PlastiDip to replace powder coat on chassis?

[Frank818]

Very interesting information!

So for Rustoleum, and maybe a couple of others, prepping the frame, 50/50 mix with mineral spirits (no idea what that is), 1 coat with a roller, all that under $100 + few hours of work of my own.

[Frank818]

What do you think of Tremclad?
A friend of my mech says he paints zambonies and the metal underneath zamonies.

The funny part? It seems to be Rustoleum!
http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGProduct.asp?pid=7

But is it the same as http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGCategory.asp?cid=94?

Or it's just a different category of Rustoleum?

[maczter]

I am touching up spots in my powder coating recommended by my coater...it takes the powder, liquifies it, and it can be brushed or sprayed on then heated with a heat gun to cure. Works freakin' great.

https://www.powderbuythepound.com/LI...OWDER_-1_PINT/

[WIS89]

I am touching up spots in my powder coating recommended by my coater...it takes the powder, liquifies it, and it can be brushed or sprayed on then heated with a heat gun to cure. Works freakin' great.

https://www.powderbuythepound.com/LI...OWDER_-1_PINT/

Now THIS looks like an excellent solution for those necessary touch-ups!

Thanks for passing it along.

Regards,

Steve

[StatGSR]

What do you think of Tremclad?
A friend of my mech says he paints zambonies and the metal underneath zamonies.

The funny part? It seems to be Rustoleum!
http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGProduct.asp?pid=7

But is it the same as http://www.rustoleum.ca/CBGCategory.asp?cid=94?

Or it's just a different category of Rustoleum?

Its just a different category/brand of rustoleum, and a different marketing name for a different country, The US does not see the Tremclad branding on any Rustoleum products.

[Scargo]

I am jumping in here because I have painted about every kind of paint there is, but most of that was 15 years ago. But, I painted for over 50 years (18 of that was at my prototyping business).
I recently went to an automotive paint supply store and bought a three-component paint system for painting my customized front bumper fascia. Not much has changed as far as I can tell.
For those who are happy with roll-on or brush-on paint jobs, please cover your eyes. If you think that you can short-cut proper prep work and use a rust inhibiting paint then don't read further. In my humble opinion, if it sprays out of a can it is not going to be very durable. If it is single component paint that you can thin and spray on, it can be slightly better with good prep work and a metal primer base coat. I have not dealt with Eastwood products but I'd think that if done correctly they could yield reasonable results.
None of these previous options will compare to Powder Coat on a clean frame. Industrial paint has been mentioned. Imron used to be the best thing going (next to the relatively new powder-coating), when I was active and I guess it still is used a lot on trucks, trains and planes. This requires a good gun, good ventilation and some skill. It is a polyurethane enamel. This requires a catalyst and reducer. It is harmful to breath it or get it on your skin. It is tough. It is a good alternative to powder coat.

[Frank818]

Scargo, in your opinion IMRON is ranked 1st, then powder coat 2nd, then stuff like Rustoleum with good metal prep/primer 3rd?

[metalmaker12]

Power coating period, it is very easy to apply using static electricity to attract powder to surface and the most durable compared to spray or roll painting.

[Frank818]

Power coating

Power coating yes, power.

[Scargo]

Scargo, in your opinion IMRON is ranked 1st, then powder coat 2nd, then stuff like Rustoleum with good metal prep/primer 3rd?

No... Powder coat first. I plan to have my frame done in powder coat once I'm finished modding it.

Second: Imron is kind of the industry standard. It is quite expensive. It is urethane. There are similar products like Sherwin-Williams Genesis, PPG's Delta line of paint and similar coatings, that are catalyzed. These come in a close second to powder-coating. I used to paint a lot of enclosures with S-W Polane T and it was tough (and you could get it in almost unlimited opaque colors and texture coat with it). Automotive enamels and clear-coats are a sub-class that are a step below for durability. This class of paint requires good safety measures above and beyond normal exposure to volatiles.

Trailing behind in a distant third: "Single component" coatings (thinner, accelerators, retarders or flex additives don't count as a "component"), like Rustoleum is in this category as are air dry enamels or anything in a rattle can.

I have not used POR-15. Some seem to swear by it. It is a single component system... sort of. It requires two coats and literature says "For externally exposed areas, topcoat with any POR-15 UV resistant topcoat to block from ultraviolet light." That sounds like a lot of work (and might leave it vulnerable if you skip it), but possibly not more work than a catalyzed base-coat and top-coat (clear-coat), system.

A caveat: I cannot know everything and all systems. I think my info is valid. There might be a super ceramic coating I have missed. Really...
If paint added power then everything would be power coated!

[Frank818]

Hum, I'll rethink my approach, still got time though. loll
Tnx for the info Scargo!

[Quiny]

Let me ask of those who had ffr powdercoat their frame would you have them do it again? I did see one post that indicated no but I would love to hear from more of you. Like many others I have a while to wait on my kit. Thinking it was a no-brainer I did elect to have ffr powdercoat the frame but I have plenty of time to change my mind. I would really appreciate any input any of you have.

[wleehendrick]

Let me ask of those who had ffr powdercoat their frame would you have them do it again?

I have no issues with the PC on my frame, it looks identical to the small parts that I had done locally. Since I did not modify my frame, I'm glad I had FFR PC it.

[RM1SepEx]

my frames powder coating has several issues... several areas had prep issues and they don't sandblast and chemically clean the frame before PC and you HAVE TO to get it done right!

I'd POR 15 it if I were to do it again as modifications would be helpful too and I've ground, and welded a few areas already

[Jeff Kleiner]

Can't speak directly to the 818 yet but I've built 3 roadsters with FFR powder coating (actually they don't do it but have it performed by a local vendor). All looked good and are holding up well with oldest being from over 7 years ago. I'd expect similar on the 818.

Jeff

[metalmaker12]

It looks good and is holding up good, if you clean slag and scale from welds and metal tubing is clean and free of scale sand blasting is not really needed. Offcoarse sand blasting is preferred and they should offer it as an additional charge. I would have them do it again, but they should offer a sandblast.

[Frank818]

I never thought my simple question (simple to write, maybe not to answer lol) would generate so many replies, I am quite happy about that, gives me a much better understanding of the "metal painting" world. I'm sure it helps other people too. Let's continue to move on!

[Evan78]

Prepped properly, try zero prep.

My frame was pc'd over scaly rust. I don't need to mention how pissed I am. The last car I built was featured in a magazine, my GTM will be of the same quality. I can't even put a piece of tape on my frame without the pc coming off with the tape leaveing a big rusty spot.

FFR, why didn't you sandblast the damn frame????

I don't know what to do, just go with it. If I would have known I would have had them send it to me in rust, and I would have had it pc'd myself. Live and learn.

Did you already contact FFR about this? What was the outcome? It seems to me that they either supplied the frame in worse condition than they normally do or someone dropped the ball at the powder coater. Either way, it sounds like the product you received is not their typical quality based on the experience of others in this thread. I would expect them to offer some kind of remedy such as compensation to have the job redone locally.