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Thread: Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

  1. #1201
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Frank,
    When we were at the same point as you, we thought we only had some small stuff to do before inspection. That small stuff wasn't as little as we thought. The last 3 days before our schedule inspection were without much sleep.
    I suggest you test, test, test. Drive it back and forth in the drive way. Up and down curbs. get it hot.

    A fender rub, water, brake fluid, or oil leak can ruin you day.
    Congrats of your milestone.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  2. #1202
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Can't agree more, Bob. That's my plan.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  3. #1203
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  4. #1204
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Alcantara?

  5. #1205
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Alcantara?
    Nope, suede. Have black and blue for the entire cockpit. I always dreamt of having such interior but usually you gotta pay a crap load of money to get a supercar with full suede cockpit. Now I do it myself. Tnx to FFR.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  6. #1206
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Guys, my hub is squeaking, only this one. Is it a problem?

    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  7. #1207
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Even Bob doesn't know about my hub squeak?


    For those having the 1st gen splitter and diffuser, you probably noticed the finish is very hazy and foggy. I found out by buffing it with 3M finishing compound (could use something else surely) the finish comes back almost mirror finish. No pic yet though. Very busy interior wrapping day. The only prob with these 1st gen's is they have some defect in the carbon itself (but they were so cheap to buy!). A few rare ones will show up but most of them are are located where the parts fit hidden under the car, thank god.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  8. #1208
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Congrats on "finishing". I know that is a VERY lose term at this point, but still, moving from major work to minor work is a big deal, even if the "minor' work is going to keep you busy for a while.

    Thanks again for all the photos, the start of my 2017 will be starting in on the body finally. Autocross season starts in March, and I'm planning to haul the car in kart form and start giving it some real shakedown drives.

    No idea on the hub squeak. Mine squeaks, but not that loud, wheel bearings is on my check-after-each-drive list and I'm planning to see if it quiets with some use.
    -Steve

  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Even Bob doesn't know about my hub squeak?


    For those having the 1st gen splitter and diffuser, you probably noticed the finish is very hazy and foggy. I found out by buffing it with 3M finishing compound (could use something else surely) the finish comes back almost mirror finish. No pic yet though. Very busy interior wrapping day. The only prob with these 1st gen's is they have some defect in the carbon itself (but they were so cheap to buy!). A few rare ones will show up but most of them are are located where the parts fit hidden under the car, thank god.
    Funny, I just polished mine (both the gen1 splitter and gen1 side skirts) over the last couple of days. Turned out very well though I notice the same defects in the carbon (stretched wrong, pieces of cloth randomly laying over the top, bubbles in the epoxy, etc). It wouldn't work for a show car but for me on a car that sees plenty of road and track use, its 100% fine. The difference in cost between gen1 and gen2 is better spent elsewhere IMHO.

  10. #1210
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Steve let me know if you ever need pix of something very precise.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Funny, I just polished mine (both the gen1 splitter and gen1 side skirts) over the last couple of days. Turned out very well though I notice the same defects in the carbon (stretched wrong, pieces of cloth randomly laying over the top, bubbles in the epoxy, etc). It wouldn't work for a show car but for me on a car that sees plenty of road and track use, its 100% fine. The difference in cost between gen1 and gen2 is better spent elsewhere IMHO.
    Exactly. I think it was 200 back then, which is really a great deal. Let's not forget that only a small part of the splitter/diffuser shows up, if that part doesn't have big visual defects, than 200 is a deal. But yeah polishing them really helps. Don't know why I didn't think about it in the last 3 years. I also have some compatible resin for chopped strand matt CF (cheap method) like this so I can fix a few things.

    So Jeff, how much fwd your splitter sticks out? 3?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  11. #1211
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Even Bob doesn't know about my hub squeak?
    Funny, I almost responded to your video the other day.
    1. Check to see if you have good clearance between the outer edge of the rotor and the caliper.
    2. Just a sliver of metal (from drilling a hole) on the brake pad will make that noise. Take the pads out. Touch the with some sand paper, then test again.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    So Jeff, how much fwd your splitter sticks out? 3?
    Around 3.25" depending on where you measure from.

  13. #1213
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    I received my "Frank818 Bumpsteer Kit" today, thanks again Frank! For those who don't know, frank was putting together a kit from various venders south of the border. He very graciously ordered 2 of everything, and shipped me everything I needed. I've been incredibly busy the past few months and it was so nice to not have to hunt down where to buy what, where to save on shipping, and what was needed. He didn't even want a dime from me until it was on it's way, so just one easy transaction.

    Just another example of what a great community we have here. Cheers!
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  14. #1214
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Adam, you got it quickly! Good thing. And tnx a lot for the kind words!


    Bob, tnx for the idea, I checked and it makes noise with pads removed, I still think it's related to the bearing seal, cuz the more I torque the axle nut, the more it makes noise. Although after playing with the disc/wheel and sanding the pads, it's a lot better now. I think it's a no issue and won't cause a prob while driving. Tnx Bob!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  15. #1215
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I have a car testing dilemma I'd like your opinion on.


    I know I need a fuel retune
    I know I cannot pass inspection without that tune
    I know I need that tune to test the car on a track and dyno
    I know I can tune it on a ractrack
    I know I can also tune it on a dyno (sort of running in circle here!)
    How can I do the tune, then?


    And here's where things get more complicated:
    I know there is a possibility of leaks (coolant, oïl, mostly coolant) if I drive the car on a track
    I know there is a possibility of leaks (coolant, oïl, mostly coolant) if I roll the car on a dyno




    What should I do when?


    Should I install all body panels but the rear belly pan or there is a possiblity I would need to remove the body panels for some reason, when I'm at the testing phase?
    If I don't install the panels, how fast can a go kart drive on a track without causing aerodynamics issues or rocks chipping something?
    If I go a on dyno without fixing possible leaks first, I could have to stop after 10mins and tow the car back home without sealing the leak before I get to my tools. Quite a loss of money for towing and unsued paid dyno time.
    Same thing could happen on a track and that track is about 45mins from home, if not 1h.




    Ok so it seems fixing the leaks BEFORE doing anything else is a must.


    Then how can I fix my leaks before I tune the engine?
    Drive in the small 200 meters or so parking street in the back of my condo? Can hardly go over 30mph and cannot shift in 3rd unless at very low rpms. Won't get the engine warm enough at Spring's cold temps.




    I really don't know how to approach this... what a weird dilemma. loll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  16. #1216
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    My two cents:

    You can drive at any speed at the track if you like. There are a number of track cars that have basically no body work at all. I wouldn't worry about that.

    The belly pans are very easily removed so I wouldn't let that be a factor. I wouldn't worry about body panels being in the way of fixing leaks, except for the coolant side-pipes.

    Based on my experience I would:
    1. With the body off, let the car idle for like 45 minutes. In my experience, most leaks will be discovered this way. The engine and cooling system get pretty warm this way. Not like on the track but enough to show most leaks.
    2. Tow it for a dyno tune
    3. Put the body on

    I would use constant tension spring clamps for the coolant hose couplings on the side pipes.

  17. #1217
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good plan, however I always thought letting a car idle for a long period of time isn't good to the engine.

    But other than fouling the plugs and burning gas without rolling, I don't think it would harm. If can tune it since on idle the plugs should be ok too and they are the least of my concerns anyway, I got a bunch of them in my garage.

    So will do that!

    Step #4 will be Driving at a track to troubleshoot driving issues (suspension, brakes, etc.)
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #1218
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Congrats Frank, can't test enough, I drove short loops for weeks getting the kinks out and actually had a trans failure coming off the lft at the inspection station!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  19. #1219
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    What failure # was it?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  20. #1220
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    Hey Frank,

    Best of luck testing and passing inspection! Your thread really has become an awesome source of info for the rest of us. Thanks for doing it the hard way. It's obvioulsy not finished until you post a quarter mile time or a porsche or something Italian in your rear view mirror breathing your burnt rubber, but you're almost there. Congrats man!

    Speedy G

  21. #1221
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I ordered a cut-off disc for aluminum on Sep 29th, never showed up, guy re-shipped, never showed up, ordered from another seller, never showed up. Over 75% (20+) of my ebay orders since Sep 29 did NOT show up and needed refunds. Boy that's mind-breaking to manage all these refunds and finding alternatives!! At a higher price... I don't know what's going on with ebay deliveries since Sep, never seen that before. Hopefully Amazon doesn't **** me up too, just ordered over 15 items in the past 2 weeks. And Amazon.ca has a LOT less good stuff than Amazon.com which 90% of the time doesn't ship to Canada. Hard to complete the car if I can't get my parts. This is no longer a VR6 turbo build, it's a build made of scrap parts partly designed to meet the requirements. I'll find a way to make it through anyway, nothing will stop me, already said that.

    However I decided to spend time in exchange of not having my tool, to cut off aluminum for my last NACA-like duct. Belly pan is now completed.

    2017-01-15 08.12.48_1.jpg2017-01-15 08.13.09_1.jpg



    Apart from some carpeting I'm still waiting for and for secondary parts I can pass inspection without them (**** you ebay), the car is done. I have fixed many little things, re-enforced some other things, am powder coating some parts and will soon start wrapping the body panels. I'll take time to trim them better and have a better over all fit. Plus put some sound deadening and a little more heat protection. And there are still a very few things I'm in the process of fixing, little things I'm not fully happy with.

    Also I managed to align the damn 1st gen fuel filler neck. With original rubber hose! So I paid 80 bucks US with shipping to get the new rubber hose for nothing. I'll see if I can make it "better" next year as a winter project. There is tension on the neck right now, but maybe 80%. There's still 20% of play left. Should work on the street, the tank and side sail should not move.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  22. #1222
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Very close to wrapping the body.

    This past week marked the last moment of fixing and improvements (before everything blows up on my next engine start, on the dyno and then at the track loll).

    Following BOB's advice, I changed my SS bolts screwed into alu rivnuts, to minimize corrosion risk through time. Using black oxide almost every where. I remember why I used SS bolts, they were for under body panels. Stronger and more corrosion resistant... to the outside, but I didn't know about the damn alu rivnuts. There will still be places where I'll use zinc bolts or SS bolts. After all, zinc bolts are used on alu panels by FFR and ZeroDcb uses steel rivnuts on alu brackets. Besides I cannot roll a tire into water as my rear bearings don't have seals. I think I'll be ok. Worst case, I know how to dismantle the car and I can fix corrosion issues. I will inspect every year.

    Besides one part waiting to finish my interior, I'm left with squeezing in some more bulb seal on the splash guards, spraying them with underbody rubberized coat, applying sound and heat insulation to body panels and fitting body panels for an even better gap. Then I wrap.

    Ok I still need to improve the potential reliabilty issues of the Eagle Eye LEDs in the headlights. Starting tomorrow morning before going to work.


    I also followed BN's advice and strengthen the area where the tow hook pulls (but did it in a more aggressive design). I was too unsure about the strength and I need some kind of bumper to pass inspections. With the addition of 3ft of steel square tubes connecting the middle of the tow hook to the rear of the bottom radiator frame, I'm sure it helps for both pulling and crushing.

    2017-01-21 08.17.13_1.jpg
    Last edited by Frank818; 01-22-2017 at 07:45 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  23. #1223
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    Looking forward to seeing the wrap.

    Wish I could have used the FFR splash guards. They fit very poorly for me so I had to make my own.

  24. #1224
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Good idea on the tow hook bracing, I'm in the process of doing something very similar.

  25. #1225
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Wish I could have used the FFR splash guards. They fit very poorly for me so I had to make my own.
    I either got lucky or badly made my measurements and when I'll drive the 265s will rub on hard compression. Hopefully not.


    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Good idea on the tow hook bracing, I'm in the process of doing something very similar.
    Whatcha got in your mind that is similar?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  26. #1226
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Whatcha got in your mind that is similar?
    It'll look similar to what you did - using two angled bars to tie the middle of the lower bar to the back corners. Except I'm attaching the hook slightly more elevated so I don't have to cut a hole in the grill and I'm probably going to make the whole thing removable (bolt-in). It's still in the works, not ready for primetime yet, but the approach is very similar to what you did.

  27. #1227
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    The bars will be as far back as the rad support goes (almost where the steering rack is)?
    How will you make the bars removable?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  28. #1228
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    The bars will be as far back as the rad support goes (almost where the steering rack is)?
    How will you make the bars removable?
    Right, the brace bars will be as close to the lower rear corners of the front sub-frame or as close to where the sub-frame attaches to the rest of the chassis as I can get them. When adding bracing, it's best to couple the intended load/attachment points as close as possible. To make it removable, I'm just going to weld on some tabs with through holes to the ends of the brace bars. As soon as the weather clears up around here and I get some car time, I'll finish it up.

  29. #1229
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Frank, you want triangles, much stiffer, I might add cables, much lighter
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 01-24-2017 at 10:24 AM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  30. #1230
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Frank, did you ever find those perforated base studs in Canada?
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  31. #1231
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Dan I'm sure you're right, makes sense. My assumption is that those 2 bars are plenty enough to prevent any bending when towing the car, based on its weight (which is NOT 818kgs). I knew there were better ways to make it stronger, you just confirmed it, but my assumption is I don't need the stiffest possible. Let's just hope I'm not wrong here. But I'm curious, what would cables be good at to act as a bumper?

    STI I'll keep an eye on your thread to see what you come up with, or if you change design and follow Dan's advice.

    Adam, no, damn it. Couldn't find those perfo studs in Canada. Local stores and what I found on the web is a total no go. You better act quickly to buy any parts from US, soon the border will be closed for us up here.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  32. #1232
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    OMFG!!!!

    I finally got my last part (for which I didn't buy enough and need to buy more but the Korean guy is on vacations until 1st which means I'll get it in March but on March 1st I need to start wrapping the body, oh well) and finished my dash.

    I am amazed at how it looks. This thing is sitting in my bedroom, damn it. I wanna see it all the time.

    This suede wrap is extremely difficult to apply, especially with 2 hands and even worse on a large part. With time I found tricks to handle it. And then I found how to make precise cuts. Very difficult to make them, I don't know if vinyl wire tape for vinyl would work as I didn't get my tape yet, but I found something else and with a lot of careful attention and gentle hand you can make precise cuts, and much more linear. I was able to fix the kit-car-ish look with wavy color splits and made them 90-95% OEM.

    Now just wait for the console.


    2017-01-26 08.32.09_1.jpg2017-01-26 08.32.56_1.jpg2017-01-26 08.34.48_1.jpg
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  33. #1233
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Wow, Frank, it looks good!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  34. #1234
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    I like the way your interior is coming together. Good work!

  35. #1235
    BN's Avatar
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    Wooooow I'm jealous

  36. #1236
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Nice - Between you and Pete I'm going to have to re-think my interior now.
    -Steve

  37. #1237
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Frank, I know you can make your wipers park at the bottom. You have solved many more difficult problems. I mounted the donor wiper mechanism differently than Dan to clear my remote reservoir, but Dan is correct about how it works. At first, I also had the wiper going down before each stroke but moved the short pivot on the wiper motor arm until it worked without the down-up start of each stroke, like Dan said. I took a video but can't figure out how to post it. So, I hope this helps:
    Attachment 63464Attachment 63465Attachment 63466


    That second pic... that told me everything.


    Dan and Pete convinced me on the Benz mono-wiper thread that its possible to make the wiper sit at the lowest end of the sweep angle. When I looked at my wiper system I was looking at the flat bar arm of wiper arm, underneath the wiper shaft. It seemed to be pressed in and I thought without a press or something I couldn't get it out and back in.

    I never checked at the smaller flat arm connected RIGHT ON the motor shaft. This one has a 17mm hex nut and a crush washer. Hold on very firmly on the flat arm and unbolt the nut. A rubber hammer helps. Then you can easily pull the flat arm, angle it a little different, push it in and bolt the nut back on.

    On the pic, the black mark is where the arrow on the flat arm points to. The left red mark is where I need it to point in order to have the wiper as low as possible.

    2017-01-30 15.37.49_1.jpg


    It works! My blade is almost all hidden, now. Maybe I'll keep the unit on after inspection, then.



    So Pete yes I have managed to fix much harder issues, but many of them I did with the ideas or help of this forum. This time I was stupid enough not to see that hex nut and try something, so again the forum got me out of my ****.


    On a different note, I can't buy stuff for a while, maybe a week or a little more, I got a call at 6h40PM from my credit card company asking about a purchase, I said yeah I did that Saturday. Then the nice lady said (in English not French) did you just use your card to set up a Paypal account? I said uhhmmmm... nooo, I didn't do anything with Paypal for a couple of days, do you mean someone used it to set up an account recently? She said yes at 6h30PM (10mins ago! I was watching The Grand Tour, Mike). I said no. So my card is cancelled and have to wait for a new one in the mail, no buys for me for a couple of days and that is really bad I was about to buy more suede for my interior, waiting for the korean guy to come back from vacations (the msg said on Jan31st but he's still out). I guess that'll be more delays.


    Lessons learn for everyone especially the beginners:
    ANYTHING can and will happen to you during a build, especially a 2-3+ years build. Packages you won't get, others that'll take 3 months, issues processing orders, receiving the wrong item twice from the same seller, fake websites stealing your money, sellers not telling you your item has shipped so you won't be home when it'll arrive, delivery man ringing on the wrong door, delivery truck snapping off an engine belt and skipping a day while you're home waiting for the delivery, carriers delivering on the wrong day, customs holding up your important package for a full audit, filing RMAs 3 times for the same part, stuff you'll buy and turn out you won't need, stuff you'll break and will need to buy again in a hurry, packages delivered to the wrong address, causing more delays for which you bought other stuff as replacements in the meantime and you get your item later but won't use it, cutting adhesive carpet upside-down TWICE scrapping the entire sheet, cutting too short, bending metal at the wrong place requiring to cut and weld, credit card # being cloned, stuff you'll lose, massacre, step on it, crush, drop, explode, burn, mistakenly weld to something else, wear out way too quickly, even swallow god damn it! As a beginner builder you have to be prepared to face these challenges which most of the time make you pay and waste time.

    I believe all the above happened to me and I forget a few.
    Last edited by Frank818; 02-01-2017 at 07:08 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  38. #1238

    Yes, I love Technology
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    I've had most of your list happen and that's before I had ever heard of the 818. And yes every beginner
    Should expect their share of such misfortunes. Press on and enjoy the ride.

  39. #1239
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Be happy they caught it though, but big bummer if it slows you down. I keep thinking if I built it "straight out of the box" i wouldn't have these things come up, but then I read some post and think --- boy the car would be better if I built it that way... and another box is in the mail.
    -Steve

  40. #1240
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Frank,
    I was expecting a erector set when I ordered the 818.
    I was wrong. But that was a blessing in disguise. I got to learn with my son: fabrication, suspension set up, project management, hard work, time management, powder coating, engine control, welding, race car setup, and performance driving. ect ect ect

    I feel like I am the luckiest man in the world getting to do this with my son.

    Now for the down side.
    I ran into a few of the same issues as you. broke 2 sets of axle, one transmission (400 autocross launches) one engine, oil starvation.
    If I did this project alone, I don't know if I would have the ambition to finish it.
    I have some bad news for you Frank. I feel the day you take it on your first test drive, is your 1/2 way point.
    Happy building, and don't get frustrated.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 02-02-2017 at 04:38 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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