FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[RetroRacing]

I have lots of years running on Carbotech pads, what I find is that a car that is weighted in the heavy in rear needs more aggressive pads in front to avoid the rear from locking up, I would far rather have the front lock than the rear, so I find this split of pad compound to be just about right, so I will see how this works out on the 818. The front and rear pads are the same surface area, the front pads are just thicker by a few millimeters

We do too, we always have run split compounds and master sizes using both Carbotech and hawk, but my understanding was to use same master sizes and same compound for rear biased cars with downforce. I hope I'm not wrong, but Im sure I will know after the first lockup

[Bob_n_Cincy]

We do too, we always have run split compounds and master sizes using both Carbotech and hawk, but my understanding was to use same master sizes and same compound for rear biased cars with downforce. I hope I'm not wrong, but Im sure I will know after the first lockup

Just to let you know how our brakes are biased.
We have no areo.
All four calipers and pads are identical. Rotors are very close to the same size. Our wilwood pv is in the rear circuit turned down 4 revolutions.
Over a 1000 track miles with no brake issues.
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

Bo

Just to let you know how our brakes are biased.
We have no areo.
All four calipers and pads are identical. Rotors are very close to the same size. Our wilwood pv is in the rear circuit turned down 4 revolutions.
Over a 1000 track miles with no brake issues.
Bob

Bob, thanks for the input as this will help as I setup the car as other experiences always help. I did add a BV on front and rear circuit just in case so if the compound is not balanced I can take most of that out with the BV.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm targeting August 4th at the Ridge for test and tune, not my choice of tracks for test & tune but PIR or PR don't have any days open. I need to figure out how I'm going to tie down the front of the car in the trailer, not sure yet, rear I will use the rims with straps.

[RetroRacing]

Actually, we may make that date at the ridge as well, car is in for tuning, should have it back this week. An hour to put the body back on and we are good to go.
Need to rush my RX7 so that we can break that in as well that weekend, needs some time on track.

[Mitch Wright]

I loop straps through the wheels, works great. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...3o0&ajaxhist=0

[RetroRacing]

THe only problem with that is nothing stops the car from bouncing on the springs and working the shocks without airflow over them, so the get very, very hot on a long tow. We are looking for answers as well, due to our lovely sealed floor and nothing to tie it down to.

[Mitch Wright]

Well to me that is over thinking, and that is the only way we can tie down a GT3 car, Trans Am car, Porsche Cup car or prototype.

[C.Plavan]

Problem solved- this is what I did on the rear of my old R



The hole is bigger than the bolt, just snug it down right. I did not have any issues. Simple and easy.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie...oductinfo/E04/

[C.Plavan]

Well to me that is over thinking, and that is the only way we can tie down a GT3 car, Trans Am car, Porsche Cup car or prototype.

You have seen their car right? :P

[RetroRacing]

COOL! Ill have to see if we could do that. Was thinking, over thinking probably, of installing a bounce limiter from frame to LCA, to compress the frame down onto the arms to limit cycling the shocks during towing. I know this stuff seems trivial, but God is in the details....and ive burned myself on a shock before while removing the tie downs after towing for 8 hours.

[FFRSpec72]

After thrashing the car a little this weekend, I have a oil leak so now I have to figure out where, it has to be the remote oil cooler/filter connections as it does not look like an engine leak. Also had gauge wire issues, all fixed now. Finished hooking up the fire system.

I do have some side to side axle play., not sure if this is supposed to be like that or not ?

[FFRSpec72]

Problem solved- this is what I did on the rear of my old R

The hole is bigger than the bolt, just snug it down right. I did not have any issues. Simple and easy.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie...oductinfo/E04/

Yes these are the ones I got

[Frank818]

I do have some side to side axle play., not sure if this is supposed to be like that or not ?

I think yes, cuz the CVs can move back and forth on the axle, probably about 1" overall. Mines do, both CVs, although I didn't try once installed if I can move the axle side to side.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I think yes, cuz the CVs can move back and forth on the axle, probably about 1" overall. Mines do, both CVs, although I didn't try once installed if I can move the axle side to side.

The wheel hub CV should not have play in the axial direction.
Bob

[Frank818]

There is play to allow suspension travel which slightly changes the length of the overall driveshaft (both my CVs have play before installing). But I don't know when installed if by hand you can feel the play, maybe that's what you're referring to?

Tony your play is on the car or shafts removed?

[FFRSpec72]

There is play to allow suspension travel which slightly changes the length of the overall driveshaft (both my CVs have play before installing). But I don't know when installed if by hand you can feel the play, maybe that's what you're referring to?

Tony your play is on the car or shafts removed?

On the car, I imagine that there has to be some play since the suspension move up and down an thus changes length of axles. The axles have a bout 1/2 of travel in/out

[Frank818]

I have no play when on the car, by hand I cannot feel any. If you do, I believe there's a problem.

[FFRSpec72]

I have no play when on the car, by hand I cannot feel any. If you do, I believe there's a problem.

I should have been clearer, I have the female CV joints as I used a 2002 WRX for parts, so the CV joint goes on to the transmission axles, I can move the CV joint back and forth, ohhhhhh crap I forgot to put the roll pins back on and I bet the axle holes and CV joint holes are not aligned .... I really don't want to have to take the rear apart again f$%#$%^

[STiPWRD]

I should have been clearer, I have the female CV joints as I used a 2002 WRX for parts, so the CV joint goes on to the transmission axles, I can move the CV joint back and forth, ohhhhhh crap I forgot to put the roll pins back on and I bet the axle holes and CV joint holes are not aligned .... I really don't want to have to take the rear apart again f$%#$%^

Hopefully the holes are aligned but if not, try unbolting the top bolt that goes through the spindle and lower coilover. You should be able to tilt the spindle outward enough to pull the inner CV joint off the trans. I don't think it'll mess up the alignment either.

[FFRSpec72]

Hopefully the holes are aligned but if not, try unbolting the top bolt that goes through the spindle and lower coilover. You should be able to tilt the spindle outward enough to pull the inner CV joint off the trans. I don't think it'll mess up the alignment either.

No they are not, thanks for the tip on what to try. Anyone know what size the roll pin is as these were off the car when I got the parts and that is why I forgot the pins since I did not disassemble the car

[STiPWRD]

No they are not, thanks for the tip on what to try. Anyone know what size the roll pin is as these were off the car when I got the parts and that is why I forgot the pins since I did not disassemble the car

I'm not sure of the diameter but it's subaru p/n: 905190007 (axle spring pin), they're about $3 a piece. I also used an 02 donor.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm not sure of the diameter but it's subaru p/n: 905190007 (axle spring pin), they're about $3 a piece. I also used an 02 donor.

I was able to just unhook the upper lateral link and tilt the spindle and get this fixed. I had the pins in my donor box but had no idea what they were for, now I know as that saved me some potential damage !

[FFRSpec72]

I added my trailer tie downs for front and rear

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[FFRSpec72]

I'm almost finished my intercooler forced air, this is running from the side vent inner scoops picking up the surface air on the side of the car as I have increased the front fender gap to help surface air flow. The intercooler is not centered, so made clearance an issue. Now I just have to figure out how to connect 4" brake duct hose to 3" brake duct hose as the internal scoops are 4" and the intercooler ducts are 3" (as you see in picture).
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[FFRSpec72]

I also finished running the wideband O2 sensor to the data logger so I can keep an eye on the AFR, I have ordered a gauge also so I can have a visual look-see w/o having to wait to look at the logs.

[idf]

I'm almost finished my intercooler forced air, this is running from the side vent inner scoops picking up the surface air on the side of the car as I have increased the front fender gap to help surface air flow. The intercooler is not centered, so made clearance an issue. Now I just have to figure out how to connect 4" brake duct hose to 3" brake duct hose as the internal scoops are 4" and the intercooler ducts are 3" (as you see in picture).
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What did you use internally to collect air from the side scoops to your ducts?

[FFRSpec72]

What did you use internally to collect air from the side scoops to your ducts?

Some prototype scoops from FFR that mount on the inside of side vent on the side sail, so they force the air up to a 4" outlet at the top of the side vent. There are some picture some where in my posts here

[Canadian818]

I'm almost finished my intercooler forced air, this is running from the side vent inner scoops picking up the surface air on the side of the car as I have increased the front fender gap to help surface air flow. The intercooler is not centered, so made clearance an issue. Now I just have to figure out how to connect 4" brake duct hose to 3" brake duct hose as the internal scoops are 4" and the intercooler ducts are 3" (as you see in picture).
WP_20160807_11_37_46_Rich.jpg

Looking good Tony! Very interested in how effectively your ducting works. While I won't be using a top mount, I'm torn between jamming an intercooler in front of a rear wheel or ducting to a rear mount.

[FFRSpec72]

Looking good Tony! Very interested in how effectively your ducting works. While I won't be using a top mount, I'm torn between jamming an intercooler in front of a rear wheel or ducting to a rear mount.

The only concern I have is idle time, I should not have much of that. I may also add a fan, but I will be able to tell if I'm getting heat soaked pretty quickly

[Hindsight]

Hey Tony, quick question for you: I am running an HPDE day in a couple weeks and the rule sheet said no antifreeze - straight water only. Is that typical for SCCA/NASA events? It isn't something I have ever had to do for HPDE. I understand the reasoning behind it but am not keen on running straight water on an engine I would like to get a reasonable amount of mileage out of.

I figured you might know. Thanks.

[FFRSpec72]

Hey Tony, quick question for you: I am running an HPDE day in a couple weeks and the rule sheet said no antifreeze - straight water only. Is that typical for SCCA/NASA events? It isn't something I have ever had to do for HPDE. I understand the reasoning behind it but am not keen on running straight water on an engine I would like to get a reasonable amount of mileage out of.

I figured you might know. Thanks.

Yes standard track regulation not a SCCA/NASA/xxx regulation (so this may vary per track) but lets face it 99% of the HPDE cars are daily drivers and they all run antifreeze, on my race cars I run a anticorrosion additive and that all.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Tony. What anti-corrosion additive do you like?

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks Tony. What anti-corrosion additive do you like?

Here is the one I use and it actually works not rust and I leave it in for 2 years and then change http://www.no-rosion.com/hyperkuhlcoolant.htm

[Hindsight]

Nice thank you.

[Mitch Wright]

You can also use Redline Water Wetter, it can be found at many chain auto parts stores. Most tracks and HPDE groups either mandate or highly recommend flush the system and use water. The reason is antifreeze is like oil on the track. Now with all that said most car groups don't check or just don't enforce the rule. As stated the reason is most that are new to track days drive the cars to the track.

[Sgt.Gator]

Or run Water Wetter or Purple Ice. They have anti-corrosion in them too. But they won't work as anti-freeze, you have to add anti freeze in the winter. Both are available at any auto parts store.

[FFRSpec72]

BAD NEWS, I have a oil leak, looks like the oil cooler line. I need to find a new one ASAP as I have test & tune on Friday

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[Hindsight]

Doh, hope you can get it sorted quickly.

[FFRSpec72]

Found a 3" to 4" adapter so finished up my vents and intake to the intercooler

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