Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build

[Canadian818]

I follow the build and think the 13B is the perfect powerplant for the 818.

Thanks Wayne! It means a lot that you say that. I often doubt myself that the 13b is worth all this effort, telling myself that it will really suit the 818. Having never driven one or anything similar it's all just theory really. But knowing your history with FFR, the 818, racing lotus', and from what I gather the 13b, it's a huge boost of confidence.

Making some progress on the coolant system. Everything is rolled, cut, fitted, except for the passenger side rear up to the engine. I'm welding in a tube that intersects the t-stat piping and goes strait up with a rad cap on top. Once that's done I can move on to the next task. I won't be securing it until after I get my constant tension clamps. A total of 14 are required.







I finished my clutch line as well. My flex line is 3ft long, and I secured it so I can switch from a push clutch to a pull clutch when installing my RA transmission without issue at a later date. I've also installed my Zero Decibel shift linkage. Is there any advice on adjusting the cables? I feel lost, hard to get my head around it.



And finally, does everyone have this gap after mounting the windshield frame? I can push it down if I wanted to rivet it in place. Should I keep readjusting until it lays flat? FYI my pic sucks, but I can just get the tip of my finger in under, so maybe 3/8" gap.

[Wayne Presley]

Thanks Wayne! It means a lot that you say that. I often doubt myself that the 13b is worth all this effort, telling myself that it will really suit the 818. Having never driven one or anything similar it's all just theory really. But knowing your history with FFR, the 818, racing lotus', and from what I gather the 13b, it's a huge boost of confidence.
And finally, does everyone have this gap after mounting the windshield frame? I can push it down if I wanted to rivet it in place. Should I keep readjusting until it lays flat? FYI my pic sucks, but I can just get the tip of my finger in under, so maybe 3/8" gap.

You have quite a bit to do before worrying about where the windshield frame goes. The side pods and doors have to be done first.

The 13B with moderate boost can make 400 RWHP and will make good power from 5000-10,000 RPM which will allows the transmission ratios a wide range of speeds and overlap.

[Wayne Presley]

Here is a Toyota Starlet with a 13B running 31 psi making 645 RWHP/443 RWTQ on my dyno.

[Mechie3]

Adjust the cables so that your shift knob is centered when in neutral. You can slightly adjust ratios on the left/right motion by choosing different pairs of holes in the bell crank (three different ratios possible).

[Canadian818]

Here is a Toyota Starlet with a 13B running 31 psi making 645 RWHP/443 RWTQ on my dyno.

Wow, look at how smooth that is. Do you remember what turbo was on it?

[Canadian818]

Adjust the cables so that your shift knob is centered when in neutral. You can slightly adjust ratios on the left/right motion by choosing different pairs of holes in the bell crank (three different ratios possible).

Thanks Mechie, I'll try that!

[Wayne Presley]

Wow, look at how smooth that is. Do you remember what turbo was on it?

Gt4276 Garrett. 115 ar on exhaust

[Canadian818]

Whoa, that's a big boy turbo for sure! My "little" 8374 should put me in the mid 300's around 1bar, and hopefully low or flat enough torque as to keep my 5mt alive for awhile.

[Wayne Presley]

Car ran 5.0xx in the 1/8th mile.... and 8.00@167mph in the 1/4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZEL2bBZvck

Did I mention the ear splitting wail it makes at 10,000 rpm ?

[Canadian818]

Car ran 5.0xx in the 1/8th mile.... and 8.00@167mph in the 1/4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZEL2bBZvck

Did I mention the ear splitting wail it makes at 10,000 rpm ?

That was an impressive run! It must be heavily ported though, and obviously an open exhaust. My initial plan is a high flow cat and no muffler. But with stock ports and IWG it shouldn't be too bad.

[Harley818]

Adam, don't worry about the windshield gap. Mine is the same and all my body panels fit great with the windsheild.

[Frank818]

Same windshield gap here.
10kRPM, that's awesome.

[Canadian818]

Thanks guys, guess I'll leave it until I mount the body. Got called away for work for a bit, missing the garage already! Hopefully back at it real soon. I need to get the body started so I can order a A2A intercooler core and an oil cooler. Both will be mounted behind a rear wheel with ducting from in front of each wheel. I need the body on so I can figure out sizing and plumbing. I've been spending my hotel time figuring out as much as I can about what's ahead of me with regards wiring. I'll be using a painless 21 circuit universal harness, and the AEM Infinity's universal mini harness. The aem harness only comes with basic wiring, but it has a 80-pin connector and supplied pins so I'll add as required. I expect to hit a number of wiring road blocks, realizing things I need to order, etc. Should be a learning experience that's for sure!

[Harley818]

you could be dieting your subaru donor harness in the hotel room! time would fly by!! took me a long time.

[longislandwrx]

I love starlets, and now I'm missing my rx7. nothing like revving it to 8000 in third gear, letting off the gas and lighting the afterburner

[RetroRacing]

Our EP cars pull 9500, lift, flame, Pow, awesome! The Peripheral port tri-rotor is pretty awesome sounding as well.

[Canadian818]

Now just imagine those flames coming out of a high, centred, zonda style tip! Except mine is three tips instead of four. You guys got me excited now!

[Frank818]

So Adam, are you now cranked up enough (à la Jason Statham) to make a huge progress in a short time?

[Canadian818]

So Adam, are you now cranked up enough (à la Jason Statham) to make a huge progress in a short time?

I dunno about that level of "cranked", but I'm expecting to make steady progress from here on out. Got back at it for a few hours today and finished up fabbing my coolant system. Just waiting on some clamps before vacuum testing it.







Next up is to finish the "temp" fuel system, finish cleaning up the manifold and mount it and the turbo. Then finish the oil and coolant lines to it. Then it's finally time to mount the body. Hope to be doing that next week!

[STiPWRD]

I dunno about that level of "cranked", but I'm expecting to make steady progress from here on out.

Get as much done while the baby is still immobile! Once they start crawling and walking, free time kinda goes out the window (mine just turned 1). I'm enjoying watching your build as well, keep up the good work.

[Frank818]

Yeah, steady progress, THAT's your goal!

You are going to pour coolant through that nicely home made pipe? And where's the reservoir going to be?

[Canadian818]

Get as much done while the baby is still immobile! Once they start crawling and walking, free time kinda goes out the window (mine just turned 1). I'm enjoying watching your build as well, keep up the good work.

Oh I know all about it, I have another turning 8. One is finally fairly self serve and the next one is taking over. And as much as I love my car, it will always come second. Today we went to the fair! Oh and thanks, I'm trying!

Yeah, steady progress, THAT's your goal!

You are going to pour coolant through that nicely home made pipe? And where's the reservoir going to be?

That's the plan! I have a 16psi rad cap for there, and I'll put a 20psi cap up front so I don't need a front reservoir. The reservoir will be on the drivers side of the engine somewhere, perhaps on the firewall. Too much heat already on the right side.

[Canadian818]

Worked for a few days, but got back in the garage today. I spent most my time on my turbo manifold, porting and smoothing. I need to order my AEM RTD egt sensors and full-race studs before I can finally mount the turbo and start plumbing it in. Speaking of plumbing, I ordered the wrong clamps, so it'll be at least a week before I can check that off the list. It was getting too hot to be covered in metal shavings so I started some spring cleaning in the garage and dug out some body panels. It's so motivating seeing the body on! I'm going to keep the car on the dolly for a little longer, despite my urge to put it out in the sun just because it's so much easier to work on. Few pics for everyone...





I'll get my flares out tomorrow, jack up the wheel, and see if they'll work. I'm pretty sure I promised Kurk818 a pic of that like 6 months ago, lol.

I also picked up this madness....



...and ordered all my AEM wiring and coils. I'm slowly sorting out what other little things I'll need before starting wiring, like sensors, pig tails, specialty tools etc. I expect to hit lots of road blocks being my first time tackling wiring on this scale. So I'll go back and forth between body/wiring/plumbing for the next while.

[BN]

http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/po...A3B40.jpg.html Allo what's that sprayer on the floor for ?.

[Canadian818]

http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/po...A3B40.jpg.html Allo what's that sprayer on the floor for ?.

It's an el cheapo vacuum bleeder for clutch/brakes.

[Frank818]

Fatty tires.
You got the same trash bin I have. Who cares, eh? lolll
It says "painless" on the box. Let's see about that...

[Canadian818]

I'm not expecting it to be painless, lol.

So these flares won't work. They're suited to a much smaller diameter wheel/tire.



However if I choose to make my own, they would be useful at the leading edge.





But I have another thought, and I could really use some advise as I've never really played with fiberglass before. I'm not sure how much it will bend or flex before breaking. What if I cut down the center of this ridge...



...which is now about a 0.5" wide, and spread it to be about 2" wide at the back? Obviously a few relief cuts on the bottom of the sil behind the door would be needed. Would it be possible to bring the fender out enough to clear the tire? How hard would it be to then fill that strip at the top? Any feedback, suggestions, comments welcome. In the mean time, I'm going to start scouring the Internet for much larger flares.

[Canadian818]

Just found these, measurements seem good. I understand most people here hate this style flare, but I don't mind it at all. If it works, it's a much easier solution, which would probably be the first time this build I took that route.

[BC Huselton]

Yes you can do that from that spot you are pointing to. You will have to cut and add space to the rear bumper to have it match up. It will end up looking far better than stick on flares..IMO. I did it to the fronts and gained an 1.5" of clearance.

It is not that complex, but it does require a structured template that holds it in place while you glass it in. It also requires a Filler Contour blade that you can make to assure the curve transitions smoothly.

Call me @ 843 342 5471 and I can help you with it if you like.
Front wheel Opening.jpg

[Canadian818]

Yes you can do that from that spot you are pointing to. You will have to cut and add space to the rear bumper to have it match up. It will end up looking far better than stick on flares..IMO. I did it to the fronts and gained an 1.5" of clearance.

It is not that complex, but it does require a structured template that holds it in place while you glass it in. It also requires a Filler Contour blade that you can make to assure the curve transitions smoothly.

Call me @ 843 342 5471 and I can help you with it if you like.
Front wheel Opening.jpg

I'm glad someone thinks it possible. I know many people have made fiberglass flares by shaping foam on the outside of the fender, but I just feel like they would never be even. At least this way I'd only be stretching a flat spot. It should also make it much easier to have even gaps to the trunk lids as that strip would be relaxed.

Here's my thinking on the process. Do a rough alignment. Fix the panels square to the car, with even gaps to the deck lids. Attach the bumper to the rear bottom frame. Cut along the flat spot I pointed to, cut some relief cuts on the bottom side sil behind the door. Then I'll unbolt the rear bumper and use a piece of thin flatbar to offset bolt it to the bumper holding it out. Then add a brace or to along the gap, and put a strip of cardboard along the underside of it. Glass it from the top, filling it in. Before sanding it down, remove the side sail and glass it from the inside with a generous overlap. Reinstall, and align before sanding and filling the outside.

Am I on the right track? Obviously stretching the bumper will come after both sides are done. And I'll probably take you up on your offer to chat once I'm ready to start cutting.

[BC Huselton]

Sure, call when you are ready. I would try another approach. Cut the rear bumper at the edge of the tail light and move that entire side out to match up with the new fender position. That way you maintain the original contours and you are filling in at a flatter location.

Yes the cutting of the fender at the spot you are pointing at requires a temporary support structure, that you screw into, then you bevel both the top and the bottom of the joining parts and then use structural woven glass for you first layer to produce strength and then top coats with copped mat. The space structure to support the glass while curing can be made from sheet metal covered with foil tape and a forming paste wax that permits it to release cleanly.

More later, when you are ready. You have the right ideas.

[Canadian818]

I've actually considered not widening the bumper at all and just make the flange on the side sail much bigger. Obviously this wouldn't flow smoothly into the bumper, but if I put slotted vents in said flat spot it would look intentional. Also, the fact that I'm putting a APR road race wing on the back it's more of a race car look I'm going for. Hard to say until I start cutting, which now I'm excited to do so it might be next week! Need to go buy some epoxy and mat.

[Canadian818]

Not much to show, unless you count a ton more space to work due to some late "spring" cleaning. I've cleco'd and trimmed the side sails. I went by my manual's 5/8" back from the frame to the bottom of the sil, hopefully there wasn't a revision I'm unaware of. My gaps are actually pretty good along the top of the rear quarters, ironically so since I'll be be able to easily adjust those after cutting the top edge. I won't be cutting just yet, I'm going to make sure everything is square first. Right now my passenger side wheel is centred in the wheel well but the drivers side isn't. I'm fairly confident that the side sails are the same, so it must be my alignment. So there's not much left I can do until I put it on the ground and start my alignment. Also I expect to have to modify the front aluminum and probably some frame to clear my 245's which measure 25.5" diameter. FYI, if my rears look tall it's because they're 26.4" diameter.





I decided to experiment with some relief cuts in the bottom of the side sails. I just did a few spread out so I could see which ones open up when I pull out on the front of the wheel well. It actually worked pretty good, however the center cuts opened up much more, so I'll end up adding a few more there.

[Frank818]

Looks like your humps lid is too much fwd or your side sail too much backwards (probably the latter). They don't line up at the door edge. Also I don't think it's possible to fit the humps lid without ANY trimming around the roll bar. I had some serious trimming there and I am quite within FFR's specs and Dan's specs (Dan knows all secrets about all possible body panels).

The good news though is it's cool to see your post a couple of times a week, now!!!!

[Canadian818]

Thanks for your feedback Frank, always welcome! From everyone btw, lol. And yes, it's very satisfying to update this thread regularly.

The measurement from the center front of the engine cover to the side of the frame the supplied firewall mounts to is 3.125" which is right about the measurement given in Dan's thread. I believe he had 3.25" and metalmaker had 3", I could be remembering the "who" wrong as I've been reading A LOT of threads lately looking for all the hidden tips and tricks of mounting the body. To me I thought they lined up perfectly, maybe the picture is deceiving with the paint stick. And I was surprised that I didn't need to trim it to get it there. It is touching, and will need to be clearenced a little, but not much.

Speaking up tips and tricks, I thought I'd share something. Before taking the car off my dolly (it's off now, woohoo), I wanted to mount the aluminum panel that goes under the seat. Something that's been annoying me is the issue of having to make this panel removable to take the seats on and off, at least for those of us with extremely low seats. As it's designed, this would also entail removing the side sails. Seems like a lot of trouble to access the fuel tank or get your friends phone that went flying under the seat due to unexpected g-forces. I also really didn't want to install that many rivnuts on my back. So here's my solution...





They're called knock out plugs, usually found in the electrical isle of any hardware store. These are 1" plugs from Home Depot, however the hole actually measures just under 1.375". I did notice today that lowes sells them without the recessed center. Either way, paint them black and pop them in!



There it is, permanently installed. Most non-builders don't realize how time consuming one panel could be. Between the initial painting of the panel, clamping it, marking it, marking for holes, drilling the panel, clamping again, drilling the frame, cutting what felt like a hundred triangles of sound deadener, siliconing, cleco'ing, riveting, drilling drainage holes, and then plastic dipping it all....goodnight!

[Canadian818]

Anyone have experience using RacePak digital dashes? I'm considering the IQ3s as opposed to the Subaru dash. It's around $900usd, and has everything for the street like turn signal, high beam, and Peking brake indicators, along with fuel level. It's a lot cheaper when I think about all the gauges it eliminates. I'd love to have a gps lap timer, but the higher end IQ3 with that is almost twice the price! I'm sure there's something else I can get seperatly later, maybe with integrated video. Anyone use these? Recommend anything else? Thanks

[Frank818]

Nice stuff man!

About the engine cover, mine is at exactly 3" calculating the 1.5" of the tube. I admit I pushed fwd about 1/16 to 1/8 the side sails to have a better seat on the front fenders so that pushed the cover the same distance, but negligible. Still I had to trim a lot around the roll bar. You lucky B with a better molded cover. Savor that moment as there are other moments which are quite more difficult.

[Wayne Presley]

I like the AIM MXs/MXG for a full function dash with GPS/laptiming/datalogging. The MXS strada or MXL strada for a dash only. http://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/index_car.htm I sell the AIM systems

Or the Dash2 which can be upgraded to the Dash2Pro at a later date http://www.race-technology.com/gb/ra...products/dash2

[Canadian818]

Nice stuff man!

About the engine cover, mine is at exactly 3" calculating the 1.5" of the tube. I admit I pushed fwd about 1/16 to 1/8 the side sails to have a better seat on the front fenders so that pushed the cover the same distance, but negligible. Still I had to trim a lot around the roll bar. You lucky B with a better molded cover. Savor that moment as there are other moments which are quite more difficult.

Oh I'm sure I'll have my share of issues fitting both my front and rear wheels under the body. However, that's self inflicted, lol.

I like the AIM MXs/MXG for a full function dash with GPS/laptiming/datalogging. The MXS strada or MXL strada for a dash only. http://www.aim-sportline.com/eng/index_car.htm I sell the AIM systems

Or the Dash2 which can be upgraded to the Dash2Pro at a later date http://www.race-technology.com/gb/ra...products/dash2

I was hoping you would chime in on this Wayne, thanks. I somehow missed the strada line from AIM, and I never even heard of the Dash2. They're both just over the 1000usd mark so very comparable in price to the IQ3. I know the AIM units get rave reviews, not sure about the Dash2, but I like that its upgradable. My only concern is how easily they'll communicate with the Infinity. The iq3 is advertised to be compatible with it.

[Wayne Presley]

I was hoping you would chime in on this Wayne, thanks. I somehow missed the strada line from AIM, and I never even heard of the Dash2. They're both just over the 1000usd mark so very comparable in price to the IQ3. I know the AIM units get rave reviews, not sure about the Dash2, but I like that its upgradable. My only concern is how easily they'll communicate with the Infinity. The iq3 is advertised to be compatible with it.

They are pretty much Plug and Play via the CAN connections. Hook up 2 wires and everything the ECU sees the dash sees.