FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[Scargo]

Is that the CF splitter laying on the front? Best of luck with it.

[FFRSpec72]

Is that the CF splitter laying on the front? Best of luck with it.

Nope just the dash, the CF splitter is in a box.

[FFRSpec72]

So I can't believe how many initial parts are on back order, hopefully I will not be needing any of the fuel parts.

1. Koni Shocks (all 4)
2. Rivnuts
3. Turn Signal connector
4. Hot Rod Fuel Tank
5. Fuel Level Sender Connector
6. Fuel Pump Connector
7. Fuel Filler Neck
8. Ground Strap

[FFRSpec72]

Finished dolly and put the car on the dolly, nice to be able to move it around with the slightest of effort. While the fiberglass work has gotten better in 10 years it is not all that better, disappointed in the quality of the 818 body parts, love the idea that there are no seams and the panels are manageable, but the quality need to come up a notch

[FFRSpec72]

I had to finish up my Challenge car and break in the engine, and managed to get about 30 miles on the engine w/o any issues, no leaks, oil pressure was good, water temp was also good.

My daughter was home from college for the weekend before she heads to Hawaii for spring break. So she was able to help me for a few hours.

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Some of the front suspension is on, I'm missing shocks as they are backorder, the ride height for the R is somewhat hard to follow in the manual, I think I have it right even though FFR sells you an R it does not give you all the parts to make the R ride height line washers and longer UCA bolts. I used the inner most holes for the rear of the LCA mount and I used the upper hole for the front LCA.

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My 3 favorite tools for the day, the bolt gauge and the micrometer as most of the labels came off the bags of bolts and had to also measure spacers. The last is the ball joint wrench, as FFR has gotten better with the UCA and how the ball joints fit and man were they tight.

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The last is somehow the R from Subaru made it into my pats bin so I think it will make it on the car someplace now.

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[Santiago]

Sounds like a happy day all-told!

The way you mounted the front LCA bushing is correct for standard R ride height. The front's lower/outer holes are usually used for folks with wagon arms which are 10mm shorter. But my sense is that they figured nobody building an R would use those arms. To do so would mean you're out of luck matching the front of the LCA to the lowered ride height position...unless you got creative and broke out the welder.

Edit: Scratch that. Looks like you DO have the blocks for the rear bushing mount...

Best,
-j

[FFRSpec72]

Got to spend a few hours today. I finished up the steering rack, but seems a little odd. I have a 02 steering rack so it uses 2 flanges to mount but does not seem to be level. As you can see from the pics, its a little off

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I used the spacers on the left mount

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Here are the spaces on the right

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[Xusia]

As you probably know, you have the passenger side mounted incorrectly. The bracket goes underneath the frame mounting tab, not above it. So from top (of the pic) to bottom, the order should be OEM steering rack bracket, spacer, frame bracket, spacer, FFR supplied steering rack bracket. I hope that makes sense. If not, I can take a pic later.

[FFRSpec72]

As you probably know, you have the passenger side mounted incorrectly. The bracket goes underneath the frame mounting tab, not above it. So from top (of the pic) to bottom, the order should be OEM steering rack bracket, spacer, frame bracket, spacer, FFR supplied steering rack bracket. I hope that makes sense. If not, I can take a pic later.

Got it thanks, that makes sense now.

[FFRSpec72]

Had some time and got some help, finished the axels and made progress on rear suspension

RearSuspension.jpg

Not sure about the lateral links position for the R height, I used the upper holes on both lateral links as both are adjustable

RearLateralArmPosition.jpg

[C.Plavan]

You got it right. As long as the rear ones are adjustable, you can you use the top holes. When using the top holes, you cant use the stock bars since the toe adjustment bolts do not "catch" the provisions for adjustment. The forward lateral links do not have to be adjustable, so in theory you could sell them to another R owner so they could use them on the rear.

However, your trailing arms are on backwards it looks like. Easy mistake.

They should look like this-

[Scargo]

I'm curious about the Whiteline lateral links. Are they steel or aluminum? I think I've read that Whiteline has three durometers of urethane: red, yellow and black. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong (for color, in and of itself, means nothing).

Your bushings are their hard black (around 95A) or softer than the yellow (around 85-90A)?
Is anyone planning on using Delrin (acetal homopolymer) in the front lower arm?
Looking good BTW.

C.Plavan: But with these you can adjust camber, too!

[C.Plavan]

You will not need them for camber. You can get ridiculous (Way more than you will ever use) amount of camber with the supplied adjustable top link. I was surprised.

[FFRSpec72]

However, your trailing arms are on backwards it looks like. Easy mistake.

yea we questioned this when installing but looking at the picture on page 100 of the install and subsequent pictures we put them that way thinking the manual knew more than we did. Thanks will put them right.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm curious about the Whiteline lateral links. Are they steel or aluminum? I think I've read that Whiteline has three durometers of urethane: red, yellow and black. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong (for color, in and of itself, means nothing).

So thee are steel, they have the black hard rubber

[FFRSpec72]

Got a few more hours today (as I had to put some miles on the new challenge car short block before race season to make sure no issues). I installed the rear control links, I assume that with the R I use the upper holes in the mounts (as the manual did not say anything)? I also corrected the rear trailing arm direction since the FFR manual had it wrong in the picture.

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I went to install the rear Wilwood brakes and ran into a issue as the rotor hits the dust plate since the rotors are larger than stock

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Then upon careful reading there is one line in the Wilwood directions that say Dependent on application, OEM dust shields may need to be modified or removed to prevent interference with brake kit installation. So has anyone else had to drill out the spot welds to remove the rear dust shields ?

I also had a primary inspection on my cage for SPU and ITE classes, I'm sure glad I went with the JDM EJ207 v7 engine as I can run in the under 2 liter classes and don't have to be bothered with the BMW 3 series cars

[longislandwrx]

Yes I drilled/removed my dust shields... use a 1/8 drill bit and drill a 1/16 deep pilot hole. Then use a $5 harbor freight spot weld drill bit. both sides took 10 minutes.

as you are drilling the spot weld, pull back on the dust shield so you know right away when you drilled through the shield, (shield will pull loose)

[apexanimal]

forgive me if you've said this before... what lateral links do you have?

[Scargo]

I agree. Remove. On my fronts (on my STi track car) I repurposed the fronts and used part of them and 3" exhaust tubing to make my own cooling duct. Perhaps the rears could be used this way and reattached? Just musing. First, I have not looked at mine before saying this and will cooling be necessary in the rear?

[C.Plavan]

You will also have to grind and cut the caliper mount ears. There rear Wilwoods are a pain to install compared to the front calipers.

[FFRSpec72]

forgive me if you've said this before... what lateral links do you have?

I have the Whiteline adjustable lateral links, I have gone with Whiteline for all my bushings

[apexanimal]

thank you sir...

[longislandwrx]

Perhaps the rears could be used this way and reattached? Just musing.

There's not much to them, the backing plate covers most of it.

[FFRSpec72]

Wiring harness is coming along nicely, hope to have it back to me next week. Not using any of the steering column controls, the controls will be mounted on the 3/4" cross bar that the R has near the left hand side of dash (it is a motorcycle light/turn/horn control) as it is in easy reach of the driver. So this gives me plenty of knee room around the steering wheel. So only dash switches will be the ON toggle, push button start and the kill switch. Harness is getting the AVCS merged in also (for the JDM engine), ODBII port, all lights (head, tail, turn, license plate, brake, etc.) and factory ECU (JDM).

WireHarness-1.jpg WireHarness-2.jpgLightSwitch.jpg Dash.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

Selected my seat (based upon room and driver position), will be an UltraShield Rally Sport seat, has same base as the Spec Miata seat I run in my challenge car, this also comes in a 10 degree layback so I can squeeze a few more inches out in leg room, the seat has more upper body support than the Spec Miata seat. http://www.ultrashieldrace.com/catal...Sport-Seat/160

[Kurk818]

You are making great progress! Awesome job. I just started wiring myself. Will definitely have to get in contact with you at some point and come see it, if you dont mind.

[FFRSpec72]

You are making great progress! Awesome job. I just started wiring myself. Will definitely have to get in contact with you at some point and come see it, if you dont mind.

I'm the last person you want doing wiring as I did my challenge car, and after the first several years racing I was getting outages here and there (and that adds up when you pay to race and you go out with a DNS or DNF), so then replaced the harness with Mustang Medic's well sorted out harness and no issues. So I gave these requirements to Brian Keene @ iWire https://www.facebook.com/pages/IWire...15786161784988 and he is doing all the work since is a Subaru wiring expert (does various harness merges for engine swaps, etc.)

WireHarnessRequirements.jpg

[Kurk818]

I am familiar with iWire. I figured i would give the wiring a try since i'm more or less dieting the wiring of the components that i will not be using and extending/shorting as needed. When it comes to merging two systems or re-configuring, ill pay a pro. Its definitely overwhelming at some points tho.

[Sgt.Gator]

Looking at your wiring list, you might want more than 4 extra. Some that I will want:
CoolShirt pump on a switch, passenger floorboard.
Data Logger on the key.
Power for additional gauges like an AFR gauge, trans temp, diff temp. Switched power for trans, oil, diff cooler fans.
And it would be especially nice if he can build in the required racing kill switch connections.

[FFRSpec72]

Looking at your wiring list, you might want more than 4 extra. Some that I will want:
CoolShirt pump on a switch, passenger floorboard.
Data Logger on the key.
Power for additional gauges like an AFR gauge, trans temp, diff temp. Switched power for trans, oil, diff cooler fans.
And it would be especially nice if he can build in the required racing kill switch connections.

I have upgraded that 2 a total of 8 wire pairs, I also have 4 spare wire pairs in dash area (for data logger, etc.), so that gives me 4 in dash and 8 in engine, I know you can never have enough ! Thanks for reconfirming that adding 4 more was the right move. The kill switch is wired to meet SCCA, NASA and ICSCC rules and will not allow alternator feedback to keep engine running.

[Sgt.Gator]

That should be enough! I hope to see you at the May 9-10-11 races at the Ridge! My Subaru thunder wagon will hopefully be ready for ST class racing by then. I'd love a visit to your house to check out the 818R if you live relatively close by.
Edit: I see it's 98 miles from Kirkland to The Ridge, better wait for a race at Pacific Raceways for that house call....

[FFRSpec72]

That should be enough! I hope to see you at the May 9-10-11 races at the Ridge! My Subaru thunder wagon will hopefully be ready for ST class racing by then. I'd love a visit to your house to check out the 818R if you live relatively close by.
Edit: I see it's 98 miles from Kirkland to The Ridge, better wait for a race at Pacific Raceways for that house call....

Looks like we will be in the same run group (4) as I run ITE with my Challenge car. I will miss the opener at Portland and also the Ridge, I will be in Spokane for the triple race weekend. So if you make it to the Pacific raceway you can drop over as I'm about 40 min away.

[FFRSpec72]

Seat ordered, a Ultrashield Rally Sport 10 degree layback. Also ordered NRG steering wheel and hub assemble (Quick Release = Black (SRK-650BK), Short HUB = (SRK-100H), Steering Wheel = (ST-012R))

[FFRSpec72]

Made a little progress, rear calipers took longer that I thought but rear brakes on and centered, also built the power steering loop for the rack

PowerSteeringLoop.jpg RearCalipersRotors.jpg RightRearBrake.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

iWire has finished my wire harness, see http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Wiring-Harness so will do the preliminary install.

[FFRSpec72]

My alternator bracket came in, so now I can get rid of that stock bulky bracket. Part number 11711AA051 (RS alternator bracket) about $22

AlternatorBracket1.jpg AlternatorBracket.jpg

[tmoretta]

Do you happen to know the size of fittings required to build the power steering loop?

[FFRSpec72]

Do you happen to know the size of fittings required to build the power steering loop?

I believe that rack uses 2 sizes, 14mm x 1.5 and 16mm x 1.5 I will verify tonight what the loop uses

[Doowop]

Tony, I haven't raced SCCA in a few years and never NASA, but I thought the seats needed to be FIA rated?

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, I haven't raced SCCA in a few years and never NASA, but I thought the seats needed to be FIA rated?

You do not HAVE to run an FIA seat. If you do have an FIA seat, it must be mounted according to the FIA's rules, and it does not need a back brace if it is either not on sliders or if it is on FIA sliders. If you have a non-FIA seat you must have a seat back brace no matter what. NASA enforces the FIA re-cerirtification on FIA seats (FIA seats more than five years old must be re-certified or run a SBB no matter what), while the SCCA is not enforcing the FIA re-certification that I have been aware of. So will have to figure out a back brace for seat, which should not be hard as I did this for my challenge car.

The Ultrashield seats are not seats I want to run a 48 hour enduro in, but the are the best seat for confined space such as the Challenge car and 818.