The Start of a Journey - Metros Build Thread

[metros]

It's been awhile since I've updated my build. I've been working along throughout just slow progress.

I've further modified the rear firewall so that it can be removed without removing the gas tank. That way if I need to work on the front of the engine it's doable without too much work to reach the area. I've added slots on either side to allow more routes of wiring/lines between the passenger area and engine. I've also used DEI reflecta gold on the engine side to reflect heat and protect the gas tank area.



I finally decided to pick up the killer bee oil pan. There have been some issues with engine durability while on track. I'm using this pan for the additional oil volume and better capability of keeping the oil near the pick up. The build quality of the oil pan was top notch as well.



Installed:


Once that was decided upon and installed I could install the Grimmspeed exhaust manifolds that I ordered forever ago. I'm using the larger cross pipe and grimmspeed up-pipe as well. All of these parts have been coated with ceramic coating to keep heat inside the manifold and improve spool. I decided against heat wrapping as well due to the breakdown of ceramic coatings when wrapped. Hopefully this will be enough to really cut down on the engine bay heat and noticeably improve spool.



Insert turbo here:




Gas tank is in place and shouldn't have to come out again.

[metros]

Dead pedal area on driver side and passenger side have come back from powdercoating and have been installed. I'm planning on dressing these up with STi dead pedals.



Brake and clutch cylinders installed:


You can also see that the steering column is now installed. I shortened the column by an inch and used Rori's billet aluminum spacer to give the driver a bit more room. Starting to look like a car!



Recently I had the opportunity to visit another local 818 builder and see how he ran the brake lines. Seeing another example in real life is really helpful to picture how everything will be situated. Next weekend I'm going to start work on the brake and clutch lines. I'll also be installing the Michael Eversion custom remote master reservoir and clutch line kit.

I think I'm about 75% decided on paint color. I have been planning charcoal gray all along. Factory five racing just released pictures of their new paint scheme with a satin metallic gray. I'll let the pictures do the talking.

[metalmaker12]

It's been awhile since I've updated my build. I've been working along throughout just slow progress.

I've further modified the rear firewall so that it can be removed without removing the gas tank. That way if I need to work on the front of the engine it's doable without too much work to reach the area. I've added slots on either side to allow more routes of wiring/lines between the passenger area and engine. I've also used DEI reflecta gold on the engine side to reflect heat and protect the gas tank area.



I finally decided to pick up the killer bee oil pan. There have been some issues with engine durability while on track. I'm using this pan for the additional oil volume and better capability of keeping the oil near the pick up. The build quality of the oil pan was top notch as well.



Installed:


Once that was decided upon and installed I could install the Grimmspeed exhaust manifolds that I ordered forever ago. I'm using the larger cross pipe and grimmspeed up-pipe as well. All of these parts have been coated with ceramic coating to keep heat inside the manifold and improve spool. I decided against heat wrapping as well due to the breakdown of ceramic coatings when wrapped. Hopefully this will be enough to really cut down on the engine bay heat and noticeably improve spool.



Insert turbo here:




Gas tank is in place and shouldn't have to come out again.

Put some gas in it, and drive around than tell me it does not have to come out.

[metros]

^^^Not sure what you're referring to.

[mikeb75]

Looking good, especially the Mtn Dew side panel!

1 question; you ran your throttle cable through one of the smaller front firewall holes. I've seen many builds running the cable through the large hole I think the instruction manual shows both FFR shifter cables using those holes. Are you using the VCP shifter kit?

[metros]

Yes, I'm using the K-tuned shifter set up. I really just stuck it through one that looked like it may be right. It's not attached to anything and I didn't check to see where it was supposed to go. That rubber boot/grommet that I have there now came from the donor throttle cable. Fits that hole perfectly.

I am a big fan of mountain dew. But those are just to protect the powder coat of interior panels when installing/removing the gas tank over and over.

[Mitch Wright]

It is hard to tell from the photo, how far blow the frame rail if any is the pan?

[metros]

I can take an exact measurement for you. I would guesstimate 1-2 inches from memory.

[Mechie3]

Chris' gas tank leaked. Mine was too big to fit and had to be cut and welded back together. I think that's what he's referring to.

[metalmaker12]

^^^Not sure what you're referring to.

Sorry, mine leaked as mech just mentioned, it was not a good moment when it occurred

[Frank818]

Sorry to hear about all these leaking, seems like a possibility for anyone, we must get prepared then.
The good news is cleaning fuel on a part or on the ground is super easy, you just light it up and it'll burn in no time.


Yeah, though it's true, plz never do it.

[metros]

Gotcha, didn't catch that in your build threads. I used KBS 3 step tank sealer awhile back. The entire inside of the gas tank is coated in an epoxy that was sloshed around for 30 minutes to cover every inch of the inside. Although thinking about it now it wouldn't be a bad idea to fill it with water and check for leaks.

[D Clary]

You need to use fuel or solvent to check for leaks. It will leak where water will not, something about surface cohesion.

[Frank818]

How long may it take before a leak is noticeable? If we have to wait a week, that's quite some time. But if it happens within hours, then it's easier.

[metros]

Another useful tip, thanks.

[metalmaker12]

It took some time, the welds were aweful on my tank, I just went and bought the Boyd, done deal.

[metros]

For those of you that are go karting or finished - how much clearance do you have between your driver side rear brake line/clutch line junction point (hard to flex line)? I have between 1.5 to 2" clearance with the engine at rest. Wondering if that is going to be enough once the engine is rocking and rolling. I'm thinking I'll probably put a heat sleeve over these lines to keep engine heat off of them.

Pictures:

[metros]

Completed another major milestone!

The brake and clutch lines are complete! This was my first try at running hardlines. I purchased copper/nickel lines instead of using the provided steel lines that were pre-flared. I didn't like the idea of having extra line coiled in some places as the provided lines weren't exact and needed extra connectors than necessary. The copper lines also won't rust and should provide an easier connection to ensure leak free junctions as copper will conform slightly to the fitting.

Many of you 818 builders have created perfect bent lines with perfect 90* bends where needed. The piping bender I had made more of a curve than perfect bend. If I did it again I would pick up a different bender. But for a first time I'm happy with the final product. If my OCD kicks in I can always re-make specific lines that I wasn't really satisfied with. I didn't have to use any adapters, only used the 2 t-junctions that FFR provided, and used one connector throughout the whole system.

Front Firewall:


Brake and clutch lines running side by side down the driver side - This was a challenging point because the coolant tubes and AWIC lines will have to run through this point as well. So space was at a premium.



Driver side of car -


1 T-junction -


Running line over to the passenger side. I decided on running it here versus under the engine as I thought it would be further out of the way. Plus it may keep it a little further from heat sources.


Put the front nose piece on! Next comes radiator/AWIC heat exchanger and coolant lines.


Clutch line - Mike Everson products displayed here! This allows you to sling this out of the way in the event of removing the engine. I'm all about preventing hard work in the future with careful planning now. I angled my line a little different than Mike planned but I think it'll be further away from issue here than how he had it positioned.


Today feels good. A little closer to getting to go karting stage.

[Frank818]

Same here, brakes lines where the AWIC lines should run, but I am seriously thinking of routing them both on the passenger's side. I'll see. Any reason why you need to do it on the driver's side?

[metros]

The state of affairs:
I've been lacking posting updates through the crazy holiday and surgery recovery. I had a hernia repaired and have taken longer to recover than I had anticipated. Now that I'm healthy again I can return to work.

I left off having just installed the nose piece for radiator/heat exchanger. I've since started the mounting process. The radiator is completed but disassembled while I work on mounting the heat exchanger. These heat exchanger mounts may or may not be something pretty trick that a FFR forum local designed. Keep an eye out for updates.





I've since switched from a Cobb LW crank pulley to a Fluidamper crank pulley. See also, finishing the alternator install with belt. I ended up purchasing the piece that Mike Everson sells (turnbuckle) to mount the passenger side of the alternator and tension the belt properly.



I also installed Mike Everson's remote reservoir. Going to wait until I mount the windshield wiper motor to mount the reservoir to. I'll trim the lines to length then.



Now the COOL stuff! Got the turbo hooked up this weekend. I ended up having to clearance the cold side of the turbo housing a mm or two so everything could line up nicely on the up-pipe studs. Taking an angle grinder with flapper wheel disc to an $1800 turbo is sketchy. I really took my time and went very slowly with frequent re-fitting to keep exactly where I needed to be.



Installed:

[metros]

I'm using a Blouch 18g-xt with 8cm housing. Had the hotside ceramic coated by Blouch and am using a DEI turbo blanket. The exhaust manifolds and up-pipe were all ceramic coated by Grimmspeed before they stopped that service. I'm hoping to get full spool on this motor/turbo by 3500 rpm or sooner. I'm hoping all these extras with the extremely short exhaust 'system' I can get there.





Next up I need to finish my heat exchanger mounting, run the coolant lines, and finish the gas tank/firewall permanently. My Bimarco Futura seats should be here any day. Within the next month I'll be strapping on a nice set of wheels and tires. Lots of exciting steps to be taken.

Working on Dad's car makes me hungry!



...and sometimes crazy!

[metros]

This weekend I was able to get the radiator and AWIC heat exchanger mounted. I'm using a CSF Racing radiator that my local speed shop (Mach V) turned me on to. For the heat exchanger I'm using VCP AWIC kit with Craig's Zero Decibel Motorsports mounts. Overall came out looking good and with good placement of the heat exchanger. With the ZDB mounts you don't need an extension on the top 90* elbow, which means less points of potential leaking.







I also adjusted the Koni shocks to my liking in preparation for install. I'm using the 818R shocks which are rebound adjustable.

If you're using the red 818R shocks then this is the button that you need to hold down while adjusting. With these shocks you don't need to compress the piston.



Hoping to finish the coolant system next weekend. Potentially a work closing snowstorm on Monday, which means I might be able to sneak some extra garage time in.

Starting to get close to putting fluids in.

[Mechie3]

Thanks for test fitting these. . Production parts should be available late this week or the beginning of next week.

[Frank818]

Ouch, the top barb fitting is more than tight. Mines are straight, I wonder how I'll make it...

[Mechie3]

Production versions added an extra .2" of clearance. Straight won't make it. If the HE was centered then you need to bend the hoses and risk kinking them. The side of the subframe has aluminum covering the end as well.

[metros]

Well, haven't had any luck with getting build days contributed via snowstorm. I have had many sick kid days that I'd like to avoid again in the future.

I've finished running the coolant lines. I decided instead of using the corrugated tubing to make the sharp turn on each side in the rear that I would purchase an additional upper radiator hose and use those corners in the rear. Worked well thus far. Critiques?

Driver Side


Passenger side


Around steering rack




Also, got the 2wd conversion going. I was able to complete all the necessary changes and torque trans nut back to 87 ft/lb. However, the damn upper race wouldn't pop out. Feels like it was pressed in, once I figure something out for that then it's ready to be buttoned up again.



All finished, waiting for the cover after upper race is removed.


Still working on figuring out the rear trailing arm alignment of driver side. Haven't gotten everything to play nice together yet.

[JeromeS13]

Have you tried fitting the side sails on with the current location of the coolant tubes? They look like they may interfere...

[tmoretta]

I agree, they look too high to me also.

[icky]

Comming along nicely, one thing that may help in spool is also coating the oem heatsheilds and installing them. Anything to keep fast flowing air from the header surface.

[metros]

What's the highest they should be? If only there were a document that informed builders of this important information as they went along.

[C.Plavan]

Those will hit the side body it looks like.

[JeromeS13]

What's the highest they should be? If only there were a document that informed builders of this important information as they went along.

From what I recall, the build manual states no higher than 5" from the bottom?

[tmoretta]

I found that 5 inches was a conservative figure. Best to trial fit with the side sails.

[Frank818]

Metros, be careful with your AWIC drain plug, if you tighten it too much, the o-ring will stretch and rip off. Don't ask how I know.

[metros]

Update: The upper race is still firmly in place. It doesn't spin/move in any way with heat or not. It really feels like the race was pressed into place. The trans I purchased used but has been built by Andrewtech with PPG gears. Do you think they would press that race into place?

I attempted to use an air chisel to cut the race in half but it put an imprint on the chisel bit instead of getting cut in half.

I don't have access to a Tig welder, so my next thought it so braze it in place. Thoughts? My brother in law is helping me with that. He has an acetelyne torch to get it to temperate (400*).

Good idea or bad idea?

[Hindsight]

Why don't you just pull the tail cone off and tap it off from the back side?

Another option would be to drill a hole in it, tap the hole, put a bolt in there, then attach the bolt to a slide hammer. I think removing the tail cone is the best option.

[metros]

From what I'm looking at it doesn't look like removing the tail would give me access to the backside of the race. Am I wrong in that assumption?

I'm not sure I could get a drill bit to bite into it, it's considerably stronger than what I've been using on it.

[STiPWRD]

Removing the rear casing is easy and will give you better access to the race. Also it will prevent metal shavings from getting into the rest of the trans. I have PPG gears installed by Andrewtech and my race fell right out.

I'm not sure if the torch would work but it's worth a shot. Another option is to just buy another rear casing section and replace your old one.

[Hindsight]

If you don't have access to the area behind the racing (though if I recall correctly you should), you could always drill through the back of the casing behind the race (with the tailcone removed) until you hit the race. Do that in two spots and then use a bunch to tap it out. The holes you leave behind won't be an issue.

[metros]

Both good ideas. Welding shop wasn't open today so that gives me more time/opportunities to get this taken care of before attempting to braze.

Going to look up some diagrams for the tail housing and see if that sheds any light on what access removing it will provide.