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Thread: Three Bolts: Mk 4 Roadster Build

  1. #1
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    Three Bolts: Mk 4 Roadster Build

    Last weekend, I received my Mk 4 Roadster kit. It was great to see the chassis sitting on jack stands in my garage, with all the parts boxes piled up next to it. Even though I'm just getting started on my build, I've been getting ready for a couple months, and I've been documenting my efforts at this website.

    http://threebolts.com

    I'll post to this thread when I make progress updates to my site. You can also follow @threebolts on Twitter to receive updates that way.

  2. #2
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    The first pic are the brackets to mount the radiator fan to its enclosure. Second pic is the bracket used to secure the fuse box to the chassis (under driver side dashboard area). Third pic (if I recall correctly) are used when securing the rear end to the chassis.

  3. #3
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    Hi Jim, I like how you got yourself prepared for your build. My ship date is Mar. 29. I will use Stewart also. I live outside of Chicago. My garage is ready and will build a body buck on stilts. I hope to follow your thread all the way through. Good luck, Greg

  4. #4
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    Jim-

    Best of luck with your build. I look forward to following along via your site!

    Can't wait to see your progress.

    Regards,

    Steve

  5. #5
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    I also wish you luck on your build, hope I get my kit soon, its late.

    Walt

  6. #6
    Senior Member jayguy's Avatar
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    Great start, love the blog.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    For your next build, keep all the parts in the numbered boxes they came in until you check and label each item in each box; this process of elimination helps in identifying those phantom parts.

    Cheers, Dale
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  8. #8
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    Choosing Custom Parts

    When I attended the Factory Five Racing Build School this past December, the teachers offered suggestions about parts from third-party vendors which augment or replace kit parts. Since I took the class, I've made some buying decisions, and in this post on threebolts.com, I talk about the custom parts I've chosen.

    f-panels-small.jpg

  9. #9
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    By the way, my name is Ken. Readers of my site may have seen the name Jim as they read through posts, but that was the name of the Stewart Transport truck driver who delivered my kit.

    No worries. Thanks for reading and commenting.

    Ken

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by montyals View Post
    The first pic are the brackets to mount the radiator fan to its enclosure. Second pic is the bracket used to secure the fuse box to the chassis (under driver side dashboard area). Third pic (if I recall correctly) are used when securing the rear end to the chassis.
    Excellent help. Thanks!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaleG View Post
    For your next build, keep all the parts in the numbered boxes they came in until you check and label each item in each box; this process of elimination helps in identifying those phantom parts.

    Cheers, Dale
    "For your next build..."

    My wife thinks you're funny.

  12. #12
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbon-12 View Post
    Choosing Custom Parts

    When I attended the Factory Five Racing Build School this past December, the teachers offered suggestions about parts from third-party vendors which augment or replace kit parts. Since I took the class, I've made some buying decisions, and in this post on threebolts.com, I talk about the custom parts I've chosen.

    f-panels-small.jpg
    Why don't you describe those parts you chose here instead of making me click though to see what they are, and why you chose them? I understand you have a build site, which is cool, but it's considered bad form to drive users to another site from a forum to read about your thoughts, ideas and solutions. The whole idea of the forum is to share ideas with the community. So instead of links in the body of every post, put a link to your build site in your Signature and use your post for something substantive instead of a link describing content on another site. Maybe copy the post here, for example. Or some variation thereof.

    It's a really good post by the way, and the fact that it feature vendors that support this site doesn't hurt! I just don't feel like I should have to click through to read it.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Why don't you describe those parts you chose here instead of making me click though to see what they are, and why you chose them? I understand you have a build site, which is cool, but it's considered bad form to drive users to another site from a forum to read about your thoughts, ideas and solutions. The whole idea of the forum is to share ideas with the community. So instead of links in the body of every post, put a link to your build site in your Signature and use your post for something substantive instead of a link describing content on another site. Maybe copy the post here, for example. Or some variation thereof.

    It's a really good post by the way, and the fact that it feature vendors that support this site doesn't hurt! I just don't feel like I should have to click through to read it.

    I have my reasons for doing things the way I do.

    1. While I think this forum is a wonderful resource, we all know this isn't the only game in town. I know I'm getting into a touchy area, but the facts are as they are. As it stands today, I link to my posts from more than one forum.

    2. The content on my site is mine. If I want to mention a vendor who does not support this forum, I am free to do so.

    3. In my opinion, the design of information can't be separated from its content. I have full control of how my posts look on my site, including formatting, pictures, typography, etc. That's important to me.

    4. I write my site for my enjoyment, and I hope other people enjoy it, too. However, if you don't think my content is worth a click on a link, then don't click. Your time is your own, and you're free to spend it as you like. That goes for everyone here, too. I assure you that my feelings won't be hurt if you don't read my site.

    In summary, I would like to continue posting here, and I have no intention to "drive users to another site" for purposes other than those I've just mentioned, i.e. I don't sell ads on my site, or intend to make a business out of my build or my writing. My Roadster is just a hobby. I hope your community is flexible enough to allow me to do things my way, but if not, please say so, and I'll leave you all as you are with no hard feelings.
    Last edited by carbon-12; 02-04-2014 at 11:13 AM.

  14. #14
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    One last point. I don't allow comments on my site in any form, since I want control over every word and pixel which appears there. So, conversations about my posts can only take place outside of my site. I've already had a couple months of wonderful give-and-take with my friends on Facebook, but those conversations are different, since those people know me personally. For the more technical, kit-focused sharing of ideas, this forum could be a place where such information gathers up.

    I still hope that can happen, but I realize this forum is not mine, and I don't make the rules. For now, I intend to continue linking to the posts I write on threebolts.com unless you forbid that, in which case, I'd just stop posting here.
    Last edited by carbon-12; 02-04-2014 at 02:04 PM.

  15. #15
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    I like your site. It's straight forward, easy to read, and informative. The photos are clear and the humor (like identifying the steering wheel) keeps it fun and lighthearted. Keep up the GREAT work! I'll be reading along and following you on your journey.
    Last edited by montyals; 02-04-2014 at 05:07 PM.

  16. #16
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Um, yeah, okay... good luck on your build. I think you said all I need to know in posts 13 & 14.

    Also, I guess this is my chance to learn how to use the ignore feature, too.
    Last edited by Gumball; 02-04-2014 at 05:26 PM.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumball View Post
    Um, yeah, okay... good luck on your build. I think you said all I need to know in posts 13 & 14.

    Also, I guess this is my chance to learn how to use the ignore feature, too.
    Perhaps you misunderstood what I meant. I have my own reasons for making a personal website, and I'd like to share it with you here, but in my own way. Perhaps you understood this perfectly, and you don't like it. That's fine. I have no hard feelings towards you.

    In the bigger picture, if the community or the administrators don't like the way I post here, I'm happy to leave you all as you are. I don't intend to cause trouble, and you all are obviously doing fine without me and my project.

  18. #18
    Senior Member jayguy's Avatar
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    I'll be interested to see what you think of your MDS Atomic system once you get the car running. I'm still a couple years away from my own build, but am planning on using one of the EFI systems like that. Still not sure which one though, and more input will help me along.

    Your garage cleanup has me looking at my own garage and wishing it was that empty. At least right now I can fit 2 motorcycles on my half, along with my tools and parts shelves. And a car still fits on the other side. Maybe I'll have a bigger shop by the time I order my kit.

    Good luck with the build, I'll be watching.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jayguy View Post
    I'll be interested to see what you think of your MDS Atomic system once you get the car running. I'm still a couple years away from my own build, but am planning on using one of the EFI systems like that. Still not sure which one though, and more input will help me along.
    The MSD Atomic EFI is a big question mark for me. From the research I've done, it seems that the returnless setup works much better when the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, primarily since the gas acts as a coolant, and this prevents the pump from overheating.

    For me, this is still theory. I hope I can get it to work in practice.

    Quote Originally Posted by jayguy View Post
    Your garage cleanup has me looking at my own garage and wishing it was that empty. At least right now I can fit 2 motorcycles on my half, along with my tools and parts shelves. And a car still fits on the other side. Maybe I'll have a bigger shop by the time I order my kit.

    Good luck with the build, I'll be watching.
    I looked at my cluttered garage for years before doing something about it. The kit made me clean it up. While de-cluttering, I had flashbacks to childhood, when I needed to eat my vegetables to earn a dessert.
    Last edited by carbon-12; 02-04-2014 at 06:54 PM.

  20. #20
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    Ken,
    Don't sweat the members here that feel the need to complain about EVERYTHING, even when that something is YOURS. Run your non-profit, no-vendor, informative and fun blog as you wish. Like you said, if you don't want to click the link-don't. I got about 99% of my car, and am still waiting for a few more items. I picked mine up on 12/22. Did you get everything? I'm still missing the tank straps and a few other odds and ends. Like you mentioned earlier in your post, the alternate parts through aftermarket vendors is plentiful, and quite overwhelming. Good luck on the build, I'm looking forward to following it closely.
    Regards,
    Paul
    FFR #8214 -2nd gen Coyote-Wilwood setup-Hydroboost-17" Halibrand-3 Link-TKO600

    2003 Mercury Marauder Vortech V2 T-Trim 518rwhp 11.70 @ 121mph

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaGod View Post
    Ken,
    Don't sweat the members here that feel the need to complain about EVERYTHING, even when that something is YOURS. Run your non-profit, no-vendor, informative and fun blog as you wish. Like you said, if you don't want to click the link-don't. I got about 99% of my car, and am still waiting for a few more items. I picked mine up on 12/22. Did you get everything? I'm still missing the tank straps and a few other odds and ends. Like you mentioned earlier in your post, the alternate parts through aftermarket vendors is plentiful, and quite overwhelming. Good luck on the build, I'm looking forward to following it closely.
    Regards,
    Paul
    Thanks, Paul. When I saw "2003 Mercury Marauder...", I knew it was you before I even saw your name.

    I got most of my parts, but I'm still missing a few things. Like you, it's mostly odds and ends. I was most disappointed that the gauges are still on backorder. I really wanted to see how they look. But, I imagine they'll arrive before I need them.

    Ken

  22. #22
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    Right now, I'm in the very early stages of my build, and it's come time to remove the aluminum panels which shipped attached to the chassis. I wrote detailed notes before I began. They are organized according to the table listed on page 26 of my Mk4 Roadster Complete Kit Assembly Manual (Revision 3T, April 2013). For each panel, I give the item number, part number, and description. Then, I note how adjoining panels overlap, indicate over or under relationships for each. If a panel doesn't overlap any others, I note it was “clear”. Also, to correctly orient my directions (top, bottom, left, right), I describe where I was standing and where I was looking.

    Only the parts attached to the car when it shipped are included on this list. I'll need to figure out how to overlap the other panels in the kit later on, but I assume that most will lay on top of these panels. We'll see.

    I wrote more about the process which led to this list, and how my aluminum "goes to 45" on threebolts.com.

    Code:
    Attached Aluminum Panel List
    
    #10 / 15022: Rear Cockpit Corner, Driver Side
    View: standing on the driver side of car, looking toward the rear of the car, with your left hip next to the driver door hinge.
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: over #31
    Left-side: under #12
    Right-side: clear
    
    #11 / 15022: Rear Cockpit Corner, Passenger Side
    View: standing on the passenger side of car, looking toward the rear of the car, with your right hip next to the passenger door hinge.
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: over #32
    Left-side: clear
    Right-side: under #12
    
    #12 / 10823: Rear Cockpit Vertical Wall Behind Seats
    View: standing on the driver side of car, looking toward the rear of the car, with your left hip next to the driver door hinge.
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side-right: over #31
    Bottom-side-left: over #31
    Left-side: over #32
    Right-side: over #11
    
    #14 / 12985: Driver Side Dropped Floor.
    View: standing on the driver side of car, stooped over looking into the driver cockpit toward the front of the car, with your left hip next to the driver door hinge.
    Top-side (toward front of car): under #15
    Bottom-side: clear.
    Left-side: under #17
    Right-side: clear.
    
    #15 / 14733: Driver Footbox, Front Wall, Patch Panel
    View: standing with your left hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
    Top-side-right: over #18
    Top-side-left: over #29
    Bottom: over #14
    Left-side-upper: under #30
    Left-side-lower: over #30
    Right-side: over #17.
    
    #17 / 10554: Driver Footbox, Front Walls, Outside
    View: standing next to driver side of car facing toward passenger side, with your with your right hip one step back from the driver door hinge.
    Top-side: over #18
    Bottom-side: over #14
    Left-side: under #15
    Right-side: clear
    
    #18 / 10858: Driver Footbox, Top Outside Section
    View: standing next to driver side of car facing toward passenger side, with your left hand side toward the front of car.
    Top-side: under #29
    Bottom-side: under #17
    Left-side: under #15
    Right-side: clear
    
    #19 / 10863: Engine Bay "F" Right
    Clear on all sides
    
    #20 / 10864: Engine Bay "F" Right
    Clear on all sides
    
    #21 / 15015: Right Footbox, Top/Outside, Passenger
    View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
    Bottom-side: under #26
    Left-side: over #35
    Right-side: over #33
    
    #22 / 15223: Trunk Wall (Driver Side)
    View: standing directly behind the car, angled at a 45-degree angle toward the driver side
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: #23 passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
    Right-side: clear
    
    #22 / 15223: Trunk Wall (Passenger Side)
    View: standing directly behind the car, angled at a 45-degree angle toward the passenger side
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: #23 passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
    Left-side: clear
    
    #23 / 15222: Rear Trunk Floor
    View: standing directly behind the car, facing toward the front.
    Top-side: under #25
    Bottom-side: clear
    Left-side: #22 (driver side) passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
    Right-side: #22 (passenger side) passes to the side of it, but doesn't overlap, strictly speaking
    
    #25 / 10560: Front Trunk Floor
    View: standing directly behind the car, facing toward the front.
    Top-side: clear, but abuts #12 without going over or under
    Bottom-side: over #23
    Left-side: over #39, and also over an unnumbered free-floating patch panel.
    Right-side: over #38, and also over an unnumbered free-floating patch panel.
    
    #26 / 13138: Passenger Footbox, Vertical Wall, Front Wall
    View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
    Top-side-left: over #21
    Top-side-rightx: over #33
    Bottom-side: over #27
    Left-side: over #35
    Right-side: under #36
    
    #27 / 13634: Passenger Footbox, Dropped Floor
    View: standing on the passenger side of car, stooped over looking into the passenger cockpit toward the front of the car, with your right hip next to the passenger door hinge.
    Top-side: over #26
    Bottom-side: clear
    Left-side: over #36
    Right-side: under #35
    
    #29 / 10859: Driver Footbox, Top, Inside
    View: standing next to driver side of car facing toward passenger side, with your left hand side toward the front of car.
    Top-side: under #30
    Bottom-side: over #18
    Left-side: under #15
    Right-side: abut #28
    
    #30 / 10905: Driver Footbox, Vertical Wall, Inside
    View: standing on the passenger side of car, looking toward the driver side, with your left hip next to the passenger door hinge.
    Top-side: over #29
    Right-side-upper: over #15
    Right-side-lower: under #15
    Bottom-side: over #31
    Right-side: under #34
    
    #31 / 10557: Cockpit Floor, Driver Side, w/ Tunnel Wall
    View: standing on the driver side of car, facing toward the front of the car, with your right hip next to the roll bar support.
    Top-side (toward front of car): mostly clear, except for corner near transmission tunnel, where it goes under #30.
    Bottom-side: under #10 and #22.
    Left-side: clear
    Right-side: mostly clear, except for edge near the front part of the transmission tunnel, where it goes over #34.
    
    #32 / 10558: Cockpit Floor, Passenger Side, w/ Tunnel Wall
    View: standing on the passenger side of car, facing toward the front of the car, with your left hip next to the roll bar support.
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: under #11 and #12
    Left-side: clear
    Right-side: mostly clear, except for edge near the front part of the transmission tunnel, where it goes over #34
    
    #33 / 10853: Passenger Footbox, Top
    View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: under #26
    Left-side: under #21
    Right-side: clear
    
    #34 / 12806: Trans Tunnel, Front Vertical Wall
    View: standing on the driver side of car, facing toward the firewall, with your right hip next to the roll bar support.
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: clear
    Left-side-inner-bottom-two-thirds in corner near transmission tunnel: under #31.
    Left-side-outer: under #31.
    Right-side: under #30, and on the very bottom, under #31.
    
    #35 / 10551: Passenger Footbox, Vertical Wall, Outside
    View: standing next to passenger side of car facing toward driver side, with your left hip one step back from the passenger door hinge.
    Top-side: under #21
    Bottom-side: under #26
    Left-side: clear
    Right-side: over #32
    
    #36 / 13139: Passenger Footbox, Vertical Wall, Inside
    View: standing with your right hip next to the engine bay facing toward the rear of the car.
    Top-side: under #33
    Bottom-side: over #27
    Left-side: over #26
    Right-side: under #34
    
    #38 / 15403: Outside Trunk Wall, Right
    View: standing one step back from the rear passenger-side wheel well, looking toward the driver side
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: under #25, as far as #25 goes
    Left-side: clear
    Right-side: clear
    
    #39 / 15402: Outside Trunk Wall, Left
    View: standing one step back from the rear driver-side wheel well, looking toward the passenger side
    Top-side: clear
    Bottom-side: under #25, as far as #25 goes
    Left-side: clear
    Right-side: clear
    
    #45 / No part number: Panel on passenger side, right above passenger door hinge, next to firewall 
    Clear on all sides

  23. #23
    2bking's Avatar
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    You have a lot of patience to log the panels that way. Me, I numbered them to identify adjacent panels and just took pictures. But, the best made plans..... the numbers disappeared when I cleaned them so the adjacent panel info was lost. But the pictures still provided the layout.

    Nice build site.
    Last edited by 2bking; 02-05-2014 at 02:16 AM.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  24. #24
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    Do you have a timeline/timeframe for your build? How long do you anticipate?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bking View Post
    You have a lot of patience to log the panels that way. Me, I numbered them to identify adjacent panels and just took pictures. But, the best made plans..... the numbers disappeared when I cleaned them so the adjacent panel info was lost. But the pictures still provided the layout.

    Nice build site.
    I'm not sure if it's patience I have, or just an abnormal tolerance for tedium. :-)

    I hope the notes I took will come in handy, but if not, then I can fall back on my pictures, the assembly manual, and the forum.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by montyals View Post
    Do you have a timeline/timeframe for your build? How long do you anticipate?
    Honestly, I don't know how long my build will take. I hope it will take less than a year, and that doesn't seem ridiculously ambitious to me now, given that I already have a crate engine and a transmission sitting in my garage, and I plan to send out the body work and paint. We'll see. Stay tuned!

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbon-12 View Post
    Honestly, I don't know how long my build will take. I hope it will take less than a year, and that doesn't seem ridiculously ambitious to me now, given that I already have a crate engine and a transmission sitting in my garage, and I plan to send out the body work and paint. We'll see. Stay tuned!
    A year is doable. I had also given myself a year but ended up finishing the car in 5 months. You can see my car in the "license and registration" thread.

  28. #28
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Ken, you said you got your kit last weekend ,where might you be and when was your pickup date?
    If you dont mind me asking, mine was 1/18 with Stewart picking up week of the 20th.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by montyals View Post
    A year is doable. I had also given myself a year but ended up finishing the car in 5 months. You can see my car in the "license and registration" thread.
    It looks like you did an illegally good job on your kit. Heh.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Ken, you said you got your kit last weekend ,where might you be and when was your pickup date?
    If you dont mind me asking, mine was 1/18 with Stewart picking up week of the 20th.
    Pickup was 1/12 or 1/13. Delivery was 1/26. I'm in San Jose, CA.

  31. #31
    Member mike w's Avatar
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    Ken, I really like the way you set up your website with all the links. It gives me the choice to click (or not) depending on what interest I have any particular topic that you post on it. You certaily have alot of patience to write up all this detail. I made sure that I book marked your web site so that I can keep up with your build progess.

    Mike
    Mk-3 FFR 5558, 351W, Comp Xtreme Energy Cam, Aluminum Heads, Roller Rockers, Mallory Comp S/S 42 Distributor, Edelbrock RPM Performer, 670 Holley Street Avenger, T-5, 3:08 Posi, 15" Team III Wheels, BF Goodrich T/A 225/60R-15, 275/50R-15, 4-wheel disc brakes, Electric Blue/White Stripes.

  32. #32
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    They did good on yours, I'm in NM and last I could find out from ffr, Stewart was supposed to pick up my kit last Friday, I have not heard from anybody if they did or not. Thanks for the info. And I will be watching your build.

    Walt

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike w View Post
    Ken, I really like the way you set up your website with all the links. It gives me the choice to click (or not) depending on what interest I have any particular topic that you post on it. You certaily have alot of patience to write up all this detail. I made sure that I book marked your web site so that I can keep up with your build progess.

    Mike
    Thanks for the feedback. I hope to keep it interesting!

  34. #34
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    Might want to add your website link to your sig. (and any other pertinent build info)
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  35. #35
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    I intend to powder coat all the aluminum panels in my kit, using the equipment available at the TechShop in San Jose, CA. I'd never powder coated before this project, and when I took my first batch out of the oven, I saw that I hadn't sprayed enough powder onto the passenger-side "F" panel (which is an upgrade I bought from FFMetal). This left a speckly finish with some metal poking through.



    I decided to redo this part. This got me thinking about how I spend time, and I talk more about it on threebolts.com.

    It took an hour and a half in the sandblaster, but I managed to wipe off my failed effort, and apply a better coat.


  36. #36
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Pretty cool that you have access to things like PC equipment nearby!

    Maybe you have done so already and I haven't seen the update, or perhaps you prefer to work in a different sequence, but generally the accepted order is to fit, trim &/or bend as necessary and drill the aluminum panels prior to powdercoating so that they can be installed without needing further work thereby minimizing the chances of marring the finish.

    Carry on and good luck!

    Jeff

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Pretty cool that you have access to things like PC equipment nearby!

    Maybe you have done so already and I haven't seen the update, or perhaps you prefer to work in a different sequence, but generally the accepted order is to fit, trim &/or bend as necessary and drill the aluminum panels prior to powdercoating so that they can be installed without needing further work thereby minimizing the chances of marring the finish.

    Carry on and good luck!

    Jeff
    If I were confident in all the skills I need to do this project, I might do the aluminum work in a different order. As it is, everything I try is pretty new to me, and I admit to feeling a little overwhelmed by all the things I don't know.

    So, I decided to start building up my powder coating skills now. I've done only a few parts so far, and the ones I chose are either block-off plates, or are panels which have either no overlaps or simple ones. I hope to take your advice for other panels later on, and do the fitting and drilling before the powder coating.

    I plan to do my first drilling and riveting this evening (the "F" panels), and that will be a start on building up those skills. If I discover that some panels need their powder coating redone, I don't mind.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Ken

  38. #38
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    My advice is to fit and temporarily affix all of the panels (cleco while initially fitting, then put a couple metal screws to hold it until later).
    Build the entire car to gel-coat / go-kart, then you know exactly where all of the panels go, any cutting required and any additional holes for wires, cables, hoses etc.
    Don't rivet or finish anything this early in the build. If you have to remove it, it will be a PITA, you might damage / destroy it, and cutting larger holes or trimming can be damn near impossible while still on the car.
    Take it from all of the Reality TV car / chopper build shows, there's a very good reason why they do a full build mock-up, then send everything out for paint & powder-coat.

    It's more work & more time, but the end result is a better fit and less damage to finished panels.

    A lot of guys (because the manual says so) rivet the F Panels way too early. I had mine on & off over a half dozen times to get access to some areas. What's the hurry? When I was ready for final build, I took them off, sanded, brushed the aluminum on the engine side, coated it with Shark-hide, and coated the tire side with truck-bed liner. Then installed any rivnuts I needed, before final riveting. No way could I have done this if I riveted them when the manual suggested.

    It also allowed me to assemble it stock, then determine what I wanted to modify and get better measurements, working with the raw panels, before finishing them and chancing damaging the finish:
    • Expanded PS Footbox
    • DS Footbox gas pedal bump out
    • DS footbox top access panel
    • Firewall Forward
    • Rear bulkhead cubby
    • PS F-Panel mod (no hole)
    • SS heat-shields
    • Installing Cobra-Earls vents


    One other suggestion: when I took my mock-up panels off, before final silicon/riveting, I made a pattern of each footbox panel with poster board. Then I was able to create my damplifier panels and affix them to the panels before final assembly. And I'll be able to use these patterns also for cutting my carpet when I go to install it after paint. Trying to install the damplifier in a finished footbox is a major PITA.
    Last edited by MPTech; 02-07-2014 at 11:37 AM.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPTech View Post
    My advice is to fit and temporarily affix all of the panels (cleco while initially fitting, then put a couple metal screws to hold it until later).
    Build the entire car to gel-coat / go-kart, then you know exactly where all of the panels go, any cutting required and any additional holes for wires, cables, hoses etc.
    Don't rivet or finish anything this early in the build. If you have to remove it, it will be a PITA, you might damage / destroy it, and cutting larger holes or trimming can be damn near impossible while still on the car.
    Take it from all of the Reality TV car / chopper build shows, there's a very good reason why they do a full build mock-up, then send everything out for paint & powder-coat.

    It's more work & more time, but the end result is a better fit and less damage to finished panels.

    A lot of guys (because the manual says so) rivet the F Panels way too early. I had mine on & off over a half dozen times to get access to some areas. What's the hurry? When I was ready for final build, I took them off, sanded, brushed the aluminum on the engine side, coated it with Shark-hide, and coated the tire side with truck-bed liner. Then installed any rivnuts I needed, before final riveting. No way could I have done this if I riveted them when the manual suggested.

    It also allowed me to assemble it stock, then determine what I wanted to modify and get better measurements, working with the raw panels, before finishing them and chancing damaging the finish:
    • Expanded PS Footbox
    • DS Footbox gas pedal bump out
    • DS footbox top access panel
    • Firewall Forward
    • Rear bulkhead cubby
    • PS F-Panel mod (no hole)
    • SS heat-shields
    • Installing Cobra-Earls vents


    One other suggestion: when I took my mock-up panels off, before final silicon/riveting, I made a pattern of each footbox panel with poster board. Then I was able to create my damplifier panels and affix them to the panels before final assembly. And I'll be able to use these patterns also for cutting my carpet when I go to install it after paint. Trying to install the damplifier in a finished footbox is a major PITA.
    Wow. Excellent advice. I'm going to read this over again more thoroughly this evening, and change my plans accordingly. Thanks!

  40. #40
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    I wrote a post on threebolts.com about this wonderfully-detailed advice, and how I intend to change my plans for dealing with my aluminum panels.

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