Ray's hotrod

[rcotner]

Here are some shots of the air filter system, not sure what to do yet about mods to get inside of the hood. I found a Ford adaptor to allow the oil filter to remain in place, it should arrive today, if you look at the Hot Rod project car they have their oil filter in the stock location but canted up.
Attachment 29077Attachment 29078Attachment 29079

Don, I really appreciate the info you share! May I ask how you came by your air filter system. I assume you either made it yourself or had it fabricated. Do you by any chance have a part number or drawing for it?

[donshapansky]

That's from Ford Racing I think it is part of the SCJ intake, mine was backordered for months and just came in to the dealership last week. I will get the part no.

[rcotner]

Looks like the is it?

m-9603-m50cj

m-9603-m50cj.jpg

[donshapansky]

Yes that is it, I solved the oil filter deal today without using a remote mount, I was not at peace with where or how to mount the filter. So here are some pictures, the Ford Racing Part No M-6880-M22 is no longer available but I found one in Houston, it is a swivel 90 degree mount and I found a very short filter by WIX 51335. The next thing was the oil pressure sender had to mounted on angle using a 45 degree elbow worked and you see how close everything is but filter comes off easily.
Ford Racing P. No. M-6880-M22.JPGOil Filter and Oil Pressure Sender.JPGOil filter Wix 51335.JPG

[donshapansky]

I forgot a couple of things, I have the raised hood on order but it has not arrived yet. I'm having driveshaft issues, the AODE must be different after 2 tries I'm going to have one shortened, apparently the HOT ROD project had the same problem.
Now it's on with A/C installation and it looks like a lot of fabrication on the hose side of things, fortunately there is a great shop in Fort Worth that can make anything. I have to make drawings and measurements that probably won't all work on the first stab. I'm having trouble with the condenser mounting brackets they are not close in terms of the needed fit to get the hood hinges to work. Maybe Tim has some ideas?

[rcotner]

I dropped my drive shaft off at a local driveline shop here in Portland. Mine was long by about 5/8". Sounds like this is a very common problem. Simple enough to fix I guess.

I was wondering where you mounted your PCU. Inside on the firewall or elsewhere?

[donshapansky]

The engine module I installed under the engine, there was a bracket provided in the Coyote package from FFR, bolted on easily and looks fine, my Boss unit is mounted to right of the radiator. You are limited by the harness as to how far away it can be from the engine, considering the MAF sensor plug, the cooling fan wiring etc. I opted to go with the bracket, the oil pan has the studs in place, all you do is add the locknuts provided.

[rcotner]

Wow it has been forever since I posted. We moved across town to be closer to our kids and grandkids. I got a much bigger garage out of it and have started working on the car again. I am almost a year in and am finally close to getting the engine started. All that is left is to wire the battery, relay, starter and computer. A lot really for a beginner. Here are a few pics to document my progress so far:

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My new shop is 20x20 and high enough ceilings to accommodate a lift. If I make this a lifelong hobby I want a lift for sure. I really like the Lokar shift but it is pretty tall and first gear is very close to the steering wheel. I hope to have her started in a couple weeks then can move to some the non-drive train stuff.

[jayguy]

Great looking build, and I like the new space!

Is that a Laguna Seca sitting in front of your '33? I'm jealous twice!

Make that 3 times, the shop, the '33, and the Mustang. My '07 GT isn't quite as nice.

[donshapansky]

I'm getting close to start-up but for arranging my wiring harnesses, connecting the A/C electrical, finishing up the E-Brake and a bunch of other stuff. In Texas my shop A/C took a dive and I've been travelling on business so no progress for it seems 2 months. But I'm going to get in earnest late September after my next trip for vacation this time to TN Here are a couple of shots of the hornet's nest, I have not decided yet where to mount the fuse panel.Trans cover 2.JPGTrans Cover.JPG

[rcotner]

Great looking build, and I like the new space!

Is that a Laguna Seca sitting in front of your '33? I'm jealous twice!

Make that 3 times, the shop, the '33, and the Mustang. My '07 GT isn't quite as nice.

Yep, that is my laguna seca. That pic was just a feeble attempt at car art. Yes, I consider myself very lucky!

[rcotner]

By the way jayguy, any mustang, especially one with GT in its name is awesome!!

[jayguy]

[rcotner]

Time for my quarterly update. The aluminator lives! I will post the video of the first start after I figure out how to compress it to a size that is postable. It is hellatious sounding motor. I can't wait to take it for a spin. With the mechanical stuff essentially done I am on to mounting the body. It has been just over a year since I got my kit. I think that puts me roughly on schedule. I figured it would take me two years. That seems about right.

hotrod 12 '14 small.jpg

[erlihemi]

That is freakin awesome!! congrats on the milestone.

[wallace18]

Awesome job so far!

[maczter]

Post it to youtube and send us a link!

[rcotner]

Post it to youtube and send us a link!

Good idea, here you go....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMkyAKJ9Duk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AUfNYt_fSo

[maczter]

HOLY CRAP does that sound mean! Hope to have mine running in the next week or so. Nice work!

[donshapansky]

That looks and sounds exciting, I'm getting close too although I have a lot more systems to integrate such as A/C, AODE 4R70W with electronic shift module that has be interfaced with the engine. It's great to see how it looks and sounds! I'm hoping for early in the new year after I get back from Barrett Jackson in mid JanuaryDSCN0644.JPG
Any ideas as how you are going to modify the intake? I like what I saw on the Ecoboost side mounted intake at the SEMA intro as a crate motor.

[rcotner]

Well, at this point I don't plan to change the intake. I have always intended to not install the hood and side panels. Obviously if I change my mind in the future I will need to do something though. I would like to see what you come up with!!

[donshapansky]

I managed a first start on New Years Day and it sounds great, I went with Flow Master mufflers. I had a break in the fuel power wire (harness) I didn't want to remove all the transmission covers so I made a jumper to bypass the break. I used the steel fuel lines supplied and have leaks at the flares so I'm starting over with AN fuel fittings and stainless lines. So after Barrett Jackson I'll get serious about completing the mechanical issues and start on the body.

[rcotner]

Congrats on the start. Feels good huh? My fuel system is tight but I have an oil leak at one of my AN fittings and an exhaust leak at the collector to deal with. You might want to check out my thread on alternator issues. Ford recommends a different way to route the 12v signal to the ignition terminal on the alternator. Again, congrats!!!

[donshapansky]

Thanks Ray, I had all the gauges connected on a temporary mount, the alternator works great, I'm getting 14 volts + just above idle. It was so good to get a start on the first try!

[donshapansky]

I'm at Barrett Jackson and found a couple of interesting items. Roush is developing a fuel injection system from Borla that will have the look of 8 stacks with a closed loop system not using the ECM, locking the cams in a set position they estimate $3500 - $4,000. The next item was on a Cobra with the Coyote equipped with SCJ intake they used a metal intake reversed to the right shortened to fit within the confines of the engine bay. I could envision the side mounted scoop shown on the Ecoboost '33 connected to the side panel. We'll see what I can work out. It appears K & N uses metal plenums on a few of their filter kits for the Coyote that could be used if one can buy just the metal tube portion, that would offer a mount for the Mass Air Flow Sensor, PCV intake etc.

[rcotner]

Don, that sounds pretty cool. Send pictures when you have something to show. My '33 is at a local tuner to try and get the tune right. The engine builder who sold me the Aluminator also sold me a tune (from SCT) that was supposed to be good enough to get me to a dyno. It is turning out be quite the fiasco to get the tune right. In retrospect I wish I had started with the stock coyote tune that came with the controls pack but I trusted the engine guy who has a very good reputation in the local mustang world. The tuner is going to have to build the tune from scratch to get my engine to run right. I hope you have better luck!!

[H R Lucky]

Congrats on the start. Feels good huh? My fuel system is tight but I have an oil leak at one of my AN fittings and an exhaust leak at the collector to deal with. You might want to check out my thread on alternator issues. Ford recommends a different way to route the 12v signal to the ignition terminal on the alternator. Again, congrats!!!

Ray,
What sort of problem did you have with the 12v signal to the ignition terminal on the Alternator?
I looked back in your build thread and couldn't find alternator issues.

thanks,
Nevin

[rcotner]

Nevin,

When I put the honda alternator on and ran the yellow VBAT mon wire from the engine harness to IG pin on the alternator I was not able to get any reasonable voltage increase when the engine was running (~12.3v). When I measured the VBAT wire with the engine going I essentially got 0v when I was expecting 12. After talking to a couple guys as Ford I came away with the impression that the voltage on that line is variable and controlled by the PCU. Their recommendation was to run a 12v signal off of the ignition switch which I did. I now get the requisite 14v at the battery. It seems that I am the only one to come across this problem. I really hope there is nothing wrong with the Coyote harness or other control systems.

[H R Lucky]

Thanks for the info Ray, I haven't hooked mine up yet but my Coyote harness does have a connector for the alternator, I will definitely check that when the time comes.

thanks,
Nevin

[rcotner]

Even better than go karting the frame is seeing it on a dyno!! Aluminator XS makes 406 rwhp. Should be about 20 more when finished which will put it in spec with ford racing marketing (500+ at the crank). The poor guy doing the tuning has to wear a respirator due to the fiberglass pouring out of the exhaust. This is after 3 days of tuning and multiple pulls. He is the biggest tuning shop in Portland and he says he has never seen so much glass coming from new mufflers! It is a real mess. Other than that the car runs great after a lot of tuning. Enjoy the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juz6...ature=youtu.be

[rcotner]

Final pull on the dyno yielded 425 wheel HP. That puts it at about 510 to 520 at the crank meeting fords 500+ spec for the motor. According to the tuner the tune is "safe". I could get more out of it by leaning out the fuel/air mix and advancing the timing but I think the term "safe" is relative here. 425 rwHP on a 2200 pound car built by a rookie is probably questionably safe . I did the go kart thing over the weekend. No video but I gotta say driving that frame around the neighborhood was one the funnest things ever.

[donshapansky]

I have a 2013 Boss 302 that has been to Hennessey for the HPE 490 mod that has long tube headers, high flow cats, new intake filter, key fob operated cutouts for the side exhaust pipes and of course a Hennessey tune. The result was a dyno sheet that shows 494 hp at the crank and 435 hp at the rear wheels. I wonder why the variables in the numbers between your dyno results and mine. I track the car and it sure runs a lot harder than before the mod. I have video that shows me lapping an M3 BMWBoss on trailer 1.JPGBoss on trailer 2.JPG in 8 laps on a 1.3 mile course then I catch a new Viper and he tries to hard to stay ahead and spins right in front of me!

[rcotner]

Don, I am guessing at the crank number based on about 20% loss through the drive train. It is entirely possible that I am over stating the crank HP. I am really hoping that the engine can safely make what ford says. Lapping an M3 in a mustang (even if it has been to Hennessey) is totally awesome! I suspect that driver skill payed a large part in that too. As you can see from my profile pic I have a 2012 LS. Maybe I will track it some day. I had a 2000 cobra that I used to take to the track. Lots of fun for sure!

[rcotner]

Managed to get the gauges moved over to the body and rewired. Mounted them to the gauge plate and put the body back on the frame. Everything still works!

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[wallace18]

Great looking dash!

[donshapansky]

Ray I have a lot of experience in the motorcycle and automotive fields after a lifetime in the tech side of both industries, my experience with the Coyote and talking to others in the industry the last thing you need to worry about is the integrity of the engine under high stress and RPM. I have watched a Z06 blow up and other push rod based engines, it's usually the result of a valve train failure. The Boss that I have has been at 7000 - 7500 for most of it's life with any hint of stress, oil consumption etc. My experience is that this engine design is well able to take a lot of high rpm without risk of a chain of events such as a pushrod/rocker failure, valve keeper dislodged. One very key thing is the mass of lack thereof in the valve train. Closed valve spring pressures are a fraction of an equivalent OHV engine the ramps of the cam are able to be made quite aggressive without the loads of a high ratio rocker arm pushrod arrangement.
Also the small bore design and relatively short stroke wears well at high RPM, cylinder wall wear is much less due the cylinder arrangement. A recent extensive article about todays ideal engine design says the ideal cylinder size is 500 cc or 30 cubic inches with a slightly under square bore/stroke arrangement, whether naturally aspirated or turbo charged. As we will see in the next generation of Coyote with a flat plane crank the rpm limit with be raised to 8000 with less counterweights on the crank, 540 hp (speculative) without a blower! This engine will live for a long time due to less heat from turbos or blowers and mess with an LS7 big time.

[rcotner]

Don, you sound a lot like an engineer . Working in an industry and enjoying the fruits of your labor as a hobby must be great! The reason I got into this car building thing is because of my 30 years as an engineer building the processes to make chips (of the silicon variety not potato ) I needed a more personal outlet for my love of things mechanical. The Cobra mustang I owned had been built by Sean Hyland of Shelby fame. He stroked and re-sleeved the cylinders increasing the displacement from 4.6L to something north of 5.0. The car was very fast. Unfortunately after a day at Portland International Raceway I found oil in my coolant. Somewhere along the way the cylinder sleeves slipped and dropped about half a mm. Major bummer! I have been nervous about tracking my cars since. I realize that I am naive about such things but engines are expensive to rebuild.

Thanks for the technical input. 540hp is a lot of ponies.

[donshapansky]

Surge Tank Mounting.JPG
I finally got to drive mine today, it was 70+ here in Texas and my wife was ready to be the co-pilot. Everything worked well except I had to bleed the front brakes again! The black finish is worn off the discs now and it stops a lot better, one snag is my AODE electronic module won't sense the throttle voltage in put, I proved it is going into the module but not being sensed so the upshifts are firm to say the least it's probably shifted by the governor without any modulation. So now it's time mount the body and get ready for paint.

[maczter]

That's a baddass looking plenum! Cannot wait to go-cart mine.

[rcotner]

Surge Tank Mounting.JPG
I finally got to drive mine today, it was 70+ here in Texas and my wife was ready to be the co-pilot. Everything worked well except I had to bleed the front brakes again! The black finish is worn off the discs now and it stops a lot better, one snag is my AODE electronic module won't sense the throttle voltage in put, I proved it is going into the module but not being sensed so the upshifts are firm to say the least it's probably shifted by the governor without any modulation. So now it's time mount the body and get ready for paint.

Don, that is great. I drove mine around the neighborhood last weekend. Lots of fun.