So I'm just wondering if I should go with the base kit and save the money if I'm am planning on using the coyote motor from a 2011 mustang, or spend the extra and get the complete kit. Feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Adrian
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So I'm just wondering if I should go with the base kit and save the money if I'm am planning on using the coyote motor from a 2011 mustang, or spend the extra and get the complete kit. Feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Adrian
It all depends on what your goals are. The complete kit (from what I've heard) uses quality components. Although there have been some problems with some of them. You wrote one check, get one big delivery, and you pretty much ave everything you need.
OTOH, it's kinda fun shopping for parts. You get to pick every little part and component. Save money here, spend money there. And you get to come home in the evening and see what the Big Brown Truck brought you. Kinda like Christmas all year long.
Also, you can spread your costs out over a couple of years.
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
www.RacingTheExocet.com
I would go with the complete kit, plus you'll need the coyote package which includes the proper headers, footbox pieces, etc. You also need the coyote J-pipes unless you plan on a set of the aftermarket pipes which are now available. You will be using the FRPP control pack for the computer harness, so just delete the efi harness from your complete kit. Use the 4.6 modular motor mounts and probably driveshaft, depending on which tranny you choose. You will need the Moroso FFR coyote oil pan which is quite a lot shallower than the stock one, and the matching oil pickup tube. Hope this helps. I am in final stages of building a coyote powered coupe, and it has been a hoot! The car is a beast. Can't wait to get it on track...
Check out my build thread in the 65 coupe section for moe info and photos.
-T
Coyote powered Daytona Coupe Competition Racecar #21
Challenge series #21
FFR 33 Hot Rod
2009 3rd place NorCal series
2010 3rd place West Coast series
2011 2nd place NorCal, 2nd place West Coast Series, 3rd place WERC class E1
If your state does not require emissions, I highly recommend the headers from Stainless Headers instead of the shorty/j-pipe solution from FFR.
MK3.1 #7076 - Under Construction....
Coyote 5.0/Solid 8.8/Tremec 3650
How to:
Coyote Power Steering
05-09 T3650 in a Roadster
Can you buy the complete kit and remove items?
That would make the incomplete kit, lol No, they only give you 2 choices...base or complete....and options/upgrades of course, but no substitutes.
So I guess I could buy the base kit and add the extra items I need?
Last edited by bansheekev; 01-27-2013 at 05:58 PM.
MKIV, IRS/TruTrack/3.55s, Coyote, TKO600, Wilwoods
Delivered: 1/6/2012
First Start: 1/19/2014
First Go-Kart: 2/1/2014
Graduation: 1/4/2015
Graduation Thread
Just chiming in... I built with a Coyote and purchased the Complete Kit. I would probably do this again, BUT, there are a number of parts that aren't used, and a whole bunch that are still needed that aren't in the Complete Kit. I think this is probably a general statement, and not specific to building with the Coyote as the engine. I actually thought the complete kit would have 99% of what I needed, but that didn't end up being the case. I have a big binder full of receipts for parts to prove it!
So why would you go with the complete kit again if a lot of the stuff was not used? I mean the difference between the 2 kits is $7000, what out of the complete kit did you use? And of those parts did the value add up to $7000.
I just posted in the ask a factory five tech and they said everything you need comes with the kit, you have to specify a coyote and order a couple of extra parts. Did you have the mk3.1 or mkiv kit?
Last edited by agepag; 01-29-2013 at 06:53 PM.
If you decide to go w/ the base lit one upgrade I would definately make is to get the FFR front spindles. These are their own design and give all the geometry advantages of sn95 w/ the SAI mod but in a nicely designed single piece.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
I'd have to look back to double check on what parts weren't needed, but there were quite a few (Coolant overflow tank was one I recall as it would be silly not to use the one that comes with the coyote) but more so was the fact that while they do have a list of parts that they supply in order to use the Coyote, there are a number of parts you will run into that you need, that are not specified or available from Factory Five. I ordered the MKIV back in May of 2012. I know they've updated the list since that time, but even when I went out and ordered all the parts they suggested, I ended up not needing all of them, and needing others they didn't provide. Please don't misunderstand me. I'm very pleased with the kit, and the products supplied by Factory Five. I think the simple fact is that the Coyote is a new option, and they just haven't pulled together a comprehensive list of everything that is needed. This seems a bit common as there were certainly a lot of things not included in the COMPLETE kit that I needed to purchase that weren't dependent upon the Coyote either. Keep in mind that you are building a car yourself... Factory Five does a ton of things to simplify the process, but it isn't quite a lego kit (Not insinuating that you thought it was!)
Thanks for all the info, I gave myself 2 years from now to get things together. I will be looking for the coyote donor and I think the prices should be dropping as more and more people start to crash there cars (I'm not wishing anything bad to happen to anyone). I will be ordering my 4 post lift this summer and by time I am ready for the kit I'm hoping more people have used the coyote and ff modify their kit accordingly.
Very cool! BTW, while a 4 post lift would be a neat thing to have, please know that it is in no way required to build these cars.
Ok... now I'm jealous! That would be very handy. Take care, and all the best with the plans and the build when the day comes. It's -40 degrees where I live today, but had some friends over who wanted to hear the roadster running... It was good to hear it again, though it seems like a long time until driving days are here.
Thanks, I just have to find the right doner, prices on coparts are crazy, hopefully they will come down a bit in the next year.
Here is how I look at the "base or complete kit" dilemma. The base kit is best for lower budget/donor cars (around $25k or less) or high end cars ($45k+). On the lower budget, you save by using lots of donor parts. On the high end cars, you often are upgrading or modifying a lot of parts. You will spend more time sourcing parts (the complete kit is pretty much a one stop shop), but you will get the specific parts you want. The complete kit is best for cars with a budget in the range of $35-40k. A mid range build, typically not going overboard with upgrades or modifications. Do you plan to use lots of used parts? New parts, but mostly stock? Or use high end & specialty new parts? All 3 directions and budget levels will produce a really nice car. Engine options are the same for any route, and really only factor into the overall budget you can afford.
I hope that helps.
I guess I haven't really decided if this will be a budget build or mid/high end build, but I have to see what extra you get in the complete kit that would warrant the extra $7000. I don't know what all comes in the complete kit, but I do not want the rims, gauges and being from Canada I am limited to what rear end I can buy, I don't even think i can order the complete kit because transport Canada has certain regulations. I will look into this further since I have time, like I said I would like to find the donor and tear it apart then order the kit. Time to save up my pennies!
You will start out budget and end up high end, depending on how fast you build it. I have been working on mine for four years now and the longer I go the more mods I do and the nicer I want to make it... If I were to build another I would use a base kit and you could still use a combination of rebuilt parts and new. JJ
I'm contemplating the same. Definitely know I want to go with the coyote setup and am hoping to go with newer parts. I don't think I want to use a donor car because of the potential for issues and the scrapping effort involved. That being said, I'm finding the upgrades I'm interested I, especially with suspension and braking, are driving the final build estimates to 50k or more...yikes! The upgrades are definitely where FFR makes better margins. If I want pretty much new parts all around, what approach makes the most sense?
Sorry to bump my old thread but I was looking at a some 2011 donor cars and was wondering if it was worth buying one or just buying a coyote motor, I mean what else could I use from the car besides the motor? I may make some money back selling parts, but I don't want to turn my garage into a salvage yard! Can I use the rear end and the brakes from the mustang in the roadster? I could sell off the interior if its in good enough shape and the transmission and make some money back that way....any thoughts?