818Rasmus E Modified

[wleehendrick]

My medical staples are starting to itch. Typing one handed sucks. Wah!

I can relate... after my motorcylce get-off, I had four pins in my right hand for six weeks (and a torso brace for the fractured vertebrae for 12 weeks). As soon as you can, get it moving and start PT.

[Doowop]

great Thread Rasmus.
What amperage are you using for the bucket? 2 Amp? have you try different ones? Awesome way to do it, by the way. Thanks

[Rasmus]

great Thread Rasmus.
What amperage are you using for the bucket? 2 Amp?

Thanks for the compliment. I use 12v@2 amp setting usually. My charger also has 6v@2 amp and 12v@6 amp. I've found that running the charger 12v@6amps for extended periods (more than 90 minutes) tends to trip the overheat-safety on my charger. Then I have to manually reset it. That varies widely depending on the size of my anode and the temperature of the air. I had it set up once with 16 rebars for the anode set in a circle during a Las Vegas Summer. It wouldn't stay on for 20 minutes even on the 12v@2amp setting. YMMV.

[Rasmus]

Shoulder's feeling about 20%. No pain any more, which is nice. Doc had me on a double set of Oxycontin slow release pills and 2 Oxycodone 10mg pills every four hours. Let me tell you, I know why people get addicted. You just feel nice. No problems. And staring at blank walls for three hours is entertainment. Tapered down and now I'm not taking any pain meds.



Two used lateral link bolts and nuts arrived along with a used '97 Legacy knuckle. Bolts look in good shape. The knuckle, not so much. This has got to be the second greasiest, rustiest part I've ever worked on. Came from the Salt Lake area. Looks it too.



The older Legacy knuckle has less webbing above the long lateral link bolt pocket, just below the bearing. See red arrows.



But the dimensions are all the same. Bolt holes the same. Hole spacing the same. I can save it. Knuckle's in the anti-rust bucket as I type.

[Goldwing]

Glad you're feeling better! Sadly, I took a spill today spraining my ankle. My turn to miss some valuable build time. Hopefully I'll be moving, albeit slowly in a few days. This winter has overstayed its welcome. (Slipped on ice while heading over to a hill with my little girl on what would have been her first sled riding adventure). She got to tour the urgent care instead, lol.

[Frank818]

Great for the shoulder! Bot a new ball joint in there! Keep it on!

About the rusted knuckles, you think that's rust? You haven't seen my 8 knuckles! Of course you haven't, I didn't post the pix yet on my thread. On 4 of them the rust is so thick it has formed a yellow and white thick crust. On the other 4, they are completely red with eaten back plates. I'll show that once I post the pix, for the fun of it. My anti-rust bucket is working very very hard to remove that rust, even on the bolts. I am actually testing 10amps as 2amps barely creates bubbles. The part in the bucket is placed 1in from the cathode to maximize current. I plan on zinc plating them in another bucket after that, using zinc sulfate and a zinc plate.

[Scargo]

subarupartsforyou.com lists the part as $127. You can pick it up at your local dealership. Too much? Housing-rear axle, right, 28419FE001 / Housing-rear axle, left, 28419FE011

[Rasmus]

About the rusted knuckles, you think that's rust? You haven't seen my 8 knuckles! Of course you haven't, I didn't post the pix yet on my thread. On 4 of them the rust is so thick it has formed a yellow and white thick crust. On the other 4, they are completely red with eaten back plates. I'll show that once I post the pix, for the fun of it. My anti-rust bucket is working very very hard to remove that rust, even on the bolts. I am actually testing 10amps as 2amps barely creates bubbles.

I don't think the boy from Vegas has a chance in the who's-rusty-is-thicker contest against the boy from Montreal.

I run my bucket at 2 amps. It makes hydrogen bubbles, but it's not like it's a rolling boil that'd fill the Hindenburg. I'm truly interested in how the 10 amps works out. I'll follow along in your thread.

subarupartsforyou.com lists the part as $127. You can pick it up at your local dealership. Too much?

For me it was. It's not just the cost of the knuckles, its the lateral link bolts too. Your website list those for $16 per. So for me it was a choice between $55+elbow grease for used or $159 for new. Even the new knuckle would need some work. I'd have to paint it to match the right side so at least a degreasing. Can't have knuckles that don't match.

[Bill Waters]

Hi, Rasmus; glad you are improving.

I infer from the sequence of photos earlier in your build thread that there is a specific process for seating the wheel bearings/races in the carriers/uprights. (I have only a CD with a fairly basic "factory manual" on it. Very disappointing.) Left to my own devices, I would just press the unit bearing in (pressure applied on the races), respecting the limits set by the machined lip inside the carrier on one end and the snap-ring on the other. Then would gently press the hubs in.

Because the carriers/hubs from my donor are fairly corroded, I opted for new OEM ones and will put new bearings, hubs and seals in them.

If there is a procedure I should know about, is it too voluminous for you to outline it?

Thanks for any help.

Bill

[Rasmus]

Thanks Bill.

Pressing a new bearing in to a 2006 WRX (or equivalent) front knuckle
Note: Bearing goes in from the back side.
Note: I believe new bearings come with a cool little plastic ring on the inside to keep every thing together. Don't remove it until it's time to press the hub in.

1. Lightly grease, with the exact same grease in the bearing, the outside of the outer race and the machined surface the race will be pressed into. By light, I mean get your finger a little dab of grease on it and use only that dab to cover each part. Most of this will get scraped out in the next few steps. But it makes it so much easier than pressing it in dry.
2. Lightly set the bearing assembly race into the knuckle and check with a ruler that it's sitting square in the machined bore.
3. Lightly Load the press on the outer race by use an appropriately wide bearing driver disc (72mm) up a bit and recheck for square. This step is do-you-want-to-buy-another-bearing important.
4. Press the bearing in to the knuckle by pressing on the outer race. I used a 72mm bearing press disc that came in my bearing press kit. Be sure you do this square. The first two pumps on the press are where you'll know if the bearings going in square or if your buying another new bearing set.
5. With my bearing driver set I had to stop short of bottoming out the bearing because the 72mm bearing press disc is just about the right size to get stuck in the bore if you pressed it in there. So for the last little bit where the outer race has been driven past the bore lip but is still not bottomed out I switched to a smaller bearing driver and pressed on the bearings inner race to fully seat.
6. No need to go 20-tons on seating the race fully down. Just one pump past when you feel it hit bottom and you're good.
7. Install snap ring. I like to make sure the tongs of the snap ring are up. Just because I'd like to think there's less chance for the snap ring groove to collect debris or water when the lower portion of it is filled by snap ring. Probably just being overly cautious.
8. Install outer shaft seal into the knuckle. It's the one without the extra lip. Install it correctly orientated. Think, "The cup catches the grease, keeping it inside".
9. Lightly grease the hub's machined surface just like the above step 1.
10. Remove the cool little plastic ring that held the bearing together up to this point. Be mindful the inner races, roller bearing, and cages are just sitting in there with only the surface tension of the grease holding them in. They can fall out. And the first thing they find when they fall is that pile of metal shavings you missed sweeping up.
11. Press bearing (with knuckle surrounding it) onto the hub. Now to press this on, you're going to press on the inner race of the bearing set from back side with probably the same smaller bearing driver disc you used in steps 5 and 6. Do not set the hub on the wheel studs to press the knuckle on. The wheel studs can easily dislodge and get you pressing crooked. Hub needs to be supported by it's flange. If you can't get this. You could try locking all five studs to the hub with junky open ended lug nuts. I, personally, don't have those but hey you might. Though pressing square is important here it's harder to mess up compared to step 4.
12. Stop pressing when the hub has no more play in the bearing. You'll have to keep unloading the press to check. We're not looking to fully seat the hub into the bearing on this step just get it close enough.
13. Install inner shaft seal into the knuckle. It'll seem like there's a gap between the inner portion of the inner shaft seal and the face of the inner bearing race. That's normal.
14. Install axle into hub. Tighten down to 162 ft-lb. Yes, one hundred sixty two. This fully seats the bearing.
15. Post cool pictures of what you did on the internet.
16. Have Bills Waters ask you how you did it.
17. Type a step-by-step list up for Bill Waters.

[Bill Waters]

Many, many thanks, Rasmus. for steps 1 - 15 and especially for willingness to post when pestered by the guy in steps 16 & 17.

I have used rear knuckles/carriers from a 2006 WRX which I won't be needing. Do you prefer them to the ones you sourced? If so, I'll be happy for you to have mine. Let me know.

Thanks again,

Bill

[Rasmus]

Knuckles vs. Carriers vs. Uprights. Must be a regional thing. Like soda/pop/coke.

Right now I'm gonna stick with what I got, but thanks for the thought. If I break another one you'll get a PM from me.

[Frank818]

Yeah I wish I'd be in Vegas, Rasmus... I'd spend less time cleaning my parts. lolll

Actually so far I found out 10amps really does a great job and the bolts (no knuckles tried out yet) don't make big bubbles. Very small ones on the surface. And I have to place them about 2in from the metal plate. It seems it needs some very good current to work well and probably 3 to 6h for the rear long lateral bolts. But it's easy to manually remove the excess if any left, the rust may still show a little, but not stuck hard. Now that I start to get the hang of it, next parts I will post a video to show the difference.

I will also zinc electroplate the bolts and nuts. Like you know, it's the same process as anti-rust, but you have to switch the anode-cathode and use a different mixture with a zinc plate. I am doing all this after I have seen your post when you started cleaning. See how you influence others. lolll

[Rasmus]

And I have to place them about 2in from the metal plate. It seems it needs some very good current to work well and probably 3 to 6h for the rear long lateral bolts.

Did you add 'Washing Soda' to the water? Sodium Carbonate? It helps the water conduct electricity. Only 1 tablespoon per gallon needed. Adding more does nothing but waste the washing soda.

[Frank818]

Yup I added that amount for 4-5gals, so 4-5 tablespoon.
But I fab my own washing soda, I had baking soda and to make it washing soda you have to... bake it! lolll 30mins at 400F. It dries out the water in the formula and makes it baking soda. The problem is I don't know if it really worked...

Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) is Na2CO3.
Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) is NaHCO3.

The way it supposed to work is that at 50C+ sodium bicarbonate gradually decomposes into sodium carbonate, water and carbon dioxide. The conversion is faster at 200C.

Therefore,
2 NaHCO3 → Na2CO3 + H2O + CO2

H2O and CO2 evaporate in the air, leaving you with Na2CO3.

[Rasmus]

Go Science!

I've read, but don't know, that Sodium Bicarbonate is half as effective for this as compared to Sodium Carbonate. It'll still work. Just slower. (I really don't know if this it true or not)

Tell you what. I'll just pop some in the mail for ya. How much of this white powdery substance to you want? I'll package it up nice in an unlabeled zip-loc baggie inside a manila envelope and mail it across our shared international border.

[longislandwrx]

It makes hydrogen bubbles, but it's not like it's a rolling boil that'd fill the Hindenburg.

http://www.amazon.com/dia-Profession.../dp/B0081UGJ9W

to the stars!

Tell you what. I'll just pop some in the mail for ya. How much of this white powdery substance to you want? I'll package it up nice in an unlabeled zip-loc baggie inside a manila envelope and mail it across our shared international border.

sounds legit.

[Frank818]

lolll one must not simply read your last paragraph, Rasmus, without reading the other one first. lolll
I didn't search around yet, but I'm sure there is some washing soda somewhere, I'll take a look. I'd be interested to compare with my baked baking soda. If I don't find any I'll let Vegas know. Cuz you know, what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.

[Jaime]

Lightly Load the press on the outer race by use an appropriately wide bearing driver disc (72mm) up a bit and recheck for square. This step is do-you-want-to-buy-another-bearing important.

This is what mine looks like:
knuckle.jpg

The rotor also has about 0.080 runout at the edge. I have a hard time wrapping my head around how the bearing could possibly sit in the housing that crooked. If I rotate the axle, the wide spot moves with the CV. I removed and rotated the CV and the wide spot didn't move, so it's not the CV.

I also don't like that the front hub doesn't catch the inside inner race as well as the rear hub does. Without a CV, the hub will just fall out if you're not careful.

[Rasmus]

lolll one must not simply read your last paragraph

I'll send you a kilo then. Should last a while.

[Rasmus]

Well this is thrilling. Stewart Transport just called me 20 minutes ago. Scott, the driver, said:

I'm in Kingman, AZ. I'll will be passing though Vegas in about 90 minutes. Want your car? It's in the back on the top.

Yes, please.

[Bill Waters]

I know just how that feels. Congrats, Rasmus.

Like you, I have 2006 aluminum LCAs, and, like you, I completely disassembled them when I was cleaning everything up. I can't find the torque value for the two bolts which hold the steel fitting which articulates with the rear bushing. The closest reference in the build manual gives values that seem way too high - like 140 ft-lbs or so. What values did you use when you reassembled yours?
Thanks,

Bill

[Bob_n_Cincy]

bill
here are the diagrams out of the 06 manual
I think the bolts you are talking about at T11 on the diagram, so 114 ft-lbs

Rasmus, I guess trucking is open all night in Vegas
have fun tonight
Bob

06 tq spec.jpg06 tq spec2.jpg

[Rasmus]

It arrived.


Stewart Transport's Scott backed into my tiny four house cul-de-sac.


Even seeing my name on it, it didn't feel real.


Tucked it in.


All the neighbors came over, even. Must have had 20 humans running around at one point.


Full up. Just wish my shoulder was ready for this. I can only sit in the garage and look at it for the next several weeks. But it's here. It's really here.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congratulations Rasmus,
I know it will be hard, Please let your shoulder get better before you do any wrenching.
Get your kid(s) to help.
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Woohoo! And it begins! Congrats buddy; excited to see how it goes for you.

[Rasmus]

Looks like it's chassis #144.

[Frank818]

Congrats on the delivery!

20 people around? Well that should help build the kit in 3 days!

[Goldwing]

Congrats Rasmus! Staring at mine with a sprained ankle sucks too, lol. I hobbled out and installed my shift bracket a couple days ago. My garage is so cluttered right now, crutches just aren't safe out there. Gave up and hobbled back in. Sigh.

[Canadian818]

Congrats buddy! My shoulder is fine and more often then I'd like to admit, all I can do is stare at it. get well soon, the hard part will be taking it easy once you can work on it.

[longislandwrx]

Just wait until they start coming over and asking if it's done yet.

20 people is 40 hands to sand high build primer!

Congrats!

My knuckles come Thursday so my build is back in 5th gear.

[Bill Waters]

Congratulations, Rasmus; I can empathize - the day my Roadster arrived a few years ago, I was fresh from an ankle fracture requiring a titanium plate and 6 weeks off of it. You will prevail.

Bob - thanks very much for forwarding the info.

Bill

[Rasmus]

my build is back in 5th gear.

Get out of overdrive you slacker. Pop that thing in 3rd and rev to 8000.

requiring a titanium plate and 6 weeks off of it.

I'm on the 6 week thing. Saw the surgeon last week and asked him how much I could load it up.

You can lift up to 1 coffee cup... empty. See you in three weeks and hopefully we'll start you on Physical Therapy after that.

I was bummed. I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

[Santiago]

Very exciting indeed! Thanks for sharing the pics - I kind of get a sense of the surreal experience for you. Wow...it's happening, it's not just an idea...

I've already been following your thread, so I'm looking forward to tagging along till she's complete.

Best,
-j

[Frank818]

I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

Well at least your screws will never rust so you won't need to service them in your anti-rust bucket.

Oh sorry, we're talking about your shoulder, here! lolll

[VD2021]

Congrats!

I'm eager to see this one......

[wleehendrick]

It arrived.

Congrats!

Even seeing my name on it, it didn't feel real.

I know the feeling. After seeing so many deliveries online... wow, this one's mine!

I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

At least you have some cool hardware in you. After my accident, I was disappointed that the four pins in my hand would come out and I wouldn't be left with any metal in me. Removing them was fun... it was out-patient, no anesthetic; just me, the surgeon, and a pair of pliers.

[longislandwrx]

Get out of overdrive you slacker. Pop that thing in 3rd and rev to 8000.

HAHA I chose to wait to get some clean west coast knuckles... the long bolts have already been removed No snap crackle pop here.

[Bill Waters]

I was bummed. I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

Don't worry! You're young and have a number of dangerous acitivities planned....there will be many opportunities for Titanium plates in the future!

[Rasmus]

Based on some formulas from this thread on Nabisco I overlaid how much air my planned 2.334 liter motor can pump at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's (PR). I'm trying to choose the correct size turbo for SCCA's X Prepared class. X Axis is Lb of Air/Min Pumped (Lb/Min). Y Axis is Pressure Ratio (a.k.a. Boost). The colored lines represent how much air can be pumped through the 2.334 liter motor at a given RPM as the PR changes. This is a purely mathematical exercise assuming 100% efficiency at Sea Level Air pressure.

PR of 0.0 = Perfect Vacuum
PR of 1.0 = Zero Boost, Wide Open Throttle
PR of 1.5 = 7.4 psi of boost
PR of 2.0 = 14.7 psi of boost
PR of 2.5 = 22.1 psi of boost
PR of 3.0 = 29.4 psi of boost
PR of 4.0 = 44.1 psi of boost


Here's the GTX2867R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. At 2000 RPM the turbo's starting to get past the surge line (beginning to spool up). Turbo's full spooled at 3000RPM for Pressure Ratios 2.0 - 3.0. Peak HP should hit about 5000 - 5500 RPM, pushing 46 lb/min (460 hp +/- 5%) at PR 2.7. The GTX2867R will exceed it's choke line (a.k.a. gas out) at 7250 RPM pushing 36 lb/min at a PR of 1.5.



Here's the GTX3076R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. At 3000 RPM the turbo's starting to get past the surge line (beginning to spool up). Turbo's full spooled at 3750RPM for Pressure Ratios 2.0 - 3.0. Limiting ourselves to PR's under 3.0 peak HP should hit about 6250 - 7000 RPM at PR from 3.0 to 2.7, pushing ~62 lb/min (625 hp +/- 5%). If limited to a PR's of 2.5 peak HP should hit about 7400 RPM, pushing ~61 lb/min (615 hp +/- 5%). If limited to a PR's of 2.0 peak HP should hit about 8400 RPM, pushing ~56 lb/min (565 hp +/- 5%)The GTX3076R will exceed it's choke line (a.k.a. gas out) at 8800 RPM pushing 46 lb/min (460 hp +/- 5%) at a PR of 1.6.



Here's the GTX3576R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. I'm not doing a written analysis for this one.



Here's the GTX3582R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. At 3800 RPM the turbo's starting to get past the surge line (beginning to spool up). Turbo's full spooled at 4250 RPM for Pressure Ratios 2.0 - 3.0. Limiting ourselves to PR's under 3.0 Peak HP should hit about 7600 - 8300 RPM at PR from 3.0 to 2.7, pushing ~76 lb/min (765 hp +/- 5%). The GTX3582R will exceed it's choke line (a.k.a. gas out) at 10,500 RPM pushing ~62 lb/min (625 hp +/- 5%) at a PR of 1.75.

Overall:
The GTX2867R would seem to be an excellent 'street' turbo. Powerband running from 3000 to 7250 rpm. Boost would almost always be available for the duck and dart of street driving. You won't have to spin a 2.334 liter up to crazyville to use the whole thing.
The GTX3076R is more of the 'track day' turbo. Powerband running from 3750 to 8800 RPM. If caught out cruising in low RPM's you'll experience turbo lag. But if geared correctly, with head work to prevent the valves from floating, you'd have a track-day hero. But you've got to get those RPM's up to use it properly.
The GTX3582R is the 'drag' turbo. Powerband starting at 4250 and continuing up as high as you can spin it. I'm not even sure you could build a Subaru EJ 2.334 to take 10,500 RPM. But you can brag on the internet about how many hp's you' got on the dyno.

Keep in mind you could also adjust these by running larger or smaller A/R turbine housing, to shift the maps a bit.