Donor maintenance questions

[mrprgrmr]

After hemming and hawing about which kit to buy, I found a decent donor for the 818. I was also considering the '65 coupe but I may also need to replace my daily driver soon. Economics and opportunity tipped the scale in the direction of the 818S. So I bought the donor ('02 Turbo) and ordered the kit (delivery 12/2014)! The donor is stock, has low 100k mileage, and runs OK. I think the most serious thing I won't be able to get off the donor is the mirrors.

I am hoping to keep things close to stock. I like the stock seats. I'm ok with the stock wheels, steering wheel, etc. I'm expecting I'll need to source a heat/defrost unit and will install a 3rd brake light. Air conditioning is TBD based on space and complexity. A stereo is a given, though it doesn't need to be anything wild. Then I'll need a few additional gauges on the dash. Now there I go - already deviating from stock! I don't think I am going to win the record for lightest 818. Maybe I can strive for the most comfortable 818 ever built. Any serious performance upgrades can wait until I've built the 818 and see what bugs me.

Now I'm trying to use my enthusiasm to do some pre-planning. Here's what I have so far:

Before Dismantling:

Compression check (done - 150, 150, 150, 140 psi)
Replace plugs (done)
New air filter (done)
Fix check-engine light (in progress - nothing major)
Change oil
Replace accessory belt
Change timing belt
Start and run it once in a while until ready for dismantling

Parts prep
Derust and paint all parts (POR-15?)
Inspect/replace rubber as needed
Replace other wear parts (fuel filter, brake pads/rotors)

I have no experience with Subaru's so I have lots of questions:

• Any point in changing any fluids other than engine oil at this point (brake fluid? I assume I will have to drain/replace everything else during dismantling and assembly.
• I was thinking of hooking up a vacuum/boost gauge to check the turbo condition. If I do this and get boost levels reasonably close to factory spec, can I assume the turbo is OK?
• Should I plan to replace the clutch while I have the engine/transmission out? How long do they typically last on a WRX.
• Other maintenance or minor upgrades that I should do while the engine & transmission are out in the open?

[68GT500MAN]

Depending on where you are located, I would check/change the coolant.
Doug

[Quiny]

Buy a couple of cans of Kroil and start soaking the giant bolt at the bottom of the rear wheel knuckles. You also may want to consider an aftermarket heater setup instead of re-using the stock 2002 wrx setup.

[AZPete]

Change the water pump when you change the timing belt, of course. Break all nuts at the rear suspension loose before you disassemble - and soak the rear knuckle bolts as Quiny said. Yes, replace the clutch disc, and the pressure plate, only because it's easy to do when it's apart.

[mrprgrmr]

68GT500MAN, I think I know what you are talking about. Around here (New England), we call it "anti-freeze" Maybe I'll put in some fresh coolant in when I change the water pump, as AZPete suggested, so I'm not pumping the old sludge through the new pump. (No idea if it makes any difference).

Quiny, I haven't figured out what the pros/cons of an aftermarket heater are... I assume it would be little simpler to set up if it is designed to be installed in a variety of projects, instead of specific to the Subaru body.

Maybe if I start soaking the nuts now, I'll be able to get them apart by late summer? I have a bad record of shearing off stuck bolts and having to drill them out.

[Quiny]

68GT500MAN, I think I know what you are talking about. Around here (New England), we call it "anti-freeze" Maybe I'll put in some fresh coolant in when I change the water pump, as AZPete suggested, so I'm not pumping the old sludge through the new pump. (No idea if it makes any difference).

Quiny, I haven't figured out what the pros/cons of an aftermarket heater are... I assume it would be little simpler to set up if it is designed to be installed in a variety of projects, instead of specific to the Subaru body.

Maybe if I start soaking the nuts now, I'll be able to get them apart by late summer? I have a bad record of shearing off stuck bolts and having to drill them out.

The nuts come off with very little problem its getting the bolt out of the bore that's a bear. I highly recommend having access to an acetylene torch and a press.

[Oppenheimer]

Maybe think about topcoat on the POR-15. It tends to change color when exposed to UV, which I've found eventually happens even to parts you'd think would be hidden from sunlight.

Also, shouldn't you also change the trans fluid? Maybe Seafoam or Techron fuel injector cleaner in the tank, to clean the injectors? Clean the TB, IAC & MAF?

[mrprgrmr]

I actually did clean the MAF with a shot of non-chlorinated brake cleaner. It was completely coated in dust! Funny you should mention the IAC... I think that may be what is causing the check engine light. Tried cleaning it but no luck. I got a replacement but didn't get time to screw it in last night. There was some black build up inside the IAC valve - it's probably everywhere else too. Normally, I steer clear of fuel additives, but it might be worth a shot in this case. If anything, the engine appears a bit neglected more than modified or subjected to abusive driving.

[jontexas]

You may want to invest in one of these:

http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?opt...hk=1&Itemid=53

It'll let you read codes, reflash etc., providing the ECU isn't already locked to a Cobb Accessport. There are cheaper ways to read codes, but this is the cheapest way to reflash.

[mrprgrmr]

Thanks, I've got a cheapo code reader, but I added Tactrix to my notes/wishlist. This looks like it would be helpful if I run into issues that require an more serious analysis.

I've been assuming that if I use the default exhaust setup from FFR including stock CATs and don't modify the intake, I won't need to reflash. Is this a valid assumption? I'll have enough on my plate building my first car and was thinking I wouldn't make any engine enhancements, other than basic maintenance, until after it was on the road. I'm sure it would be easier for an experienced engine builder to set up the engine in its final configuration but I'm not that experienced (yet). I don't see this as a once and done project. I figure I'll keep it as simple as possible to start and will be making improvements for quite a while after I build the basic car.

[SixStar]

Thanks, I've got a cheapo code reader, but I added Tactrix to my notes/wishlist. This looks like it would be helpful if I run into issues that require an more serious analysis.

I've been assuming that if I use the default exhaust setup from FFR including stock CATs and don't modify the intake, I won't need to reflash. Is this a valid assumption? I'll have enough on my plate building my first car and was thinking I wouldn't make any engine enhancements, other than basic maintenance, until after it was on the road. I'm sure it would be easier for an experienced engine builder to set up the engine in its final configuration but I'm not that experienced (yet). I don't see this as a once and done project. I figure I'll keep it as simple as possible to start and will be making improvements for quite a while after I build the basic car.

If you can try and find a home for the stock intake box, if you can't a COBB intake flows 100% the same as OEM requiring zero tuning adjustments.

Also, if I may make a suggestion, while you have the engine out have the heads resurfaced by a machine shop, replace the head gaskets with OEM (or Ishno) head gaskets, and adjust your valve lash. It's not impossible to do in the car but it's a million times easier on a stand. Oh and OEM thermostat only! Everything else is junk IMO.

[jontexas]

Thanks, I've got a cheapo code reader, but I added Tactrix to my notes/wishlist. This looks like it would be helpful if I run into issues that require an more serious analysis.

I've been assuming that if I use the default exhaust setup from FFR including stock CATs and don't modify the intake, I won't need to reflash. Is this a valid assumption? I'll have enough on my plate building my first car and was thinking I wouldn't make any engine enhancements, other than basic maintenance, until after it was on the road. I'm sure it would be easier for an experienced engine builder to set up the engine in its final configuration but I'm not that experienced (yet). I don't see this as a once and done project. I figure I'll keep it as simple as possible to start and will be making improvements for quite a while after I build the basic car.

There's some common mods such as removing the secondary air-pump, TGV delete, evap solenoid delete (I think), that will all raise codes that can be forced to readiness by a tune. Also, you should not run a cat in the up-pipe as these can disintegrate and the shrapnel is ingested by the turbo, destroying it. Deleting this cat doesn't have an impact, but you'll probably delete the sensor in the up-pipe which will need you to add a 2.2kohm resistor to the harness or code it in the stock tune.

[I'll refrain]

[Slatt]

The EGT sensor CAN be retained but without a cat they also tend to fail quickly and will eventually disintegrate and cause that turbo damage. I keep spares on hand and replace it as soon as the EGT reading gets wacky, at that point the removed sensor looks a bit scary. This option might not appeal to most folks but I use an ECU monitor which lets me see the live EGT reading, that's why I bother with it.

Oh, BTW, good re-edit.

[jontexas]

Yeah, discretion, valor etc.

I would say that tuners supplying OTS tunes will include a MAF calibration specific to the intake in use, or they will specify that only their intake was tuned for, and should be utilized. I believe COBB tune for either the stock airbox or a set of mods including their own intake, and I know that Torqued Performance tune for AEM, AVO, COBB, K&N, Perrin, stock airbox, etc. The ECU will work around intake differences, but it's pretty coarse adjustment.

[mrprgrmr]

Well, the CEL is fixed. It was a bad idle control valve. I changed the oil and I just ordered a timing belt kit, water pump, etc. I'll get that in, make sure it runs well, and then start taking things apart again. I will consider running without the cat in the up-pipe. Something I read suggested running an exhaust temp gauge to exhaust header nearest the rear passenger side cylinder. I'm thinking that would make the factory EGT sensor redundant and I could "replace" it with the resistor (no?). I am trying hard to resist making too many modifications, so I may do that later on. My 818 delivery date got moved sooner, (yay!) so I'm reconsidering my leisurely pace of fixing up the donor - not that there is any deadline on actually finishing the build.

Oh yeah, does my idea of hooking up a vac/boost gauge to evaluate the turbo seem reasonable? I still need to order the gauge but I'm not really sure how else to check it out, except that it makes a cool whirring turbo noise when I rev the engine.