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Thread: 15th Anniversary MKIV build thread - TROJAN

  1. #41
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68GT500MAN View Post
    David, Did you move your engine turning equipment into the new shop? That space looks great.
    Doug
    Yes I did. I have a few panels to make some bezels and what-not. I forgot; what were you looking for?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  2. #42
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    Will this be at HB this year?
    MK4 delivery 12/17/11
    Build thread: HERE
    Epic First start video HERE

    Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
    Build thread: HERE

  3. #43
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    That engine is a thing of beauty!
    Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be

  4. #44
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QSL View Post
    Will this be at HB this year?
    Yup...

    What. You Worried?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  5. #45
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    me? worried no way! You are an official of the event. You winning would stink of conspiracy. Would be like Dave smith winning. There would need to be re counts done and I don't even want to mention the riots. Sure, the riots would consist of only Julie, but still. She can be a mean little red head.
    MK4 delivery 12/17/11
    Build thread: HERE
    Epic First start video HERE

    Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
    Build thread: HERE

  6. #46
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Mike, I won't be eligible because 'll probably end up being a judge but that doesn't mean I won't be showing off the build!

    To whit; here's a shot from Mike Forte building the engine on the dyno. I'm hoping it will ship this week! Ain't she purdy?:


    The lift is coming soon so time to start building! Carpe diem!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  7. #47
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    Oh, well, have i ever told you how cool you are and how much I respect you.
    MK4 delivery 12/17/11
    Build thread: HERE
    Epic First start video HERE

    Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
    Build thread: HERE

  8. #48
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QSL View Post
    Oh, well, have i ever told you how cool you are and how much I respect you.
    Dude, you can't openly bribe me in a thread.

    That's what PM's are for.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  9. #49
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    Cool $5.00 may just make its way into your paypal account.
    MK4 delivery 12/17/11
    Build thread: HERE
    Epic First start video HERE

    Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
    Build thread: HERE

  10. #50
    Tool Baron frankeeski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QSL View Post
    Cool $5.00 may just make its way into your paypal account.
    Too late Mike, I already took care of "gifts" for David, Karen and Miller. That trophy is mine!
    Frank
    __________________________
    Factory Five Racing MKIII Super Snake Replica. Cannonball Cobra Drop Trunk Box, Horn Button and other machined Do Dads.
    i.e.427 Chromed Full Width Roll Bar with integrated LED Third Brake Light.
    I will never forget My Buddy Paul.

  11. #51
    Senior Member QSL's Avatar
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    Thats not fair frank. You should be disqualified for best in progress, you have had 12 years to perfect it. LOL
    MK4 delivery 12/17/11
    Build thread: HERE
    Epic First start video HERE

    Type 65 Coupe Ordered 01/17/13
    Build thread: HERE

  12. #52
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Who ARE you people!??


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  13. #53
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    The motor arrives today!

    I've been working on setting up our new little shop and have been installing a new 4 post lift. Here's a pic of the powere poll with the air lines in. Looks like I'll need to replace the feeder with one a few inches longer:


    This pic shows the scissor lift under the chassis so we can lift the wheels off the rails, No more jack stands!:


    And here's a shot of how it sits today, Waiting for the NEW (374 HP) BOSS 302 motor to arrive:


    I'm telling you, this shop is dinkey! I don't want to put the engine pallet there, but it looks like I have no choice. I guess we'll find out later today!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  14. #54
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    You are right, the space is too small, I will be right down to pick it up and get it out of your way!
    Doug
    Built FFR5196 MKII in 2003, 427w
    Building FFR0058HR, Edlebrock 347-AOD

  15. #55
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Doug, sorry; the motor is already in!

    The motor arrived Friday afternoon, 3/20:


    We didn't waste any time getting to work unpacking and in short order we got our first peek:


    I decided to keep the box so I could put those big Ford Racing logos on the wall of the shop. We continued to inventory and found out we were missing a few small things. Even though it was going into the weekend Mike Forte was on the case and a small care package was sent out Saturday morning so I would have it Monday or Tuesday.
    As soon as the motor was unpacked we started prepping the motor to drop in "as a mockup" so I could start working on electrical. I pulled up the Holley EFI and stuck a lifting plate on:


    And started mounting the Headers. Then we took time out for a few more glamour shots:


    Here's a cool shot before we dropped in the motor:


    Without any further ado we pulled out the ol' engine hoist and dropped that sucker into it's new home:


    cont...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  16. #56
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I ran into my first "issue" after the motor was in. The header is physically hitting the engine mount. How do I fix this?


    I also noticed that even with the trans mount on, the rear of the trans is hitting the 4" cross member. A quick call to Mike ensued and he said a 3/4" spacer is needed to level the motor/ I'm hoping it will pull the back of the oil pan and bellhousing above the frame rails:


    I wasn't able to clear the oil filter so an oil relocation kit was ordered. The FFR one was deemed not worthy...

    The hydraulic slave was mounted. This is another fine piece from Fortes:


    While I was under the car I noticed I had missed some riveting of the front of the pedal box so I got to test out the new scissor lift to lift the front of the chassis so I could get a drill in there:


    I could never get shots like this before!:


    Here's a few more shots I took before wrapping up the weekend. MAJOR wiring project is next, after I fix the header issue:



    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  17. #57
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    That looks great in there David. The silver powdercoat and that turned firewall really set it off nicely! (still amazed at that firewall and the polished stripes, COOL touch!)

    Keep up the great work! It's going to be a Stunner!
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  18. #58
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Let me guess David...Ford Racing shorties? When they're turned around backwards like they have to be on the FFR they don't play nice with the passenger side motor mount. BBK shorties fit without interference.

    Ford Racing on the top, BBK below:



    And installed:





    Short of replacing what you have I'm afraid your only option is to cut/grind the mount &/or dimple the header tube.

    Good luck,
    Jeff

  19. #59
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Jeff, that's unfortunate, but good that there is an alternative to whacking the headers with a BFH...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  20. #60
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Jeff, thanks for your help. The BBK 15150 Ceramic coated 302 shorty headers were ordered today.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  21. #61
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    I had the same clearance problem with the JBA headers I put on my 4.6. As far as I know, the only solution was to cut the riveted tab off of the motor mount and weld the joint solid, so that's what I did. I had to do both sides that way, and still had to slightly dimple one header tube on the drivers side to clear the rear rounded corner of the motor mount perch. For me, the BBK shortys wouldn't work at all-had to send them back. Kudos to Jeff for helping all of us with his vast knowledge. I wish he had more experience with 4.6 engines in these cars.
    Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be

  22. #62
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    That should solve it David!

    Thanks for the vote of confidence and kind words Ray! One of these days I'll build a 4.6 car. I keep threatening to do a 4.6, automatic, A/C, IRS, undercar exhaust one for my wife (she's already chosen the color) but have had a steady stream of customer ones filling the garage. My buddy Ron E. (FFinisher, aka RE63) is the mod motor and Coyote guru.

    Cheers,
    Jeff

  23. #63
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I got the back-ordered clutch fork from Mike Forte and installed it last night. It's the real deal:






    The only real thing to note here is how high I have to set the adjustable pivot ball. It's this thing, that screws into the bellhousing and gets captured with a nut:


    In order to get the fork to the position below I had to set the pivot ball way out close to the clutch. How does this position look?




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  24. #64
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    Thinking about that clutch setup myself. Looks pretty good. Does it come with the master cylinder too?

  25. #65
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ehansen007 View Post
    Thinking about that clutch setup myself. Looks pretty good. Does it come with the master cylinder too?
    The clutch, master cylinder and slave were all purchased from Fortes.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  26. #66
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    That looks good. Even a pretty clutch!
    Doug
    Built FFR5196 MKII in 2003, 427w
    Building FFR0058HR, Edlebrock 347-AOD

  27. #67
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Thanks Doug. Pink's the new orange.

    So time for another update. I received some trans mount spacers and a De-gas tank from Mike Forte:


    So I was able to finish the clutch setup and mounted the trans support to check the trans height. I have to say, Mike's hydraulic clutch is a great product. I already have an earlier version of it on my roadster and on this build he added a braided flex line in the kit that goes all the way from the clutch to the master cylinder, completely eliminating the need for a hard line. So the whole setup is truly a bolt-on affair:





    The trans spacers are nice too. On my first build I just drilled holes in some think aluminum but this gives a very finished look (although no one will ever see them!).



    This is the position of the trans over the 4" cross tube:



    Seems like a good position. The mid shift is definitely going to hit the cross member on top though. It'll be a real bummer if I have to cut and re-weld that tube. I can't match the powder coat with any paint I know of. I don't know why FFR still has that cross member there, when it can easily be move 1/2" to the rear.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  28. #68
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    It's been over a week since my last update but I've been working on the car every day.

    Let's see... This week I started mocking up the throttle linkage provided by Mike Forte, pulled the upper steering shaft and cut off the tapered top in preparation for welding on the quick release steering wheel, built a steering wheel by adding the quick release hub from Breeze automotive, replaced the FMS shorty headers with BBK shorties, finished the fuel hard line install and made a bracket for the fuel pressure regulator(FPR). Here are the details:

    The FMS shorty headers have interferance issues with the motor mounts supplied by FFR so some BBK units were ordered. When they arrived I took this shot of the passenger side headers so show the difference:


    With the FMS piece it's the #4 cylander that has the issue. The BBK addresses this with a few more strategic bends so that the pipe is tucked into the header a lot closer. I don't believe this is an issue with the mustang convertible motor mounts I purchased from Levy Racing for my first build but they simply don't work with the FFR supplied mounts. The new units are nice, and made in the USA so I have no reservations about making the swap.

    Last week I had AN6 bungs welded to hard lines that were going to run into the engine bay from under the car. The hard lines that ship with the kit are smaller pieces, not the long coiled lines that used to ship with the kit. It's impossible to route from the tank to the engine bay in one shot so my first leg of the routing goes from the fuel tank and terminates under the passenger footbox. On Good Friday I had a vacation day to spend working on the car so the plan was to attach a short hard line to extend the hard line into the engine bay and then switch to braided steel soft lines that connect to the fuel rail and FPR. But when I was bending the larger feed line around the 2" round tube at the front of the foot box I kinked the line! Grrr. So while contemplating redoing the line I noticed that the braided lines supplied with the motor are long enough to go from the motor to the existing hard lines. When I received the motor from Mike, these soft lines were attached to the FPR, which was mounted to the back of the motor. Now, I KNEW I had to find a new home for it, but got ahead of myself (again) and cut the braided fuel line while mocking up the connections to the existing hard line! SO a new braided steel line was ordered from Summit and the fuel plumbing project was put on the back burner for a few days. In the mean time, I had to create a bracket to hold the FPR. We have a small outboard boat company next to us at the shop and they are always discarding scrap metal. I dug a steel bracket out of their scrap pile which was perfect except for a 90 degree angle which I would have to straighten. I hit it with heat and straightened it out in my vice. It actually came out pretty good so the plan now is to polish it up and engine turn it. From scrap metal to blingy bracket. Nice:



    On to something else, and I decided to start building the steering wheel. I say building because the kit that Breeze supplies requires you to drill and tap the hub that the wheel mounts to, and to weld the quick release ribbed inner sleeve to the top of the upper steering shaft, after cutting off the last ~1" that is tapered. Here's the shaft after I cut off the end:


    And here is the new piece that needs to be welded:



    I have two steering wheels for the car, the wood one and the leather one. So I set about building those and actually completed the leather one but as I was tapping the second hub I dropped the tap and broke the tap handle! GRR AGAIN!


    Since my backup handle was at home I again was forced to abandon this project as well for the day. As I said though, I did manage to complete one wheel before I broke the tap handle:



    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  29. #69
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    A few days later the new braided fuel line arrived and I was able to finish the install. Here are a few pics showing the loop from the engine compartment to under the car and the connection to the hard lines. In this first shot, the actual lines are on the right, with their reflection off the passenger foot box on the left:


    And the hard/soft line connection:


    Also this week I started mocking up the throttle linkage. Drilling through the firewall was stressful!


    After the first hole was set up I took the firewall out so that I could line up the second hole, which will be inside the driver's footbox. This was much easier than trying to line up the holes while it was mounted:



    This is what the linkage looks like now. I'm planning to finish the setup today. I just hope I don't mess upi drilling the hole through the driver's footbox panel!



    I need to find some nice stainless washers to replace these generic ones. Does anyone have a suggestion?

    I'm going to continue to thrash until HB with the goal of being able to drive the go-cart on and off the trailer. My wife is certain I won't make it!

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  30. #70
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    Very Impressive! I really like the idea of being able to choose which steering wheel to use depending on your mood or the task at hand, whether it be an autocross course or an evening cruise on one of those perfect weather days when you want to wax nostalgic about the "good old days". I'm putting my envy aside and sticking with the wood wheel. It really works with the reproduction 67-68 Mustang auto shifter I'm in the process of installing.
    Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be

  31. #71
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Horrible news. The throttle linkage as installed is too high. I need to re-drill the holes. I'm only going down as far as I can and still hide the hole behind the washer. If this doesn't work, the firewall will be scrapped...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  32. #72
    Carl carlewms's Avatar
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    I am getting ready to do set up the mechanical linkage ... why did it come out too high?

    BTW I feel for you ... that firewall is truly a work of art and it would be a shame to have to restart with a new piece.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  33. #73
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    I really hope you can make it work and save that firewall! When I was laying mine out, I made the aluminum actuator arms with the same distance between the shaft and the rod end hole as was between the butterfly shaft on the carb and where the rod end attaches to it. If my memory serves me correctly, my carb lever moves a distance of 2 1/2" from idle to WOT, so my arms will move the same amount front to back during WOT. My accelerator, however, is at a slightly different ratio. It moves about 2 15/16" from idle to WOT. I wanted more movement for easier throttle modulation. For comparisons sake, on my GMC Envoy, the accelerator pedal only moves 2" from idle to WOT. I was surprised when I measured it, though I shouldn't be. That SUV has always been hard to keep at a stable speed without putting it on cruise control, even though it's kind of flat here in the low country.

    Judging from the pictures, it looks like the actuator arms on the Forte linkage have more distance between the shaft and rod end attachment point than I put on mine. If so, your shaft placement will be more critical than mine-to make sure you have plenty of clearance inside the foot box. (arm end to top aluminum) It also looks like there is some extra material past the rod end. You could easily remove that from the arm that goes inside the foot box. (where no one would ever see it) I would explore that avenue if moving the shaft down the amount you're planning doesn't quite give you the clearance you need.

    (EDIT) I just went to the Forte website and saw that the actuator arms are adjustable for the ratio. You may not be able to remove as much material from the top as I first thought… I really hope you don't need to in order to save that panel.



    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Horrible news. The throttle linkage as installed is too high. I need to re-drill the holes. I'm only going down as far as I can and still hide the hole behind the washer. If this doesn't work, the firewall will be scrapped...

    Last edited by Ray W.; 04-11-2015 at 12:04 AM.
    Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be

  34. #74
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    Dave-

    Don't worry about the firewall. If you need to drill past the coverage of the washer, just fabricate a small cover out of metal. What I would envision is a large center circle like the washer, with a round extension on either end. Like a figure eight with a big center circle. I think it could easily look like a piece that was designed to fit there. No way I would get rid of the beautiful firewall! I wish I could include a picture of what I have in my head, and can probably figure out a way if you need me to, but I suspect you can design something far better than I could.

    In any event, keep up the awesome and enviable work!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  35. #75
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I was able to save the firewall!

    After the first attempt, i took it all apart again to re-drill the holes and shorten the linkages. Shortening the linkages was the easy part; just cut, redrill and tap:


    Then I drilled new holes in the firewall, this time with a slightly smaller bit and kept them within the washer footprint. The holes were not quite square the first time so I fixed that as well.:


    These next two shots are kind of blurry but you can see how the link rods line up with the footbbox frame rail and fuel rail. If you look closely you can also see how I bent my Russ Thompson throttle to work better with the ol' size 16's...:




    This next shot shows a couple of things. The washer had to be trimmed to clear the inner footbox wall; the hole and grommet alignment came out really nice and the brass fitting I hacked to create a clamp for the rod to keep it from sliding horizontally. I also trimmed the excess pivot rod the give the whole assembly a more finished look:


    I spent the rest of the weekend laying out the wiring harnesses in the engine bay an took the cockpit aluminum out one last time so I can drill for new wire retaining clips.

    This week will be all about wiring, which I severely suck at. Lots of questions to follow, so I hope you like wiring questions!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  36. #76
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    I'm glad you were able to save it!
    Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be

  37. #77
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Thanks Ray!

    I worked on it again last night. Sorry, no pics today...
    I sorted out the wiring, drilled and clecko'd the harnesses running through the trans tunnel and cut the ends off the solenoid harness so it could be extended to the solenoid on the starter, eliminating the remote solenoid. I've also decided (for now) to run the main battery lead directly to the solenoid and not into the cockpit to a "power bar". I still need to tie the engine harness into the main harness, but I did run the main engine harness power wires directly to the battery, as directed in the Holley HP EFI instructions. Lastly, I measured for the power steering hoses which will be manufactured today. I decided to try braided lines for this, and they should look good along side the remote oil filter braided lines.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  38. #78
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I went to the local hose shop to get the steering hose made and bought some new cables and connectors to extend the wiring harness this AM during an early lunch break. Theoretically, could I only be a few days away from hooking up the rad and going for FIRST START?!?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  39. #79
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Today is the 17th and my HB pre-party is ONE WEEK AWAY! ACK!

    The past few days has all been about wiring, and I also finished up the power steering hookups. Here are some shots of the steering hoses. Comments welcome. They ended up being a real tight fit! Techically they don't touch anywhere but the tolerances are too tight for comfort:





    On a side note, a buddy came over to use my lift and I got a chance to take a few shots outside. I kind of like this naked look. I might keep the panels off for HB to show off the brake hard line install and other normally-not-seen details:





    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  40. #80
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    After I got the roadster back in the garage it was on to wiring. I hadn't drilled any holes in the trans tunnel for wiring but using the lift to attack it from below helped greatly! Man, having a lift is night-and-day better for building!

    One un-related note: I don't think I have any choice... Looks like the cross bar MUST come out for the midshift... Why the heck FFR hasn't moved this over the years is beyond me:


    Here's a shot of the finished Forte Hydraulic clutch install. The braided steel line just needed 2 clamp installs and goes from the master to the slave in one shot. EASY-PEASY!


    OK, on to wiring. Because, you know, I LOVE wiring. :/

    The Holley HP EFI instructions say that the ECU harnes power wires MUST USE THE BATTERY TERMINALS. So I routed the loom to the rear battery box. It's the loom on the right. I left it there because I didn't want another loom anywhere near the top if the Diff. I also noticed that the rear harness would route better if it was captured with the battery cable, so I drilled out the clamp and redid it. Look at the difference in the photos. I think it's much cleaner now:




    I then moved forward to the engine bay to start routing and securing the main harness, the engine harness, and I also broke out the gauges so I could plug in all the sensors and run their harnesses. Well, maybe not ALL the gauges. The 15th anniversary gauges came with a clock instead of the oil temp gauge. No no no, that won't do. I just ordered the oil temp gauge and probe from FFR. I hope it makes it here before HB!

    Anyway, I removed the firewall one last time so I could have unfettered access to drill holes:


    As I went along, I routed everything I could through the hollow space under the intake. The top and front of the engine are almost devoid of visible wires, but the rear still looks like spaghetti! Yuk:



    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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