Type 65 - question - power windows?

[Jester]

I just completed my FFR Mk4 (with Coyote) and I am looking for my next project. I am considering the Type 65 coupe (IRS & Coyote with A/C, PS & PB).

Question - Is there a mod for the doors to allow for glass power windows, or is there a window kit or DIY power window plans? This would be a big selling point for me.

Having built the Mk4, I am convinced that the FFR 65 Coupe can be as good or better than any other coupe replica but my build plan is a modern tribute with some creature comforts (primarily power windows with A/C).

From the videos on line, I see the Superformance Coupe has some nice creature comforts with power windows etc. This would be great in the Type 65.

Thx

[68GT500MAN]

I have seen FFR Type 65 coupes with air conditioning, but never power windows. I believe that it still comes with sliding side windows (plastic) that do keep some of the wind out. Driving one in the summer of 2009 I can agree that the AC would be a great option (it was 105 that day). Maybe the power windows from the Hot Rod could be made to fit.
Doug

[loeffler1]

At one time Gordon Levy was working on a kit. I don't know if it ever got off the ground. Chime in here Gordon.
If you research the archives I also think someone else did actually complete a roll up window installation. Don't remember whether it was power or not.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Here is the homemade power window thread along with a video demonstration.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-...r-windows.html


Jeff

[tirod]

It's going to be a very custom installation. The kit offered at one time wasn't cheap - but it did solve a lot of the development headaches.

First, inserting glass into guides inside a door that has zero provision for it. It's going to take slotting the top of the door where none exists. Angling the guides to point the glass to meet the roofline is complicated by the interior steel reinforcement.

To solve that, one builder used a production door assembly and just reskinned it with the outer shell from the kit. With the amount of fabrication needed, that might be a better alternative. You also get all the interior door handle locations and it's all engineered to factory standards. (I've been researching it when it comes up - there are alternatives.)

With that in mind, buying two used doors with all the trimmings from a salvage yard means paying about 25% of an aftermarket window kit. That economic reality is why a lot of stuff in the kit industry doesn't hit the market. It's the "hot rod" factor, same as 1950. Rather than deal with the issues inherent with building a bigger flathead, lots of rodders installed a Cadillac and bypassed the extra work. Instant inches.

I see it as the better option - adding the Coupe door skin to an existing developed factory door frame with window glass and all the internals in good working order is going to be massively easier than reinventing what the makers already did. In this case, a relationship with a salvage yard that will allow you to freely wander and measure things is going to pay off. Unless someone has a internet link listing all door data - dimensions, glass size, hinge and lock locations, etc. its going to be hands on research. I have no doubt the best door candidate will likely have the worst aesthetic look to it's hardware, tho, and that will complicate things.

[Hankl]

It would be much easier if you did away with the option of a power window, and did what the Porsche Factory race team did.
They fabricated a manual system, where a leather strap was attached to the bottom of the window, and a system of holes in the leather strap,
and a peg attached to the door allowed the driver to position the window at different levels, very simple, and extremely effective.
We have the benefit of Velcro, so it would be a more secure system.



Hank

[Pike]

I love that

[HCP 65 COUPE]

That strap setup could be powered pretty easy, with a idler pully at the top inside the door and a motor and pully mounted low in the door. The strap could just wrap around the motor pully until the window reaches the top. You may need a few light long tension springs to help the unwind. But I think it would be the simplest way to get the window up and down under power.
Damn this Forum has added years to my build plan

[Austexican]

I love it! It's simple. It's elegant. It adds no weight. It corresponds to racing practice of the period. It can be color coordinated with the leather door retainer strap on my coupe. It provides better weather protection than the sliding Lexan panel supplied with the kit. It's constructed with brown steer hide of which we have no shortage in Texas. It's perfect.

Please tell me Hankl how you modified the door and interior panel to accommodate this modification.

[Plebeian]

Hank, that is awesome. I wonder why nobody has brought that up before. Cheers.

[John Dol]

Hank,

Is that on a coupe, or a pic of the Porsche?
If it's on the coupe please show a few more pics from the outside too.

Thanks,

John

[Hankl]

John,

It's a picture of a 74 911 Carrera, it is what I intending on doing to my Coupe. Basically, if I recall correctly, you need 11 inches of window movement. There is more that enough room
within the door structure to do this. The door frame is attached to the inner skin of the door, and the angle of the window travel would miss the frame, and allow more than
enough travel inside the door skin for this to happen. I'm using 3/4" x .120 flat bar to make the window frames, with a fixed wing window at the front.

Hank

[tirod]

I knew about those and had it on the list of possibilities. Very "prototype" and definitely period. The stud fastener is definitely secure. There's another take, the Subaru SVX had a fixed upper with powered pocket window instead of a slider. Vent wings have been discussed, too, and they would be part of the front window channel structure. Since it's a Jag windshield it's not impossible to duplicate the angle.

Gets complicated, don't it?

[John Dol]

It's a cool idea, thanks for posting.
Is that the pull cord to start it on the left?

John