for double the price.

    Maybe after tweaking a Subie gearbox it would work but when I was looking for a gearbox solution, no one came near to convince me on the Subie (2002-2007 5 and 6-sp or Legacy's) for my requirements and the G50 was there, answering everything except the axle angle back then. Choice was easy at a ridiculously low price.

    Some Subie gears got destroyed in 818s, I think more than one but the most famous is FFR blowing up their 3rd gear with only 340hp (I've got around 450 and could put out more easily). Yes it was in race mode but still. 3rd is the most important gear to me, it's the one I step on it the most. Then 1st gear, as a long one, to get a good long launch with minimal spin.

    The G50 has long ratios which is great for turbo. I plan on maybe changing 1 to 3 of them, but that is tweaking. I understood it was much harder on the Impreza box. Since my goal is to build a custom car customized to my tastes, gear ratios is something very important to me. Choosing the exact ratio I like for each gear is something high on my list. G50 is perfect for that.

    I checked the Audi boxes too, but they all had 2 to 5 gears upgrade at a time and very very short ratios (changing the FD is not necessarily an option). I've experienced that on my Corrado with OEM 5sp before I changed to 6sp with long 1-2 and it made the car totally different. I wanted to reproduce that, rather than being unhappy all the time I drive the car. With the G50 all this is a fact to be possible and it can support a good 600hp. I just needed to take the risk with the axle angles and it's actually fine.

    In the end, nothing prevents me from changing to an Impreza box, if I can find an adapter plate. But so far there is no reason I see why I'd do it.

    Remember, this build is not about making money or making it a low budget build, it's about making it as close as possible to what I want/prefer. It's gonna cost me a lot more, but that's how I want it to be. Which I think is one thing that makes my build special. I wanted an antique and respected drivetrain, the VR6 is 25yo and still exists in some new cars and the G50 from an 88 Porsche is well known to be a great gearbox, even after 30years. Both are old school and is what I am looking for.
    Last edited by Frank818; 06-12-2017 at 05:35 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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