OEM Brake upgrades

[flynntuna]

This rear brake upgrade will give you better rear rotors cooling. The H6 rotors are bigger, so some increase in performance. What you really need is more braking force from the rear wheels.

I don't know if your parts are correct.
Bob

True, but I have the Wilwood pedal box and planning on using the EBC yellow stuff pads. Hopefully it will be enough for a starting point. If not the I can upgrade from there.

[bow2091]

If you have not bought anything yet this Ebay # 292159266302 may be a option they also carry just calipers and brackets Ebay # 391850470943

[flynntuna]

Thanks for the links, but, this mod only replaces the capilper bracket to accomadate the larger rotor of the H6 outback. It keeps the stock caliper. While this mod by itself doesn't improve performance by much, it does improve cooling like Bob said in an earlier post and looks better in the wheel.
I'm hoping the the ability of the balance bar on the Wilwood pedal box and the yellow stuff pads as I said in my previous post will be enough for my needs.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=522006
http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread...=&threadid=814

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm hoping the the ability of the balance bar on the Wilwood pedal box and the yellow stuff pads as I said in my previous post will be enough for my needs.

You will be good to go fast with those 2 changes.
Bob

[tmoretta]

Is the H6 upgrade still considered an effective way to get more rear braking effort? My 818S has '02 WRX brakes (2 pot, 1 pot) and even with my bias valves limiting pressure to the front brakes, the rear brakes never lock. Any advantage to changing to 2 pot rear calipers?

[DanielsDM]

Any advantage to changing to 2 pot rear calipers?

Yes! Check out Frankc5r's thread on brake calculations.
The rear has more weight than the front and with the low COG there is less rear to front weight transfer under braking. The pressure limiting bias valve on the front is not a very good solution.

[phil1734]

The 2-pot calipers Frank suggests are wilwoods and have twice the piston area.

The Subaru 2-pot rears still have the same piston area as the single pots, so the only improvement comes from a marginally larger brake reaction moment since the calipers are mounted further out. I'm not sure what the piston area of the H6 calipers are, but I believe it's a similar situation.

For the cost involved and what is at stake, use Frank's wilwoods or adapt a set of front calipers.

[frankc5r]

The Wilwoods are very nice but do cost more than
adapting the stock fronts to rear like Bob
and Cincy.

[flynntuna]

I think I remember somewhere reading here on the forum of putting for street applications of standard brake pads in the front and yellow stuff in the rear. Does anyone else remember this, or am I imagining this?

[tmoretta]

I am currently running HP + pads in front, yellows in rear. Not a satisfactory solution.

[frankc5r]

I think I remember somewhere reading here on the forum of putting for street applications of standard brake pads in the front and yellow stuff in the rear. Does anyone else remember this, or am I imagining this?

My brake calc program showed a minor improvement with higher mu pads.

[tmoretta]

Is my '02 WRX rear caliper the same as the H6 rear caliper? So I only would then need to source the H6 brackets and larger diameter rotors?

[frankc5r]

Is my '02 WRX rear caliper the same as the H6 rear caliper? So I only would then need to source the H6 brackets and larger diameter rotors?

Not sure about that but the WRX rear caliper has small piston and is not the best to use.

[flynntuna]

Here's a link for interchangeable brakes

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t22178...ility-faq.html

[EODTech87]

The caliper is the same. I originally purchased everything for the H6 rear conversion but decided I'm going Wilwood rears now.

[tmoretta]

Do you have those H6 parts to sell? PM me if so.

[flynntuna]

Grassroots motorsports magazine has a good article to add to the discussion....http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...aking-systems/

[Scargo]

Grassroots motorsports magazine has a good article to add to the discussion....http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...aking-systems/

Though dated, it is pretty good for those starting out or with little experience with brakes and racing. Written by "Staff Writer", I was a bit amused by how they started the Brake Pad section, where they contradict themselves about friction and then say the pads push against the rotors when it is the caliper's pistons that do the pushing. But that's minor and just hit me as odd in an overall good article.
I've known that pads not up to racing environs can literally crumble and fall apart from excessive heat but I thought of fade as a fluid only issue. Sorta like, the pads work or they don't work, given how much heat they are exposed to, not that they can go from good friction to lousy friction and work with varying degrees of efficiency based on heat and actually get to the "fade stage" quickly.
OTOH, now that I think about it, I have had a rare instance where Hawk DTC 70's got to where I ran out of brake and pushing harder on the pedal did not help and did not cause the ABS to engage.

[lsfourwheeler]

Grassroots motorsports magazine has a good article to add to the discussion....http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/art...aking-systems/

If I'm honest, I think that article is quite misleading when it comes to their brake pad explanation. The pads 100% are responsible for the stopping and especially under high-temp conditions such as the track. That said, and perhaps what they were trying to get at, is for street usage a more aggressive pad will not reduce stopping distances. This is true as even the worst brakes on a new car today have the capability of locking up the tires and/or engaging ABS thus the real determining factor in street stopping distance is tire grip. But on track, a high temp pad is very important just as high temp fluid is. Both items contribute to the sensation of brake fade when they reach temperatures beyond their ideal operating range and both will degrade braking performance in those situations. When fluid boils, you have to push the pedal further for a desired braking force. When a pad overheats, you have to press the pedal harder for a desired braking force. Both can be unnerving to experience on track.

[flynntuna]

I have a newbie question. Do all non STI brake calipers have the same thread size and pitch for the hose connections? Can WRX brake lines be used on forester calipers?
I found out that WRX uses m10x1.00 on the banjo bolts from the Cobb website , wondering though if stainless steel brake lines are interchangeable ?

https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en...re-Information

Thanks in advance

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I have a newbie question. Do all non STI brake calipers have the same thread size and pitch for the hose connections? Can WRX brake lines be used on forester calipers?
I found out that WRX uses m10x1.00 on the banjo bolts from the Cobb website , wondering though if stainless steel brake lines are interchangeable ?

https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en...re-Information

Thanks in advance

My 07 & 06 NA impreza were M10x1.0
Also 'My 04 &05 Forester XT were M10 x 1.0
All cast iron calipers.
Bob

[Scargo]

I think Bob's correct and I can add that my '07 & '08 STi are the same and I think '05-'06 are too. Otherwise, differences in hoses are subtle.

[Mitch Wright]

I have AP calipers rotors on my R https://www.essexparts.com/essex-des...0299brzfrsgt86 front and rear with DS2500 pads https://www.essexparts.com/ferodo-ds2500-brake-pads655 The brakes are awesome. The front is a bolt on to a WRX upright. I had a make and adaptor for the rear.