FormaCars

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  20
Likes Likes:  104
Page 3 of 25 FirstFirst 1234513 ... LastLast
Results 81 to 120 of 967

Thread: Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build

  1. #81
    nkw8181's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    762
    Post Thanks / Like
    what size seat did you get? large ? what size does that cover exactly? I can't find any info vs inseam. do you think the med would have the same problem?
    Nolan
    65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

    818 s (with r windscreen ) 350 rwhp. Registered and street legal (SOLD)

  2. #82
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yeah it's the large. Not sure how the widths differ between sizes. I'm 36-38 waist, 36 in the summer so a 38 now and it's snug, but not uncomfortable.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  3. #83
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    You will probably never drive the car in your 38 waist anyway, cuz it's during winter!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  4. #84
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    You will probably never drive the car in your 38 waist anyway, cuz it's during winter!
    Haha, true enough! Its finally warming up here, today was the first time this year working in the garage with the door open.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  5. #85
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Final mock up before drilling holes. I'm really unsure of what to do with the shifter. The manual shows it mounted between the seats, in which case it would have to be under mounted. When I checked out longisland and mechie's threads about how they did it, they mounted it ahead of the seats. Since my seat is so far back, I almost want to mount it ahead of the seats and on top. If they can mount it up there then there must be enough cable length. Still need to modify it though, as I'll be punching myself in the leg for 1st every time.



    Got the seat support rails welded, and drivers seat bolted in. Measured clearance for the gas tank and started cutting.



    For anyone wondering, the FFR tank has a baffle/bowl in it. I was planning to weld something in while it was open, but I was pleasantly surprised.



    I also removed the filler port on the back.



    Here's the idea.





    Need a little more clearance, then its time to modify the fire wall and fabricate the engine side firewall.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  6. #86
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Started mounting my harness. Didn't feel like drilling 9/16" holes, so I'll punch out some brackets tomorrow at work to make my lap and sub belt mounts. Had to remove the seat belt bracket behind the seat in order to wrap the harness. Put the buckle on the bottom to keep the harness at an angle that doesn't have it ride on the seat grommet.



    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  7. #87
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Las Vegas, USA
    Posts
    983
    Post Thanks / Like
    You cut the console rails? You're a monster.

    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    I'm really unsure of what to do with the shifter.
    My plan is to mount my shifter so the knob is close to my right hand when it's at 3 o'clock on the steering wheel without interfering with my steering input. Mounted close. When I need to shift at an auto-x or a rare track day I have to move my hand the least distance to shift and get it right back on the wheel.



    Kind of like the WRC cars or NASCAR cars.

  8. #88
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    I agree Rasmus, no need to have it crazy low.

    Can anyone help me with getting the FFR supplied shifter apart? There's a washer that needs to come off, but I have no idea how. I had to walk away before I broke it. I'll take a pic later, so those without a kit can advise too.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  9. #89
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Pop the washer with slots off. Either pry it or put it in a press. Pop off the two metal retaining tabs then give the bottom nub of the steel lever a good wack to pop off the plastic cup that was held in place by the clips.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  10. #90
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Pop the washer with slots off. Either pry it or put it in a press. Pop off the two metal retaining tabs then give the bottom nub of the steel lever a good wack to pop off the plastic cup that was held in place by the clips.
    Thanks Mechie, I was timid about the washer. Got rough with it after your post and success! Here's a thought; I'm going to press the ball off tomorrow to rotate the shaft to the passenger side. The ball is centred on the splined section, if I were to put it back higher on the shaft wouldn't it shorten the throw?
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  11. #91
    Mechie3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    5,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    It would shorten it. Just make sure you still have enough clearance below (not sure why you wouldn't).
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  12. #92
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    It would shorten it. Just make sure you still have enough clearance below (not sure why you wouldn't).
    I'll let you know how it works out. Ball is off, shaft is in the freezer...
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  13. #93
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    Ball is off, shaft is in the freezer...
    Jesus, that doesn't sound right at all. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  14. #94
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Wow, been awhile since I updated this. Working on brake/clutch hard lines this weekend, and like everyone else, the kit didn't come with enough of the right size lines. Fortunately they're only $5 a line at the local auto parts store. I want to run the lines slightly different, and I'm looking for feedback. In the pic below, I want to run both lines up and over where the green tape is on the outside of the frame. The cross over will be along the engine mounts. Will this interfere with anything further along in the build?

    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  15. #95
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    south-central CT
    Posts
    1,611
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    Ball is off, shaft is in the freezer...
    Are you Lorena Bobbitt?

    On a serious note: I am interested in what you are doing. I don't like the stock routing.

  16. #96
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    Are you Lorena Bobbitt?

    On a serious note: I am interested in what you are doing. I don't like the stock routing.
    Haha, nothing of the sort! I'll update the thread tonight or tomorrow with pics of the shifter and gas tank/firewall mods. I just got back from the store with more lines so I'm going to go ahead and mount them as discussed above. Really don't like the idea of having brake line so close to a header/manifold.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  17. #97
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    south-central CT
    Posts
    1,611
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yea! That (routing near the exhaust) was a biggie for me. Where will you T it? I was thinking of somewhere in front of the gas tank area.

  18. #98
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'll post pics if it works out,

    Plan is to tee by the drivers rear upper shock mount, also going to end the clutch line there and use a longer braided hose to the tranny.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  19. #99
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Finished routing all my hard lines. Everything is just cleco'd in place, but I don't see reason to not go ahead and rivet everything. I'll add a few more p-clamps.














    My Nissan 300zx aluminum calipers showed up, along with the brackets from KNS. Looks like I'm going to need larger rotors! Those are the 2.5i rotors, about an inch smaller than the Legacy GT 315x30mm rotors I need to order. I'll weight everything later when I have the front rotors, but the massive (in comparison) aluminum 4 pots seem to weigh about the same as the oem cast 2 piston sliders.



    The back will be more difficult. The Nissan 2 pot rears are slightly different than the wrx ones. They'll mount to wrx backing plates but the pad will sit a few mm off the edge of the rotor. It seems a few people have run it like this and I can't find any ill reports, however I'm going to try to avoid it. I don't have wrx backing plates, so I'll attempt to make a adapter like the front. If that doesn't work, I'll get the wrx backing plates and slot/weld the mounting holes to move the caliper in over the rotor.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  20. #100
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Kirkland, WA
    Posts
    2,255
    Post Thanks / Like
    Couple of questions on the hard lines:

    1. I did not see the clutch hard line, was this also run
    2. Also any reason not to run the bias to cockpit area so you can adjust from there ?
    3. I did not see where you split the rear lines for each side, also any reason not to run them down the center console area and then tee near gas tank? Seems where you have it on the side is where the aluminum panels go (at least the R has these side aluminum panels).
    4. Have any pics of where you mounted the tabs for hardline to flex line ?
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  21. #101
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    1. In the second pic, the line on the right is for the clutch. Also the top line in the third pic.

    2. I don't expect to be adjusting the bias often, dial it in once, tweak it on occasion. Wilwood makes a nice cable adapted knob for mounting in the cab, I believe CPlaven has one in his build thread. I need to get some seat time, only done auto x, and that was 9 years ago. I'd rather not have knobs to fiddle with, at least for now.

    3. In the fourth pic, just above the coilover is the rear tee. All the aluminum panels on the S are inside the cockpit. You could go down the tunnel and split at the tank, probably a little more work though. I no longer have a centre tunnel, for now anyway, and my gas tank/firewall/seat area is already way too tight.

    4. I'll take some pics of the flex line mounts tonight.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  22. #102
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Here's the pics you requested tony. The front lines will have just enough slack at full lock under full droop once clamped to the upright, so I'm happy with the location.







    Flex lines are Goodridge from KNS Brakes, a supporting vender, great to deal with.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  23. #103
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    My thread seems overly pic heavy. IMO its the best way to do a build thread. I think its the lack of conversation that usually spreads out threads, but most of what I'm posting is either already sorted from past threads, or one off stuff no one will be copying.

    Removed my rear dust shields to start fitting the wrx rotor and Nissan caliper.



    The rotor is quite bigger/wider and is vented vs the 2.5i rotor. Its actually about the same size as the OEM front.







    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  24. #104
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Few things I've done in the past month that I forgot to update...

    Fabricated some harness and seat mounts



    Made this shifter mount using 14ga steel and 1.5" dimple die. Also pulled the shifter apart and rotated the shaft so I'm not punching my leg for 1st.





    TIG welded up the gas tank. Its notched to allow the seats to move back another inch, and I relocated the fill tube so its no longer near the exhaust. I checked it with dye penetrate, waiting to bolt it in and test fit everything before sloshing around some POR tank sealer and painting the outside.



    Modified firewall welded as well. It will sit lower on the top crossbar, and still needs to be notched for the harnesses.



    Its been mentioned a few times now that most front frame sections don't line up with the brackets. I used some flat washers equally on both sides as spacers, everything seems tight and square.

    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  25. #105
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Shelton, CT
    Posts
    1,011
    Post Thanks / Like
    Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what made you decide to go with the donor you picked? I admire your skills in getting everything to work! How many hours do you think you have into it to date? Any estimates on when you think you'll complete the build?

  26. #106
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    2,374
    Post Thanks / Like
    At first, I mounted the tabs that hold the front flexible brake lines to the outside of the frame - as shown in the manual and as you did. Later I discovered that an aluminum panel goes in the INSIDE of the frame so I had to cut a notch in the panel for the hard brake line - but that looked bad so I redid it all and re-mounted the metal tabs on the inside of the frame so the tab is on the panel with no extra hole. Let me know if you need a photo to show what I mean.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  27. #107
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well looks like you're a metalmaker. lolll
    Nice job.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  28. #108
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    At first, I mounted the tabs that hold the front flexible brake lines to the outside of the frame - as shown in the manual and as you did. Later I discovered that an aluminum panel goes in the INSIDE of the frame so I had to cut a notch in the panel for the hard brake line - but that looked bad so I redid it all and re-mounted the metal tabs on the inside of the frame so the tab is on the panel with no extra hole. Let me know if you need a photo to show what I mean.
    I didn't realize there was a panel up there, just the one below it. Time to get into the aluminum box again!
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  29. #109
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what made you decide to go with the donor you picked? I admire your skills in getting everything to work! How many hours do you think you have into it to date? Any estimates on when you think you'll complete the build?
    The donor was for lack of options, just not many to choose from here. I also didn't want to pay for a wrx or sti as my plan is still to use an H6. I enjoy the fab work, a lot more than the rivets and bolts thats for sure.

    I have no idea how many hours, and have no intention of counting them. I do a lot of what I like to call "figuring", ie; staring at the car and coming up with ideas, or how to fix mistakes. And there's a TV in the garage, so I'll often find myself standing up holding tools like a zombie with tunnel vision. Also my daughter takes advantage of me being in the garage, she sees it as me outside so shes able to go ride her bike which always involves me some how. So my # of hours spent in the garage is about 3x the hours spent actually doing focused work.

    The car will be on the road first thing next spring, with any luck a month early just waiting on weather. I would like to go kart before snow this fall. I have yet to order an engine or ecu/harness, funds are being redirected into a money making project for now. So I'm going to start mounting the body before the engine, pretty sure I'll be the first to do so. Then I'll finish the bike project so I can have my work bench back. I'm enjoying the build, and would have to halfa$$ it to put it on the road this summer. But I plan to be testing/tuning at the first events/track days of 2015.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  30. #110
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Eugene, OR, USA
    Posts
    2,343
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Canadian818 View Post
    I do a lot of what I like to call "figuring", ie; staring at the car and coming up with ideas, or how to fix mistakes.
    Yep. I do a lot of that too! I really need to start doing more actual work...
    Have you seen the 818 Registry on Google Maps?? https://www.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...a=0&dg=feature

    Want your 818 added to the Registry? https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1zmF...rNCY4/viewform

  31. #111
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not having much success with my brakes. Have to vent so I can move on and get something productive done.

    For the rear, there's no way to make a bracket off the old mounting holes. I could weld a bracket on, but it would only be my weld holding it there, and as confident/competent as I am, there's just too much cyclic loading and heating in that area. So I'll bite the bullet and pick up some WRX backing plates and modify the holes slightly to fit the pad perfectly on the rotor. According to to a forum, they're $50/each. While I'm at it, I might as well order some ARP wheel studs.

    The front however we're supposed to be simple bolt on. I bought caliper brackets from KNS, and after weeks of searching (not intensely I might add) for Legacy GT 315mm x 30mm rotors I found some locally today. Bolted everything up, and the pad sits 8mm off the rotor. Now I read "online" that when using GTR calipers you need to use STI rotors which are 324mm. I also read "online" that the only aluminum Nissan 4 piston calipers were off the 300zx. So I'm assuming my calipers are off some JDM variant, as they do a lot of limited edition models we know nothing about. I'll do a search and make sure the brembo's are 324x30mm, and send an email to KNS for their feedback. Something tells me I won't find those rotors for $96/each....

    I'll post a pic later, gotta get something accomplished before I head in.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  32. #112
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    So here's the LGT 315mm rotors...



    And the pad over hang I was talking about...



    Quick google search and it seems '04 STI rotors are 326x30mm with 5x100 bolt pattern. I'm going to return the LGT rotors and begin the search for those.

    Laid out some eastwood sound barrier and bolted in the gas tank so I could fit the firewall.







    Need to install some rivnuts, notch for the harness', and do a final test fit with the seat before I can paint everything. Need to figure out a handbrake mount, tunnel, and will probably need to open up the slot above the tank later for wiring, etc. Not nearly as much done as I had hoped, but progress is progress...
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  33. #113
    Senior Member Triathletedave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    232
    Post Thanks / Like
    Are you happy with the layout on the rear section of the clutch line? I did it the was the book recommended, but I don't like it. I may buy more hard line and start over. Your routing looks solid, and should not get in the way.
    TriguyDave
    818 noobie builder
    First start: Sept 28, 2014
    Go-carted: Oct 4, 2014
    Registered and Street legal Sept 30, 2015
    Calgary, Alberta

  34. #114
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Triathletedave View Post
    Are you happy with the layout on the rear section of the clutch line? I did it the was the book recommended, but I don't like it. I may buy more hard line and start over. Your routing looks solid, and should not get in the way.
    I think it's the best place, and run a longer SS line. This way you can remove the engine without having to bleed the system. It just made sense to route it with the brake line, which went up and over to avoid the exhaust.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  35. #115
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    So no updates for over 6 months, wow, has it been that long? I finished fitting all the frame mounted aluminum and painted it in July, and all the panels are still in the boxes I brought them home in. A week before my last update I started my own contracting company and spent the next few months getting it going while staying at my last job. So 70hrs/week all summer. Now I'm down to 60/hrs a week with about 3hrs/day of commuting. I'm tired. I knew I'd have some free time during the holidays to get started back at it, so about a month ago I started pricing out engines. For the past year I've been set on a EZ36 with a AEM Infinity ECU, stock to start, but eventually turbo. I was nervous about the lack of aftermarket support, but was determined to be different.

    Then the "rotary 818" thread was bumped up, and I hadn't seen it before. I've always had an interest in the rotary, and dreamed of owning a FD3S for a long time. I did enough research to determine that it "should" fit, found a jdm engine importer with a decent reputation, and ordered a 13B-REW.



    Here it is upon arrival. Extremely clean for a 15-20 year old wankel. I'm not sure the year, the importer said its "a newer one with the 16bit ecu", but i've yet to confirm anything.



    Lots of crap hanging off this thing. Lots to remove. The inner belt driving the alternator, water pump, and air pump was removed to gain access to the serial number as I required it for the receipt. Just in case its needed when registering it.



    Removed the air pump (emissions), power steering, and A/C. I'll be ordering some pulley's, including a single belt crank pulley and a idler pulley to route the belt so the water pump gets enough belt around it. There's still lots to be removed, more emissions crap, and a bunch of vacuum lines. My eventual plan is to run a single twin scroll EFR turbo, however they're not cheap, so if the stock twins fit the chassis then I'll run them for now, at least until I know if the engine is in need of a rebuild. However, I had this little gem awaiting me when I pulled off the down pipe...



    Oh joy. It was just laying there. The rear turbo seems fine, no shaft play, so I'll probably see if I can find a replacement on ebay. Not to sure how it broke, worst case is a apex seal broke and the debris got in the turbo. I will probably pull the entire manifold off and see what can been seen inside the housings. But for now it stays on, as fitting the engine and trans together and mounting it in the 818 are my priorities. This weekend I'll separate the mazda 5spd and start laying out a plan for an adapter plate.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  36. #116
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Shelton, CT
    Posts
    1,011
    Post Thanks / Like
    Can't wait to see this... love the rotary engine's revving ability. I hope it works out for you! I will be following this build for sure. Just please try not to wait 6 months between updates!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  37. #117
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Exeter R.I
    Posts
    2,834
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Very cool setup man, I like it very much
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  38. #118
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice job Adam, but 6 months that's too long. Though I understand 70h/week is a lot! You were still somewhat active on the forum so it's not that bad.

    70h/week during summer is bad, as it's the only time to take advantage of the warmer weather (car driving, for instance). In Canada (and especially your north west for US people and mid west for us Canadians), what on earth can we do during winter besides watching hockey and building an 818? lolll

    Good pioneer choice on the rotary, hopefully it'll fit better than my VR6.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  39. #119
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Very cool idea! Will you be starting a thread called "simplifying the 13B"??

    That motor does look very clean, hopefully it's as nice on the inside as it is on the outside. Good luck on designing the adapter plate for the trans, that will be an interesting challenge. Not sure if you use CAD software but that might be a big help.

  40. #120
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    1,378
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks everyone.

    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Will you be starting a thread called "simplifying the 13B"??
    There's so much info online, this engine was sold over 20 years ago. I'll answer any questions, and try to post as much detail as possible. But until I can make this all work, I won't bother with detailed threads on the 13b.

    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Good luck on designing the adapter plate for the trans, that will be an interesting challenge. Not sure if you use CAD software but that might be a big help.
    Not sure if I'm the right man for the job, but I'll give it a shot. If all else fails then I'll send it to the professionals. No CAD, a shop I do some work for just got a program called "Inventor" and will be getting a cnc mill, so once I have a prototype I may ask him to help me make a few more. I watched a video on YouTube about making an adapter for a toyota and it seemed simple enough.

    This doesn't help me with the clutch/flywheel issues, but I found a interesting thread of a guy trying to make a AWD RX7 with the same combo. Unfortunately he stopped updating his thread. He goes into a lot of detail, and gives me a starting point. He concluded that the adapter would probably have to be 1" thick as the bell housing is so small on the subie trans. RE-Amemiya put a 3-rotor 20b mated to a 5mt in a Lotus Europa and his adapter appears to confirm this.



    Spent a little time in the garage tonight, got home early. Managed to get the trans separated from the engine, no easy task if you take the brute approach. There's a "hidden" bolt tucked away below the starter housing. Then you get it off an inch, which is a small victory in itself, only to have to resort to the forums and find out if you remove a inspection plate and pry the "ring clip thingy" towards the engine it all releases and just slides off. Another one of those jobs that took 2hrs the first time and would take 2mins next time. I also stripped the back off the subie trans, and mounted the ffr plate. I realized the oem bolts are too long and they're must be supplied bolts in the pile of hardware on my workbench, one look at the workbench and I decided to call it a night. I need to get a 54mm socket on saturday to remove the mazda flywheel, so thats it for a few days.



    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

Page 3 of 25 FirstFirst 1234513 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor