FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[Zach34]

Thanks for sharing this. Does the taper fit perfectly snug in the spindle? It doesn't look like it is all the way in. That is what I was concerned about because the 7 degree angle matches the subaru, but the top and bottom diameters do not so while it might fight snugly in there, it doesn't go all the way in. I *guess* that might not be a problem.....

Yes, it's a good fit. I agree it looks like it's not all the way through, but it looks/feels like the correct taper and there are just enough threads to fully engage the locknut. I don't think it's a problem. You want to clamp on the taper so there is no play. If the bottom hex sat flush against the bottom of the spindle arm, the taper might not fit tight enough and it might be more difficult to remove since there's nowhere to stick a pickle fork.

All that said, I'm not sure it's long enough to eliminate the bump steer, but it's already so long, I feel like it'd be smart to add some structure to the spindle. Since I have more time than money right now (and I have very little time), I might go ahead and do something like that. The problem with fabricating something, like Mechie points out, is it probably needs to be hardened to some standard spec. Grade 5 would probably be fine. The risk of the torch/oil at home would be making it too brittle and having it crack.

[Zach34]

So what is the length of the thread on the Baer rod end and the length of the sleeve that they provide ?

Upon further inspection, the thread engagement might be okay, but I have no idea really since I've only eye-balled the toe for when I had to move earlier this year. The rod-end has 1.75" long threads, and the sleeve is 4" long. I had about 5/8" engagement on each end, which I think is probably good. Who knows if that would hold after a real alignment.

Annoyingly, both the rod ends and both ends of the sleeve are right hand thread, so you have to disconnect the rod end to adjust. Might be all the excuse I need to swap out the rod end and sleeve.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Upon further inspection, the thread engagement might be okay, but I have no idea really since I've only eye-balled the toe for when I had to move earlier this year. The rod-end has 1.75" long threads, and the sleeve is 4" long. I had about 5/8" engagement on each end, which I think is probably good. Who knows if that would hold after a real alignment.

Annoyingly, both the rod ends and both ends of the sleeve are right hand thread, so you have to disconnect the rod end to adjust. Might be all the excuse I need to swap out the rod end and sleeve.

They adjust the same as a regular Subaru.

[FFRSpec72]

They adjust the same as a regular Subaru.

So are the Subaru steering rod ends RH or LH threads, I assume they are both the same ?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

So are the Subaru steering rod ends RH or LH threads, I assume they are both the same ?

The Subaru tie rod ends only have one right hand thread. You loosen on nut and rotate the rod that goes into the rack.
You can do the same with the Baer kit.

rack.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

So when I was at SEMA I talked to Baer and they sell just the 5/8 to 14mm sleeves, so I bought a set and will build my own bump steer so I don't have to drill out the spindles.

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[DSR-3]

I'm going the same route. Racecraft sells 3.5" and 5.5" long sleeves too.RC21716%20copy.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

I'm going the same route. Racecraft sells 3.5" and 5.5" long sleeves too.

You then have to find 14mm rod end and a stud to match, so I'm going with a 5/8 rod end stud from SpeedWay and then two 5/8 rod ends (long) and use the sleeves from Baer to go from 5/8 to 14mm

[DSR-3]

? The racecraft parts are also 14mm x 5/8-18.

[FFRSpec72]

? The racecraft parts are also 14mm x 5/8-18.

Sorry, a failure to read correctly

[FFRSpec72]

Here is my bump steer kit, no modification to spindles

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[longislandwrx]

awesome. did you get the pinto bolts? I'm running S height now, but id love to not have to change any parts when I drop down to R, if I can just replace the bolt, that would be nice.

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[FFRSpec72]

awesome. did you get the pinto bolts? I'm running S height now, but id love to not have to change any parts when I drop down to R, if I can just replace the bolt, that would be nice.

WP_20140423_004.jpg

5/8 " Pinto studs, 14mm RH to 5/8 inch LH sleeves, 5/8" rod ends with 5/8 LH tread, so these are adjustable by turning sleeve in like the other kits, so you should be set to go with longer studs

[longislandwrx]

where did you get your 5/8 spacers from?

[FFRSpec72]

where did you get your 5/8 spacers from?

From Speedway when I bought the pinto style 5/8" studs

[Frank818]

Is that bump kit adjustable (spacers) and does it cost less than Baer's?

[FFRSpec72]

Is that bump kit adjustable (spacers) and does it cost less than Baer's?

Has about 2.5" of adjustment, costs about $47 for studs and spacers, $62 for the sleeves and $74 for the rod ends, so about $174 including shipping (that may vary depending on where you live but I had all shipped USPS), so same price as Baer but no drilling, no additional bolts (Baer stud is too short so you have to buy something and spacers), and can adjust via the sleeve as the Baer has all RH threads thus a pain to adjust. So this will be about $40 cheaper in the end.

[Hindsight]

Nice setup Tony! I like it better than the route I took. I hope it works well for you on the track.

[FFRSpec72]

The last part I need to complete my front end rework to fix the camber, slotted spindle adapters will push the top closer to the ball joint and give me the camber I need. So with this and the bump steer I should be all set

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[Frank818]

Sounds like a nice bumpsteer kit.

Here? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/

[FFRSpec72]

Sounds like a nice bumpsteer kit.

Here? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/

Here are the parts I sourced out to get a bump steer kit that would work, height wise and ajustable

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...=91636055PINTO
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search...+Inch+x+1+Inch
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_ in_description=0&keyword=RC21083&x=21&y=8
http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...earch=J0041201

[Frank818]

Awesome tnx!

[STiPWRD]

Thanks for posting all the links! You've probably mentioned this before but what's your target ride height and plan for selecting the correct rod spacer?

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks for posting all the links! You've probably mentioned this before but what's your target ride height and plan for selecting the correct rod spacer?

My current ride height is 3.25 front and 3.75 rear, I will keet that height, but I am on the S ride height holes in front, I will change to R ride height holes once I mount the new slotted spindle adapters as the will push the top of the wheel inwards and that will resolve my tire and fender rubbing issue. I have a bump steer measuring guage (Longacre) and a mock up the bump steer puts be at about 2.25" of spacers on the S ride height, will have to measure one I have everything in pace

[STiPWRD]

My current ride height is 3.25 front and 3.75 rear, I will keet that height, but I am on the S ride height holes in front, I will change to R ride height holes once I mount the new slotted spindle adapters as the will push the top of the wheel inwards and that will resolve my tire and fender rubbing issue. I have a bump steer measuring guage (Longacre) and a mock up the bump steer puts be at about 2.25" of spacers on the S ride height, will have to measure one I have everything in pace

Thanks, is it a 1-to-1 relationship between ride height and spacers? For instance, if I'm using the S holes with 4.5" ride height, would that mean I need 1" spacers? Or is it more complicated than that?

[FFRSpec72]

Thanks, is it a 1-to-1 relationship between ride height and spacers? For instance, if I'm using the S holes with 4.5" ride height, would that mean I need 1" spacers? Or is it more complicated than that?

More complicated, as the Lower Control Arm (LCA) and the tie rod shafts must move in parallel as much as they can, so you have to measure the movement when LCA moves up and down, so basically the gauge measures this as you move the wheel up and down (I usually remove spring to I can compress and decompress the LCA).

[Hindsight]

The slotting on those spindle brackets looks perfect... how did you manage that Tony?

[RetroRacing]

Nice set up Tony!!

[FFRSpec72]

The slotting on those spindle brackets looks perfect... how did you manage that Tony?

Compliments of Factory Five Racing

[Hindsight]

Wow very cool!

[FFRSpec72]

Update on the bump steer and spindle adapters, both are installed, I did take the rod end studs to a machine shop to mill off a slight amount as the angle/taper was not exact, but it will work, I just wanted to be 100% sure I don't have issues on the track. Also I used the 5.5" sleeves and the 3.5" may be better, so I updated the links to the 3.5.

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[Mitch Wright]

Looks great Tony, it is interesting to see the difference to achive the similar results.
IMG_0109.JPGLH IMG_0110.JPGRH

[FFRSpec72]

Looks great Tony, it is interesting to see the difference to active the similar results.
IMG_0109.JPGLH IMG_0110.JPGRH

Yes, I have a 3/4" spacer at the bottom so I have another 1/2" I can go down if needed. I have yet to see how much Camber I can get now with the new spindle adapters. I just traded in my old scales for a set of new Longacre pro scales with scale turn-in plates so will be interesting how these will work.

Its interesting that you have different lengths on each side

[Mitch Wright]

Thats where it was happiest. Ride height, camber and caster all can make a difference. I bought turn-in plates a few years ago, use greased plates of steel for years. Sure speeds up the process.

[Hindsight]

I bought turn-in plates a few years ago, use greased plates of steel for years. Sure speeds up the process.

I really want a set of turn plates that have an angle gauge on them. It would make checking caster SO much easier but I just can't stomach the price for a decent set of plates (or corner scales). Stuff is SO expensive and used infrequently.

[FFRSpec72]

I really want a set of turn plates that have an angle gauge on them. It would make checking caster SO much easier but I just can't stomach the price for a decent set of plates (or corner scales). Stuff is SO expensive and used infrequently.

I know but with a couple of race cars it becomes a must to have, my turn plates fit under the scales so I can do all my alignment on the scales

[Mitch Wright]

Hindsight get yourself a 4 of 12"X12" 3/16 steel or aluminum plate add some grease between the plates and you are good to go.
If you end up doing a lot of aliginments get some trick tables, only took me 38 years of a lot of tinkering with set ups to break down and buy a set.

[FFRSpec72]

Here is what I got for turn plates now http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...ders%e2%84%a2+

[Scargo]

Don't laugh, but I use Masonite with sheets of waxed paper sandwiched in-between. I jiggle the car a bit to make sure they have slipped and the car settled. I find it to be fairly accurate. I also oiled the Masonite but I'm not sure it's necessary or has helped.
I've also made my own angleometer... you know, the camber-caster gauges... with my own bracket, bungee cords and a Stanley FatMax 10" digital level, with laser (also sold as Hammerhead by Walmart and Ebay for $50). I also use a Bosch torpedo laser level, strings and so-on to align for toe.

[Mitch Wright]

No laughing here I stated out using glue down floor tiles from Lowes or Home Depot that are .50-.60 cents each and make a grease sandwich. They also work great as scale pad shims.
I like the Longacre Pads Tony, are they a pretty new product?
I bought these from a buddy that works at a tool supply house https://www.shopequipmentparts.com/a...ee-in-the-usa/ you can find cheaper options on Amazon for example which think would be fine and work great in a home shop. I have used these at friends shop and they worked great. https://www.amazon.com/Rand-Alignmen...ignment+plates