nkw8181's 818 build thread

[nkw8181]

Also I let my alternator fall off a chair and busted it up. Thoughts on how to proceed? buy used? buy new? If I buy new should I get something different? Can it be fixed?

[JeromeS13]

It's fine. That only serves as a guard to keep things out.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Also I let my alternator fall off a chair and busted it up. Thoughts on how to proceed? buy used? buy new? If I buy new should I get something different? Can it be fixed?

From what we can see in picture, it is good to go.
The copper wires on the inside are covered with some enamel insulation. Do you have any scratches on the wire insulation? If so, send me a close up picture to look at. You can buy some brush on insulation if necessary.
Bob

PS If you decide to take it apart. The is a trick to putting them back together. There is a small hole that you can put a stiff wire into hold the brushes out of the way during reassembly. Very difficult without this.

[Rasmus]

Alternator should work fine. Don't stick your fingers in there while it's running.

[Mechie3]

Take it apart, grind off the sharp edges. paint it, put it back together.

[JeromeS13]

I think Rasmus did this to his and saved like 5 grams?

[MrDude_1]

I think Rasmus did this to his and saved like 5 grams?

well.. he will NOW... lol.

[Rasmus]

Intentionally broke off alternator's case fins. Thanks for the idea Nolan. Saved 5 grams!

[D Clary]

I bought one from ebay, less than a hundred bucks brand new. Clean saved 2 grams.

[MrDude_1]

Intentionally broke off alternator's case fins. Thanks for the idea Nolan. Saved 5 grams!

I dont know what the stock alternator weighs on the subaru, but I know my old GM alternator weighed 14 something pounds, and my "lightweight" 40amp replacement alternator weighed 6lbs.

but I am full of bad ideas.

[Pearldrummer7]

I dont know what the stock alternator weighs on the subaru, but I know my old GM alternator weighed 14 something pounds, and my "lightweight" 40amp replacement alternator weighed 6lbs.

but I am full of bad ideas.

The alternator-weight discussion happened on Rasmus' thread a while back, actually (here).

My vote is on using it, but if you really need to get another one, they're found in junkyards very readily from what I've seen.

[Rasmus]

I dont know what the stock alternator weighs on the subaru.

5.378 kg.

It's a good idea Dude. Great place to save weight.

[Hindsight]

It's a good idea Dude

When you keep saying that, I cant decide if you are addressing him or quoting The Big Lebowski

[Rasmus]

Yeah, well, that's just, like, your opinion, man.

[nkw8181]

Whoo hooo the manifold is back together as well as having the addition of Craig's version 2.0 cooling bracket. The bracket has plenty of clearance. Also I've seen others using this picture hosting site so thought it might be easier then resizing on my home computer.

http://imgur.com/a/x3GxQ

[Hindsight]

Looking good! You can copy/paste the links from the right side of the screen on imgur, into your message body so the pics appear in the message. It is more work.... since you have to do it for each pic, but just FYI. If you do it, use the link captioned "BBC Code".

[nkw8181]

So started installing the awic.


I'm thinking of painting the intercooler the same as the manifold.

[nkw8181]

I started on the brake lines. For now I'm going by the "manual" but couldn't remember if there was anything vital to watch out for or that should be done different? Once it is done I may change it up but gotta start somewhere.

[nkw8181]

It has been a bit since I updated and I've got a bit done so here is an update.

-modified clutch slave cylinder to allow the clutch cable to mount from the driver side.


-Clutch and Brake lines ran (fronts still need mounting locations drilled)

-Mocked up shifter


-Installed shifter cables on trans

[nkw8181]

-Ran rear/side part of cooling system.



-Installed radiator mount.


http://imgur.com/a/jYbrF

[Wayne Presley]

Looking good Nolan

[nkw8181]

Thanks Wayne as well as for your help.

[nkw8181]

Got some updates. the Radatior is temp installed (waiting on bushings), AWIC heat exchanger installed. I started putting the wiring in and very quickly came to the conclusion that I only want to do that once. That combined with the fact that as Wayne said it would be better to have it running before modding the harness. Run, mod, check if still running and repeat. I have a few holes to drill out for some rivnuts as well as checking the routing for the AWIC hoses. Wayne I am going to try running the hose under the aluminum tubing next to the brake/clutch lines. So my question is to all you fine builders out there is are there any other frame mods that I should undertake prior to powder coating? one addition is I still need to figure out how to finish out the center console. thoughts ?

[nkw8181]

[Frank818]

Shifter: You put the plate under the alu tunnel cover? I didn't think about that, too late now, I have cut a huge hole already, just did this afternoon. It still looks good with the plate over the alu, I think.

Console: Which center console version you got? The old FB is the new alu? I am currently installing it. What consumes most of the time is figuring out where I am going to cut to keep the shifter exposed. I might even bring the slope forward of the shifter, instead of just after. Anyway you can't leave it after, unless you want to cover most of the shifter.

[GUNS]

Your rear flexible coolant hoses need to be shortened or else they will interfere with the rear wheel well aluminum. Looking good though!

[nkw8181]

Thanks guys. GUNS will do on final assembly. Frank I have the sheetmetal one. Since ill be modding the harness anyway I'll do away with the vertical and make my own further back as Wayne suggested to me. It may be as small as a 5x5 in tunnel.

[nkw8181]

So as I'm taking things apart I wanted to see how a few more panels fit. Here are some pics of my engine floor panel. Is it to narrow? There is a gap on both sides. Also I have a second panel that is suppose to go from the engine floor panel to the diffuser. Anyone got pics of how to install the diffuser? While I'm at how about front splitter install pics?

[nkw8181]

How does this panel mount

[Santiago]

I thought I saw the same side-gap on Chad's engine floor panel, so this just seems to be the way those panels are supplied. Not the best, but likely dictated by readily available sizes of the sheets. You might want to look at his thread (Plavan) for his mounting solution.

Best,
-j

[nkw8181]

I'll check it out on reassembly. Got sidetracked "again" on my disassembly and installed some rivnuts for the center tunnel. Also the stock ebrake cable bracket came in so I placed the ebrake about where I want it. Will put the seat in tonight to see. I suspect that I will end up mounting that ebrake at downward angle under the aluminum to make the handle closer to level.

[nkw8181]

Can't forget pics

[nkw8181]

He is the solution I came up with for.my ebrake, which I am very happy with. I also got the rest of the car stripped. I have a "few" more rivetnuts to install from underneath (not fun). In the teardown temp installed the VCP trailing arms just to see how they look/fit.

[nkw8181]

I don't think my ebrake mounting will be moving :-)

[Frank818]

Nice solution, similar to one I had in mind. Which all changed once I saw your pix.

Cuz that just showed me I am going to have 2 major problems: My ebrake cables are not like yours, I don't have those metal clips close to the end, so I cannot attach the FFR cable brackets to them. I don't know why, I ordered new 2003 cables from online subaru parts. That's going to be a challenge. Second thing, my shifter is much further back than yours, the shifter's rod is slightly backwards of the transverse bars in front of the seats. Which means my ebrake handle will most probably hit the shifter since yours is quite close already.

Oh well, probably 10 to 20h to fix all this.

[wleehendrick]

Oh well, probably 10 to 20h to fix all this.

Or get a Lokar ebrake!

[Frank818]

Don't want to hijack Nolan, but let's say he would see a different option (even though he has found and built something great already).

The Lokar is 10in long, I don't know if that's going to fit. I don't even know how long my 2003 handle is.
If the Lokar fits, great, but it's over $100+shipping and then you have to buy the cables probably, as it may not fit with the Subaru's for which mine don't fit anyway the FFR brackets. Another $100++shipping. But in the end if I can't do anything with the stock brake....... money will be the only option to fix it. And I don't think hydraulic drift brakes are good, they are not meant for parking.

[wleehendrick]

The Lokar is much smaller than the Subie and can be made to work with the OEM cables; that's the main reason I went for it. Nolan did a nice job fitting the OEM handle, but the Lokar is a relatively easy install if you want to avoid the fabrication, which is why I mentioned it. Wayne posted a how-to someplace, so if you any questions, lets take the conversation there.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is it just me, our does this thread load very slowly?
I like your e-brake mod, may try something similar.
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

What was wrong with how FFR tells you to mount the ebrake (as I'm about ready to do this and would like to know if there are issues). Also I noticed you ran the tunnel aluminum on to of the k-tuned shifter plate, how did you deal with the gap at the bottom (floor) since its like a 1/4 short now ?