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Thread: The Start of a Journey - Metros Build Thread

  1. #201
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Just leave the race in... If it eventually falls out it can't do any damage, it will just flop around in the bottom of that empty space???
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  2. #202
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I worry about that because what if it bounces just right and makes it through the opening into the main trans gears. I need to measure if that's possible between the 2 measurements.

  3. #203
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    I worry about that because what if it bounces just right and makes it through the opening into the main trans gears. I need to measure if that's possible between the 2 measurements.
    Metros
    You can take the housing off and drill a hole through the housing where I marked in the picture below.
    Then use a punch to knock the race out.
    Bob
    housing2.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  4. #204
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I would guesstimate that I'll have spent between $30k-40k when it's all finished. That will include paint and all the upgrades detailed throughout the build. To date I've recouped around $6500 from the donor, which I spent just over $7k for. Starting with a $10k kit is great but it really adds up when you start looking at all the toys and add ons available. However, I think once finished - the car will far exceed other cars in the $30-40k category.

    Updates:
    I re-routed the coolant lines to better stay within the alotted space for body. I also included an adapter to tap a coolant temp sensor in with. There is still a slope upwards toward the engine to help get the air out of the system.



    Adapter with tape over the threaded opening.


    Purposely left extra slack in the lines to allow for engine movement.


    I've also got the driver side rear suspension sorted out. I had to 'adjust' the tabs on the modified rear trailing arms that I purchased from Wayne at VeryCoolParts. These trailing arms allow for wider wheels/tires in the rear, which I'll need.



    Speaking of wheels/tires - The wheels and tires have been purchased. I was anticipating picking them up today. However, UPS didn't deliver the tires on time and I think I'll have to wait until next week. I'm using Yoko AD08R tires - 235/40/17 up front and 265/35/18 on the rear.

    The wheels themselves are Mach V Motorsports 'awesome' and 'wicked awesome'. These are a flow-form casted wheel that come in at 17.8lbs for the 17x9 +42 fronts and 19lbs for the 18x9.5 +42 rear wheel. I chose the gold version, which I think will look good on the white gel coat body or the paint color I'm thinking of. Really looking forward to seeing what this thing looks like with meaty wheels and tires on it.


  5. #205
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Gauges:
    I've been waiting for my gauges to arrive for several weeks. I ordered SPA dual gauges, which have 2 digital read outs per gauge, hence the name. The company has notified me to let me know that the sensors are what they're waiting for. Until I have those gauges I can't put fluids in the car and check for leaks. Although I've got plenty of other things to work on while I'm waiting.

    2wd Conversion:
    Per my last update - I've been working on converting the awd car to 2wd, which in it's current orientation will be RWD - even though it's using the front axles in that location. My last update left off with a bearing race that wouldn't budge. I decided not to braze that in place and take the next section of transmission off instead. That allowed me to drill a hole through the aluminum wall on the backside of the bearing race and beat it out with a punch. I missed on the first drill location by a hair, but placed the 2nd drill in the exact location it needed to be. I don't anticipate the 2 additional 1/8" holes will cause any issues. I can now rest assured that the bearing race won't pop out while I'm on track or driving on the street.

    Sometimes this is necessary - the backside of the trans extension and the offending race. I win.


    Said race - It is completely unscatched regardless of the many different strategies I used to get it out. I think I'm going to try to re-use this somewhere in the car for something else. It'll make a neat little accent that I know the background on.


    I'm glad to have the trans buttoned back up. Transmission work is beyond my paygrade. I'm glad the work I did have to do was straight forward and didn't require in depth trans work. Now I can go back to pretending that there are mystical gnomes turning cranks inside the trans.


    This week I also sent out and received back my donor cluster. I requested the help of 'K3LAG' to prepare my gauge for my 'new' car. Now when I turn it over for the first time it'll have a fresh start. Larry (K3LAG) was very easy to work with. Kept me updated and got it sent back to me promptly. Not to mention very reasonably priced for the service.
    Before:


    After:

  6. #206
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Next on the list before I can fire it up:

    -Mount AWIC and run lines to the front heat exchanger.
    -Finish odds and ends of cooling system (mount upper tank, run a few hoses).
    -Install gas filler and fuel lines to the engine.
    -Install shifter/shift cables
    -Lay in the iWire harness
    -Attach throttle cable
    -Add fluids and check for leaks (brake fluid, coolant, AWIC coolant, oil, trans)

    I've got my eye out for some upcoming spring weather that I won't be feeling well enough to waste a day at work. Spring fever is real, right?

    Everyone I know keeps asking when it will be done and if it'll be a driving car this year. My only answer is that it must be done this year. I need it to be done for warm weather this year. I can't handle another summer without a fun car to drive.

  7. #207
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Great progress!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  8. #208
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    ^^^Thanks.

    Slow but sure is about where I'm at with progress. It's getting there, just slowly. Having some degree of OCD during a car build does not help.

  9. #209
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    I would guesstimate that I'll have spent between $30k-40k when it's all finished.
    Considering the current exchange rate, mine is going to cost about the same. So I am not that off, tnx for posting your WAG.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  10. #210
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Box from halfway around the world waiting for me on the doorstep when I got home from work. I love it when a plan comes together.

  11. #211
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Overnight parts from Japan?

    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  12. #212
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Some weekends working on this car you just feel like you're getting things done and crossing things off the list. Feels good, man.

    Over the past 2 weeks I've had several big parts arrive, which really makes getting through the workday much harder. OCD checking the UPS tracking and finding 'out for delivery' makes for a great quitting time from work.

    The most exciting new parts I've received are the Mach V Motorsports 'Awesome' and 'wicked awesome' wheels. The 'awesome' wheels are 17x9, +42 offset and 17.8 lbs. The 'wicked awesome' wheels are 18x9.5, +42, and 19 lbs. Obviously I'll be using the wider wheels in the rear. I'll be using Yoko AD08R tires 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.

    Anytime I purchase a new set of wheels I seal them prior to installation. It really goes a long way in keeping them perfect. Here are the steps I use:
    1. Degrease with Meguires all purpose degreaser/cleaner - inside of barrel, face of wheel, inside/outside tire.
    2. Apply Prima Wheel Armour, which is a sealant specifically for wheels.
    3. Follow up with last step product of your choice. I like Menzerna Powerlock and Prima Hydro. They both leave a wet appearance and add a lot of slickness.
    4. Apply Adam's RTV to inside/outside of tire face and buff off. I also hit the valve stem with this product. This product is usable on rubber or vinyl trim and leaves a matte finish once buffed off. Plus it's waterproof and lasts several washes before re-application.

    If you're lucky, you'll have someone playing supervisor to make sure you didn't miss any spots.



    Once all that has been completed the wheels are ready for installation.

    Here's what they look like in the sun after all that love.


    Room light:


    Installed!




    Rear wheels look meaty


    Front wheels installed:

  13. #213
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Both front wheels just barely clear the firewall when turned lock to lock. The driver side there is probably a credit card width and the passenger side is probably 1/8". I was checking clearance with/without a spacer. The driver side (less clearance) had a 10mm spacer and the passenger side (more clearance) had no spacer. I plan to adjust the front suspension to add a little caster, which should provide a little more clearance. Of course, this isn't speaking to body interference, which I'll have to work with later down the road.

    Driver side at full lock:


    Passenger side full lock.


    This week I also received a few more crucial parts for the build.

    I finally received the Bimarco Futura seats I ordered back in early December. They're FIA rated and reasonably priced. Fit me perfectly as well, which is the main reason I ordered them.



    I also received the SPA Dual gauges that I ordered awhile ago. I'll have 2 gauges that will display oil temp/water temp and boost pressure/oil pressure. They're digital and have a ton of great features. I like them primarily because you get more information with less gauges cluttering the car.

    This weekend I was able to address a lot of odds and ends that needed to be taken care of.
    -Installed the Mishimoto thermostatic oil sandwich plate - for oil cooler duty.
    -Install the sensors/probes for the temp gauges I'll be running.
    -Checked and re-checked the appropriate coolant lines were capped or looped and clamps were tight.
    -Installed wheels - the rears I'll need a larger spacer than what I had on hand. I'm anticipating a 15mm spacer for the rear. The fronts fit without spacers with varying levels of clearance with the fire wall.
    -Mocked up shift cables, mocked up shifter position, installed shifter into chassis - just need to finish cable installation.
    -Set a seat in place.
    -Trimmed rear brake pads and installed.

  14. #214
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Shifter - *drool*


    Cables in place in the rear: Using Rori's cable mounts and shift arm.


    Seat in place with shifter. There were many vroom vroom noises to be had.


    I'm questioning whether I should switch to the Boyd fuel tank for additional leg room. If I didn't have the gas tank done, firewall powdercoated, and everything ready to go - then I think I would be switching. I'm still considering it though. That leaves me the issue of finding a place with a brake press large enough to re-bend the firewall to take advantage of the additional spacer. Plus getting it re-powdercoated.

    Next up:
    -Installing the AWIC and running the lines - Need to sort out putting a fitting into the AWIC to allow burping of the system.
    -Putting the beautiful iWire harness in place.
    -Fluids
    -Fuel lines
    -WIndshield Frame & installing remote reservoir to fiberglass frame.
    -Bleed Brakes

  15. #215
    Moonlight Performance
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    I wear about a 32" inseam pant and I feel pretty good with where I am from a leg-room standpoint using the OE tank. Part of it is that I have my seat tipped back as far as it will go for broomstick clearance. That changes the leg dynamics a bit and makes more bend normal.

    Your build is coming along very nice. I think I'm going to have to get me one of those shift arms from Rori. Do you think you'll need to do any bod mods in the rear to fit those tires? They look huge! Can't believe they are only one size larger than the FFR suggested 255.

  16. #216
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    You're right, I do still need to adjust the rake of the seat. Hopefully that will free up just a little more room. Once I'm seated I'm fairly comfortable, but climbing in and out is challenging right now. More reinforcement for getting back into working out as it is starting to get warmer.

    Once the car is registered I'm getting an aftermarket steering wheel to provide a little more room for enter/exit.

    Body work - I'm not really sure yet. Being just one size bigger than the recommended, I'd like to say no. But I won't really know until I start fitting the body.

    I would highly recommend Rori's shift arm. Way simpler and cleaner than what FFR provides. His cable routing brackets are spot on as well.

  17. #217
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Metros, you're front wheels barely clearing out the FW, is that with a proper wheel alignment or not yet?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #218
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Not even close to a proper alignment. Plus I haven't done any of the modifications for free caster. I think once I add a little caster then I'll have enough clearance to breath easily.

  19. #219
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    Sick wheels man, looking awesome!!! Those rear wheels are so wide

  20. #220
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Once the car is registered I'm getting an aftermarket steering wheel to provide a little more room for enter/exit.
    Is there a requirement in VA for a certain size steering wheel? I haven't seen this mentioned so far, plus I already bought a smaller steering wheel and sold the old one.

  21. #221
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    To be honest, I'm not sure. I'm keeping the stock wheel initially just for appearances. When I tried to seek out information on registering a kit car I came across nothing but vague information. The DMV directed me to contact a state trooper via email. He reported that my kit car needs to have everything a new car would have. I've done my best to try to think ahead and used DOT approved brake lines, etc. Registering the car is one thing that will be high anxiety for me.

  22. #222
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Looks fantastic!!! My son likes the wheels too.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  23. #223
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    To be honest, I'm not sure. I'm keeping the stock wheel initially just for appearances. When I tried to seek out information on registering a kit car I came across nothing but vague information. The DMV directed me to contact a state trooper via email. He reported that my kit car needs to have everything a new car would have. I've done my best to try to think ahead and used DOT approved brake lines, etc. Registering the car is one thing that will be high anxiety for me.
    Yea I'm not looking forward to registering either but from what I've read and remember speaking about with someone from the DMV, at the minimum you'll need to pass inspection and emissions. Inspection stations have a checklist of the basic items needed like head lights, catalytic converter, no exhaust leaks, no brake line leaks, enough tire tread etc... as well as wipers and a defroster. I've talked to at least one inspection station that has done a cobra kit car before (but this won't necessarily be the same) so they're familiar with kit cars. For emissions, you'll need to pass the same requirements as the model year car of the motor you're using - 2002 wrx in my case. So essentially I'll have to not show any ECU codes and am supposed to have all the related emissions equipment. I'm hoping to get by without all the emissions stuff (other than the cat and vapor canister) on the car and suppressing the codes with Rom Raider. Once the car is inspected and passes emissions, hopefully it will be straight forward to register the 818 by showing FFR certificate of origin and receipt for the motor (I'm using a 2.5L block). I'm sure I'll have to pay some taxes.

    You're car is looking great by the way.

  24. #224
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    The DMV directed you to a state trooper? Weird... do they not have an inspections department? Where do you go to get inspected? I would try to reach out to the place that inspects the car.

    In CT they have a list of requirements. A defroster is not necessary on an open cockpit car. I would be worried what the trooper said about having "everything that a new car would have." Does that mean airbags, abs, etc.? Those are not required where we are.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  25. #225
    Member tebriel's Avatar
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    That sounds similar to WI. No one has registered one here yet, but it appears that at the very least you need all the same emissions and safety equipment from the donor engine's model year. So ABS, air bags, no error codes, etc.

  26. #226
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I'm hoping to avoid anything to do with ABS. Hopefully that isn't one of the requirements as that would set me back a ways.

    Build updates:

    Last weekend I was tied up inside all weekend for a continuing ed course. Sitting and staring at how beautiful it was outside and how perfect a day for garage work it would be.

    This weekend I took a lot of backwards steps to move forward.

    I discovered that hand tightening the rear axle nuts would prevent the axle from turning easily. Prior to install I had new bearings installed at all 4 corners and didn't know wha the potential cause could be. After posting for help on the FFR forum it was deemed a probable inner seal flipped in reverse causing the binding. I took both rear suspensions apart to remove the rear axles and found both rear seals were oriented correctly. Without the axle nut on both sides turn freely. I decided to tighten the axle nut hand tight and see how much force it took to turn it. Both sides seemed to loosen up the more I spun the axle with the torque wrench. After a few revolutions it now takes 20 ft/lb of force to turn the axle via the axle nut (center of rotating mass). I can now also turn each side by hand (although some force) with the axle nut tightened down much harder. At this point I'm going to leave it as is and see how it behaves after I get to go karting. If a spin around the block doesn't loosen things up to my comfort level then I'll take them back to the shop for a double check.

    I also had to re-install the fuel pump/hanger assembly. For some reason when putting it all together the first time I oriented the outlets to the passenger side. However, the driver side is where they needed to be pointed. That required removing the fuel pump/disassembling and re-assembling in the opposite orientation. That was the only way I could get the hanger to lay the sock filter inside the tank correctly. Once this was taken care of I installed the fuel filter and ran the rubber lines. Way back while prepping the engine I upgraded all the fuel rail lines to 3/8" lines. I continued that thought process and upgraded the tank to filter to engine fuel lines to 3/8" as well.

    I used Robb MC Fuel filters that are re-buildable and filter down to 10 microns. They also come with 3/8" inlet/outlets which made this easy. As recommended here on the FFR forum. Thanks!

    See: http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/filters.html

    Fuel filter


    Tank and lines


    The shifter cables have been run through the engine and are in place for the shifter. I slide some 1" heat sleeve around the cables to keep them bundled together and also provide some additional heat protection.

    See maroon cable covers here:


    I ordered a 1/2" npt tap to correct the threads in the oil pan for my oil temp sensor. I needed to use a 1/2 npt to 1/8 npt adapter plug. I wrapped the 1/2 threads with teflon tape - evidently too much teflon tape. Ended up messing half way of the threads up as well as the adapter. That's a rough way to start the weekend.

    Last time in the garage I installed the mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate for my oil cooler. Evidently the stock sized oil filter is just a hair too wide for the sandwich plate and leaked some remaining oil from the engine all over the garage floor. Anybody here using the same sandwich plate have issues with the oil filter fitting correctly?

    I also am still in search of the clutch/flywheel cover? Patrick Olsen was kind enough to volunteer a piece that looked like the correct part but doesn't encompass everything I anticipated.

    Here is what I'm looking at.


    That seems like too much left uncovered to the elements. What am I missing?

    Is part number 30216 in the below link what I'm looking for? Thanks again to Patrick for offering the part and providing some help on locating a part number.
    http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_200...11-011-01.html

  27. #227
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    You copied a truncated link and not the full link.

    It's part #10 in this link:

    http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_1/

    Cover complete-clutch housing 30216AA020
    Last edited by Mechie3; 03-29-2015 at 07:40 PM.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  28. #228
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Over the past few weeks I've done a lot of little things that needed finishing to button up some areas.

    -Installed fuel filler and lower firewall. I initially had rivnuts installed and ready to go to bolt the lower firewall to the floor. After getting them in I wanted something more stout, so I drilled those all out and used 1" grade 8 bolts through the floor (pointing up) with a washer/nut on top. At this point I may do the same with the upper firewall, or may stay with the rivnuts.

    I also added a fuel tank strap to ensure the tank stays in place. I cut off the FFR mounting tabs awhile back because they kept getting in the way when I was installing/removing.

    Getting the fuel tank filler to play required removal/reinstallation of aforementioned fire wall and gas tank installation. I love practicing removal/reinstallation.





    -Added some DEI reflectagold to the underside of the AWIC to help keep engine heat out of the intercooler. Bling blang!



    -Installed previously discussed flywheel/clutch cover. That looks better.



    -Mounted the AWIC pump in the front. I opted for mounting on the driver side instead of passenger side as the outlet will be pointing in the correct direction.



    -I also took care of a lot of the vacuum hoses/vent lines that weren't yet completed. I just need to source a new OEM or aftermarket Samco bypass hose as my turbosmart BPV will be plumbed back into the intake. Once I have that installed then I can start hooking the AWIC core up.

    -I have the intake planned out and parts coming to complete that. I'm going to have the filter sit inside the hump for a fresh air source.

    -Hooked up the throttle line to throttle body. Started a mount for a gas pedal stop so I don't bend the gas pedal when at WOT.

  29. #229
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    This weekend started off full of hope and anticipation of some solid garage time. However, last week a promotion opened up that I'll need to interview for. I'm also competing with my wife for the position. That dictated new interview clothes, practicing interview questions, and polishing my resume/cover letter/goal page. All of which sucked up a ton of time. On top of that I had a lot of housework to tackle like washing the cars, oil changes, yardwork etc. I've got to get back to working outside after work on the weeknights so it doesn't get in the way of more important things.

    Anyway:

    Mocked up my gas pedal stop. Just need a long bolt/allthread with a piece on the end to provide the actual stop. See aluminum piece - when the gas pedal is pressed the center of the pedal is at that height.



    Got the bypass valve hose in, which meant I could button a lot of things up.

    Mocked up the AWIC core/tubing. Here's how it sits right now. I'm not 100% happy with how everything is fitting. It currently sits 9" above the cross bar, which seems like it may interfere with the engine cover. Maybe someone who is done can confirm the amount of room from cross bar to engine cover for me. I'm considering swapping things around in a different orientation. Open to suggestions from others.



    Turbosmart re-circ valve


    Also put a couple gallons of gas in the tank this weekend. Checking for leaks frequently to make sure I'm good. However, I am confident in the gas tank sealer that I used way back. KBS tank sealer is designed for use on tanks severely rusted and can seal tanks with pinholes. Hopefully it'll keep all the gas on the inside.

  30. #230
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    It currently sits 9" above the cross bar, which seems like it may interfere with the engine cover. Maybe someone who is done can confirm the amount of room from cross bar to engine cover for me.
    Metros,
    Here is Metalmakers support bar. It shows 8" above bottom bar of shock tower support.

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post179568

    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  31. #231
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Oh wait, you had to remove the gas tank to fit the fuel filler? Why? I just installed my tank after hours of swearing, back pain, hand scratched, etc. I won't ever remove my damn tank (unless is leaks). I have the rubber installed already at the bottom where the hole is for the filler, I just need to put the alu tube and that's it. Did you remove the tank cuz the rubber was not on yet or just to fit the alu tube?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  32. #232
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I had to remove the tank because the filler coupler wasn't in place yet. I found it was too tight against one of the cross members to allow the rubber coupler to slide on.

    Thanks for the link, Bob. Looks like I've got some re-adjusting to do.

  33. #233
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Nice build !
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  34. #234
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    ^^^Thanks!

    This weekend I was able to re-arrange the intercooler piping to something more height friendly. Only piece I still need to acquire is a 45* connection between the 3" intercooler outlet and 2.75" throttle body. Purchased one from Pegasus racing and the quality is not great. I'm going to contact Wayne from VCP and pick one up.





    Also started laying the harness in over the weekend. I have to say how happy I am that I purchased the iWire harness. What could be a bird's nest of wiring, is instead a neat bundle of wires with correct lengths and new loom throughout.

    Laying out in the sun to warm everything up.


    Ease it in


    Fuse boxes mounted:


    The engine bay gets 2 bundles that travel along the angled bars above the hole in the firewall. 1 bundle goes to each side of the engine. Can't keep wiring any neater than that.


    I need to source a 1.75" grommet for front firewall and can then feed the wires through the front firewall. Otherwise, just need to keep tracing things and routing them correctly.

  35. #235
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I wasn't sure if I should post these questions here or in the iWire thread. Decided upon here to keep the other thread clutter free.

    Looking for some info on plugs that I'm not sure where to put.

    Along with the cluster plugs there is a 4th white plug as pictured here:


    Same general area - front/dash area:
    White plastic case with 2 white plugs and lone red wire with it's own black plug.


    The following 2 pictures go together.

    I'm seeing the OBDII plug, 2 green connectors (used when flashing the ecu) and individual plug that seems homeless.


    Nearby, coming from the steering wheel:
    The yellow one won't be used as it's the airbag. But the other 3 haven't found partners yet.


    Brian - Help!

    Whoops, 1 more.

    This is the passenger side rear of engine harness. One is the second o2 sensor, the other 3 I'm not certain of.
    Last edited by metros; 05-02-2015 at 06:52 PM.

  36. #236
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Last photo blue is boost solenoid and the wide black is the maf. The two white plugs remind me of the radio and HVAC plugs. Check my wiring thread. It has photos and names of every connector in an 06. Many cars are similar if not identical.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
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  37. #237
    iWire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    I wasn't sure if I should post these questions here or in the iWire thread. Decided upon here to keep the other thread clutter free.

    Looking for some info on plugs that I'm not sure where to put.

    Along with the cluster plugs there is a 4th white plug as pictured here:
    Hazard button

    Same general area - front/dash area:
    White plastic case with 2 white plugs and lone red wire with it's own black plug.
    Horn trigger, goes to wiring coming from the clock spring. 3 white plugs to the underside the steering wheel for turns/lights/wiper (take off the clam shell and you'll see it)

    The following 2 pictures go together.

    I'm seeing the OBDII plug, 2 green connectors (used when flashing the ecu) and individual plug that seems homeless.
    It's the initialization connector, you should get a jumper with the reflashing tool

    Nearby, coming from the steering wheel:
    The yellow one won't be used as it's the airbag. But the other 3 haven't found partners yet.
    Blue goes to the ignition cylinder, but since you are using the master switch panel w/starter you can take it out.
    The 2 pin black goes to the key warning, since you don't need the ignition cylinder you can take that out
    The black 5 pin goes to the horn one described above.


    Brian - Help!

    Whoops, 1 more.

    This is the passenger side rear of engine harness. One is the second o2 sensor, the other 3 I'm not certain of.
    Left to right, EGT, boost controller, Maf, 02 Sensor
    Glad to install is going well and thanks for the kind words!
    Last edited by iWire; 05-02-2015 at 08:25 PM.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
    iWire Subaru Wiring Services
    Over 100 Custom 818 Wiring Harnesses Built
    http://www.iwireservices.com/factory...18-wiring-kits
    [email protected]

  38. #238
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Must've seen the signal in the sky! Thanks for the fast feedback!

    Overall it's been very straight forward. Very well organized.

  39. #239
    iWire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Must've seen the signal in the sky! Thanks for the fast feedback!

    Overall it's been very straight forward. Very well organized.
    Excellent, glad to hear that! Saw your email and headed over here to help.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
    iWire Subaru Wiring Services
    Over 100 Custom 818 Wiring Harnesses Built
    http://www.iwireservices.com/factory...18-wiring-kits
    [email protected]

  40. #240
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Good news, Bad News: Good news is I beat 3 other applicants for a promotion. Bad news is that has put a damper on garage time. This week I'm taking a day off in the middle of the week to focus on the car when nobody else is home.

    Updates:
    -Wiring - I've got the harness laid in where it needs to be and zip tied loosely in place. Once I make sure the car will fire and run I'm going to go back through and use P-Clamps to secure the harness in place. Only thing I'm still working on is mounting the circuit breaker and wiring the breaker/kill switch up.

    -Mach V Motorsports electronic boost controller is installed.

    -Wayne of Very Cool Parts is sending me some 2.5" piping to finish out my AWIC routing.

    -Front suspension has been tightened to spec and paint marked. After putting some miles on the go kart I'm planning to go back through and check all the nuts/bolts.

    -Intake has been finished - it'll be drawing air in through the passenger side hump, which has shown very important for controlling intake temps by other builders.

    Coming up:
    -Mount the coolant tank and run the lines.
    -Finish wiring harness install.
    -Re-install shifter.
    -Run AWIC lines and p-clamp in place.
    -Eyeball align the rear suspension and tighten to spec.
    -Adjust routing of heater bypass hose.
    -Add fluids.
    -Fire it up!

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