Rear brake light bulb type

[Frank818]

Can anyone tell me the type of this bulb?
1157? Pxx?

It is the rear brake light bulb.

tnx


Headlight Installation-3.jpeg

[xatudor]

I believe it is a BA15s (found the number on a blister pack), from memory 21W and 5W filaments. Hope that helps

[Frank818]

Yes, that helps! So they have the pins at exact opposites and are often referred to as 1156 or P21W/1156/R5W/R10W.
Like this http://www.bulbtown.com/1156_MINIATU...ASE_p/1156.htm

The 1157 are BAY15d and have axially offset pins.

I'll get myself 2 LED replacement.

[xatudor]

From memory the ones with offset pins are the combination brake/tail light, and have two contact pads (two filaments) on the bottom of the base. The ones with pins exact opposites are single pad (single filament) either wattage. The idea is to stop people putting the globe in backwards and driving around with the tail lights really bright and the brake light not so bright. But idiot proof ideas develop better idiots.

Don't forget to get an electronic flasher if the globe is for the indicator or hazard lights and your changing to LED's.

I would be interested in the cost and where you get them from when you find a suitable LED replacement. The ones I seen in the local auto shop have been ridiculously priced even with trade discounts.

[Frank818]

Those BA15S do not have offset pins but do have dual filaments. They better, otherwise I don't see how FFR can use them in the brake light socket.

I won't need a relay or resistance as I plan on using the ISIS system, it will control all that from configuration within the software. I do use LEDs on my current Corrado and never was able to find an electronic relay for LEDs that was working.

What I have tried now is buy a set of BA15S with 80 SMDs from ebay, about 5 bucks for the set. BUT, I am not sure of the result, cuz they are pure white, around 6000-6500k, which is actually a little blue. This may look somewhat pink through the red lenses. No worries, I have found other sets on ebay and more sets on a "car LEDs" site, but the latter are 10-15 bucks each. I'll do some testing and will let you know (probably on my build thread though). I think I may try on my own Subaru as if I recall my 2005 is using BA15Ss.

[rori]

The brake/taillights are an 1157 w/ offset pins(BAY15d). I have them sitting in front of me.

The reverse light/turn signal is a BA15d LED that is packaged with the kit.

[Xusia]

Why is a some kind of flashing system needed with LEDs? In my experience, when you replace a standard bulb with an LED, the flasher still works, it just "blinks" quickly. This is easily solved with a resister in the circuit. Are things in the automotive world different than the motorcycle world?

Also, (Frank) D6500 is the standard for neutral color temp. D6000 is close enough, I don't think the average person could tell the difference unless they were side-side. D4000 - now THAT's blue!

[Frank818]

BA15D vs BAS15S are quite different. I'll buy a set of Ds as well, anyway I need both for different applications.

Xusia, 8k is blue, 4k is yellowish like the ones on your avatar.

[rori]

Why is a some kind of flashing system needed with LEDs? In my experience, when you replace a standard bulb with an LED, the flasher still works, it just "blinks" quickly. This is easily solved with a resister in the circuit. Are things in the automotive world different than the motorcycle world?

I was wondering why this was included as well. The easiest fix would be to just replace the load-based flasher module with an electronic flasher module. Then everything is plug and play.

[xatudor]

The 'normal' flasher unit uses a bimetallic strip which bends and makes/breaks the contact as current starts/stops through the unit. The ones that are used for LED lights generally are electronic, which just uses a timer circuit (555 timer IC). The flash rate on the bimetallic ones varies by the load on the circuit. That's why if a globe blows the lights flash quicker.

Also BA15 is the size of the lamps base and the D is dual filament and the S is single filament.

[Xusia]

Xusia, 8k is blue, 4k is yellowish like the ones on your avatar.

Sorry, Frank, you are right. I got that mixed up!

The 'normal' flasher unit uses a bimetallic strip which bends and makes/breaks the contact as current starts/stops through the unit. The ones that are used for LED lights generally are electronic, which just uses a timer circuit (555 timer IC). The flash rate on the bimetallic ones varies by the load on the circuit. That's why if a globe blows the lights flash quicker.

Also BA15 is the size of the lamps base and the D is dual filament and the S is single filament.

So why replace the flasher when putting a simple resister in the circuit solves the problem? Seems cheaper and easier to me.

[Frank818]

Sorry, Frank, you are right. I got that mixed up!

Sure, I do as well once in a while!

So why replace the flasher when putting a simple resister in the circuit solves the problem? Seems cheaper and easier to me.

Cuz if you add a resister, you basically kill the electrical consumption advantage of LEDs. LEDs use less wattage for same quantity of lumens, therefore less electrical power, therefore a smaller charge on the electrical circuit. That's the principle of it. Now do you care on flashers and brake lights? Probably not!! It's too small a change in my opinion to affect electrical charge, I mean you won't save much. On headlights yeah, if you go from 55w down to 10w for example. But I am unsure of the real effects on the electrical circuit, I have never tried. All I know is when I turn on my headlights (90w) if my injector pulse and fueling map based on voltage are not set right, I see the engine leaning out or richening out. Cuz I use a stand alone ECU and need to set everything.

In your house it's easy, you'll pay less electricity in the end! But on a car, it's harder to see the effects.