Which fuel tank???

[rcotner]

I have been reading the threads related to fuel tanks. It seems that there is a lot of complaining about the FFR tank and a lot of praise about Boyd's tank. I plan to use an EFI system. What should I do?? It is kind of a bummer to get rid of a perfectly good tank that I payed for with the kit!!

[wallace18]

I know what you are saying. But IMO it is a no brainer. The Boyd tank is superior in every way IMO. I have 2 FFR tanks I did not use. I can't give them away. I tried.

[kraftee]

I know it's late news for you, but for anyone else thinking of ordering a FFR 33 kit, you can get a credit from FFR for the tank when you order your kit. I mean, it's not much, but it's better than nothing and mitigates the price of the Boyd tank some. The only caveat to deleting the tank is that it also deletes the fuel filler, hose, clamps, etc. However, you can have them sell you just that portion of the fuel tank kit. Total credit is around $150.

[BrentM]

I know it's late news for you, but for anyone else thinking of ordering a FFR 33 kit, you can get a credit from FFR for the tank when you order your kit. I mean, it's not much, but it's better than nothing and mitigates the price of the Boyd tank some. The only caveat to deleting the tank is that it also deletes the fuel filler, hose, clamps, etc. However, you can have them sell you just that portion of the fuel tank kit. Total credit is around $150.

I found that out the hard way, looking for fuel fillers that are not made for a boat has been a challenge.

I Have been leaning toward the ATL TF429

Attachment 24075

but at $260 -$290 that is pricey piece of hardware. What has anyone else used?

[Quiny]

I know what you are saying. But IMO it is a no brainer. The Boyd tank is superior in every way IMO. I have 2 FFR tanks I did not use. I can't give them away. I tried.

What has been the issues with the ffr tanks? Is it leaks from poor welds? Does anyone with experience with these tanks think that they can be checked/tested and possibly have suspect welds touched up? I know little to nothing about welding something like a gas tank.

[wallace18]

What has been the issues with the ffr tanks? Is it leaks from poor welds? Does anyone with experience with these tanks think that they can be checked/tested and possibly have suspect welds touched up? I know little to nothing about welding something like a gas tank.

The sender as well as the fuel outlet pipes are below the top of the tank and are submerged in fuel most of the time. If the rubber gasket gets hard and shrinks a fuel leak happens. Welds are fine it is the design IMO. Some have had good luck with differant seals. I did not want to chance it because it is so hard to get to when car is done IMO.

[crspdsk8]

Here is a picture of both tanks side by side. I asked the same question and 99% of the response I got was to go with the Boyd and well worth the investment. Their were a few that have said they have had no problems with the supplied tank. Just like Wallace said, I didn't want to chance having issues as its difficult to get to once the car is done. To me the FFR supplied tank is not designed or built very well. I have heard they are prone to leaks and many have a hard time getting a good tight seal on the fittings. The main issue I see and hear about is the placement of where the fuel inlet goes into the tank. The FFR tank fuel inlet is in the middle of the tank and not at the top. Once your fuel level reaches that point, the pump will shut off and you will have to sit there constantly pulling the handle on the pump to fill it completely. I am a some what of impatient guy so I rather not take 1/2 hour from what I hear to fill the tank. You will see the Boyd tank inlet is towards the top of the tank which makes the most sense and keeps the pump running until full.

[maczter]

Found a fuel filler hose for the 33 with the Boyd tank.

http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Ro...ose%20page.htm

[BrentM]

Here is another one, looks like it will work.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A3GTCK/...=I6O7NDSS4UVPW

Maczster - are you looking for a filler too?

[apillow4]

Hey Everyone,
I know Factory Five is constantly updating their kits based on feedback from their customer community. Does anyone know if the tank issues have been improved or is the Boyd Tank still the way to go?
Thanks

[DaveSL33]

Hey Everyone,
I know Factory Five is constantly updating their kits based on feedback from their customer community. Does anyone know if the tank issues have been improved or is the Boyd Tank still the way to go?
Thanks

After a 9 month back order, I just received their "revised" tank. The filler neck is still mounted in the center, which makes no sense to me. Yes, the tank will work, and the Factory continues to install them on all their Factory builds. However, the main problem I found was in order to service the tank in the future I would need to remove the body to remove the tank from the chassis. I'm not sure if this is because they changed the shape of the tank, but it just doesn’t make sense to me why I would want to remove the body to service the fuel tank. There are ways to mitigate this with an external pump, but the fuel sender is still mounted internally. The last thing I want to do in the future would be to remove the body once it’s complete. Because of this, I elected to go with the Boyd tank. It’s a much better fit and easier to service if needed.

[apillow4]

After a 9 month back order, I just received their "revised" tank. The filler neck is still mounted in the center, which makes no sense to me. Yes, the tank will work, and the Factory continues to install them on all their Factory builds. However, the main problem I found was in order to service the tank in the future I would need to remove the body to remove the tank from the chassis. I'm not sure if this is because they changed the shape of the tank, but it just doesn’t make sense to me why I would want to remove the body to service the fuel tank. There are ways to mitigate this with an external pump, but the fuel sender is still mounted internally. The last thing I want to do in the future would be to remove the body once it’s complete. Because of this, I elected to go with the Boyd tank. It’s a much better fit and easier to service if needed.

Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like I will be going with the boyd tank.

[In33anity]

While you are thinking about it, at least 3 of us (Matthew, Ridetech, myself) moved to a fuel cell from a tank for significantly added safety.

As to the question about fuel filters, check out the XRP line. Much less pricey than the numbers thrown out. I'm running their large body series 70, with a 20 micron filter before the HP pump (bosch motorsport 8 bar) and their series 70 slimline with a 120 micron filter between the pump and the regulator (5 bar). Together I think less than half of what stated above.

Spending a fair amount of time this week finalizing the design of my fuel delivery as need quite a bit for the supercharger. Leaning heavily toward adding a lift pump and swirl tank between the cell and the 20 micron filter and trying to figure out where to squeeze it all in.

[myjones]

If you don't go for the added safety of a cell at least have Boyd make you a tank with a much better design. Make it shorter in length and height so it's remove-able for service after the body is on. You can add dimension on the front to back length and still get any volume you want as their is no conflict in that direction. The shorter in height coupled with (two) vents will ensure that you never have any issues with fill rate.

I'm always amazed when some problems are fixed by a new design while others just as easily fixed are ignored. Do a search or ask around and you will find regrets about removing a body to remove a tank for a problem gauge or a problem pump and decide if you want to take that chance. Rant over
DB

[DonC]

Gents,
I'm reading this thread with tears in my eyes as my 33 just developed a fuel tank leak. It's a 2009 kit with FFR tank and by the looks of it the only way to get it out is to remove the body...or is there an alternative? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks Don

[billjr212]

can you elaborate on how it's leaking? could it be repaired while still in the car by removing either the waterfall or the panel between the tank and the trunk? Do you have a hard top (meaning you would need to remove the hard top and roll bar before removing the waterfall)?

Worst case, I would think you could somehow drain the tank, cut it up, and slip it out through the trunk in pieces and install a new custom tank in through that opening instead.

[maczter]

Gents,
I'm reading this thread with tears in my eyes as my 33 just developed a fuel tank leak. It's a 2009 kit with FFR tank and by the looks of it the only way to get it out is to remove the body...or is there an alternative? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks Don

Don,

Yes, you can remove it without removing the body. You have to take the seats out, then the waterfall, then the aluminum...Dan Ruth (DrRuth) on one of these forums just posted the procedure recently. Let me see if I can find it for you.

Jack

[maczter]

Found this in Dr Ruth's post:

Step one remove one seat.
Step two remove waterfall
Step three remove attachment bolts
Step four remove fuel lines and wires
Step five push tank on angle towards wheelhouse
Step six pull tank out past roll bar tube

[erlihemi]

I have car #640 delivered February 2014. Below is my issue with this tank. Its Upside down in the picture.
IMG_20141221_125258_443 (640x237).jpg

In addition to all the other problems mentioned above I just discovered a new issue this morning. The level shown in the picture is not banana shaped!!
So the tank I have is shaped like a barrel and the top tabs (not in picture) are welded grossly crooked. It would not fit correctly so I set it on the floor thinking I just needed to "pop" the bottom to invert the dome. The welder and sheet metal brake evidently created more tension on this than I realized. After the 3rd try the bottom inverted and then popped back to a barrel. At this point I get a rattling noise inside the tank. Apparently there is a pickup sump that is theoretically spot welded to the tank bottom. With a flashlight I am looking at some anodized piece that:
1) isn't properly prepped for spot welding
2) is obviously cold tacked with insufficient heat/time/amperage settings on the spot welder.

So if this had happened after I was on a road course or going down the drag strip I would be violently unhappy. By the way I had Ford QA training while working as a manufacturing engineer with EATON. I fired Vendors for this stuff.

After I drive my D6 over this I'll take a picture for everyone prior to boxing it up and sending it to Wareham wrapped in Christmas Bow...

[rcotner]

Many folks have punted on the FFR tank and installed the Boyd Welding tank (including me). Does anyone have insight as to why FFR has not fixed these issues with the stock tank? I have had very good support from FF5 and no other significant problems as of yet. The tank stands out as a real, consistent issue. It seem that they would fix it.

[myjones]

Many folks have punted on the FFR tank and installed the Boyd Welding tank (including me). Does anyone have insight as to why FFR has not fixed these issues with the stock tank? I have had very good support from FF5 and no other significant problems as of yet. The tank stands out as a real, consistent issue. It seem that they would fix it.

The 33 seems to be the stepchild. In spite of selling 700 or so in 6 years they haven't done a MK2 and don't seem interested in any real feedback on them. I can't help but think that if Dave had to drive a full fendered 33 for a month as his daily driver it would get a few of the bugs worked out. I think we should issue him that challenge come spring time.
DB

[DonC]

Jack,
You are the man! Oh happy days that the tank can be removed & replaced that simply, you just made my Christmas that much brighter.
Thanks for the information and yes I will replacing it with a Boyd for darn sure.

BTW...I had emailed Dan G. at FFR regarding the procedure and twice was advised to remove the body...glad that was not necessary.

Don

[DonC]

Bill,
From what I can see thus far, from the trunk, it's a seam leak but not 100% sure. The leak is a tiny drip on drivers wheel well side and drips every so slightly down the frame rail into a puddle. I am in process of removing waterfall to expose the tank more completely. The darn tank fittings on the top really make trunk removal impossible so it's the waterfall approach for me now as the better alternative.
BR
Don

12/23/14
Have removed the waterfall and it seems very possible to remove the FFR tank now. The leak has been traced to the wrong size fuel sending unit gasket. There was gobs of black rubber stuff all around the unit which looks to me like a patch job. Today I spent running around trying to get the proper round O'Ring without success. Frankly I don't like the rotating locking ring design that FFR uses that is so gasket dependent for it's seal and will now remove the tank and order a Boyd.

1/5/15
Returned from holiday and have tried every conceivable way of removing the FFR fuel tank without removing the chassis...no way will it clear!!! Finally had to empty tank and cut it into two pieces in order to remove it. Dan at FFR was right...there is no way to remove their tank in a finished car other than to cut it out. The fender well/s obstruct/s it from turning enough to clear the frame and roll bar tubes even if tank is pushed to the extreme outside. Will now order a Boyd tank once I make certain their dimensions will accommodate being installed in a finished car.

[Arm7419]

I just finished changing out the FFR tank for a Boyd tank. You cannot remove the tank from a finished car without cutting it out. I had to cut off both ends of the tank to get it out. It will not come out any other way, period.

Chuck

[DonC]

I just finished changing out the FFR tank for a Boyd tank. You cannot remove the tank from a finished car without cutting it out. I had to cut off both ends of the tank to get it out. It will not come out any other way, period.

Chuck

Chuck,
That is the best move you could have made...it should get rid of any leaks or smells you had with the OEM tank.
Good driving!
Don

[77233349975]

the asymmetrical FF5 hot rod is a( red headed stepchild) IMHO!

[myjones]

I just finished changing out the FFR tank for a Boyd tank. You cannot remove the tank from a finished car without cutting it out. I had to cut off both ends of the tank to get it out. It will not come out any other way, period.
Chuck

Chuck
If you haven't had the Boyd made yet I would add a few upgrades while you still can ???
DB
Hemi33