FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[longislandwrx]

here's a picture

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sorry to blind you with the knee, I don't get outside enough

[FFRSpec72]

here's a picture

sorry to blind you with the knee, I don't get outside enough

Jeff, thanks much, I understand now how it all fits and what I need to do.

[FFRSpec72]

I started to secure the brake lines, I did not like the FFR provided line tie downs so I bought these brake line tie downs and dipped them in plasti-dip so as to cushion the line. These holder are screwed in like my panels (1/8 hole with M4 tap and M4 screw)

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[Frank818]

Rivets aren't good for the brake lines tie downs?

[FFRSpec72]

Rivets aren't good for the brake lines tie downs?

Just a personal preference, I'm trying to stay away from rivets on anything I think I might have to adjust or remove

[FFRSpec72]

I had some more time yesterday, I ran the shift cables and hooked up the cables to transmission

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I mounted the radiator and stock fans (I have to cut costs and did not buy the add-on fans) and hit 2 problems (1) the bolt that holds the steering rack in hits the bolt for the radiator frame (2) I have 2 different plugs for the fans but harness has only on type of plug (like the black connector). Looks like somehow have an 02 4 wire fan and also a 06+ 3 wire fan, now to find another 02 fan assembly
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And I ran the clutch line down the center console

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[FFRSpec72]

Had some time today so ran the cooling tubes (had to modify my anti-intrusion panels for allow for the tubes), Started to mock up the dead pedal on both drivers and passengers side.

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I also ran the electrical harness

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I also installed the safety harness eye hook mounts

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[Santiago]

Tony, on your anti-intrusion panel, it looks like you've only got 9-10 bolts securing it to the side. Is it welded elsewhere and/or do you have plans to add more attachment points?

In the back of my head I have this vague recollection of reading a regulation (from NASCAR?) that anti-intrusion panels should be fully welded in. I don't think that's necessary, but I get the concern that a panel isn't much good if it gets dislodged in a collision. It's almost comical to see some kid in the tuner scene tape on foam to their door bars (no joke, I have a pic of this somewhere). Anyway, just throwing it out there to get your thoughts on securing the anti-intrusion panels. FWIW, I'll also be bolting mine in, but I had thought to use more points (esp. at the top, where I'll weld in tabs for the job).

Best,
-j

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, on your anti-intrusion panel, it looks like you've only got 9-10 bolts securing it to the side. Is it welded elsewhere and/or do you have plans to add more attachment points?
-j

Right now I have it bolted on, the rules state that you can bolt it on 1/4" bolts as the largest size bolts, I have about 8 bolts per panel now, will increase that once I'm sure I have everything right (I'm only bolting to the 2x2 cross members at this time). On my challenge car I have my panels welded, I want to go with bolts this time as there have been occasions where I needed to get to things and if it was bolted it would have been easier.

[longislandwrx]

Tony, did your harness come with the eye bolts? mine did not. I am trying to find a good source for eyes/clips.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, did your harness come with the eye bolts? mine did not. I am trying to find a good source for eyes/clips.

There is not much room and its a pain to get to so I went with the eye bolts (G-Force 109H 1/2" 20mm Eyebolt with Nut and Washer) from Amazon for like $6 each, these are compact (length and size of eye) and fit and allow room to attach and detach. When I order my harness in 2015 I will order it with the clip-in plates (like $2.50 each). I use Ultra Shield Racing harness, as I get mine re-webbed every 2 year to stay compliant with the rules and the re web is cheaper than buying all new harness hardware very 2 years.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah I'm just doing mockup with some old RCI harnesses I have. That's perfect, i'll add a few to my next amazon order.

I also found this:

http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Racing...=Simpson+31020

[C.Plavan]

There is not much room and its a pain to get to so I went with the eye bolts (G-Force 109H 1/2" 20mm Eyebolt with Nut and Washer) from Amazon for like $6 each, these are compact (length and size of eye) and fit and allow room to attach and detach. When I order my harness in 2015 I will order it with the clip-in plates (like $2.50 each). I use Ultra Shield Racing harness, as I get mine re-webbed every 2 year to stay compliant with the rules and the re web is cheaper than buying all new harness hardware very 2 years.

Just buy a FIA harness not SFI. FIA are good for 5 years.

[FFRSpec72]

Not much time this week with travel and SEMA this week, so I started to finish up the wiring in the rear/engine area of the car. Using some clips to hold the wires, I can run the wires under the supports where it makes sense.

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[Scargo]

Oh, that is so slick/so clean!
I guess you are drilling 3/16" or 1/4" holes for the clips? There is so much sleeving and heat shrink out there to do a beautiful job with that it is crazy to use tape.

[FFRSpec72]

Oh, that is so slick/so clean!
I guess you are drilling 3/16" or 1/4" holes for the clips? There is so much sleeving and heat shrink out there to do a beautiful job with that it is crazy to use tape.

Yes drilling the hole, I don't like doing this so do it with caution, but the clips work nicely and allow me to tuck the wire where I want

[FFRSpec72]

I finished up the rear area wiring

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Also placed the ECU and ran the main harness down the center console

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[JeromeS13]

The clamp location in your first picture will interfere with the rear bumper.

[FFRSpec72]

The clamp location in your first picture will interfere with the rear bumper.

My initial test fit of the body seemed to fit fine, I will keep an eye out for this, thanks

[Mechie3]

On my car that trans mount interfered with the body and held it downwards. This could be providing extra clearance for the clips which is why you might not have seen any issues.

[FFRSpec72]

Work/travel has slowed me down again, I did get a chance to spend yesterday. I got the cockpit wired (fuse boxes mounted, dash wires routed) and the rear wiring got some additional attention from the Boeing folks who don't like any play in the wire looms/holders so they made sure there was no movement/chafing, this the orange tape at each loom/holder)


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Also got a chance to run some of the front brake lines (SS ones off the calipers)

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[FFRSpec72]

I went to install the throttle cable and I followed the update that came out in manual "i" revision and then realized that I never got the washer and nut to hold the cable in the firewall, so I called FFR and was told that I would have to pay for them as they never supplied any with earlier builds, even though the base manual says that it comes with a nut (with a slot cut in it for the cable).

[Jaime]

I found that to be a nightmare to install - the threads on mine wouldn't line up with the mouth open. I ended up cutting a slot in a 1/4-20 nut and it worked much better than the split nut.

[FFRSpec72]

I found a few hours and the wasted them trying to bleed the clutch and no go, no idea will try some suggestion folks posted.

I did get the fuel lines hooked up and grommets around fuel lines. I also blocked off the evaporator nipple with a metric plug.

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I also finished running the wire harness in the front of the car (still have to tidy it up a bit, but it all fits), I used a 1-3/4 grommet on the firewall (no fun fitting all the connectors through this grommet).

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I also hooked up the gas pedal and got that working, and then wasted more time on trying to bleed the clutch.

[iWire]

Looks great!

[Sgt.Gator]

Hi Tony. When I swapped in my 6 speed I had a clutch bleeding problem too. The simple fix was to unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny, hold it at a 45 degree angle so the bleed screw is at the highest point, either clamp or use finger strength to hold the piston in the cylinder, very slightly crack the bleed screw, then have a helper do the pump clutch pedal >bleed> tighten> release pedal series just like a brake job. I'll post up the Official Subaru directions below. But note the instructions say to use a clamp to hold the piston. I tried a bunch of different clamps, they kept slipping off. Then I discovered my thumb was plenty strong enough! The trick is to slightly crack the bleed screw before your helper pumps the pedal. Since there is little pressure on the piston because the air and fluid are going out the bleed screw your thumb is strong enough to hold the piston.

If you want the Subaru Manual that has the pictures that go with the below instructions PM me with your email and I'll send it to you, or anyone else here.

2. TURBO MODEL
NOTE:
Bleed air from the oil line with help of a co-worker.
1) Remove the operating cylinder.
NOTE:
Do not remove the clutch hose.

2) Fix the piston with clamp to avoid the piston from jumping out.

3) Fit one end of a vinyl tube into the air bleeder of operating cylinder and put the other end into a brake fluid container.

4) Slowly depress the clutch pedal and keep it depressed. Then open the air bleeder to discharge air together with the fluid. Release the air bleeder for 1 or 2 seconds. Next,with the bleeder closed, slowly release the clutch pedal.
NOTE:
Set the air breather screw part higher than tip of operating cylinder when performing this procedure.

5) Repeat these steps until there are no more air bubbles in the vinyl tube.
CAUTION:
Cover the bleeder with waste cloth when loosening it, to prevent brake fluid from being splashed over surrounding parts.

6) Tighten the air bleeder.
Tightening torque: 8 N·m (0.8 kgf-m, 5.8 ft-lb)

7) Install the operating cylinder.
Tightening torque:
5MT model: 37 N·m (3.8 kgf-m, 27.5 ft-lb)

6MT model: 41 N·m (4.2 kgf-m, 30.2 ft-lb)

8) After depressing the clutch pedal, make sure that there are no leaks evident in the entire system.

9) After bleeding air from the system, ensure that clutch operates properly.

[FFRSpec72]

I removed the clevis from the clutch pedal and pumped by hand, I also had the slave piston clamped down, so I have about half a pedal now, so I think there is still air in there or there is something wrong with the clutch rod at the pedal (just using stock/donor rod). I will try to remove slave and point it up and see if I can get some more air out of it. Thanks for posting.

[metalmaker12]

If your getting a pedal and it is staying there than you have air. It is when you get a pedal and loose that pressure that there is an issue.

[nuisance]

Tony, when I installed my clutch, I did everything I could think of, including Sarge's tricks above, and with a pressure bleeder, and still had half a pedal, and no bubbles. I then started feeling the linkage myself, and decided it wasn't right. I pulled the fork out, and found that the throwout bearing wasn't fully snapped into the fingers (my first time with a pull type throwout bearing). When I snapped it in then everything was good. I did not need to pull the tranny to do this.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, when I installed my clutch, I did everything I could think of, including Sarge's tricks above, and with a pressure bleeder, and still had half a pedal, and no bubbles. I then started feeling the linkage myself, and decided it wasn't right. I pulled the fork out, and found that the throwout bearing wasn't fully snapped into the fingers (my first time with a pull type throwout bearing). When I snapped it in then everything was good. I did not need to pull the tranny to do this.

So do I pull off the fork boot and look inside ? I don't think that I could get the fork out as I had a hard time to change the throw out bearing as it was (maybe it was just the throw out bearing that had an issue). So I imagine I take off starter, remove hex bolt and then take out that fork shaft and pull the fork out and then see if the TOB is set in the clutch fingers correctly and then reassemble ?

[nuisance]

Take the fork boot off. Now I can't remember if the fork came out, or if I just stuck a lever in there and pushed the TOB forward. The throwout bearing should be snapped into the clutch fingers. You should not be able to slide it rearward at all.

[FFRSpec72]

Had a few hours to spend over the long weekend, I did not make any real progress on the clutch problem, will leave that for another day

I did get the shifter mounted and console mocked up to make sure all would fit and align, I have not attached the shift linkage and adjusted it as I was missing the nuts that go to the ends of the cables

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I also got the ECU mounted based upon the where the fuel cell, console and wiring are routed

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I also fixed the steering rack and was able to tighten it up (as wrong bracket and instructions came with the car), the bracket no longer is in contact with the steering rack, so no metal on metal, and I can now tighten the nuts on the bracket.

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[FFRSpec72]

Not much time as I had to clean the garage and also install new carpet in the F150 (not a fun task).

I got the dead pedals fabricated (not mounted to floor or side yet, so once that is done they will sung up and have no gaps), thanks longislandwrx.

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[FFRSpec72]

So going a little high tech (more than the Challenge car), I went to the research area here at work and got a direct sunlight display (7" prototype tablet), this will hook up to my new Race Capture Mk2 (that just arrived), so I will have ODBII input and also separate sensor input all delivered to tablet over Bluetooth from the Race Capture MK2 (also will be able to stream live data via data plan). Tablet will be mounted on steering column in front of the dash (but can still see dash, will use the tabs that teh stock steering column has now), so I will be able to control the GoPro 4 from here also. With the new MyLaps X2 interface I can also feed in exact lap times as recorded.

[FFRSpec72]

Got to spend z few hours tonight so got the console figured out on how I want to mount it and where it will reside.

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[Frank818]

Tony, I'm surprised about the alu plate at the top of the dash support (the highest point of the console). That did not come from FFR, right?

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, I'm surprised about the alu plate at the top of the dash support (the highest point of the console). That did not come from FFR, right?

No, that was added as a mount point (.063 aluminum) , it fits in under the plastic dash, it will most likely go under the 3/4" bar (as opposed to the top as in the picture) so the plastic dash underside lip sits on top (and can be attached to the mount and be used as dash support as at the same time provide mount support for the console) The console will be screwed in along the sides and at the mount point so it can be removed.

[FFRSpec72]

Found a little time today, installed the ebrake, made a mounting plate out of 10 gauge steel, used the stock cable mount for now, will change that out since I have moved the firewall back and the stock one no longer fits

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I also mounted the under the seat anti-intrusion plates and mounted the sliders and seat with grade 8 bolts. The seat now fits me and my daughter with about 8" of travel, I pass the height test with my helmet on, my helmet is right at the height of the back of the seat. The seat is a tight fit not much room on each side of the sliders.

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I also mounted the OBDII connector, I bought ODBII octopus so I can connect the data logger and also have the connector for ecu updates etc.

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I also installed the Data Capture Mk2

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[FFRSpec72]

Here are a few pics of the console and seat

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I also mounted the and hooked up the fuel cell

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

I also installed the Data Capture Mk2

Hi Tony,
Does the MK2 support the SSM protocol that comes out of our ECU's?
On the website, it talks about newer CANbus ECU's
Bob