THE K-tuned shifter thread

[C.Plavan]

Yes, Boog, the throw is that short. The opening I've cut in the aluminum for the shift lever allows me to shift into all gears. The feeling is crisp and sharp so there's no slop and it's clear where the gears are, even though the throw is short. I'm close to go-karting around the 'hood but so far in my garage it shifts very nicely.

+1 Very smooth and easy. Best of all, you know what gear you are in, it's so precise.

[Goldwing]

I didn't think this shifter could be improved upon, but this might qualify:

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http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Phoenix/page3

Post 98 in my build thread explains what I did.

[FFRSpec72]

Has anyone installed the VCP shifter with the aluminum console that FFR is using now ? if so any problems ?

[matteo92065]

I didn't think this shifter could be improved upon, but this might qualify:

image.jpg
image.jpg

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Phoenix/page3


Post 98 in my build thread explains what I did.

I am SO copying this! I like to bedazzle things with LEDs.

[Wayne Presley]

Has anyone installed the VCP shifter with the aluminum console that FFR is using now ? if so any problems ?

No problem with the new console

[Wayne Presley]

Brackets are done for the 6 speed trans!

[MrDude_1]

I didn't think this shifter could be improved upon, but this might qualify:

sure it can.
simply remove all the flat billet aluminum pieces and replace with similar custom cut carbon fiber panels... just as stiff, but much lighter.

[Frank818]

Nice thread, will help me a lot.

Except unfortunately it's missing the most important part for me. I am looking for pix of the cable routing and installation from the top of the fuel tank all the way to the driveshafts. Where are the cables going through (center firewall hole or trailing arm hole, then over the engine, on the side, underneath, etc.) and how are they attached (bracket on the engine, brackets on the frames, tie-raps, glue, bubble gum, name it ), that's what I am looking for at this very moment.

Anyone got those pix? Or in written words that would still be helpful.

[rori]

Nice thread, will help me a lot.

Except unfortunately it's missing the most important part for me. I am looking for pix of the cable routing and installation from the top of the fuel tank all the way to the driveshafts. Where are the cables going through (center firewall hole or trailing arm hole, then over the engine, on the side, underneath, etc.) and how are they attached (bracket on the engine, brackets on the frames, tie-raps, glue, bubble gum, name it ), that's what I am looking for at this very moment.

Anyone got those pix? Or in written words that would still be helpful.

Center firewall hole, over the fuel tank, under the intake manifold on the drivers side. The only brackets are the ones attached to the transmission.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nice thread, will help me a lot.

Except unfortunately it's missing the most important part for me. I am looking for pix of the cable routing and installation from the top of the fuel tank all the way to the driveshafts. Where are the cables going through (center firewall hole or trailing arm hole, then over the engine, on the side, underneath, etc.) and how are they attached (bracket on the engine, brackets on the frames, tie-raps, glue, bubble gum, name it ), that's what I am looking for at this very moment.

Anyone got those pix? Or in written words that would still be helpful.

Hey Frank
The cables over the engine and under the intake.
Bob
Edit: Rori beat me by a minute, but I have art.

[Frank818]

Edit: Rori beat me by a minute, but I have art.

You do. But I must admit by facts that you got beaten still.

So "over" the engine. That was my concern. Then I seriously think I might need more than 84", since I cannot go over my VR6 engine... and I might need to bend the cables more as I need to go around the engine, but my engine is not as wide as yours. I think I'll use the FFR supplied cables and make measurements with that, assuming the race k-tuned cables can bend enough. I thought you guys were going "around" the engine by the driver's side, which is why I was looking for an answer. That clears up things for me. Stupid out of the box build I am doing. My bad.

I'll need to use the hole over the trailing arm, I just hope the race cables can bend that much (can they bend as much as the ebrake cables?). No way I can make it through the center hole as I would need a close to 90-deg bend, as the engine will be what, 1/8th from the firewall/frame.

tnx a lot!

[FFRSpec72]

hmmmm, seems the cables are too short of I have to reroute them (I go through the engine, under the intake on the drivers side), looks like cables are about a foot too short, as was thinking about using the console (aluminum one). Hopefully you can see the cable route from the pictures below. only other option I could take is t route them lower on the rear firewall (which means more holes !). Thoughts ?

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[C.Plavan]

Wayne's kit was made before the center console. I don't have the center console and I would not want the shifter that far forward anyway. Mine is where you have it. Just modify the center console instead of the other things. That would be easier. Plus you can adjust the shifter knob in hundreds of different positions and heights.

[Wayne Presley]

hmmmm, seems the cables are too short of I have to reroute them (I go through the engine, under the intake on the drivers side), looks like cables are about a foot too short, as was thinking about using the console (aluminum one). Hopefully you can see the cable route from the pictures below. only other option I could take is t route them lower on the rear firewall (which means more holes !). Thoughts ?

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You are going through you second firewall too high which is eating up the cable length.

[nkw8181]

This is where I have mine mocked up and looks to be right. Will just need to work out the amount to trim the console so the bends are smooth. I also plan on putting some sort of abrasion protection on the lines in key places.

[Frank818]

Tnx a lot for the pic Nolan, with those from Tony I am able to see how the cable routes and that I will certainly need a longer version for my application.

[nkw8181]

You can't see the ends because they are covered by the center console but I would say the cables go 2 ft forward of the ebrake cables you see. I'd take solid 12 or 14 gauge wire and run it where the cables should be and then see its length.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank
you can temporarily add a loop the to the FFR cables until you get custom ones made.
the loop does add a lot of back lash to the cables, but it is still drivable.
Bob
looped.jpg

[Frank818]

Good idea Bob, but I should be good. I provided Wayne with my length and I am months away before I actually shift with the engine in. I will connect the cables to the shifter on a table and to the tranny, but in the car it'll take a while. I needed to compare the normal cable route (under manif) vs how I would be doing it. Normal k-tuned cables are 84" long, I gave 103 to Wayne (tip to tip), I gotta run them on the side of the engine, adding around 19in.

[FFRSpec72]

You are going through you second firewall too high which is eating up the cable length.

I re-routed the cables and mocked up the console and all looks like it works out, went to hook up shift linkage and was missing the 2 nuts that go on the ends of the cables swivels, anyone know size ?

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[Wayne Presley]

They are 1/4-28

[Frank818]

Install the 84" cable in the fore/aft arm, the 96" in the left/right arm, then center the adjusting nuts in the middle of the threads and tighten them.

Ok Wayne, what's the trick here? The 1/4-28 ball stud retainers w/ball studs do not thread in the shifter arm's holes, the threads aren't the same at all (longer on the arms). I got the 1st version of the shifter kit (Nov 2013).

[Wayne Presley]

Your holes need to be drilled out to 1/4", yours was drop shipped from Ktuned since you're both in Canada.

[Frank818]

Ok I thought they needed to be threaded (I don't have the tools for that). I drilled them out, works perfect. As always Wayne has a solution.

[metalmaker12]

He's pretty good, helped me out a few times and I have been at this for awhile.

[dougkirkbride]

So i am getting cables hooked up to tranny and k-tuned shifter. i put my slave cylinder back on and am wondering if the shift rod in the back of the tranny is moving the required amount. i push my clutch in but cant tell if anything is disingaged? how much does the 5/8 rod that moves fore and aft move? i am getting what seems to be 3 positions, in, out 3/8, out another 1/4, then out another 1/8.

i am only getting side to side movement of roughly 3/8 each side, measured about 3.5" (where cable connects) from center of shift rod. this side to side movement is only in the 3/8 out position.

movement seems hard, my tranny is dry, would it help to put fluid in?

[Wayne Presley]

I just measured a 5 speed
3rd --- .349" ---N--- .398"--- 4th
The Subaru trans in general has never been one of those usually listed as great shifting. The S2000, Miata are butter smooth, WWRX not so much...

[dougkirkbride]

Thanks Wayne. Mine is a five speed as well.
my out 1/8 & out 1/4 i believe are the same position. so I got roughly the same numbers you did. not sure what i was thinking but really there are only 3 for/aft positions, in-mid&out. I have a little more tweeking to go, still need to hit 5th. still havent put fluid in it, but dont see where that would make anything any smoother.

[wleehendrick]

I got my shifter and cable setup with a dry tranny and no hydraulics. Its notchy, but thats to be expected with no gear oil and the clutch engaged. One thing that helped was to get a feel for every gear location by shifting by hand at the rod... before hooking up any cables. I also had it in the air with wheels on so its easy to confirm your in gear or neutral by spinning a wheel.

[C.Plavan]

Just an FYI- For those guys running an 818R with a dry sump, you may want to run the cables under the motor (if you do not have a fuel tank in stock location). You can run them over manifold, but the dry sump oil pump is right there. You lose alot of slack going around the pump and associated belt. It gets really tight and the cables get too close to the belt (too close for comfort for me). I think I was having trouble downshifting from 5th to 4th because of this (and the motor moving due to ...racing). I have New Group N mounts. All other shifting was perfect. The 84" cable is the possible problem (no real slack anymore). If Wayne can get you both cables 96", you should be fine going over the motor.

I'm going to drill two new holes through the firewall (I may not even have to drill, I have to get under the car and see) and run them under/ or the bottom side of motor this time for more slack. This will also get them away from the oil pump/belt. I'll let you know if that fixed my problem with the 5th to 4th downshift after next weekend's race, I'm 95% positive it will.

[Hindsight]

If you are having a lot of trouble with engine movement, you might consider Cusco motor/trans mounts. They are much stiffer than the Group N.

[C.Plavan]

If you are having a lot of trouble with engine movement, you might consider Cusco motor/trans mounts. They are much stiffer than the Group N.

The N mounts really don't move that much, but just enough with the no slack short cable. I'm happy with them.

[Wayne Presley]

Chad, I can swap you out a longer cable if you want.

[C.Plavan]

Chad, I can swap you out a longer cable if you want.

Thanks Wayne, but I think I figured it out. I'll know after this weekend, wish me luck.

[metros]

I've got my cables hooked up. Shifting 1-5 without issue but can't seem to get into reverse. Any adjustments I can make or tips to double check? Fluid is in and it has been driven.

[Wayne Presley]

I've got my cables hooked up. Shifting 1-5 without issue but can't seem to get into reverse. Any adjustments I can make or tips to double check? Fluid is in and it has been driven.

Well 5th and reverse are in the same R&L gate, 2,4, & reverse so i don't why it won't go into reverse

[Mechie3]

Disconnect the shifter and see if you can do it by hand. Might help narrow down the issue to the trans or your cable connection.

Also, in my Subaru (both of the ones I've had) it didn't always like reverse. I think its non synchro'd and I'd sometimes have to give it a few tries or let the clutch slip a little to give the trans just enough rotation to slide in.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I've got my cables hooked up. Shifting 1-5 without issue but can't seem to get into reverse. Any adjustments I can make or tips to double check? Fluid is in and it has been driven.

Metros
Did you know there is a lockout mechanism that does not let you go from fifth to reverse.
You have to go back to the middle neutral position before it will let you go into reverse.
Bob

[nkw8181]

It may help to "shift from underneath and see if you're bottoming it the cables. I did that because at first I found it wouldn't go fully in gear

[FFRSpec72]

Does the offset of the cable to shift linkage look right ? Also I'm using the second hole from the bottom of the shift linkage, is that correct ? The shifter seems to be very stiff and hard to find the gears, trying to determine the cause, thoughts ?

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