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Thread: DCs 818r

  1. #81
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    I am kind of held up for go cart as my ECU is back at electromotive for repair. Everything else is done as far as running. I still need to work on an air intake and oil separator, but I need to do some body work first. I moved the dash back 3 inches because I could not reach the switches while strapped in. Now that I have it on the ground does anyone have ideas for jacking points? With the cf rockers and "R" ride height a floor jack simply wont fit.

  2. #82
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    I am kind of held up for go cart as my ECU is back at electromotive for repair. Everything else is done as far as running. I still need to work on an air intake and oil separator, but I need to do some body work first. I moved the dash back 3 inches because I could not reach the switches while strapped in. Now that I have it on the ground does anyone have ideas for jacking points? With the cf rockers and "R" ride height a floor jack simply wont fit.
    I use the metal under the drivers legs with the crossbar as a jack point. I marked it just to the inside of the fiberglass on the bottom of the car. It works good, and you don't have to be perfectly on the bar. You will need something like this to get a low profile jack under it. Its what I have been using without any problems.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure they are the ones without the "1.5" Stop ridge" on the end. You want the flat top ones because the front splitter could hit the Stop Ridge on the other ones.

    I also can just jack up the rear by going under the rear diffuser and a little past the flat bottom aluminum piece to a bar under the trans. I don't need any ramps in place for that. You can do it on the front also, but you will need the ramps on and the jack will have to be low to clear the race splitter. I lift the main bar a little back and below of the steering rack. You just have to be really careful with the jack handle when lowering. It need to be horizontal.
    Last edited by C.Plavan; 01-10-2015 at 02:25 PM.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

  3. #83
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    I am now doing body work, It seems like this is where the manual is more useful holding stuff down. Does anybody know why these hole are hear and what they are for? Has anyone cut off this piece of the engine cover so that it can be removed without all of the contortions.818 body 1 001.JPG818 body 1 002.JPG

  4. #84
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    The hole is there for the S model's roll bar brace.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    Has anyone cut off this piece of the engine cover so that it can be removed without all of the contortions. 818 body 1 002.JPG
    Look up Nuisance's build. He did just that and added a pretty slick hinge to the cover as well.

    Best,
    -j
    "Weight transfer is the enemy."

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  6. #86
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I agree, the manual makes for a nice paperweight for holding things down while you try and align pieces.

  7. #87
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    Working on the body work I could not make the rear trunk stay curved to fit the body line. I used 3m panel bond and glued a pre-bent 3/8 aluminum rod to the edge of the panel. I also glued nut to it as I am going to screw it in place, I couldn't see any thing under there that I needed to get to in a hurry. Also made a support for the engine cover so the rear body fits pretty good. Still working on the headlights. BTW got my ecm back from electromotive It works and Uwe at their tech department was a great help.exhaust and trunk 002.JPGexhaust and trunk 003.JPG

  8. #88
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Did you wind up cutting the tabs off ( the stupid design around the roll cage down tubes) the deck and attaching them to the side panels ?
    Tony Nadalin
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    818R Build in progress

  9. #89
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    NO I just cut them back so I can get the cover off without a lot of trauma. I didn't want to re engineer a bunch of attaching points I think I figure to have 7 quarter turn fasteners for the engine cover 3 on each side and one in the center to the aluminum.

  10. #90
    Senior Member Buzz Skyline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    I used 3m panel bond and glued a pre-bent 3/8 aluminum rod to the edge of the panel. exhaust and trunk 002.JPGexhaust and trunk 003.JPG
    What an excellent idea! I've been looking at the flopping panels in back and wondering how I can stiffen them up. This seems like just the ticket.

  11. #91
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    Been very busy at work an not making the progress that I want to. I did get my wing mount tacked together.wing mount 001.JPGwing mount 002.JPG

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